Gastrointestinal motility disorders such as bilious vomiting syndrome are becoming a well recognized phenomenon in companion animals.

The treatment involves an accurate diagnosis and management of underlying disease conditions. Often, control of the underlying disease alone does not fully resolve the motility disorder and dietary and medical intervention become necessary.

Diet is key and should be chosen based on the knowledge that liquids tend to empty from the stomach faster than solids and carbohydrates pass faster than proteins and fat. Diets that are warmed and low in acidity should be fed frequently in small amounts to enhance transit. If motility disorders do not respond to diet alone, often therapy becomes critical.

Apparently drugs such as Tegaserod and Prucalopride appear to have positive effects on canine colonic motility, the latter particularly on the stimulation of gastric emptying. It has been documented that colon disorders also respond to ranitidine, nizatidine and possibly misoprostol.

• Female Blue?
• Female Fawn?
• Black and Red
• males and females?

Hi Tammy,

Tests that must be done before a dog is bred are:

• von Willebrand's Disease (vWD)
• Hip X-rays (OFA)
• T3/T4 TSH (Thyroid)

Tests that should be done before a dog is bred are:

• CERF (eyes)

Additional tests that could also be done are:

• Elbows (OFA)
• DNA Analysis
• Congenital Cardiac Registry

Additionally a Brucellosis test can and should be done on both the dog and the bitch prior to breeding.

The reason a dog cannot or should not be bred before he is two years of age is largely for him to be old enough to have the hip x-rays done and the results on the tests back prior to breeding. OFA will not give a number or a grade to a dog until it is twenty-four months of age.

*** *** ***

A: from Bev Longuil

NOTE: About every 10 days or so I feed one whole chicken (cut into the various parts, of course) and he downs that in no time flat!! 

*** *** ***

A: from Chris

I have 2 Dobermans at the present time. One is 4 1/2 years old and the other is 18 months old. They have both been on a BARF diet since they have come to live with me. I started with my last Doberman, who died from CAH 1 year ago this past Memorial Day. I switched when she was diagnosed and she lived 2 1/2 years after the biopsy.  I couldn't imagine having to feed them dog food again.  It seems to me now, that it's like saying "Eat at McDonald's they put vitamins in their food".

If you go to www.yahoogroups.com  you can join a list called K9Nutrition. Lew Olson , the woman who owns the list, has a PhD in Natural Nutrition.

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A: from Janice Myers

I have fed nothing but a Natural, Raw, Un-Processed diet to my dogs and have done so for many, many years. I have also given free seminars on diet and holistic  care to kennel clubs. I do the article called "In Search Of Health And Longevity" for the Doberman Pinscher Annual and the article has been in the last two books. I have done interviews with Dog Fancy , etc. I do not feed Kibble to my dogs but also do not feed a meal of just bones. I feed meat, veggies, fruits and grains. I do not over vaccinate either and use holistic care when needed. In the 2000 issue of "In Search of Health And Longevity" "I attribute the health of my dogs not only to genetics, environment and the use of alternative medicine but the type of food they eat."  I think that when a 10 year old can sire a litter , that speaks for the health of the dog.

*** *** ***

A: from Patricia Connolly

I feed my dogs the raw diet and they do fantastic. I don't just throw them a raw chicken leg. I buy the meat from a place close to me that was originally a turkey farm. They now get the meat in from where ever.  They get the whole carcass ,cut it up and supply it to top area restaurants and hospital facilities and also to the public. I buy the meat ,chicken, beef with organ meats, lamb, turkey all with ground bone & veggies. I can also get emu, buffalo, rabbit,& salmon. I alternate adding in the am with tablespoons of cottage cheese, yoghurt, soft boiled egg with shell mashed in food, sardines or mackerel. At night I ground up an apple in each dogs food. They get one Vitamin E & C pet tab and 5 cc EFA-Z oil (essential fatty acids and minerals, etc)

Harly gets pumpkin when I am trying to get her weight down. There are no calories but it fills her up if that is possible. The company is Oma's distributed by Miller foods. all natural no preservatives.

Harly's labor and delivery was so much easier this time and she is only 3-4 lbs over her show weight. She is running around playing with Bailey like a kid. Last time she whelped I could not get her weight off. She blew her coat this time but it is coming in nice and dark.

I also give them the raw marrow & knuckle bones to chew on. They love them and their teeth are nice and white

*** *** ***

This FAQ is NOT a bible!

The BARF diet, like life, has many different successful routes. I have tried to detail some of the basic questions that you may have which will hopefully get you onto the BARF track.

People have different ideas about BARF and my suggestion if you become confused, is NOT to go back to commercial foods, but start thinking about what is best for your dog (or cat).
 
Start with the basics - raw chicken bones - carcasses, wings, necks. For the majority of BARF'ers - that is the base of the majority of their dogs meals. However, if chicken is not available readily, use what is available locally - raw meaty - lamb, beef, venison, duck, rabbit, kangaroo, pig, raw whole fish. You get the picture.
 
Please note: Dogs do not have the digestive system to cope with grains. Grains are one of the biggest sources of allergies in dogs. Grains make up the majority of dog food company food sources. Many people find when they switch to an all natural diet, the allergies their dogs had disappear. This is common.
 
Not only is BARF cheaper to feed than commercial dog foods, but there are enormous savings to be made by not having all those vet visits to fix your dogs' allergies. Are you asking yourself yet, "why hasn't my vet recommended this?" Yes, I would ask that of them too. Unfortunately most vets receive NO education at university on dog diet other than what the commercial dog food company reps tell them! (yes, this is the education they PAY to get - unbelievable. Luckily, some universities are realizing this mistake and are making amends).

What is BARF?
BARF - Bones and Raw Food - it refers to a type of diet fed to dogs (and cats)  which totally excludes all commercial dog foods.
 
Why should I feed a BARF diet?
A BARF diet provides a range of benefits that commercial dog diets can never hope to even closely match.
 
These benefits include:
 
1. no doggy odor
2. naturally cleans teeth - no need for toothbrushes, de-scaling jobs, or gum disease
3. the time it takes for a dog to chew a raw meaty bones give their stomach adequate time to get the acids moving
4. much less stools produced - and they are firm, and turn chalky after a couple of days
5. decreased or non-existent vet bills (your dogs are healthier!)
6. less cost for dog food - commercial dog foods are ludicrously expensive
7. mirrors what a dog would be getting in the wild - and certainly even the modern day dog has a digestive tract exactly the same as a wolf
8. puppies develop at a more appropriate rate - and quick growth spurts are avoided. A GOOD breeder will want to stop fast growth in any pup
9. the ripping and chewing involved in eating raw meaty bones develops the jaw, neck, and shoulder muscles of the dog. Commercial dog foods will never assist in this important muscle development.

What people have reported:
People who have switched their dogs to BARF from commercial dog foods have found the following:

* dogs who were previously un-energetic, and sluggish become completely new dogs once the BARF feeding begins
* allergies their dogs previously had on commercial foods, disappear once they start with BARF
* arthritis has significantly reduced or disappeared in some dogs switched to BARF
* better weight control
* no more doggy odor!
* their dogs are living longer on BARF than what their other dogs previously had survived on commercial dog foods
* that their bitches managed their pregnancies better
* better weight and survival figures in puppies

Why is commercial dog food not good for my dog?
There are a range of problems with commercial dog foods. I will provide some links below, but in summary:

1. a dog's food should never be cooked. It should be fed in a raw natural state like nature intended. Cooking a dog's food ruins most of the nutritional value.
2. dogs should have access to raw meaty bones. These clean their teeth, work and develop their neck and jaw muscles, and the chewing action prepares their stomach for the incoming food mass. Chewing bones also slows down the eating process considerably, making it far harder for a dog to over eat.
3. dog foods have as their main ingredient cereals - the main ingredient your dog should be eating is raw meaty bones. And it is these very cereals that cause a range of problems such as allergies.
4. commercial dog foods are laden with preservatives, colors (dyes), and salt. They have additives to make the food taste better so that the dogs will overeat.
5. the vast majority of commercial dog foods have far too much carbohydrates in them. High levels of carbohydrates are linked to over-eating, diabetes, weight gain, and numerous other problems. Dogs should eat a diet with only a small amount of carbs.

Well then, why do so many people still feed their dogs commercial dog foods? Yes, it confuses me too! However, commercial dog food companies have got the advertising part down amazingly well. They have entered the market at every point. With some companies, breeders and vets get major discounts and kick-backs for selling their product. They sponsor dog shows, they advertise  in dog magazines, they get high profile people (including vets) to talk about their product.
 
 And most importantly, their advertising campaigns are slick, and tend to make people feel guilty if they feed any other way.
 
And people are suckers for good advertising.
Let me make this very clear to you, I make no money from recommending BARF. As a breeder of dogs I could make a small fortune by letting my dogs be in dog food commercials, and by selling on commercial dog foods.

I only recommend BARF because I want your dogs to be getting the diet that will make them the healthiest that they can possibly be.
 
But how will I know how much to feed my dog?
You feed your dog based on their energy requirements. It will differ for how much work your dog does, and what their metabolism is like.
 
As a rough guide, my adult male boxer (neutered) will eat one chicken carcass a day as the base of his meal, and then some other bits and pieces. The same goes for my Portuguese Water Dogs.

My toy poodle will have three chicken necks a day (or more if he's been a bit active) as the base for his meal.

Look at your dogs regularly - if they are looking a bit porky, then cut down on the fat in their diet. If they look a bit thin, then, an extra half a chicken carcass in the diet for a few days may be the solution.

It's not hard to do, and when you get into a routine, it's darn easy. Trust me!
 
But aren't chicken bones dangerous?!!!
This is one of the biggest myths of all time! Raw chicken bones are fantastic for your dog. They are soft enough so that they bend easily, and break well for the dog to digest.
 
On the other hand, cooked chicken bones can be a problem, and I recommend that you DON'T feed COOKED chicken bones.

So could a raw chicken bone kill a dog? Well I guess that anything is possible. Certainly scientifically you can't prove a negative argument. However what we do know is that dogs have died from inhaling kibble the wrong way and choking and suffocating to death.

Feeding your dog is about management of risk. No matter which path you decide to take there is always risk. There is always someone who will criticize your decision. However you, and only you can decide what is best for your dogs. Weigh up all the benefits and risks. Do your own analysis. Do your research. Do what will have the greatest overall benefit for your dog.
 
My dog tends to inhale food!???
This is common with some dogs who have been raised on commercial food who don't actually ever learn to chew.

You need to be careful with all dogs regardless of what they eat during their meal times. I've heard of dogs choking and dying on kibble, and dogs choking on raw meaty bones. - Just like I have heard of humans who have choked and died on a small piece of sausage or cheese.

You should supervise all meal times.
 
If a dog is scarfing down their food, I feed them by hand, in an isolated environment, until they learn how to chew. Chewing is critical for a dog. And literally some dogs need to figure it out as adults how to do it. Sometimes I will hold one end of the chicken wing and not let them swallow it until they have chewed it a bit. Puppies that I have brought up feeding raw meaty bones from an early age never seem to have these sort of issues. But you never can tell.
 
Some dogs will try and inhale even large meaty bones, so you really need to work with these guys carefully. They should eventually work it out.

Be also careful of the greedy guts who thinks s/he will be starving unless food is consumed in great quantities immediately. Most dogs will learn eventually, but others, well, it may take a long time.

So in summary, monitor meal times, and be sure to watch out for the greedy guts - and manage them carefully.
 
But what about bacteria on raw chicken?
So many good questions!
 
Ok, there is bacteria everywhere. Dogs have an amazing immunity system specifically designed to eat all manner of bacteria. And a healthy BARF fed dog manages those bacteria without a problem.

E-coli, salmonella, etc are found on raw chicken, but those nasties are also found in your fridge, in your sink, on your floor, in your backyard, in your car, on the footpath, down at the park, and perhaps in your bed! Interestingly, the only cases I have heard of dogs dying from e-coli or salmonella, were dogs fed commercial dog foods.

The most important thing is to wash your hands thoroughly after feeding your dogs, and even after cutting up meat for your own meals. Our digestive systems are not quite as robust as our dogs, so we must protect ourselves.
 
I use a spray bottle containing white vinegar which I spray about when I need some disinfecting.
 
I have been feeding BARF for several years, and have yet to have a problem with bacterial infections with my dogs. They are so darn healthy, they are never at the vets! Well, except for when I got them micro-chipped.
 
But my vet doesn't think that BARF is any good Then your vet needs some serious re-educating!
 
Keep in mind that vets are told very little about dog diet at university. In fact, in some universities, reps from the dog food companies, come and do presentations on dog diet, as part of the curriculum. Many vets get their education on dog diet by dog food reps.
 
And many vets make a lot of money by retailing dog foods.
 
If you have a vet that doesn't want to be re-educated, or will not discuss options, then that is a very sad state of affairs. Here's hoping you can find a better vet.
 
Given this age of the internet, there is absolutely no excuse for vets not to be educated on all feeding options. And there are plenty of vets on the internet who would gladly converse with other vets about BARF. You found this page, why can't they?!!

What do you feed your dogs, Jane?

Great question! These are the things my dogs eat:

I have actually changed the diet of a bitch I obtained, who was pregnant, to BARF when she was pregnant. I was certainly not worried about any cross over issues. For her, the potential damage of commercial foods to her and her puppies was my main concern. I couldn't get her onto BARF quick enough!

Mind you, she did eat one heck of a lot! So for pregnant and nursing bitches you will find that they need more food to cope with the demands of the little guys! And sometimes, a pregnant bitch will not want to eat a lot. You let your bitch be the judge. She knows her needs.
 
Can I feed puppies on BARF?
You most certainly can. And the good news is that unlike the commercial dog foods who recommend a confusing range of foods for different age groups, BARF fed dogs are fed the same regardless of age.

Of course, you won't want to feed that little puppy huge marrow bones! So, use common sense in your feeding.

How do I learn more?

There are several good books you can purchase:

• Give Your Dog a Bone - Dr Ian Billinghurst

• Grow Your Pups with Bone - Dr Ian Billinghurst

• "The Ultimate Diet :Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats". by Kymythy Schultze

(no grains, so dairy is chief difference) 

Your 4 to 5 month old puppy may very well be too old to crop but if it has been done you will most likely have to commit yourself to do a lot of taping. 

Where do you live? Maybe we can refer you to a ear cropping specialist close to where you live. This person can at least see your puppy and further direct you for the best thing to do for your puppy.

I think that you need professional advice on this question.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Puppies are normally cropped at 7 to 10 weeks of age.  It's much easier to get the ears to stand as they are not so heavy and long at that age.  It's possible to crop ears at the age your puppy is but I'd recommend a short crop  as it will require lots of taping if the ears are ever to stand.

If this is a non-show pup, I'd leave them as they are.  I don't know of any health problems that would occur if the dog is kept clean.  A great many dogs have uncropped ears and do fine.  All of the European dogs are uncropped.  You might rethink this operation as it is very hard on a dog of
that age.

The normal gestation periods for a Doberman is 63 days. Have you done all the necessary health testing and are you aware that there are an awful loot of Dobermans in Rescue in the States already? Please don't add to this problem just because you girl is in great shape or your cousin wants a puppy.

I would like to ask where do you live as I feel that you need to be referred to a specialist or to the University of Guelph (a vet school in Ontario, Canada) or the University of Saskatchewan (a teaching hospital in Saskatchewan), depending on where you are located.

*** *** ***

A: from Lorna O'Connor

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Since I don't know the breeding on you dog it's possible that the pup has inherited this.  However, you didn't mention if the third eyelid was red or inflamed which would possibly indicate an allergy. 

I take it she's not on any medication that might contain an antihistamine or tranquilizer.  These certainly make the third eyelid come up covering part of the eye.

She may just have this as a fault.  Many years ago, and possibly it may still occur, dogs of many breeds had noticeable third eyelids that had to be surgically removed.  AKC put a ban on that consequently if it's done now, you don't hear about it.

If she's fine otherwise, I'd not worry as to her health.  As to showing her, and not seeing her for myself, I'd try and see if the Judge is bothered by it. As a judge myself I might ignore it if it isn't too serious.  There is nothing in the AKC standard about it, but that doesn't mean a judge won't find fault with it. Try it and see what happens, LOL.

*** *** ***

A: from Dr. Darcy Rae, DVM, Kelowna, BC, Canada

Sorry, Judy, but I'm not much help here.  If these guys have already taken her to the vets at the critical care group, they have done the best they can for that area. 

The only other suggestion I would make would be to take the dog to a Vet Teaching Hospital to get the full "team-of-experts" approach (e.g.-Washington State at Pullman or University of Saskatchewan in Saskatoon).

The following may be some helpful links:

• http://www.vetinfo.com/dencyclopedia/depancrea.html
• http://www.drpetra.com/Dogs/Pancreatitis%20in%20Dogs.htm
• http://www.listservice.net/wellpet/disease/canine-pancreatitis.htm
• http://www.schnauzerspace.com/wwwboard/newbie_messages/203.shtml
• http://www.maderapet.com/Library/oct2001a.html
• http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/veterinary_info/3980
• http://www.pethealthcare.net/html/body_canine_pancreatitis.html
• http://www.purebredlabs.com/canine_pancreatitis.htm
• http://www.majordomo.net/wellpet/disease/canine-pancreatitis.htm
• http://www.weir.net/~lglass/canine-hyperlipidemia.htm (you'll need to scroll down a ways on this page)
• http://www.vin.com/PublicCE/SAIM502-0901/PubCE2_M01492.htm
• http://www.purelypets.com/articles/pancreatitis.htm
• http://www.vetcentric.com/reference/encycEntry.cfm?ENTRY=23&COLLECTION=EncycIllness
• http://www.spearsmacleod.com/links/p/pancreat/

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Contact Dr. Davida Roof, DVM.  Davida lives in Columbia S.C. and can give you that information.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Q: from Paul
Date:             24 Jul 2002

Comments: Ear Cropping

I bought a Dobe pup from someone and he has not been cropped. He is 13 weeks old. Does it hurt them much to have it done and is it too late?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

It certainly does hurt them just as any surgery hurts any being. I'm sorry but cropping is not a matter to be taken lightly. You can still crop your puppy if you do it soon but please be sure to have an accomplished, reputable veterinarian crop him and train you how to do the aftercare of the ears properly. If you are going to put him through the surgery at least make certain that you are dedicated enough to guarantee that his ears end up beautiful.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

While 13 weeks is later than we now do our pups, a good Vet can do a nice crop at that age.  If it's not a show pup I'd suggest a shorter crop as it will be easier to get the ears to stand.

Make sure the Vet is VERY experienced in cropping Dobermans.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA

You can get it done but you had better hurry. It looks like that you live in Tennessee. You could try Dr. Patty Edwards, DVM, in the Atlanta, Georgia area. Her email address is dobevet@aol.com.

Q: from Irene
Date:             24 Jul 2002

Comments: Dog panties

Are there any dog panties made for a Doberman's shape for when they are in heat?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Contact Mrs. Linda Marquis at chiens@prodigy.net.  Linda makes wonderful Doberman Panties that "fit."  I bought a couple last year at the National and they were great.

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA

Bob and Gloria Letsinger at 408-736-5252 sell this item plus a lot of other items or you could send a note to Bob Letsinger at Sunnyhl@aol.com and ask if he has a website with pictures.  Bob is "the man" in N. California for Doberman show leads and other supplies.

I am sure that there are others but I only know of Bob and Gloria. They will ship and you can order over the phone. They will be able to help you with the measuring and what have you.

Q: from Julianne Haugen
Date:             22 Jul 2002

Comments: Lazy ear

I have a 12 month male with show cut ear cropping.  His ears have done reasonably well standing but periodically his left ear will tend to droop.  I immediately re-tape both ears and leave for 2-3 days.  His female littermate has had no problems and has not needed re-taping since she was 6 months.  Am I fighting a loosing battle with my male or will this get better as he matures?  Neither are on any supplements per our vet's advice as we lost our last girl to CVI.  I have noticed his ear tends to droop when he is hot, sleepy, or very excited.  Thanks for any advice.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

It wouldn't hurt to keep taping them as needed but if he uses them most of the time and he is over 6 months I'd leave them alone.  Most will stand when they mature if they are standing except for a few times like you mention.

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA

Try taping for a while longer but leave him up in the tapes for longer than 2 or 3 days. When you remove the tape, re-tape the ears (both of them) the moment that they fall or are not perfect.

There are things that a vet can do to get them standing but you need a vet that is really experienced with ear cropping. Are you from Northern California? If you are in that area we could refer you to a couple of experienced vets or breeders for help.

Q: from Julianne Haugen
Date:             18 Jul 2002

Comments: Other

Could someone please explain what the abbreviation OFEL27 on my dog's sire's papers stand for?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA

I looked at one of my dogs' papers and that number is for an OFA elbow x-ray. His sire has that number and an OFA hip number. OFEL stands for Orthopedic Foundation Elbow.

Q: from OP Davis
Date:             18 Jul 2002

Comments: Other

I am considering buying a male who is a vWD carrier. Will I be able to breed him in the future? Should I buy him?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA

Please read the article on VWD that can be found at several sites including http://www.equinoxca.com/explainvwd.html for an in-depth explanation about vWD in the Doberman. This dog can be bred to a clear or even a carrier, but he must meet a lot of other criteria in order to to be acceptable for breeding as well. Some of this can't/won't be determined until later on: i.e.: other health testing, temperament and his conformation.

So much should be taken into consideration when making a the decision to breed a given Doberman.

I have an American Champion, vWD Clear Doberman that may not ever be bred unless the "right" female is found for him.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

A vWD Carrier is not the end of the world.  If the dog is a top quality animal (show quality), and someone who has a Clear bitch (preferably ) would breed to him you wouldn't get any pups that were other than Clear or Carrier... you would get no Affecteds.  A Carrier to Carrier would result in some of each.  I definitely would not breed a Carrier to an Affected though.  Remember, there are other things as or even more important to consider when breeding.

Q: from Diane Evanosky
Date:             18 Jul 2002

Comments: Other

I would like more info on the vWd DNA test: Where is it available? What is involved?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

You can go to www.vetgen.com/ for information regarding this query.

Q: from Nikki
Date:             18 Jul 2002

Comments: Doberman Pinschers

Any Dobes for sale?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Sorry but we do not sell animals through this site.

Q: from Anita Bleakey

Date:             18 Jul 2002

Comments: Grading the Doberman Puppy

How do you grade a Doberman? What do I look for?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA & Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Please go to the article Standing In Motion that is on this site. If you feel you need more after that we are here. You should also go and read our Breed Standard and Judy Doniere's article about the standard. There are many excellent pages on this site that will help you with this issue.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I think you'd be better off getting help from an experienced show breeder/handler in your area.  You have to be familiar with not only the standard of the Doberman but how it relates in terms of an 8 wk. old puppy. Pups go through many stages.  You need to know the background of the sire and dam to know what things may or may not change.

Things that you cannot tell are size and teeth as they aren't finished development before the pup is from 5 1/2 mo. to 12 months of age.

Angulation doesn't change but you have to know what you are looking at to tell correctly. 

Eye color changes slightly.

For someone new, it would not be possible to grade a litter successfully without the assistance of a mentor I'm afraid.

Q: from Michael
Date:             12 Jul 2002

Comments: ear flopping  

I have an 8 month old Doberman whose ears were cropped at about 12 weeks. His ears were standing perfectly until about a week ago when the right ear began to flop. This happens mostly at home or in the yard. Sometimes he gets it to stand, but if he barks or jumps up the ear will usually flop. Is this normal?  Will he out grow this? Please help.  Thank you.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

If the ears have been standing normally until now it very well may be a temporary thing.  I wouldn't do anything if the ears stand most of the time. If he walks around all day and one is hanging down then I'd take 2" tape and hold the ear straight up and tape it up.  No plugs.  Leave it on for about 4 days.  If they stand after that, fine, if not then re-tape.

Q: from Emily

Date:             15 Jul 2002

Comments: Ear tips falling in

Hi!,
I have a 5 month old female Dobe whose ear tips fall in a few day's after being out of tapes. The ears don't fall to the outside but the tips seem to want to touch. What have I done wrong?!. Thanks so much!

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

From what I'm reading it sounds like the ears touch each other when she is alert?  If this is so, I'm thinking she has "pockets" in the base of her ears where it joins the forehead.  If so, you have to do something right now or they'll stay for good.

What I've used lately is taking a packing "popcorn" (the ones that are about one inch in length ... possibly a little longer ... and reverse tape it like you would a plug for ears.  Pull the ear straight up, and look on the outside of the ear for the dimple which is about 1/2 inch from the head on the uncropped side.  Stick the "popcorn" inside the dimple (on inside of ear) until the dimple is forced out and put a strip of tape around the ear holding the taped popcorn in place.  Leave this up for 5 days, take down and see how ears look.  If they go back to the same, repeat procedure as many times as it takes to straighten out ear.  Do not tape up much higher than the popcorn.  Ears should look straight.  Don't use brace between ears.  If done correctly, they should stand straight.

Q: from Rhonda Lawrence

Date:             13 Jul 2002

Comments: Breeding The Doberman

I am a practiced breeder of Dachshunds and I am breeding my Dobe for the first time. How big should the whelping box be? How big will the babies be when born? How much external heat (they are bigger than the dachsies) is needed, if any? What was the "Battaglia" type of socialization referred to in one of your answers to another person's question. (I usually carry the babies around in a bib pocket, but these guys are going to be too big.) You mentioned that you feed littermates separately towards the end. How do you do that, do you not leave food out and available all the time?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA and Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Please refer to our many great articles on Breeding and raising puppies by noted Doberman breeders http://www.dpca-breedered.com/ as well as Carmen Battaglia's article on Puppy Stimulation, http://www.dpca-breedered.com/battneurostimulation.htm in the Breeders Education site you wrote to us and about the whelping box http://www.dpca-breedered.com/whelpingbox.htm.

The babies can range from 9 ounces to 22 ounces at birth and more depending on the sire and dam of course. Like all puppies they have no body temperature of their own for the first few weeks so must be kept warm.

Littermates are fed separately simply because some of the smaller pups would not get the right amount of food if fed together and others would get too much. As you said, they are not dachsies. <S>.

Hopefully Marj Brooks who is a Doberman and A Dachsund breeder will be able to offer you some advice when she returns from the shows.

If your dog is just being stubborn and aggressive towards other dogs, I'd say it's adolescence and he needs good formal Obedience training.  HOWEVER, if he's suddenly turning on you and growling or snapping and this is a sudden change, he might have Rage Syndrome.  This is a form of epilepsy or a possible brain tumor causing it.  The dog can be loving and trustworthy one minute and can instantly change to a dog you don't know.  They don't seem to know what they are doing.  Many times the dog with be sleeping and suddenly wake up and growl or attack someone or something.  Within several minutes they seem to be very remorseful and not understand what's going on.  If this is the case, they don't get over it and must be humanely put down.  If it's the former, I'd see a good obedience trainer for an evaluation and start classes immediately.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

You can go to http://home.hawaii.rr.com/wolfepack/foodcht3.html  to see what brands are the best. I myself prefer to feed Eagle Pack. The food you feed is almost a matter of personal preference however.
               

Q: from Denise Buskirk
Date:             04 Jun 2002

Comments: house breaking a three year old male

I was wondering if there is a product you can buy to spray on walls and furniture to keep a male dog from wetting on them. I have just rescued a male Doberman who is 3 years old and he a wonderful dog. He just has a bad habit of peeing on everything. Is there something I can do to stop this nasty habit? He was kept in a cage outside all the time  and was never allowed in the house and I want him in the house with us. Can someone help?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I would go back to the way you house break a puppy.  Crate him, let him out several times a day.  WATCH him like a hawk.  If you see him smelling something yell at him and say a firm NO, then let him out.  He's really marking his territory but since he's been there some time, it's now become a habit.

You will have to clean the spots with something that doesn't allow him to smell where he's gone before.  Use nothing with ammonia in it as that is what he will be smelling from his own urinating. 

You can break this habit but I'd not let him out of your sight for several weeks.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Gloria Lettsinger of Sunnyhill Design makes a belt for males to wear in the house that you could purchase until you get him trained. Her phone number is: 408-736-5252. Good luck.

Q: from Elaine Hopkins
Date:             04 Jun 2002

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

I know this was discussed recently, but I have a friend who says that breeding a clear (vWD) to an affected will only produce all carriers. I know I read somewhere that it's 50% Carrier, 25% clear and 25% affected. She still disagrees. Please give me a web site where I can give her the information. Thanks.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Here you go http://www.vetgen.com/interp.html
               

Q: From Denise Buskirk
Date:             27 May 2002

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

Can you breed father and daughter and still get papers?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Yes, if the father and the daughter are registered with the AKC. I am assuming that your are talking about the American Kennel Club. I don't know about the other registries.

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A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Yes you can with the Canadian Kennel Club as well.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Yes you can breed father and daughter.  My question is why?  You must know the genetic background of the dogs in question so you don't double up on faults.  Very few top breeders do this until they have been breeding for generations and know what is lurking in those recessive genes.  My advice...don't.

AKC will register any litters when both parents are registered.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

You may do whatever you personally like but I would have to suggest that you go for a medium length crop. They will still stand easily and match and balance the dog better. I personally don't care for the super long crop either. I crop mine to a medium length.

Q: From Lisa Daniels
Date:             26 May 2002

Comments: Locating a puppy  for stud use (long)

I posted a question a while back about breeding to produce only Fawns for the purpose of raising dogs to be trained as service dogs. As per the wonderful advice I was given I have done a lot of research and study into color genetics and Dilution Alopecia. I have learned a great deal more than I ever expected ... mainly that there is a simple microscopic exam that can be done to the hair follicles to determine if the pup in question will have alopecia problems or is a carrier or not.

My female has been checked by this method and is negative for the alopecia traits. I had her conformation evaluated by a retired show judge who said she was a very good example of the breed, especially being heavy boned and the proper angle of her shoulders. He indicated that these were two critical areas of conformation that he feels are being overlooked more and more lately. I personally have no desire to show her but it is good to know that she would do well with the right handler. I am however working with her in Obedience and will begin training service behaviors later. I have been involved in many different facets of dog training all my life but this is my first attempt at Obedience competition. I have high expectations of her and she is meeting them all just fine so far.

As you may recall, the reason behind my original question about breeding to produce fawns was because of my plans for training assistance Dobermans. I am ready to start looking for a fawn male that would be a good stud for my female later on, (and later a couple more fawn females). I want to get him as a pup and raise and train him myself. I plan to compete in Obedience with him, but not conformation, but he should be a possible contender physically. The temperament needed for service dogs is much softer than what is sought after for show dogs so I would not be taking a dog out of the ring. I am looking for a good show breeder who may have or expects to have a fawn male in the next year or so that may meet my needs. I have looked thru the breeder registry, but since I am looking specifically for a fawn, I have wasted a lot of effort and phone bills. Could someone please help to spread the word about the type of dog I am looking for. I know many show breeders breed away from the dilutes, but there are some out there who adore them as much as the blacks. I just do not know how to find them. Please help me or give me guidance of who to contact.

There is a very large rehabilitation / residential center for physically challenged person in my town. I have spoken with the director about the need for service dogs for some of her clients. She is very excited and encouraging about my desire to help these individuals by providing service dogs. She too is very fond of the Doberman and agrees with my desire to use fawns.

Any assistance in this search is greatly appreciated.

A: From Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

You could try Pat Blenkey of Wrath-Liberator Dobes in Canada, Ann Ramsbottom-White of Cambria Dobes, Monica Grainger-Blue of Cresthill Dobes in the States and another that comes to mind is Betty Clark of Ravenswood Kennels in the States.
               

Q: From Frank Wetenkamp
Date:             26 May 2002

Comments: Doberman Health

We love our female Doberman, but she suffers from incontinence and our vet hasn't found a cure. We would hate to have to part with her but our carpets are constantly being stained. What can we do?

A: From Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Comments: Doberman Health

The problem with your bitch can be one of two things - first behavior or second, a health issue.  Each has it's own method for correction or determent.  If you would like to email me directly we can discuss the possibilities.  I am not a vet but I would be curious is certain tests were run by your vet and what types of medications he/she has prescribed.

Yes I would be interested in hearing your thoughts. She is skittish and fears loud noises, oddly shaped objects, etc., so it may be that her incontinence is behavioral, however it seems to happen mostly when she is resting or sleeping.

We don't keep her in a crate, although we have thought that at least that way we could contain the problem. But we really love sitting with her while watching TV or reading a book. Obviously the problem is that she relaxes and when she gets up there is often (not always) a spot left behind. How can I contact you?

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

There are several medications most Vet's know of that take care of incontinent bitches.  One of the best was recently removed from the market but many Vets still have supplies.  It's name is Phenopropanolemine (sp). It is very good and doesn't seem to cause any ill effects when used as
directed.  Ask another Vet if he/she might still have any.  It is very inexpensive.

Another thing to use is baby diapers.  Not too charming to look at, but does keep the carpets clean.

Comments: Doberman Health

My Doberman is constantly biting on his fifth nail (we call it wolfsclaw).  What could be the reason for this behavior. It's a one year old male. Greetings from Belgium

A: From Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Comments: Doberman Health

I would recommend that you have the dew claw examined by a veterinarian as there may be an infection going on with it.  If it checks out okay then it could be a habit thing like sucking a blanket. 

You could also try wrapping it with vet wrap for a while and see if he leaves it alone and forgets about it.

I am not sure but you may be able to have it removed even though he's older...that would also be something you should check with a veterinarian about.
 

Q: from T. Fujiu
Date:             10 May 2002

Comments: Other

Thank you very much for your prompt reply. Now I know not to give up. I live in Tokyo, Japan and there are relatively few veterinarians who have experience in ear cropping. I will try the tampax method. My Dobe's ears are rather soft and thin. I think he has a show dog cut, somewhat longer than normally pets are given. I have no intention of competing so it is unfortunate that we must continue taping. He doesn't fancy this and warmer, humid weather makes it worse.

A: Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Good for you. The fact that he isn't competing makes absolutely no difference. If he went through the rigors of a crop and of taping for that long you owe it to him not to give up. Thinner ear leather makes it a tad more difficult to get the ears up but trust me, chances are they will go up with time....you're reaching the end of this arduous process. Hang in there!

Where exactly does his ear break when it does? At the base, at the middle, the tip, where?

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

There is an article on the web site for taping ears. You just have to keep at it and trust me, I know it is a drag. You will be happy in the end. There are lots of Doberman fanciers in Japan. I wonder what they do. They must know of a vet. I have an article that I got off of this web page. It is called Older Puppies...Longer ears, advanced taping by Carol Petruzzo. I found it on ears12.htm If you can't get it, I can try to get our webmaster to send it to you. I don't know how, but we will figure it out. Judy has a good one on the beginning, young puppy taping too, complete with pictures. I gave the articles out with my last litter.

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A: from T.Fujiu
Thank you for the support. I will keep trying. He is a beautiful dog and deserves to look his best. I have seen the site on older puppy ear taping and have tried it recently. It doesn't seem to bother him as much.

I also own a male German shepherd and a female Doberman, both are adult dogs. Sometimes they rough play and I think that may mess up the taping. The female Dobe came to me as an adult and her ears were already cropped so this is my first experience going through the ordeal. It's a learning experience.

A: from Judy Bohnert & Marj Brooks

I have been pondering a concern that I have had for days now and could not live with myself if anything bad were to happen. I just want to you be fully aware that may very well be sitting on a potential powder keg. Dobermans are dog fighters and in fact insist on being the king -- I sincerely feel that your two males will likely fight when they are older, therefore resulting in some pretty serious damage to one or the other or both. Are you willing to risk this?

Q: from T.Fujiu
Date:             08 May 2002

Comments: Other

My Doberman is an 8 month old male. He had his ears cropped when he was about 4 months. The ears are a relatively long-cut and we have been taping religiously, however the ears are very soft and refuse to stand properly. In normal situations, his ear is flopping outwards and he looks like he is going to take flight. What should be done. Please help.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Please go to our pages on ear taping.  I think this will be all you need to get those ears standing.  Many pups are in the midst of teething and ears tend to fall at this time.  Don't give up or they'll never stand.  See our ear taping instructions and keep at it.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Just keep taping the ears and try to leave them in tapes for as long as possible (try for 10 days to 2 weeks, checking all of the time for yukky smells). When you take them down, the moment that they fall, tape them again and leave them up for as long as you can. It is best that you tape them both, even though the one may be standing.

Are they really long? Taping long ears can be quite a lengthy process. Be patient and if this doesn't work after a year of age there are other methods to try. Where do you live?

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A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Please do as Judy and Marj recommended. I have seen people taping until the dog is well over a year of age. Is his ear leather quite thick? Thin?  Are they really long? Is there anyone in your area that can take a quick look at the dog and ascertain if you are doing anything wrong? Someone such as a cropped breed breeder, preferably a Doberman, Great Dane or Boxer breeder...

Again, please got to ear taping instructions and read all twelve pages on ear taping your puppy and DO NOT give up!

What you most likely have in your boy is a "dimple" which is causing one ear to look shorter. There are several methods to use. I like taking one of the "popcorn" from a packing box...reverse taping it so the sticky side of the tape is on the outside. Hold the ear straight up and where the indentation is near the base of the ear on the inside nearest the head, have someone hold the plug in place while you use a strip of one inch tape and wrap around the ear just like you would if you posted the ear. Do not go up the whole ear, but just slightly above and below the popcorn. Leave this on for at least 5 days. If dimple is still there, make it a bigger plug. If the ear should fall down, re-tape but don't use the plug.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Comments: Ear Taping

It's hard to tell the reason for the difference in length from your post.  Do both ears look the same except for length?  The difference could be the ear crop or it could be because one ear has a well in it.  If there is a well (one ear folds at the top of the head and isn't held straight).  There is an educational article on this web site about ear taping you may want to read.  5 months is not too late to correct an ear taping problem. If it's a well, you'll need really stretch that ear when you tape it.

You may want to seek out a Doberman expert in your area to have them look at the puppy and give you their advice.

Q:  from Diana Baker
Date:             26 Apr 2002

I've been reading many of the Q&A's listed and am confused about ear-cropping.  Our breeder does not have the ears cropped before the pups go "home". In fact, the recommended vet to perform this will not crop before 10-11 weeks, but your answers suggest to crop 6-8 weeks. BTW, our Dobe is a pet only, so her ears are cropped fairly short and required no taping/posting. They stood naturally and are absolutely beautiful!

A:  from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Comments: Ear Cropping Age

The puppy's ears should be done prior to placement in the new home if for no other reason than to prevent the new owner from having to deal with the blood, sutures, healing time, etc. plus *cropping stress* can have a bad effect on both puppy and buyer.  

The younger the puppy is, within reason of course, the easier a time they have with the pain and the anesthesia -- recovery and healing is so much quicker too.

Yes they must be *very* short to stand that quickly. You were lucky but then again, the shorter the crop, the easier it is to get the ears up and the longer the crop is, the longer it takes.

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Comments: Attacked by other Dog

You would do well to get your Dobe into a group class with an knowledgeable trainer who can work with you and her and get her comfortable around other dogs. She's young so she can learn but I wouldn't blame her for having to regain her trust around other dogs and a group class is a great way to do that! Also, you may find some of the articles at flyingdogpress.com helpful.
 

Q:  from George and Jennifer Hoffman
Date:             25 Apr 2002

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

How do you know when your female is in heat?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Usually the dog experiences a fair bit of swelling in that area and within 3-4 weeks after the initial swelling she will start to bleed. Please have her spayed before she comes in for her own sake.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Good for you! I'm so glad that you found a breeder close by.

The scenario you mentioned above doesn't usually present a problem in terms of inbreeding unless the dams are closely related. It sounds to me that what likely has been done with this particular sire and dam is a line breeding, not an inbreeding.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

I myself really don't have an answer for you except to just keep working at it. He will get it eventually. I also am wondering if he has some medical problem? What I always tell people is that puppies always have to go out right after they eat, after they play, and after they wake up.

I know It is difficult when the dog goes to the bathroom as soon as it come into the house. Maybe you should switch routines. You should go out with him when you know he has to go, wait for him to go, praise him, bring him back into the house and play with him for a few a minutes and/or pet him. He may get wise to this eventually too and if he does, you will have to put him out and watch from inside the house until he goes and then bring him in and praise him.

It is difficult to answer a question such as this because there just may be more to the whole story. The dog may not getting something that he needs and is rebelling for some reason??? I do think that it is like an  ear taping question we received earlier in that you just need to keep doing what they are doing for another month or maybe longer until he gets the idea. Patience is a plus with puppies...

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I'd go back to basic training.  Crate him and take him out just like a very young puppy.  Start with crating him at night and immediately take him out in a.m. and then after his breakfast.  Crate him anytime during the day when you are not with him constantly.

You didn't mention if it was urinating or defecating.  Neutering won't do much for a 5 mo. old pup for urinating as he is too young to "mark" but he's either smelling his past mistakes and thinking this is where he should go or he is just being lazy and going inside because he doesn't know how to let you know he has to go outside.

If he is defecating, make sure he does it when he is outside.  If he doesn't go outside when you take him, a baby suppository might work.  We use paper matches at shows but on a young pup, the sulphur will irritate his anus.

Another thing, try and get him excited when you take him outside.  Say  "want to go out???" in an excited manner so he runs to the door.  This way he'll learn to run to the door when he has to go.
 

Q: from Kayleen Rickle
Date:             21 Apr 2002

Comments: Breeding The Doberman

I am forever grateful for your website. My utmost respect to your vigorous vitality to the upholding of Doberman Pinscher's quality of breed.  I unfortunately have been terribly distraught. I have purchased a puppy from the genetic genes of an albino. NOW...WHAT IS THERE FOR ME TO DO? I LOVE MY DOG...AND THIS MAKES ME VERY CONFUSED, HURT and LOST...I would sincerely, and most graciously ACCEPT...ALL and ANY HELP...Anxiously Awaiting Your Replies,

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

You can love your dog Kayleen...its not his fault and he still is a Doberman after all. We're not against albinos per se, just the people that deliberately produce them especially for profit and the inherent physical and genetic baggage that these dogs come with. Did you not check the pedigree out on the puppy *before* purchasing it? There you go, there is a good lesson for you in this after all. Do your research beforehand.
               

Q: from Rose
Date:             20 Apr 2002

Comments: Locating A Dobe

Hi, I am interested in getting a Dobe. I'm quite daunted by the task of locating a good breeder, finding the right dog, etc. I am an avid outdoors person. I enjoy hiking, biking, walking, running, and I would like a dog that I could take with me on these adventures. I don't want an overly aggressive dog, nor do I want a passive dog. Also, I don't think it would be wise for me to take on a puppy, since I work and may be moving soon. I don't know who to look for or at... I would appreciate any help. And if I forgot anything I should have asked... :) Many thanks!

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I would put a strip of one inch tape at the base of the ear and leave it on for abut 4 to 5 days.  Make sure when you wrap the ear you hold the ear slightly towards the center of the head and tape close to the base.  You don't need to post.  It's most likely due to teething so this "lazy" ear just needs a little help. Take down and if it goes back down again, re-tape.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Just keep taping them until they stand. The teething process slows down the ear standing process in order to put more energy into the teething. It they are standing for any period of time they will stand permanently eventually. Because of the length maybe, it will take a little longer. Tape them and leave them up in tapes for as long as possible and take down and tape them again the minute both of them or even one of them falls. Always tape them both though.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

I would say that maybe that you should move first and get your ducks in a row and then get your puppy or young adult. Be patient too. A Doberman would love to do all of the things that you like to do. They are a breed that wants to be with you and in your life. When you are ready, refer to the DPCA breeders referral link at http://www.DPCA.org.

You need to interview the breeder with your questions. Try to see the parents or at least the dam and the puppies. Read some of the articles that are on this breeders-education site. I personally think that both parents should be tested for all of the inherent health problems that plague the
Doberman, so that should also be a question of the breeder. You should be able to find a Doberman with the temperament traits that you want, because that is what we should be breeding for.

Q: from Tracy Paine
Date: 09 Apr 2002

Comments: Doberman Health

Our Doberman has been acting very strange lately. He almost seems as if he is losing his mind. We have been told by other 'Doberman' people that some Dobermans develop a condition in which their skull cavity is not large enough for the brain, and causes pressure on the brain. Is this true? Where can I find information about this? Thank you.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Hi Tracy...NO that is definitely *not* true...it is simply a myth or an old wives tale as it were. What seems to be the problem with your dog?

Q: from Kris Cisna

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

That's great. As for the barking, it will certainly start when she gets a bit older...enjoy her not barking while you can <S>

Q: from Kris Cisna
Date: 04 Apr 2002

Comments: - When to start Obedience

Hello again. My name is Kris...you have given good advice about our little girlie`s ears...my girlfriend and I are thinking about getting her and her lab sister into Obedience training...I have read that about 5 months is great to start...but our local Petsmart says 8 weeks is good...they say 5 months is a little too late...my goal with the training isn't for me or how I feel....I just want her to be happy and respected and also to hopefully start flyball later on...any help would be greatly loved. Thanks again.

A: by Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

You're both wrong <G> Not 8 weeks because of vaccination immunity -- IMO 5 months is a little too late. Anytime after 3 months is great just so long as the first course is only puppy kindergarten or basic manners, whatever they may call it. It MUST be made to be *fun* for the puppy. There's time enough later in life for serious obedience.

Q: from Peggy Watson
Date: 04 Apr 2002

Comments:

I am a member of the DPC of Indiana and we would like to make a donation to a research project involving health related issues of our wonderful Dobermans. So far I have been unable to find a way to contact the people involved in this. Can anyone give me names and/or contacts into this?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA

There is an organization called The Doberman Pinscher Foundation of America, Inc. that you can donate and etc. to. For information contact:

I went to the DPCA site to find an address for someone to talk to with the DPCA and couldn't find that. The AKC has a health foundation that you can donate to and I think (I am not sure) that you can ask for it to go towards Dobermans.

There is also the Morris Foundation as well as others.

The Doberman Foundation, however is breed specific. They used to have fund raiser dinners at the DPCA national specialty every year up until the year 2000 at San Diego. I hope that this helps. I don't have my Pipeline yet, but I would guess that there is something about this in the latest issue of the Pipeline too.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I'd contact Vic Monteleon who is the DPCA President, Vicscribe@aol.com. He can put you in contact with who would take the donation. Right now our chairs for our Health/Medical Comm. is Dr. Davida Roof, DVM and she can be reached at GnRk9@bellsouth.net and Dr. May Jacobson, who is Chair of the Health Registry for the DPCA. I'm sure either could direct you also.

Q:   from Sue O'Rourke
Date:             02 Apr 2002
 

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Unless you purchased your dogs from show parents, or from a show breeder your chances of having a pup that conforms to the written DPCA Doberman standard are rare. Even pups that have a Champion sire and dam the chances are still small that the dog would turn out to be a good producing Stud.  By producing, I don't mean numbers of puppies, but of top quality.

Did you buy your pup from a show breeder?  If so, then have that breeder look at the pup and tell you the good and bad points.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

There are many articles already on this site. The standard and the explanation of the standard, the health testing, the articles on grading the puppies are a few that come to mind. However, you most likely will not be able to establish whether or not your puppy can add to the breed until it is quite a bit older.

You could have someone in your area evaluate the puppy. If you like, we might be able to give you the names of some competent people in your area to do just that. If the puppy was purchased from a reputable breeder, one who has studied and is breeding to the standard, you should simply be able to ask her.  When a buyer purchases a puppy from me for example, that person would never be leaving my house without that knowledge and would be able to come back to me at any time for more information.
 

Q: from Anne
Date:             01 Apr 2002

Comments:

We have a 11 week old Doberman with unclipped ears. How soon does this have to be done?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

The puppy should be cropped as soon as possible. It is usually best to have the dog cropped before it is three months of age.

Q:  from Jeffrey Kubit
Date:             30 Mar 2002

Comments: Fear/Suspicion Biting

I have a one yr old Doberman who up until  4 months ago was a relaxed, loving dog. I got him at 3 months old and started basic obedience and socialization immediately. Max would greet strangers at the door with a lick. He seemed to genuinely like people. At 6 months old I had Max neutered. His temperament was perfect and I wanted him to stay just as he was. I don't know if that had anything to do with his problem or not. Max has 15-20 people who he genuinely likes but for some reason he has closed a mental door and won't let anyone else into his social circle, worst of all children. No environmental changes have occurred such as a change of house, long hours alone, etc. Max will no longer allow strangers to pet him even if I have talked to them for a while and he sees they are no threat. It got worse a few weeks ago when he bit a small boy for no apparent reason. He licked the boys hand when he put it out but when he turned around he bit him. There was no indication or warning that it was going to happen. Max didn't bark, growl or anything. Max bit him one time and backed off like nothing happened.  I would hate to give up on this dog but I have no possible answers to his social regression. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A: from Bonnie Wittrock, Wittrock Dobermans, USA

I will be happy to answer this but would like a few days to do it right. There are lots of issues that could be happening. The fact the the dog bit when the kid turned to walk away says the dog channelled to prey drive and acted on it. Prey is an offensive drive. A dog will bite in prey when he doesn't have maturity or courage. It could be the dog doesn't have the courage at this age to bite when worried being faced and held in a bit of defence drive. There are so many angles this could take but the main thing I can be sure of is it will come down to 2 or 3 reasons.

1. Socialization is lacking - (this is the most likely reason as people think they socialize because the dogs sees people through a fence or from the car.
2. It could be age related - it is time for him to take more authority within the pack and he doesn't have the guidance he needs to know how to act
3. or he just has a loose screw and there is no rational reason.

I will think on this a day or so and try to get it down on paper in a way that is understandable.

Q: from Michele Avery
Date:             26 Mar 2002

Comments:

My husband and I are more interested in acquiring a Doberman for competitive obedience trials. What should we look for in a puppy, the parents of the puppy and the breeder?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Please go to buying.htm and take a look at the Buyers Guide on Purchasing a Doberman...its all there for you to read. Good luck to you.

*** *** ***

A:  from Bonnie Wittrock, Wittrock Dobermans, USA

What I look for in an obedience prospect:

1. Pedigree showing dogs that have attained high levels of training and held up.

2. Strong nerves

3. Excellent food motivation

4. Eye contact to me

5. Willingness to follow and be with me.

6. Correct conformation so they won't break down under the many jumps and bumps they take in training.

7. Excellent prey drive.

8. Medium to high pain tolerance. Not that I will inflict pain but if a dog crashes the jump or falls off of an agility obstacle it needs to be able to handle it if it should be hurt.

9. Social

10. Energetic.  I tend toward the terrorists in the litter. Not too dominant but definitely a strong personality

After the puppy comes home all can be lost if the new owner doesn't socialize constantly to make the puppy comfortable in every situation. That means the puppy goes EVERYWHERE with you. I mean EVERYWHERE whether it is convenient or not.

Q: from Ania Freymann
Date:             27 Mar 2002

Comments:

How do I locate bitches available for my stud in Austin, Texas?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

First of all, don't worry about "studding" your boy.  The world is so full of puppies that there are not enough homes as it is so please don't add to the over population.

At any rate, the owner of a bitch always selects the male.  Remember, if your boy is a wonderful pet, but not of top show quality, most ethical breeders neuter them and just love them to pieces and leave the breeding to the professionals who don't mind spending several thousand dollars raising a litter.  They don't mind sitting up all night with sick puppies and don't mind cleaning tons of puppy poop and shredding stacks of paper for an immaculate whelping box.

They don't mind selling their pet quality puppies out of top champions with a Limited Registration and a Spay/Neuter agreement.  They don't mind raising the puppies until AFTER ear crops and aftercare until they are healed before they place them.

These are just a few things to think about and ask potential bitch owners, if they are willing to go through all this, who might want to use your boy.

I'd re-think using him and just love him.

Q: from Kris Cisna
Date:             23 Mar 2002

Comments:

I have an 11 week old lovely little girl...she is my first Dobe...my vet wants to leave her ears untaped for 3-4 days between taping. Now a lot of places I have read say nothing of this nature. I love her very much and I'm just looking for all the info I can. Thanks.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

Please go to ears1.htm (follow through all the pages) and please do NOT listen to your vet on this. If you need any other assistance please don't hesitate to write to us.

Q: from Tom Neuner
Date:             23 Mar 2002

Comments:

I have a beautiful red bitch, well bred, with color dilution alopecia what can I do to help with the problem?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

Q: from Dee
Date: 17 Mar 2002

Comments: Breeding

Has anyone had a reluctant stud dog? If so what methods would you suggest that would help him perform. The male is 21 months and the bitch was ready, blood tested. He just wanted to play and was not interested in doing the actual deed. HELP!!!

Please go to Dr Hutchinson's article on this site (See Reproduction Seminar). Judging by what you say, I would think that the bitch isn't ready yet. Sometimes the tests, blood test included, are not as accurate as the vet thinks. Dr Hutchinson gets into this a little in his article.

What day is your bitch on? Wanting to play is part of the breeding process. You should let him play with the bitch as it is part of the foreplay that dogs do.

*** *** ***

A: from Dee
Date: 20 Mar 2002

I have a 21mth old male ,a bitch came to him 2 wks ago who had been blood tested by the vet and he said to mate her in the next three days as she was ovulating. We tried everything but he would not mount her at all. He didn't even seem sexually excited but was very playful. I am worried as he is a top winning dog and someone wants to use him next month, I don't want them to make a wasted journey. Any suggestions as to how I can resolve this worrying problem. Medication? Diet? My vet said see what he is like next time which is really no help.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Relax.  Twice daily bring the two inside or outside and let them play.  Don't go near either.  Disregard the Vet's advice as "most" males know when the bitch is ready and will not make any attempts to breed.  I've had bitches not ready until the 29 & 31st. days and still had big litters.  Let nature take it's course.  Just sit by holding a long lead so you can strap them together.  Keep collars on each.  Have a couple shorter leads draped around your neck so you can get to them once they tie and hold them.  Don't force the issue.

Q: from Lisa Daniels
Date: 16 Mar 2002

Comments: Breeding

I have recently become involved in training service dogs. Much of the recent research I am finding indicates that the best service dogs are carefully selectively bred and raised by the training organization as opposed to those found from shelters or donated by other breeders. Although I am many years from being able to do so, I would like to someday establish my own training / breeding organization for service dogs and of course my breed of choice is the Doberman.

I recently got my first Fawn pup, and she is beautiful. I have also noticed a very different response by strangers to my Fawn Dobie than to my Black Dobie when I have them out in public. That initial *fear* of a Dobie is not there, or at least at a much lower level.

As far as service dogs go, I know Dobies are wonderful but are looked at a bit differently by those not familiar with the breed. I have yet to see a Fawn Dobie service dog, but my observations lead me to believe that Fawn (and maybe even Red) Dobies would be more easily accepted by unknowing people in this role. With this in mind I have been learning more about color inheritance in Dobies. My question: is it recommended to breed dilutes to dilutes? What types of problems, if any, have been identified in such breedings?

I have read it only once and I do not remember where but it has stuck in my mind that dilutes should only be bred to blacks in order to keep the rust marking more defined and clear. Is there any other reason to not breed a dilute to a dilute?

With all other factors of conformation and temperament being equal, and only this one concern about the rust markings, then is it safe to conclude that a breeding program for service dogs that bred only fawns to fawns would still produce as many satisfactory dogs compared to one using blacks?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans
Fawns and very often the reds as well are far more easily accepted because John Q. Public by and large doesn't even consider them Dobermans upon first sight of one.

I myself would think that alopecia and/or folliculitis would be the greatest concern that you might be faced with since most dilutes at some point in their lives develop alopecia. However, these problems do not occur in all dilute dogs and occur even less often in fawns than in blues. Alopecia is almost always a cosmetic problem...the dogs lose hair as they age. usually in a patterned fashion. Rarely is it more severe such as being combined with folliculitis and other skin involvements.

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
 
I have been thinking about your question and your comments and I understand what you are saying about the colors and the acceptance of the breed because of the color. The blacks definitely have a sinister look and are more threatening because of their color. You will get the same response that you talk about in fawns with a red Doberman.

As to breeding for fawns only or blues, I cannot give you any concrete answer except that it is my belief that it is not good plan. Many blues and fawns have a coat problem (in which they lose their hair) called alopecia.  

If I were you I would try to read and learn more about the dilute colors of Dobermans before you take on this endeavor.

Q: from Cheryl
Date:   13 Mar 2002

Comments: Other

How much will I pay (including coast to coast air-if necessary) for a TOP QUALITY 10-12 week pup, from a WELL KNOWN breeder with Mom and Dad both CD/CH, all meds and ears cropped? THANKS

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

If you meet all the breeders' qualifications the prices would range from $1000 to $2500.00.  Air fare varies but it would be over $100.00 one way.  I would suggest your flying or driving to pick up your puppy.  If you flew in and the pup was not much older than 10 weeks  you might be able to fit him into a Sherpa bag to carry in flight under the seat with you. 

Q: from Sharon Shamion
Date: 11 Mar 2002

Comments: Doberman Health

I adopted a 4 year old red male 5 weeks ago.  He obviously has been treated harshly as he drops to the ground if I so much as raise my voice.  I have noticed about 5 times in the last 5 weeks that he has short periods when his head shakes uncontrollably.  Just his head, not his neck.  It stops after about 30 seconds or so.  Could this be a symptom of Wobbler's?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

Almost anything could be suspected but CVI actually has other more noticeable signs than simply the head shaking. Just so you know, there is a similar problem found mainly in English bulldogs but also found in the Doberman, Boxer and Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. The head tremors, which appear suddenly, last several minutes and then go away and appear to be an intermittent problem. The vets aren't sure whether this is a focal seizure disorder or if it is caused from ear infections or some other problem. It apparently doesn't respond very well to traditional seizure control medications and lab work including X-rays, blood work and even MRI or CT examination is usually normal. In most instances treatment is not considered to be necessary. 

My advice to you is to take your boy to a vet to be safe because most of us offering advice on this forum aren't vets. You could also join Cyberdobes or Doberworld and broach the subject there.

I personally think it might be a good idea to rule out low blood sugar as a potential cause of this problem, or even better, to run a blood chemistry panel to rule focal seizures out along with liver disease and other potential systemic problems.

Q:  from Angel Gallegos
Date: 09 Mar 2002

Comments: Breeding The Doberman

My puppy is 9 months old. She is going through her first seasonal flow, how many days will this last and how often will this occur?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

Heat cycles usually last approximately 21 days occur every 6 months or so (sometimes more and sometimes less).

You should look into spaying your girl once this heat is over as eventually they can run the risk of developing cancer.

Q: from Burum Han
Date:  09 Mar 2002

Comments: Other

We wish to own an older trained Doberman, checked out House of Hoytt and researched their Dobermans. Any reviews are mixed at best, some very happy, some very unhappy. But they seem to offer what I am looking for, an older healthy Doberman with basic obedience skills and socialization. Am I looking at the wrong breeder?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

You certainly could be. Why not check out Rescue in your area? They have lots of Dobermans requiring a good forever home. Many of them are very well bred too...

Q: from Janie G.
Date: 04 Mar 2002

Comments: Breeding The Doberman

I have a 2 yr. old male, and I would like to stud him.  How do I get started, what is the customary procedure, fees, contract, etc? He's blue, and should produce all 4 colors the breeder told us.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

First of all, don't worry about "studding" your boy.  The world is so full of puppies that there are not enough homes as it is so please don't add to the over population.

At any rate, the owner of a bitch always selects the male.  Remember, if your boy is a wonderful pet, but not of top show quality, most ethical breeders neuter them and just love them to pieces and leave the breeding to the professionals who don't mind spending several thousand dollars raising a litter.  They don't mind sitting up all night with sick puppies and don't mind cleaning tons of puppy poop and shredding stacks of paper for an immaculate whelping box.

They don't mind selling their pet quality puppies out of top champions with a Limited Registration and a Spay/Neuter agreement.  They don't mind raising the puppies until AFTER ear crops and aftercare until they are healed before they place them.

These are just a few things to think about and ask potential bitch owners, if they are willing to go through all this, who might want to use your blue boy.

I'd re-think using him and just love him.

Q: from George
Date:  01 Mar 2002

Comments: Other

I am contemplating buying a male Doberman, age 10 weeks. The single most  important factor is whether I will be putting my three year, old very spoiled, female Min Pin at risk.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I'd really be more concerned with the risk for your Dobe puppy!  Min Pins can be very dominant and a Dobe will usually take a back seat to a small dog. No, they're not wimps, just smart...LOL

Seriously, I'd not be worried.  The older one always rules the roost and will put the pup in place if it gets out of line.  Just remember to make over the "spoiled one" and not just scold her for maybe snapping at the pup. The pup will learn in time what is allowed and what is not.

**** *** ***

A: from Michelle Santana, Foxfire Dobermans, USA

While I do think it is possible to have a large dog cohabitate with a small dog, I also think it takes extreme supervision and depends completely on the temperaments of the dogs involved. Getting a Doberman as a pup is a wise idea when introducing it to a min pin size adult. That way the min pin will be able to 'intimidate' the pup more easily, and establish a pack order, hopefully with the min pin as leader. (at least in the beginning of the dogs' cohabitation).

You may have to help the min pin establish this leadership from also running interference with the exuberant pup from disciplining the pup for rough behavior towards the min pin. I have often heard of large dogs giving leadership to smaller dogs but I think it is best to establish this relationship with the larger dog as a pup and the smaller dog as an adult.

Remember supervision is a must. If you can't be with both dogs to referee their interactions then don't leave them alone together!

Q: from Mary Eisenmenger
Date: 27 Feb 2002

Comments: Ear Cropping

At what age should their ears be cropped?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

IMO, between six to eight weeks of age is ideal.

Q: from Al Casimiro
Date: 27 Feb 2002

Comments: Taping Ears

I have a 4 month old male Doberman in great health.  I've been posting his ears now for a month - they seem to stand ok except one seems to stand inward when he gets excited. Is this normal for now or am I posting wrong? Can someone please help or do I have nothing to worry about? 

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

What you have in  that ear is a *sink* or a *pocket*. What you will need to do is the next time you tape the ears stretch that ear up and out from the dog's head, pack some cotton between the stick and the ear right where the pocket (near the base I assume) or sink is located (in order to push it outward). Tape firmly but not too firmly and leave in for a week. If it is still there when you take the ears back down, the next time you will have to reverse tape the natural fold of the ear for a couple of days. Do not quit as someday you will notice that the pocketed ear is considerably shorter than the other one.

Q:  from Rosamond Chapman
Date:  23 Feb 2002

Comments: Handling

Where can I find a handler with an apprenticeship program?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Most Professional Handlers employ young people who want to learn the trade. These employees must do tons of "dirty work" before they every take any of
their charges into the ring. They must do daily chores such as feeding, cleaning, grooming, exercising, etc. at the Handlers home or on the road.

The Handlers can teach them the finer points of handling when and if they think they are ready.  You are usually up from 5:00 a.m. and not in bed before
11:00 p.m.

The pay is not that great but the learning experience is wonderful. I'd start with contacting any handler you think is your ideal.  Ask them
everything.  This isn't a glamorous job as one might think.  It's lots of hard work that is never done but if you have what it takes and are willing
to devote several years of your time, you may someday become a good handler yourself.

*** *** ***

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

The first thing that I would do if I was looking for a handler that had an apprenticeship program is find out when some shows are in my area.  I would then go to the shows and depending on the breed you want to focus on -- go to the group rings and ask around for handlers that may take on apprentices.

You could also network with the Junior Handlers as they pretty much know about those handlers that are taking on new apprentices as well.

If you go to the show and go to the groups at the end of the day, ask for all breed handlers first because those are probably the ones you'd like to link up with.  The reason is that you would be able to learn a lot about different breeds, grooming, etc. Good Luck!

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Contact The AKC and the Professional Handlers Association. You  can probably get addresses from the AKC. The AKC has a new program concerning professional handlers. If you want to work with a Doberman handler specifically, go to dog show and ask the one that impresses you the most that you would like to learn from. You can also write to whatever handler that you would like to be your mentor.

Q:  from Marty Rogers
Date:  22 Feb 2002

Comments: Other

Hi, A red Doberman has two lighter spots on his back, both on the right side, one on the shoulder and the other about mid-way down the back. Not extremely noticeable but they are there. Has anyone come across this before? Could it be a puppy thing? He eats Eagle dog food and was on enzymes and daily greens. He is now off the supplements and they seem to be getting darker again; they are about the size of a silver dollar. Thanks.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Might be because of a bite that the hair came in lighter or possibly he is shedding out and will get darker in that area.  Otherwise, I have no idea.  How big are the lighter spots?

Q: from Sharon Shamion
Date:  22 Feb 2002

Comments: Other

I'm trying to find the book, "The World of the Doberman Pinscher" from Nicholas.  The website book stores that I have contacted say it is out of print or out of Stock.  Any ideas where I can locate a copy?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

There is a great book store that travels the California dog show circuit that is called 3-M books that has this book and others on the Doberman, including the older books. (Gruenig, Schmidt, the Complete Doberman and others). They are not grossly expensive either but I don't have a way to get hold of them at the moment.

I am going to a show this week end and will pick up a card and get the information for you. After you get the book you can the buy an index to all of the pictures in the book from the Doberman Quarterly magazine.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

The standard says that female Dobermans should stand 24" to 26" at the withers with the ideal height at 251/2 ", males 26" to 28" with 27-1/2 being ideal. With that in mind, anything over 28" is too tall. A Doberman is supposed to be a medium-sized, heavy boned dog. The legs should be no longer than the body is deep. They are supposed to be square. They are supposed to quick and agile. They shouldn't shuffle around say like the Great Dane or other large breeds do.

Yes, I do hear of tall dogs like your Amadeus from time to time. From the measurements that you list he sounds like he is very leggy. I would guess that he is way out of proportion and should have more body to go with his long legs or the other way around. Since you are already at the DPCA Breeders Education site, my best advice to you is:

1. find the articles on this site that are written on the Breed Standard

2. find the standard, also located within this site and read and study it

3. read the article explaining the standard from Judy Doniere

The Dobermans that I have seen that are that much over the standard appear to me as though they are not of true Doberman type. They looked like a caricature (cartoon) of a Doberman. Our job as breeders is to breed Dobermans that are as close to the Breed Standard as possible, so as not see too many  Dobermans that are too tall. I would think (even though I can't see him) that your Amadeus should weigh more for his height. A standard-sized adult male with the proper bone and substance weighs in the high 80's.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

This is a Myth.  There are NO Dobermans or any other breed that are Warlock type or size. Ch. Borong the Warlock was a top show dog in the 60's.  He was 28" square and never produced any huge offspring.

The way this myth came about was a lady in Houston, Texas had a Warlock son.
She sold a dog to someone who in turn bred this dog to a bunch of pet quality bitches and kept those that were the biggest and advertised them as Warlock Dobermans.  This soon spread around that these tall dogs were Warlock breeding and thus the myth of any large Doberman was a Warlock Doberman came about.

It was a name made up to sell his less than quality dogs to unsuspecting people who heard the name Warlock and associated it with the great Borong the Warlock to justify their existence.

Don't be taken in.  It's just a myth.

*** *** ***

A:  from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

I think that the "Warlock" term that you were referring to is just a marketing term. It is sometimes applied to an oversized Doberman. It also could come from a famous Doberman named Ch. Borong The Warlock. Also in the 60's there was a person who used the name "Warlock" on the dogs that he bred. Those are some possibilities for you to consider.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello, This is a hard one. Normally the owner of the female contacts the owner of the male. However, before you breed your dog you should do a number of things. You should have him evaluated from a Doberman expert for his conformation qualities. If it is determined that he can be bred then you MUST have him health tested for all of the inherent Doberman health problems. These tests cost approximately $500.00 once you have done them all.

Breeding Dobermans should be tested for vWD which is a DNA test. They should have a thyroid panel done. They should have at least their hip x-rayed and sent to OFA for reading. I also x-ray the neck and the elbows and that takes two x-rays for each totalling 4 x-rays. He should have the CERF test for his eyes and also his heart must be tested, both with a Holter monitor and sonogram. He should also have his temperament evaluated. If he passes all of this criteria, there are several ways to advertise him. Also if he passes all of this you should show him and put him out there to show a lot of Doberman fanciers. I didn't say it was going to be easy.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

No, there is no supplement to make ears stand.  The ears are cartilage and not bone so calcium or vitamins won't hurt but they won't make a difference either. Go to our pages on posting ears.  This might help you. Also continue taping.  Don't give up.

If you've done the posting and it hasn't worked then I'd suggest using 2 inch tape; I like the waterproof type as it's stiffer.  Tape each ear at the base and then put a tape brace from one ear to the other.  There's no need to use posts if they haven't worked from now.  Leave them up for 4-5 days, take down, air out and if no sores, back up again. If the ears don't stand for more than an hour or not at all, you may not get them up.  If they do stand for a while there's still hope.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Helen, there is no way the tracking system works out of the Country.  This is why I was not in favor of just doing the Z listing.  It was bound to happen that the Albinos would be in other counties and offspring brought back here. We are not giving up with AKC yet on our quest for Limited Registration. Stay tuned.....

*** *** ***

A: from Ian Alexander, Walamara, AU

Tracking Albinos takes different forms in different countries. In Australia for instance, it is impossible to register an albino as our registration requirements state that to be registered a dog "must be of a color recognized in the breed standard". I would suggest that you get in contact with the controlling body in the country concerned and ask them the question.

Q: from Melissa
Date:  17 Jan 2002

Comments: Health

What makes for the best dog food for a Doberman and when should you switch to adult?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

The best dog food for a Doberman is a good quality kibble. The brand of food that should be purchased is pretty much personal preference and/or whatever works best for your dog. If you recently purchased your dog the best bet is to feed whatever the breeder or previous owner was feeding.

I feed my bitches puppy food when they're in whelp and I wean the pups on puppy food but once they are eating well I switch the pups to adult food for the rest of their lives. In my opinion, back when the brands of foods were of little variety, it was necessary to add the extra calcium and phosphorus to a puppy's diet. Now that there are so many quality brands of food it really isn't necessary and often even detrimental to the puppy's health.

Q: from Darrin Pfeiffer

Date: 12 Jan 2002
             

Comments: Other

How are Dobermans with children?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA            

Darrin, Dobermans are normally wonderful with well behaved children.  If your kids are under 7 yrs. I'd always supervise them together.  Kids can be very rough with dogs and the dog has only two defences ... run away or snap if being tormented.
           
If getting any puppy (regardless of breed) you must remember that puppy teeth are extremely sharp and can hurt like the dickens.  They love gnawing on arms and legs so I'd supervise interaction with them and children.  Divert a chewing puppy with his OWN toys.  Other than that, if you trained your children to behave with puppies and dogs, you train the pup the same way. 

Q: from Fareiza
            Date: 10 Jan 2002
           
Comments: Other

If a Doberman (4 months old) gets his ears cropped but was not taped, after 2 weeks have passed, can the dog's ears still be trained to stand up?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

If the ears have been cropped and healed they must be taped until they stand.  This may take as little as a couple of weeks to many months.  Cropping a 4 mo. old is going to take more taping than cropping one at 7 wks. would but if you are persistent you can get them to stand.
           
Please go to our ear taping site at ears1.htm for various ear taping methods to use.
           
Remember to leave tape on no longer than 5 days at a time.  Ears must be taken down to air out, and to check for sores.  Then the ears should again be taped.

I bought a Doberman pup around 8 months back from a breeder. I had the pup checked from my vet and was told that the pup was absolutely normal. the pup was having a normal growth till 6 months old when he measured around 22 inches at the withers. from then on his growth seems to have stopped for no apparent reason. I have even consulted my vet regarding the matter but he couldn't help. he has tried with IV vitamin D injections but it didn't help. I already own a 2 year old medium sized Doberman. When I compared its health records with that of the pup I found out that the pup was well over an inch taller than the dog when he was a pup around 6 month age. I just want to know the growth chart of a Doberman pup and its maturity. Can anything be done now if possible to improve its height?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

I don't think there is anything you can give to a dog that will make them grow.  Their size and proportion is predetermined in their genes.  Some dogs will hit a slow down period and then take off again.  Most dogs continue to grow until full maturity.  I have had dogs gain height even after the age of 12 months up to 2 years.  I have had other dogs that reach their full growth at 9 months of age.  Their really isn't anything you can do about a dogs height. I hope this answers your question.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I have used the PennHip method and like it.  However, OFA does not recognize this method and will not include PennHip in it's database nor will AKC put it on the Registration papers. Until PennHip can get better recognition I will continue to use the OFA method for checking hips.

Comments: Other

What does Co-ownership mean?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Co-ownership has a specific definition for a specific case.  Each situation has a different meaning - you need to resolve that definition with the individual that you are entering in to the agreement with.  You should have a specific contract that identifies what items are agreed upon in the arrangement.

In my opinion, a co-ownership is a shared arrangement where both parties have equal benefits.  But whatever the arrangement is, it should be agreed upon from both parties.

 A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Since I'm guessing at the pedigrees I'd say you must, first of all, look into the HEALTH issues of your pedigrees.  Cardio may be a problem in the line.  You will have to research your pedigrees more thoroughly and find out as much as you can.

Make sure you have all the health testing done on any bitches and dogs that you intend to use.  I would not jump into breeding quickly.  It seems to me that you may not be as much prepared as you should be.  I'd go back to the breeders of your dogs and ask their advice before doing anything as they would know some of the problems that it would be best to stay clear of or some of the attributes you may want to incorporate into a breeding program.  Remember, you will be responsible in breeding the best you can, conformation, temperament and health wise. 

Are your dogs finished?  If not, why not?  Were they sold to you as show prospects?  There are too many unknowns to your question for me to be more specific.

Comments: Health

On my dogs pedigree after the OFA is a number 24g, 26g, 24e, 40g. Is there any meaning to these numbers. Second, after some is CERF42 - what does this stand for?

A:  from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

The 24 stands for the age in months that the dog was OFA'd. If there is a G in the equation, it stands for good, an E stands for excellent and an F stands for fair. Anything else is not a pass.

As for the CERF, the 42 also stands for the age of the dog in months - this test should be done yearly.

Hi all. Happy holidays. I recently adopted a 6yr old female from a rescue and am wondering how long I should walk with her in -10(C) 14(F) degree temperature. She has a fleece lined vest but shivers from the first step outside. She is not at all reluctant to walk and seems prepared to go for as long as I am, but I'm afraid she'll get too cold. I've been keeping walks to about 20 minutes. Can she go for longer? Any response is appreciated.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I'd keep her walks to 20 minutes in that weather.  Dobermans do not have much undercoat if any.  You may not know how much outside weather she might have been accustomed to in the past. Just as we get cold feet, dogs of short hair do also.  If she is shivering I'd try a warm coat to cover her body, not just her chest. You don't mention her age.  Young dogs retain heat more than older ones.  You also might have her Thyroid checked to see if she may have a problem there if she seems unable to adjust to the cold. Most importantly...use common sense.

Q: from Pam Eggert
Date: 27 Dec 2001
           
Comments: Breeding

Please explain line breeding. My instinct is to think this is A no-no. I'm trying to decide whether to breed my bitch when she is old enough. Need advice.

A: from Marjorie Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Line breeding; The mating together of distantly related animals - i.e. mating cousins or dogs that share one or two common ancestors. Another definition is; any mating of relatives other than those prescribed for inbreeding.

Inbreeding; The mating together close relatives - i.e. breeding brother to sister or parent to offspring.

Line breeding is okay but you have to study the line which should be what you do with any breeding. It will take lots of studying of the cousins and their parents, etc. You can go to your bitch's breeder for information, talk to other established breeders, study breed magazines and photos for the conformation part of the breeding equation. You will have to ask questions of people in the know for temperament and health.

If you have more questions you can come back to this site or come back to me personally. There are articles on breeding on this web site as well. I hope this is a start in helping you.

Q:   Adam Lawson
Date: 26 Dec 2001
           
Comments: Other

Where to buy a Albino Doberman?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Please go to to historyofalbinos.html and read about the albino in order to learn more about this anomaly.

Comments: Breeding

When grading 8-week-old puppies, are there any clues as to which ones may grow too tall or be too short on leg?  Is "short on leg" apparent as a puppy?
           
Thank you for your time.

A: from Marjorie Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Yes there are clues. Look for overall balance in the puppy both standing and moving around. A Doberman is supposed to be what I call 50-50 (body in proportion to leg length) when it grows up, so I look for that in an 8 week old puppy. From the top of the shoulder blade (withers) to the bottom of the brisket (chest) should be equal the leg from the elbow to the bottom of the foot. If the leg length is greater than the body is deep, than the puppy could be leggy and if the body is deeper than the leg length it will likely be short legged. I look at the balance of 50-50. Refer to the article, Standing in Motion that is on this breeders site for info and more reading material on structure and grading puppies. 

Comments: Breeding

When is the best opportunity to breed?  How time consuming is the breeding process?
           
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

You did not mention whether you were talking about breeding a dog or a bitch.  If a dog, I don't like to breed them until they are over 12 months of age and a bitch over 2 years.  Both should be fully tested for hips, thyroid, heart, etc.  Both should be good representatives of the breed for breeding is for the betterment of the breed.
           
Now for when is the best time - I prefer having a litter during the summer when they can go outside more in the warm weather but I have improvised during more adverse seasons. I devote a great deal of time to the litter from birth until they go home it's almost an around the clock venture. I am constantly handling and playing with them from birth on.
           
If you truly socialize them the best you can from the whelping box then it requires a great deal of time.  I use a special neurological stimulation process mentioned in the "Battaglia" section of this web site, in the early stages.  Then I migrate to more challenging situations but placing many obstacles in their "large" play area for them to climb on, crawl under, sleep on, play with, etc. Lot's of toys with noise - lot's of noise around "their" area. I invite neighborhood kids to come over to play with them as well. I really think, in order to do it right - it's a full time job.
           
The other concern most people have is the cost - you have to remember, their is the stud fee which averages $1000.00, their is the ear crops which average $250.00 per puppy, there is the cost of food, vaccines, toys, etc.  If the bitch requires a caesarian section, there is the cost of that as well.  It's not a money making venture, but for me it's a rewarding one in seeing the puppies grow up and seeing the pleasure they give their new owners and meeting people who become part of an extended family.

Hope this answers some of your questions.

Comments: Other

 Is it a bad thing not to have their ears cropped? Someone once told me that they go deaf early because of cropping.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Ear cropping does not cause deafness -- many other things can cause it but certainly not ear cropping.  Deafness is caused from both hereditary problems and can even be caused from giving a bitch certain medications during whelp.

Q: from Donna Bell
Date:  11 Dec 2001

Comments: multi-dog household

I have two Jack Russell terriers (4 years old and 2 years old) and a 1 year old Dobe.  My Dobe has been a part of our family since she was 7 weeks old.  She has established herself as the alpha dog.  My jacks run from her when she demands that they leave the room.  My problem is I'm afraid my Dobe will hurt one of the jacks if they don't comply with her wishes.  For example; last night I was lying in bed watching TV with my Dobe sleeping (soundly) next to me.  One of the jacks happened to walk in and my Dobe sprang to the floor and snapped and snarled the jack out of the bedroom and the jack that walked into the room is her best bud whom she plays with constantly. Sheena (the Dobe) has a problem with the other dogs sleeping with me but has no problem sleeping with my daughter during the day with the jacks on the bed too.  What can I do to stop Sheena's behavior?  I love Sheena but I love my Jack Russells' too......  

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Donna, if your bitch is just over a year of age you may be able to correct this "jealousy" your Dobe is experiencing.  You are HER possession and she is telling them in no uncertain terms.  If you haven't tried yet, I'd grab her from the muzzle and look her right in her eyes and say a firm...NO!  As long as she doesn't go after them I'd try that.  If she leaps off the bed after them I wouldn't take chances.

If the above methods fail you can do one of two things. 

1. Give her quiet time with you making sure the J.R's are not able to come in the room
2. or don't let her on your bed.

Then let the J.R's have their time with you when she is not allowed in the room.

If this is a problem with other times during the day she may never like them and they must be alternated so they are not together.

I'm surprised the J.R's don't rule the Dobe.  Usually Terriers are "top dogs" in the household.

A: from Estelle Corr, Kalora Dobermans, USA

Most reputable breeders will crop the puppies ears before they are placed in their new homes generally between the ages of 6-8 weeks. The only time a breeder doesn't crop a puppies ears is if the owner requested the puppy be uncropped or if there was a medical reason preventing the puppy from getting it's ears cropped. After cropping the ears require proper postoperative care. once the ears are healed they will need to be posted( posting is the procedure that supports the ears so the cartilage can harden) in order for them to stand. Posting can take months and in some cases almost a year.

The important thing in answering your question is to make sure you have done all your homework before you bring your new puppy and ask your breeder why hasn't the ear cropping been done prior to your purchase. Generally a reliable/reputable ear cropper is hired from the breeder. Please bear in mind that the purchase of the puppy is the most important step in finding a reputable person.

Q:  Jennifer Z
Date: 29 Nov 2001

Comments: Other

I would like to know if there are any reputable Doberman breeders in the areas of CT, NY, NJ, Penn, Vt, or even New Hampshire?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Absolutely! I can provide you with the following to name just a few:

CT

1. Drew & Pat Connolly Southington, Ct 860-276-9607

NY

1. Kalora Dobermans (Estelle Corr), Farmingville, NY  Ph 631-451-7337

2. Cara Dobermans (Ray Carlisle), Spring Valley, NY  Ph 914-352-2044

NJ

1. Eastwick Dobermans (Sophia Koster, DVM), Clarksburg, NJ Ph 609-259-1955

PA

1. Alisaton Dobermans (Gwen Demilta) Downington, PA  Ph 610-458-0165
2. Ravenswood (Betty Clark) Penns Park, PA  Ph 215-598-0490

Q: from Tiffany
Date: 28 Nov 2001

Comments: Doberman Health

Can anyone provide me with information and home supportive treatment on Von Willebrand's Disease?  A Doberman recently adopted from a local shelter has been diagnosed and his owner is trying to find out as much as possible.  Thanks

A: from Estelle Corr, Kalora Dobermans, USA

There is no supportive treatment for vWD that I am aware of. First I would like to know if the dog has been tested through DNA for vWD. If the answer is yes and he is DNA affected only a very small percentage of DNA affected dogs will ever be clinically affected. (have a bleeding episode). If this dog ever needs any type of surgery I would tell the Vet. to make to sure that they have done a clotting time on the dog prior to the surgery and to have blood on hand in case it was needed.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

On the slipped disc problem - I haven't actually gone through a disc surgery but I will say this - a lot of it deals with what the vet says the prognosis is and the degree of quality of life after the surgery.  I know it's a big commitment on your part as to whether you can deal with the after care.  It's unfortunate but I don't think the prognosis is as good as it is for humans - each case is taken separately - only you can answer the question of whether you can deal with it on your dog.

*** *** ***

A:  from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

It looks like my reply may have come a little late but I have had a slipped disc incident, not with a Doberman but with a Dachshund. It has been labeled as a slipped disc. I have had a Dachshunds wake up in pain and sometimes dragging their rear quarters.

I learned from my first incident in the sixties from my outstanding old time vet, Dr. Les White. We would try to get the swelling down first from giving an anti-inflammatory drug, usually prednisone.  Along with that, we would keep them quiet, confine them to a crate and only let them out to go to the bathroom.  Usually within a day or two they would improve at which time you can give them more out time.  There should be no stairs or jumping or playing, of course. As they get better give them more time out from themselves. Of course, if they don't improve you go back to the veterinarian for more options. 

However, for me, surgery would be my last resort, even for myself.  I would try acupuncture, massage and other remedies first.  I have found, especially with Dachshunds that a lot of vets are a bit over zealous about taking the surgery route.  Again I would try the above ideas first. 

From the way, none of my dogs ever had to have surgery and neither did I after a major back injury ten years ago.  I still do my exercises and do things correctly to not put excess pressure on my spine. 
 

Q: from Elaine Hopkins
Date: 27 Nov 2001

Comments: Doberman Health

Has anyone ever revived a dog successfully with CPR, which went down with CDM? How long did it live after being revived?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

I have witnessed the process of trying to perform CPR on a dog that suffered a severe heart attack from Cardio with no success... However, I did talk to someone who indeed did perform CPR and was able to keep their dog alive after suffering a heart attack... Unfortunately the dog ultimately succumbed to the disease - so I'm not sure there is anything that can save them from the ultimate result caused from the disease.

*** *** ***

I had a six plus year old bitch drop one day out in my back yard. I did CPR on her for quite a while.
I actually started to doubt that she would come around. She came around, was a little groggy for a few minutes, and then went right back to normal. I took her to OSU where she was ultra-sounded and holter monitored. They found her to have early stage DCM and V-Tach. Apparently the V-Tach was what caused the spell. She lived to be about eight and a half.

Q:  from Betty Sadlon
Date:  21 Nov 2001

Comments:  Other

Are there any Doberman Pinscher clubs in the Chicago area or outside of the Chicago area? Also how do you get information on taking the CGC test? No one around here seems to know? We live out side of the Chicago area on the south side. Thanks.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA  

In answer to your question about Doberman Clubs in the Chicago area, the Illini DPC. Inc. is a wonderful club.  Contact either:

Laura Plasketes, Secretary  1103 Newcastle, Westchester, IL Ph: 708-343-9641

or

Jacqui Wendt, Ph: 847-358-5165

Q:  from Lisa Daniels
Date:  08 Nov 2001

Comments:  Ear Cropping

I am looking for a vet in the Owensboro, KY. or Evansville, IN. or Louisville, KY area who is very good at cropping show dog ears. My pups are only 5 weeks old and will not be ready to leave their mother for a couple more weeks but I want to make arrangements now, especially if I need to travel outside my immediate area.

Also, what age is considered optimal for cropping the ears? I have read a lot of contradicting information about what age is best and why.

I have owned several dogs in my life and most of them were Dobermans. This will be my first venture into showing. I am open to any and all advice and recommendations. Our children will be graduating high school in a couple years, so my husband and I are wanting to get ourselves established in a hobby together. Showing and training has always been an interest of ours. Thanks.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada  

Unfortunately I will be unable to help you regarding a good vet that crops in those areas that you specified. Perhaps another breeder will be able to answer that question for you.

As for the optimal age to crop, I personally prefer the age of 6 - 7 weeks. I have found that the puppies tend to rebound from the surgery much quicker and heal that much faster as well.

My advice to you about venturing into showing is to go to a show, watch the breed and then if possible walk around afterwards and introduce yourselves to any handler that is not too busy. In this way you will hopefully find a mentor and learn while you look for the same.

Q:  Melanie Obendorfer
Date:  07 Nov 2001

Comments: Doberman Health

I have a 3 yr old fawn female. She is getting some spots on her belly that look "bleached".  They are not big spots but more are appearing. There is also hair loss on these spots.  Any idea what this could be?  Thanks. 

A:  from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada 

I suppose anything is a possibility such as allergies to your carpets or her bedding or even to food, a possible thyroid condition developing and so on. She may even have alopecia. I would suggest that you have her examined from a qualified veterinarian as soon as possible.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Melanie, It's possible your fawn has been laying in the grass and has insect bites.  Many times they appear as spots sometimes red or white.  If they appear soon after being outside, I'd suspect this.  They are frequently the size of a pencil eraser to the size of a dime.  They are flat and not raised. 

However, I'd have a good Vet take a look to determine if they might be a staph infection or something else.  Fawns and Blues have extremely sensitive skin and any scratch or bite can become infected quickly.  See your Vet before it gets worse.

Q:  from Rene Meachum
Date:  06 Nov 2001

Comments:  Adoption

Family interested in adoption or purchase of puppy or young adult Doberman in Shreveport, Louisiana area. Have previously owned several Dobermans.

A:  from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

The only breeder that I could find in the DPCA Breeder's Directory in that area is Steven Zichichi. His number is 504-888-9403. Let me state that I do not personally know this breeder nor have I ever heard of his kennel name. If you want a qualified recommendation you may wish to consider a breeder in another State close to you or have your new puppy shipped to you from another State.

*** *** ***

A:  from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

If you are looking for a Doberman from the Louisana area, contact the Doberman Club there or Mary-Alice Rousselle at 504-888-9007 or Ann Schwartz at 504-737-0474.  I'm sure you'll find one though these women.  Good luck.

Q:  from H. Susan Holubek
Date:   01 Nov 2001

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

I would really like to hear DPCA' s attitude toward vWD and breeding. Is it OK to breed affected to affected, affected to carrier? Is the breed large enough to handle breeders ignoring vWD in exchange for quality? So much emphasis is placed on health testing that I don't quite comprehend this attitude from breeders. I'm new at this and would really appreciate some answers.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada

The ideal breeding is Clear to Clear so that the resultant puppies will not have the vWD gene. Additionally a breeding is safe if Carrier dogs that are desirable for breeding be bred with Clear dogs in the future, which will produce 50% carrier and 50% clear animals, to further reduce the disease gene frequency. However, some or all of these puppies will be Carriers. These offspring should be tested for this defective gene, and if possible, only the clear animals in this generation should be used.

Carrier to Carrier is a high risk breeding Some puppies are likely to be Carriers and some puppies are likely to be Affected. Even though it is possible that there will be some clear puppies when breeding "Carrier to Carrier", in general, neither this type of breeding pair nor "Carrier to Affected" are recommended for breeding.

I strongly do not recommend breeding Affected to Affected as all the puppies will be genetically Affected and possibly some could even be clinically Affected. In my opinion the Doberman breed as a whole is certainly not large enough to handle breeders ignoring vWD in exchange for quality. This amount of emphasis is placed on health testing because we are trying to better the breed as a whole. An analogy to this conundrum is a three-legged stool that stands for Health, Temperament and Conformation. If one leg is broken or missing, the stool won't stand very well if at all.

While very young should we keep them in the same crate at night or in separate crates?

At what age would be best to start keeping them in separate crates?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA  

I would highly discourage getting two puppies from the same litter or even two puppies the same age.  It's important for your new puppy to bond with you and learn the "rules" of the house without depending on the support of a littermate.  I usually start sleeping my puppies from a litter in separate crates at about 5 weeks of age for this very reason.  They need to become "individuals" and not be dependant on each other.  I feed puppies in a litter separately as well.

You didn't mention if this is your first Doberman puppy or not but I would recommend you start with one and then get another later.

*** *** ***

A:  from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

If you raise two puppies together, they should not sleep in the same crate.  Many breeders keep littermates and often times they become dog oriented which in my opinion is not good and can ruin a good Doberman.
 

Q: from Lisa Daniels
Date:  04 Nov 2001

Comments: Doberman Conformation/Handling

I plan to show my new Fawn Doberman puppy. I have watched many shows and always been interested but just too busy with my job. Now I have a new job and lots more free time to devote to something I have had a lifelong interest in -- training and showing. My personal vet recommended leaving her ears natural. How would this effect us in the show ring?

I am in Western KY -- near Louisville. Can anyone recommend a good vet nearby (within a days drive) for having her ears done in show type cut? and what is the best age to get this done?  Thanks, Lisa Daniels  

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA  

You pose an interesting question.  I personally am not offended from natural ears but have always felt they do not get the same treatment as a cropped dog in the ring.  If your dog is of excellent quality it should not matter whether the ears are cropped or not.

If I were you I  would have the dog evaluated from an expert to determine it's confirmation quality.

If you are interested in finding someone in your area to help you - you can go to the DPCA Breeders directory. You will also need to find out from that individual if there a classes in your area that you might attend.

Q:  from jessee@infinet.com
Date:  23 Sep 2001

Comments: Doberman Health

Are skin problems in blue dogs treatable?  If a dog is 3 years old without problems what are the chances she will develop problems?

A: from Jim Anable

You asked what the chances were that a 3 year old blue Doberman without skin and coat problems would develop future problems.

Based on my experience (personal and talking with MANY dilute owners), the serious problems show up early.  Thinning coats usually show up between about 12 months and 3 years of age.  The earlier they start, the more severe the problem (in my experience).

Since your girl is now 3 and has not had a problem, chances are good that she will NEVER have a problem.  If she does, chances are good that it will be limited to minor thinning.

*** *** ***

Regarding skin problems in blue Dobermans:

Blue and Fawn (dilute) Dobermans often are affected from a condition called Color Dilution Alopecia (CDA).  CDA is genetic, although we do not understand the genetics behind it.  In a single litter, one dilute puppy may have CDA, and a littermate may have a perfectly normal coat.  Despite what some would have you believe, not all blues and fawns have skin and coat problems.  Blues and fawns can suffer from conditions such as follicular dysplasia, that also affect reds and blacks.  But serious skin problems are rare.

The average case of CDA begins as bilateral thinning of the coat along the flank.  Severe cases can result in complete balding of the dilute coat, but the typical case results in a very thin coat along the flanks.  CDA is not associated with any other health concerns, and dilute Dobermans are just as healthy as blacks and reds.

Many people believe that good nutrition and proper grooming lessen the effects of CDA.  There is anecdotal evidence that quality foods with vitamin supplements and fatty acids can actually reverse some of the balding.  This does not mean that all blues and fawns need supplementation of any form.  Some blues and fawns have wonderful coats without special treatment.

Research done from veterinary dermatologists has found that melatonin supplementation can also re-grow hair in dilute dogs with CDA.  Results vary, and you should not expect complete re-growth.  Even though it can be purchased over the counter, Melatonin should be used under the care of a veterinarian.

Blue and Fawn Dobermans are not for everyone.  While all Dobermans deserve the best nutrition and care, blue and fawn coat quality is dependent on this.  I always advise a puppy buyer to only consider a blue or fawn if they are prepared to love the dog just the same, even if it turns out to have a poor coat.

Q:  from DancStarDobes@aol.com
Date:  20 Oct 2001
 

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

Is there any quick way of drying up a bitches milk? My puppies are 4 weeks old tomorrow and eating nicely on there own but Mom still has a lot of milk.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada  

Hi Liz, In my opinion four weeks is too early to begin weaning the puppies. However, what I do with my bitches is withhold food and water for 24 hours. If she gets really thirsty I give her the odd ice cube. DO NOT allow the puppies to nurse at all...wean them completely now if you want to dry her up nicely. Keep a close eye on her bags during this period to make sure they don't get hot which can indicate the start of mastitis. If they start to become too warm milk them down yourself using a warm soft cloth. DO NOT allow the puppies to nurse as that simply fills her back up.

The first couple of days after the day of fasting I give full water privileges and 1/4 of her normal kibble ration. The next couple of days the same except that it would be 1/2 rations of kibble and after that back to full rations of kibble.

Q: from Debbie Mortimer
Date: 27 Sep 2001

Other - Do you have any information on bike training? - Do you recommend it?

A: from Barbara Bilder

Note that it is important to wait until the dog is about 18 months old before doing much with the bike (probably VERY short distances would be ok for training purposes). The growth plates need to close. The same is true for jumping in Agility.

Q: from dogzzz1@aol.com
Date: 10 Oct 2001

Comments:  Doberman Health

My puppy is down on his FRONT pads and the wrists seem slightly bowed. This only appears after he has been up and moving for a while, when he first comes out of his crate in the am. he looks fine. What should be done for him, he's 11weeks old now and 24lbs. Thanks, Marty

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA 

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada  

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada 

A:  from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA 

One of my basic standards in evaluating puppies at this age is to first watch them on the ground.  How do they interact with their litter mates, how do they hold themselves, how do they move.  Are they inquisitive and check things out in their surroundings.  Once you can determine these attitudinal issues then you can move on to physical structure.

The evaluation of structure in young puppies is something that you learn over time.  You need to know the standard and be able to see the growth potential in the puppy to meet that standard.  Some things are basic and "stick" out - such is feet, pasterns, shoulders and rear.  You need to go over these piece from piece.

I like to see a puppy that is put onto the table - picked up and the feet placed on it's own when the puppy is set down.  Usually these puppies are the soundest.

A:  from Faye Strauss, Sherluck Dobermans, USA 

I look at pups from six weeks. Starting at six weeks the stack I see, factoring in movement, pretty much reflects the adult. Free movement (no lead), just at play. Review weekly and make final determination at 12 weeks.

A:  from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA 

A:  from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

A: from Bill Garnett, USA  

A: from Bill Garnett, USA  

A: from Jessica Wilcock, DVM, USA

A: from Ian Alexander, Walamara Dobermans, Australia 

 

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