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DPCA BREEDERS EDUCATION Q & A - Page 1 (2001 - 2002) |
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CURRENT
Q: from Duane Wyland
Date: 28
Dec 2002
Time:
21:45:39
Comments: Blood lines
Are there any current books or articles that state which are the preferred Doberman blood lines? I have heard that Franckenhorst is one of the best. How do I find out more information on the best Doberman lines?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I'm sorry to tell you there are no preferred lines. Each breeder has to stand on his or her own merits. Look for the past top breeders and what they stand for:
Have they consistently produced top dogs generation after generation?
Are they reputable with their peers?
Have they produced some top sires and dams?
Are they still actively breeding or are they one-shot, lucky people who happened to breed one good dog or one good litter?
Do they research their prospective buyers?
Do they health test all breeding stock?
Are they members of a Chapter Club or Parent Club?
It's kind of like asking which car is the best. Its probably the one you bought that you were satisfied with.
Q: from July
Date: 28
Dec 2002
Time:
19:16:05
Comments: Doberman Health
They were about 7 and one was about 5 years. The lumps were seeming to grow out
of the skin (not under, like I said before), kind of like black moles, they were
very soft and one particular lump was kind of cauliflower-ish.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I would certainly have a Vet check them. They could be a form of skin cancer or some kind of warts. Only a Vet would know for sure.
Q: from July
Date: 28
Dec 2002
Time:
15:29:08
Comments: Doberman Health
Recently at a friends house I found that most of her dogs had bumps and lumps
under the skin and some under the eyelid. Is this a common problem to Dobermans
or only to specific lines?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
You didn't mention the ages of her dogs. Most time when Dobermans are 7 years of age and older, they, as well as all other breeds, will develop benign lumps. Some of these lumps may turn cancerous or even be cancerous but most times they are soft, movable lumps that don't hurt the dogs unless they interfere with walking, seeing or eating. These benign lumps can easily be removed but if they are not causing any problems, almost always are left alone. They will usually grow in size however and require removal.
Q: from Gerry
Date: 26
Dec 2002
Time:
03:00:20
Comments: Doberman Health
I just noticed some sores in my 11 month old Kane's mouth on the gums and inner
lips. They look like human canker sores, could they be just that? My
wife has a pretty bad cold/flu right now, could this just be a sign that he got
it too? Should I take him to the Vet or just keep an eye on it for a while
first?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Gerry I would take him to the vet...as far as I know they normally cannot catch most things that we get. I think they can only catch most from other dogs. I could be wrong but for safeties sake please take him to your vet.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I'd take your dog to the Vet immediately. It could be nothing but then why take the chance and wait until things get worse?
Q: from Stevie
Date: 26
Dec 2002
Time:
20:19:30
Comments: calcium and ear crop
I worked as a vet tech and in the 70's and 80's the vet I worked with would
always place the Doberman pup on calcium tabs 2 weeks prior to ear crop and then
continue it there after. I have recently read that some vets feel that calcium
or supplements actually can cause certain problems especially CVI. I have a 5
month old Doberman whom I have had on calcium since 12 weeks and it has helped
his ears somewhat. I have also read where now it seems that calcium isn't needed
for cartilage like once thought. I am caught in the middle with my thoughts on
this could you give me some insight on the subject? thanks. Am I hurting the
health of my pup by keeping him on calcium?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
There is no longer a need for added calcium, particularly for cartilage/ear problems and in fact, added calcium can and does cause other problems.
You haven't hurt your pup for the two months that he has been on the calcium but if I were you I would quit supplementing now so that you don't end up harming him.
Q: from Kim Paterson
Date: 22
Dec 2002
Time:
06:59:39
Comments: Breeders of Dobermans
There are two breeders I have read a lot about on the Internet and I am thinking
about making contact with. One is Wittrock Dobermans and the other is LeGard
Dobermans. Any information, positive or negative, would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot for your help.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Sorry Kim, but this site is not set up to deal with referrals. I'd suggest you go to the DPCA site and contact either the Membership secretary or the Chapter Club secretary who will give you referrals to people in the area you might contact for information on breeders.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
You should ask any breeders you talk to for references just like the breeder should ask for the same from you. Have a list of questions handy. Ask about health testing of the parents and give them your list. If the parents are not tested and x-rayed, consider that a red flag. Ask about anything that concerns you and tell them what you will expect from them as a breeder. Those are a few of the things that I advise.
The main thing is to interview the breeder and ask for references from them and have questions ready for the breeder's references that you may contact too.
Unfortunately we are not a referral service (you can go to www.DPCA.org for that) and we don't give positive or negative feedback on anyone.
Q: from Johnna
Date: 20
Dec 2002
Time:
03:25:46
Comments: Taping Ears
How long after having a Dobie's ears cropped do they need to be posted? Is
there a certain length of time or a rule to follow?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
You will need to post and tape the ears until they are standing perfectly straight up with out pockets and etc. This normally takes about 6 months or can be even longer. They stand earlier sometimes but for the perfect standing ear you will have to plan on some time to be spent taping and taping. Please refer to the ear taping article that is on the this site. You can print the article to have on hand if you like.
Maybe we can refer you to someone that lives nearby that can guide you through this process. I can also refer you to a booklet by Bonnie Wittrock titled Ear Crop Aftercare. You may call Bonnie at 503-472-6688 or e-mail her at bwittrock@macnet.com. She also has a section in her booklet about problem solving. She covers the whole process in depth.
Q: from Polly DeRoy
Date: 14
Dec 2002
Time:
13:12:55
Comments: Doberman Health
Over the years I have been fortunate enough to have been given some of the most
wonderful Dobermans in need of a good home. I have had all 4 colors. so I know
of the skin problems in the fawns and blues.
My most recent dog is a two year old blue male. He has the worst ears that I have ever seen. First the crop was botched (they are way to short and look like a pit bull's ears) and second they were pegged poorly. As a result one ear flops on top of his head and the other flops down. Do you know of anyway this can be fixed at his age? Can I just try to re-peg them? He is a wonderful dog and I feel I owe it to him to try to fix his problem.
Thank you for any information you can give me.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
I think that problem will be hard to correct but it is worth a try. What have you got to lose?
Here is a method that Dr. Tully told me of years ago and it did work. You tape the ear down to the side of his head to stretch the pockets out and leave it on for at least 3 weeks. You will probably have to change the wrapping and because of his age you may have to tape it down longer.
When you do take it down the ear should just hang there like the other problem ear. You then tape the ear correctly, as if you were training it stand upright all over again. To use your words re-peg them once you have both ears hanging. When you re-peg them, pull the ear out to about the 10 o'clock and/or 2 o'clock position and put tape around the base of the ear, all the while stretching it up and out. You should see the pocket pop out when you do this. When you do this make sure that the tampon or whatever you use doesn't ride up the ear hole. Keep it pushed down tight.
On the ear that is flopped down just re-peg and hope for the best. I have a feeling that taping it may not work on that ear. You may be able to fix that ear surgically but in that case you will need to find a veterinarian (an experienced ear cropper) to take a look at it and to guide you. Depending on where you live, maybe we can recommend one near you.
Q: from BK
Date: 09
Dec 2002
Time:
20:11:55
Comments: Very Dry Skin
Our 7-month-old red female has very dry flaky skin; otherwise, she appears to be
generally healthy. We recently changed her food from Nutro to Pro Plan
(large breed) and have been (at the suggestion of our Vet) giving her Linatone
for the past month. Since we have not seen any noticeable improvement
should we be concerned? She does not seem to be bothered by it (i.e. - she
does not scratch) – it looks like a bad case of dandruff.
Someone told me to get her thyroid levels checked? Any other
suggestions/comments/recommendations?
Thanks
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
When you make a change in diet you need to give the diet some time to get into the system and take over before you notice any results. I would add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and fresh raw hamburger to the kibble too. I use a product called Missing Link which is a pretty good additive for skin and coat too and well worth a try. I do think that there are better products out there than Linatone and Missing Link is one of them. I feed Missing Link, Flax Seed Oil and Olive Oil.
If you have been feeding your other
diet for a month or more it is most
likely not working for the dog. You should see a change with the above
suggestion in about 10 days to 2 weeks.
You can also mix baby oil with water or use rosewater topically to help with the flaking. Brush her every day too. She probably has a lot of dead hair.
I suggest (is reasonable price wise) buying a 20 tooth hack saw blade and making the baby oil/water mixture (50-50). Put the oil on her and use the blade using short, firm (not hard - just enough to where you see hair coming out) strokes starting at the base of the ears ( you can do the head too) and all over the body and legs. You will be amazed at the amount of hair that comes out. Use the blade and your hands with the baby oil still on them.
This is hard to explain in writing so I am hoping you understand. After you do this take a soft wet towel and wipe her down in the direction of hair growth. Her hair coat will absorb the baby oil. Do this daily until you get all of the dead hair out and then you can do it weekly (or whenever you decide) as a regular routine (such as when you do the toenails and any other grooming).
Dobermans, like other breeds, need regular grooming. This will almost stop the hair shedding all over everything that she lays on in the house.
When you bathe her, soak her down really good and use a diluted shampoo. Massage it into her coat gently with the growth of the hair, not against the growth of the hair. Use a dog shampoo too. Rinse well. Try this and I think that you will be happy with the results.
In the summertime you can use a sunscreen on her too to prevent sunburn that is often associated with the reds who love to lay out in the sun.
Feel free to ask me more questions if you need to clarify anything written above.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Is it possible your puppy might have a staff infection? Are you brushing her? Many times brushing on a short coated dogs just causes the skin to flake. Is she laying by a heat register? Is this something fairly recent? Is she clear of parasites?
The food you have her on is not bad, but as to the large breed type, I wouldn't go that way. Too much protein. Regular Pro Plan would be a better choice. I'd add an egg yolk to her food once or twice a week and some canned meat or cottage cheese but it doesn't sound like it's the dog food causing the problem.
It's dry skin unless it's a staph infection. The Linatone should help too.
Q: from Mistie Mayo
Date: 08
Dec 2002
Time:
22:59:23
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
My boyfriend and I have a four year old male Doberman named Amadaeus. We
would like to find a female to breed with, but we are unsure of the best way to
go about doing it. We thought to put out a flyer but what information
would need to be on it? We would appreciate any advice possible.
Thank you for your time and consideration. Sincerely, M. M. Mayo
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Dear Mistie,
You haven't mentioned the health testing done on your male. You will need
to have his hips and elbows x-rayed and sent to OFA (your Vet will tell you how
this is done). He will need his Thyroid tested and the result should be normal.
He must have an x-ray of his heart and cardiac tests such as EKG and Ultra-sound
echo done as well. He should have a DNA test from Vetgen to determine if
he is a vWD affected (a bleeding disorder) dog or not.
Once all of the above is done you
should get a professional to tell you if your Doberman meets the Breed Standard.
It is very important that he have 42 correctly placed teeth and a scissors bite.
The Doberman Standard has a Disqualification on teeth in so please make sure he
has no Disqualification.
From there, my advice is to enter him in a local dog show. If he is a big
winner, people will flock to him in order to use him. If he loses, no one
will want to use him.
He must finish his Championship
before being bred however. Male Dobermans are a dime a dozen therefore
only the best that meet the standard for the breed and have a beautiful pedigree
of top quality champions will get the best bitches.
If you put out flyers, you will get only lower quality bitches and needless to
say the puppies won't look very good and will not be very easy to sell.
So, good luck. I'm sure you will do well in your upcoming shows.
Q: from Bob
Date: 03
Dec 2002
Time:
14:54:12
Comments: Doberman Temperament
A family friend purchased a "Superior Sized" female Doberman from a notorious
puppy mill. They are experienced Doberman owners having had many over 25+
years from well respected DPCA breeders but are now recognizing temperament
problems with this particular Doberman. This Doberman is now 1 year old
(90 lbs.) and is becoming increasingly more difficult to handle (jumping
on/nipping only the women) in the household. The dog has received basic
obedience training and does well with its male owner and trainers but does not
seem to respect/obey the women in the family.
They have asked me to help them find someone professional to evaluate the dog to
make sure that this does not become a serious problem in the future. Any
thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I would make sure it's the women in the family who are taking this dog to Obedience. The dog just doesn't have any respect for the women and knows he can get away with anything. It shows the dog is smart enough to realize he can't dominate the men so this is a problem that will get worse as he gets older if the women don't do the training and making sure the dog knows who's boss.
Q: from Carol Fontaine
Date: 27
Nov 2002
Time:
18:15:39
Comments: Reputable Breeders
How do I check the reputation of a breeder who does not live locally. I want to
make sure that I am not buying from a back yard breeder or a puppy mill.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I would check with the local Doberman club to see what some of their Show members have to say about these people. They usually know the reputation of all those in their area.
You could also write us back with the breeder's name and the name of the sire and dam if they have puppies and we can tell you if we've heard of them, etc.
Puppy Mills churn out litter after
litter. They don't show their dogs but just breed the heck out of them.
They usually have their own stud on the premises and rarely if ever do any
health testing on any of their dogs. They have kennels usually and the dogs for
the most part are not house pets. They advertise extra large King Dobermans or
Warlock dogs (which is a totally incorrect term as Warlock was a medium-sized
great show dog in the 50's and early 60's). They also rarely give shots other
than maybe the first shot and only worm the puppies once if that. Additionally,
they don't do ear crops and tend to let puppies go younger than eight weeks of
age.
You can also ask Vets, Kennel Clubs or see if they are members of DPCA.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Go to the DPCA web-site and go to the breeder referral page and check out the breeders that are listed in your area. Devise a battery of questions so that you can interview the breeder just as they should interview you too.
Take along a complete list of questions. If there any red flags popping up for you at your interview listen to your gut instinct.
1. Are both of the parents tested, before they were bred, for all of the inherent diseases that Dobermans have that have a test? For example:
vWD
thyroid panel
Holter Monitor
Echo-cardiogram
X-rayed for hip dysplasia (and even elbows)
eyes tested (CERF)
How are they raised.
What about temperament testing?
2. Could I have a list of people that I may contact who have puppies your? Call or email them in order to talk to them about their breeder.
Often a reputable breeder will ask you for referrals from you so that they can find out about you.
Also, please remember that a reputable breeder normally doesn't have more than one litter at a time and certainly not more than one or two litters per year.
We have a multitude of great articles on this site for you to read that may also answer some of your concerns. Articles, for example, like Buying A Doberman and Are You A Breeder Or Do You Just Breed as well as a multitude of others. You can check them out on our Article Menu.
Q: from Nichelle Sanders
Date: 29
Nov 2002
Time:
03:02:59
Comments: Doberman Health
I Just recently discovered the BARF diet. I haven't
tried it yet because I need a few more answers. I love the concept of this
program and it only makes sense to feed your Dobe natural food. As I was
trying to do more research on this, I kept getting websites which were selling
pre-packaged "barf" food. I thought the whole basis of this was staying
away from packaged food? They say their ingredients are 95% meat and
veggies, so what's the other 5%? And how do I know that what the company
tells me is true and not just some testimonial to get me to buy their products.
I'd rather just stick to the natural basics so I'm looking for a good book to
read on this that's not endorsed by a company that sells these products.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
What you hear about the benefits of feeding the raw diet (BARF) I have found to be true. I have been feeding my version of the diet for over 3 years now and I am very happy. Before I got started I found that the inexpensive book by Kymythy R. Schultze, Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats, The Ultimate Diet, to be very informative. For me it is a small book and to the point and easiest to follow. There are other books. I do my own buying and preparing.
I have only found one company so far that prepare a totally raw diet as prescribed in the above mentioned book but it is local to my area in California. Kymythy's book tells you what the different foods have what nutrition and everything that the dog needs and why.
It took me a while to let go of feeding kibble (I fed Solid Gold's Hundenfloken). I do feed my own mixture of grains, not a lot though. You can get this book from www.dogwise.com and also at www.4mdogbooks.com and it costs under $10.00. There is a web-site for them too. It is www.hayhouse.com
Q: George Kent
Date: 24 Nov 2002
Time: 17:40:18
Comments: Doberman Temperament
What are the differences in temperament and personality traits between males and
females?
A: from
Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
There are definitely differences in males and female Dobes generally and there
are exceptions of course.
Males tend to be more a woman's dog IF the woman is very much "into" the dogs.
The males are usually very loving, laid back and tend to be more Velcro in their
attachments.
Bitches love everyone, especially the men in the family. They usually are "busy"
and take the lead if they are raised in homes with males. They boss the males
around.
Males can sometimes act a little dumb when it comes to figuring things out
whereas bitches catch on more quickly.
Males will have their feelings hurt quicker if corrected. Bitches listen but
shrug it off and are on to the next thing.
Most women who raise Dobermans usually have males and are totally devoted to
them and vice versa. We most always have bitches that we love but it's the males
who are our best friends.
Judy Doniere (who for the first time in years only has 2 bitches now and they
seem to have "male" temperaments) LOL.
Q: from Jim W.
Date: 23
Nov 2002
Time:
11:33:44
Comments: Ears
My female Dobe had her ears cropped about 2 weeks ago. The vet I took her to
just put foam in them with NO tape. That's not good is it? When I took her
back to get her stitches taken out he said that she had the strongest hears he
had ever seen. He told me to go ahead and leave her props out that her ears
would be fine. Have you ever heard of such?? She has been without
her props for about a week now. And now her ears have fallen slightly and are
bending back at the tips. Should I put her props back in and tape them myself??
Please help. Thanks.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Put them back up in props immediately. Never leave ears down that are falling. Please go to our ear taping pages and look through the different methods of taping ears featured there. Bookmark the pages if you wish as they will be invaluable to you.
It is rare that they stand like hers have done but its not uncommon. Good luck.
Q: from Nancy Clause
Date: 22
Nov 2002
Time:
19:44:43
Comments: Doberman Health
My one year old female black and rust Doberman has bumps under her skin.
There are a lot of them at times and they pop up in different locations on her
body. Is this a skin condition or an allergy?
She eats Nutro Max dry dog food supposedly for a nice coat and healthy skin.
The bumps seem to bother her, since she is scratching and chewing at them lately. (She was spayed at 8 months of age.)
Any suggestions?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Nancy it is very likely either hives or an
allergy to corn and wheat which are found in Nutro. Please switch her to a food
that has no corn or wheat such as Solid Gold for example. You can go here to
compare the various brands of food and their ingredients
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/wolfepack/foodcht4.html
Q: from Evie
Date: 20
Nov 2002
Time:
18:19:48
Comments: Doberman Demeanor
Do Dobermans generally find a quiet empty room to sleep?
Do they never stand up and look out the window while riding? Do they not pant?
Are they alarmed at and react to a burst of anger at one's spouse?
Are they cross when awakened by family members?
Are they shy about something out of place, like a grocery bag?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
This one is a bit of a tough one, but I will try. How old is this dog? Not much of these behaviors sound like a Doberman. I will try to answer you questions one at a time.
Are they shy about something out of place? They shouldn't be, but they should notice something out of place. If they do react, it should be a very mild reaction and they should almost immediately recover and check out the out of place object. A Doberman should not by shy.
It is not particularly normal for them to find a quiet empty room to sleep all of the time. Any dog sometimes needs time to themselves. Read the article on this site about the crate, your dogs best friend.
Most Dobermans are very curious and do look out the window and later settle down and take a nap while riding in the moving car. When you stop the car it is normal for your Doberman to wake up and check out what is going on. (that is being alert)
I like to warn people about fighting and arguing around a dog. They do get alarmed sometimes and they can take the initiative to help out which can turn out to not be a good choice.
Dogs can be momentarily be startled when suddenly awakened from a deep sleep but they should recover quickly enough to make the correct choice of recognizing their person.
Please take a look at an article on this site that talks about proper Doberman temperament and behavior.
Perhaps you can contact a animal
behaviorist in you area to help
you as well. I hope this response offers some help for you. There are articles
along with our Breed Standard, that describe
Doberman temperament in the article section of
this DPCA Breeders Education website.
Q: from
Leslie Dale
Date: 21
Nov 2002
Time:
05:00:51
Comments: Grading the Doberman Puppy
Wondering if my puppy has a hip problem: He is thirteen weeks old and has a very strong side to side swing in his hips when he walks. It is very noticeable. It seems to straighten out when he trots or runs. He definitely doesn't look like he is "standing in motion" as the article suggests. I know someone can't say without seeing him but does this sound normal? Or should I start saving for hip-replacement surgery!? :)
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
I think that I would check and see if your puppy has his hip out of place. He could have hit himself just right while running and playing. A doggy chiropractor can put it back into place. It should be checked now as you are just noticing it to keep it from becoming a permanent problem. The only way that I know of to check for hip dysphasia at this young age is through what is called Pin-Hip x-rays and I am not too sure about that. I would have it professionally checked out. Or??? Is he pacing? which is moving the front and back legs on the same side forwards and backwards at the same time?
Q: from K.C.
Date: 20
Nov 2002
Time:
02:50:48
Comments: ear taping
How long do you normally keep ears taped? How often should taping be changed?
A: from
Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Until they stand
properly...usually until they are 5-6 months of age although each dog is
different and some have needed taping until around a year of age. Normally it is
until they are done teething.
The tapes should be changed once a week. The ears should be well cleaned and
left out of tapes until they start to droop and then immediately put back up for
another week. Check them constantly for icky odors and if any are noticed change
and clean the ears sooner than a week.
Q: from
Char
Date: 19
Nov 2002
Time:
03:18:01
Comments: breeder unknown to us
Thanks for all your help!! It is greatly appreciated for as Rage has become my
child in this short time and we love her deeply ... however, today I did get
some tuna into her and a lot of pedialytes.
She does move around somewhat and she seems to be in some pain. She goes out to the pottie and we are keeping her very warm when inside. I have 3 blankets on her and she is being force fed baby food every hour ... not a lot as I don't want to upset her stomach. She responds to our voices and wags her little tail but she always tends to hold her head down ... could she have had some kind of a stroke since all of her blood work has come back negative?
She was given to me from some guy who got her from someone else. I have tried to track down where she was born but no one seems to know.
She was severely neglected and we were not aware of what a Dobe should look like which is why I thought she was okay for her age. (I was told she was only about 15 weeks old when I got her and I have had her only 2 weeks)
Believe me, if I knew these people I would injure them myself ... this is plain out cruelty. I just hope it is not too late for my little Rage as she has brought such joy to us in such a short time.
What has me puzzled the most is she was fine one minute and then the next she wasn't. I know this might sound strange but she went from playing to laying in about 30 minutes.
Can anyone help us?? We have said so many prayers but she is showing little improvement. We refuse to let her give up. if she is to remain blind that is something I can handle but just let my little girl survive this.
Thanks again and if you have any further advice we would greatly appreciate it.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I would certainly take her to another Vet. She appears to be injured somewhere.
How do you know she's 6 months instead of 15 weeks. What do her teeth look like? Does she still have baby teeth? If so, she's not 6 months but is actually younger than 5 months.
Are you positive she's a Doberman? She could be a Manchester Terrier or even a German Pinscher. I can't believe a Doberman can be only 15 pounds at that age. Dobe puppies of 13 weeks of age normally weigh that much. Please take her to another Vet tomorrow.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
One time ago, many years ago, I placed a dog with
a lady back East and sent him to her at 12 or so weeks of age weighing 35
pounds. She returned him to me at 7 months of age weighing 35 pounds. My vet at
the time told me to feed him small meals six
times a day and slowly but surely he improved. He would never be what he would
have been if he hadn't been neglected but he improved.
It looks as though you are doing everything that you can and she is responding. Just keep in touch with the veterinarian and do what he/she says to the letter.
Frankly, I don't know what else to tell you and I am praying for her too. Thank you, too, for keeping us posted.
*** *** ***
A: from Dr Patricia Edwards, DVM, Barchet Dobermans, USA
This puppy needs a
complete workup by a competent Vet. I would start with a complete history
and blood work and go from there. Something is seriously wrong and the
puppy may not live much longer if she doesn't get some good medical attention
soon.
Q: from
Carol Fontaine
Date: 17
Nov 2002
Time:
16:45:28
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
I am looking for a Doberman puppy to add to our family. I live in VT.
Can anyone help me find a breeder?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Unfortunately we're not at liberty to sell puppies on the DPCA Breeders Education site but I can tell you that you could go to www.dpca.org, then click on Breeder Referral on the right and follow what each page offers in order to check out clubs, members that can help you as well as the DPCA's breeder listings on that site.
Just so you know, many breeders ship puppies all over North America and some do internationally as well.
Q: from
*name unknown*
Date: Nov.17, 2002
Comments: Doberman Health
I have just recently gotten a Doberman puppy that is about 13 weeks old and very
skinny Now she hardly eats and acts like she is in pain. All she does is sleep.
Last night her mouth was bleeding from her biting her tongue (I think). What can
I do? I can find no answers on the internet ... it just talks of diseases. Do
they get kidney stones a lot and what are some of the signs?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Take her to the veterinarian. This does not sound good at all. You need to notify the breeder as well. Take her temperature too. Normal for a dog is around 101.5 degrees.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
I concur with Marj and would like to add that this is likely a very serious matter. It is imperative that you take her to see your vet immediately. This is NOT normal and it is highly unlikely she is biting her tongue in her sleep.
*** *** ***
from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
This is a terrible situation. I'm very surprised the Vet did not keep her and put her on electrolytes as I think she needs much more supportive care than can be given at home. Perhaps another Vet should be consulted today.
Just so you know, vWD can cause bleeding but
certainly not anything like this condition that she apparently has. She's
been horribly neglected prior to your getting her. If she's 6 months and
only weighs 15 pounds, personally I'd worry that anyone can save her, but having
said that, where there is life, there is hope.
For now, get some liver juice and using a syringe (without the needle of course)
give her some by mouth. She needs so much of everything. I'm sure
she's infected with worms.
Keep her very warm. Feed her by stomach tube if she can't or won't take nourishment by mouth. Everything you give her should be bland but nourishing. I'd feed her as much meat as she will eat…ground round at first. She needs plenty of liquid as well. I'd probably give her the milk formula that is sometimes fed to puppies. My own milk formula consists of canned evaporated milk, an equal amount of water, an egg yolk and a big blob of honey, all mixed together well. I'd also include Vitamins A, B, C, D and E in the milk formula. She needs everything and anything you can get down her and she needs it every 3 or 4 hours.
Feed her no large kibble at first as I doubt her stomach could handle it. Baby cereal added to the above mixture would be enough bulk for her.
Watch her stools closely because she can't afford to get diarrhea.
You didn't mention where you purchased this pup. If you got her from any breeder I'd call animal control if I were you and have that breeder investigated.
Please advise US where she came from as well as we need to find out who did such a thing to your poor baby. Please write and give us the details of your purchase, etc.
Is she purebred? If so, o you know the names of her sire and dam?
Good luck to you but unfortunately my best advice for you is to get her to another Vet immediately.
Q: from Ellen
Ball
Date: 14
Nov 2002
Time:
17:14:27
Comments: Breeding The Doberman
How much should I expect to pay for a stud service to a high quality young stud who hasn't been titled yet?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
First of all, this high quality dog should have all of his health testing done before he is even bred. His fee should be probably between $500.00 and a $1000.00 or a puppy back depending on the quality of the puppies that he has already sired. I am guessing however that this particular dog is not proven.
Your bitch should have all of her health testing done too before you can make a breeding decision for the total Doberman, which is supposed to be health, temperament and conformation, all in one package.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I guess whatever they charge is what you should expect. Many people start off a youngster with the price of a puppy. Average stud services range from $800.00 to $2000.00. Some stud owners will take a puppy in exchange for stud service.
What price do you expect to ask for puppies? It really makes no difference as to the first or last services. It's what the market will bear and how bad you want to use this dog.
Q:
from Roger Froment
Date: 11
Nov 2002
Time:
03:44:59
Comments: Dobes in Japan
I grew up in Vancouver, Canada. Our household always had a Doberman. Up until I
came to Japan (a couple of years), my wife and I also had a Dobe. We got her
from the SPCA at 10 months old.
My wife and I have a 2 year old daughter that we want to raise with a dog. The Doberman seems to be the only natural choice for us. We have the time, space, energy and love to give. All the Dobes that I've been around were female. Dragon is a male. I do feel that I have the confidence to raise him but are there any areas that I should look out for? i.e. - male vs female ...
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Roger, there are some differences in dogs and bitches but it's a matter of the individual animals. Dogs tend to be more of a "woman's" dog while bitches seem to love everyone. With an older male (actually with any older pup) the important thing to remember is since he may not have been raised around young children, you'll have to constantly supervise both the dog and your child. This goes without saying for any animal of any age interacting with young children. No being together unsupervised…period. This is for the safety of both the child and the dog.
Q: from Roger Froment
Date:
11 Nov 2002
Time:
00:06:49
Comment: Dobes in Japan
The dog in question does lead sad life. He seems gentle, well trained for
show. Although the breeder loves the dog with pride. From the looks of things he
is over the Dobe standard in size. So, useless to the breeder. I want to "Save"
Dragon, but I don't want to have an under socialized nightmare.???
Some things in Japan are over priced. For example, A Cheeseburger at McDonalds is the same as back home in the States, but breeders in Japan start their Dobes at $1000 and the show winners seem to be upward of $5000.
Was the burger a cheesy comparison?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Why don't you ask the owners if you can take the dog home on trial for a weekend. If they don't know you however, I doubt they'd let you do it. If not, I'd then spend time with the dog at their home. See how he reacts in the house and to you and your family.
He is just 12 mo. old and he is still a puppy. Dobes, especially males don't mature until around 3 (and many not until much later than that). If you give him plenty of love and attention, have someone home with him during the day and use a crate for housebreaking and at night but leaving him supervised in the house he should be fine.
You haven't mentioned. Have you had a Doberman before? Does your wife equally want a Dobe and do you have children?
Q: from
Roger Froment
Date: 10
Nov 2002
Time:
16:02:49
Comments: Dobes in Japan
I live in Kurume City, Japan. I am in the middle of trying to find the right
Dobe for a house pet. I have found a number of breeders that have beautiful
dogs. I have also seen a few places that made feel sad as returned home.
The "Top dogs" are in a price range that only the rich and overly proud would pay for. In your years, what have you seen Dobes sell for. I have found a breeder that breeds for show. He has a reputation and a good track record with other breeders that I have talked to. He seems to only breed for show. His forte is young dogs. He has a male that is 12 months old. He has been trained as a show dog, but lives in his crate. Do you feel that a Dobe with this sort of history can develop into a healthy house pet? My wife has been told that a dog that has been crated will likely be predisposed to marking. I have no intention to breed, so neutering would be on the list. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Also, does anyone know anything about the amount of time a dog would have to spend in quarantine at the Japanese customs?
P.S. Great link!!!
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
It's sad that the dogs must live in crates.
You didn't say how long the dog stays in them. Does he have any time as a
house pet? How many dogs do they have and how often are they allowed out
to be played with etc. This does makes a difference. If the dogs are just
crated for rest or bed time,
that's fine but if they only get out to go outside and then back to a crate,
that's not good.
I can't believe you can't find several good breeders who breed for show but do
have pets from these litters available.
The prices here for pet males (and they go with a neutering/and limited
registration) is anywhere from $800.00 to $1000.00 U.S. and that is usually with
ear crops included. They are sold at 10 weeks of age.
A male of 12 months is still very much a puppy and with proper, loving training
there should be no problem with housebreaking.
I'm not sure but I would think if the dog was from England or Australia, there
would be no quarantine. If from the U.S. or other countries it used to be
6 weeks but that was many years ago. I don't know what it is now, but call
your Dept. of Agriculture or ask a Vet. for the correct answer.
Good luck.
Q: from
Melissa
Date: 08
Nov 2002
Time:
00:54:26
Comments: Ear Cropping
Have you ever heard of taping the ears after the cropping surgery and without a
bridge?
The vet recommended taping the ears after surgery (leaving the stitches open to air of course) due to the puppy being between 12 and 16 weeks of age.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Actually yes I have but IMO you must really know how to tape ears and what to watch for as far as the ears go. Please go to our ear taping pages to check out the different methods of taping in order to find the one that is best suited to you.
Q: from
Kirt Allen
Date: 06
Nov 2002
Time:
04:47:09
Comments: Dachshund gestation
I have a 2 yr. old Dachshund -- we took her to be bred. She was with the male
for about 3 hours, then the male lost interest in her the next day. Since she
has been home she is different. She doesn't want to play fight anymore, she just
wants her belly rubbed. How can I tell if she is pregnant? Are there any signs
to look for?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Good gosh, tell me, did they breed? You will have
to wait a few weeks to really, visually tell. The fact that she has a noticeable
personality change is a sign for me. Also when their nipples develop they will
be a reddish pink at the base and at about 4-5 weeks a clear discharge from the
vulva shows. You can have her ultra-sounded at approximately 21-28 days. I don't
normally do this because shortly after the 28 days you can usually visibly see
that she is pregnant. You look for an slight bulging at the lower loin
area. Hopefully you will get more answers, because this is hard to explain.
Q: from
Patricia Warf
Date: 05
Nov 2002
Time:
14:38:48
Comments: Doberman Health
I just lost my Dobie of 10-1/2 years. He had an enlarged heart, making it hard
to breath. We were at the vets where they brought him back once but not the
second time. Any information on enlarged hearts would be appreciated thanks.
A: from Marj Brookes, Manorie Dobes, USA
I am sorry that you lost your dog. Heart disease is an inherent problem on our breed and we need to be testing our breeding stock prior to breeding and every year after we get our baseline.
For more information on this subject please go to the following web addresses to read about this disease:
Q: Beverly
Date: 29
Oct 2002
Time:
15:14:16
Comments: Doberman Health
My 2 month old "RED" Doberman seems to have very thin coat on back ... any
advice about this would be appreciated. She is very healthy.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Have you had her tested for a thyroid condition?
Q: from Perry
Jackson
Date: 28
Oct 2002
Time:
17:06:27
Comments: Doberman Temperament
Hello. I am considering a Doberman (from a reputable breeder of course). I have
read just about everything I can find on the internet (this site is the best by
the way).
My question deals with Dobermans and cats. My wife has 2 cats. If I raise a puppy with the cats I assume I should not have problems. I just wanted to ask an expert. Any advise appreciated. THANKS
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
I have always had cats along with my Dobermans ... they even sleep together by choice believe it or not. If they are raised together *properly* there will be no problem. It is up to you to make certain the puppy understands that he cannot be too rough on the cat. Its all in the training...
REPLY:
Theresa Cahill
Date: 24
Oct 2002
Time:
10:06:54
Comments: cropping ears
OK I realize the part about a competent vet but how long or where is the
measuring point to get those long airplane length ears that are known in the
show ring??
I have heard of people flying in others from places like Georgia because they like how they did someone else's ears. Will I be penalized if my vet can do them if I get the right measuring guideline to use as to the length. I have heard that to the inside of the eye is the good length.
Any information is greatly appreciated. Thank you
in advance.
A: from
Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I just take them ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP. Don't cut off any length. I always stand over the cropper and make sure they go to the top. Then all that's left is to just make them pretty with the clamps as well as good aftercare as well.
*** *** ***
Q: from
Theresa Cahill
Date: 22
Oct 2002
Time:
14:59:31
Comments: ear cropping
Hello. My bitch is pregnant and I want to prepare for the pups' final
appearance. When do you crop the ears and where would I find the right
measurements for where and when to do the procedure?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Hi Theresa. The age of cropping is usually anywhere between 6 - 12 weeks of age with 12 weeks being the outside that one would want to go. I myself prefer 6 weeks as I have found the puppies don't take it quite as hard and tend to recover faster at that age but you take a bigger risk with the potential for disease too.
As for where and when to do the procedure, I'm not really sure exactly what you mean. The where would obviously be at a qualified veterinarian's clinic...preferably one who has successfully cropped Doberman ears previously. The when I believe was answered in the first paragraph. If I am wrong about either of the latter questions, please feel free to send in another query and either I or someone else will surely answer it for you.
Q: from
Denise Vance
Date: 21
Oct 2002
Time:
17:13:41
Comments: Doberman Health
I have a fawn, male Doberman. He will be 6 in December. At this time, he is suffering from megaesophagus. I have all the confidence in the world in my veterinarian.
We have ruled out a thyroid problem, myastenia gravis, and have tests pending for Cushings and/or Addison's disease. At this time, he seems to have developed a condition where patches of hair are falling out on his shoulder/leg area. If anyone has any idea what could be causing his condition, I would very much appreciate the help. He has had no major health problems until this condition developed in June of this year.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Your dog seems to be a little old to suddenly developing megaesophagus, but it does happen. When it is found in older dogs, it's usually a faulty vagus nerve innervention to the esophagus preventing passage of food from the throat to the stomach. Pneumonia is a common occurrence in this case.
Raising the food dish is a help in preventing this. Unless there is some other thing not diagnosed along with this, the falling out of patches of hair does not seem to be associated with this condition.
Since Fawns are a double dilution, many do have coat problems but these are thinning of hair mostly on sides of bodies and underlines. The neck and back are the last to lose hair most times. If it's patches, then I'd have another evaluation done on your dog...possibly at a University to diagnose the problem.
Q: from
Lynn Martin in VA
Date: 21
Oct 2002
Time:
14:27:02
Comments: Temperament Problems
Having difficult time with 8 mo. Doberman. She is very hyper, jumps and
nips, digs and seems to need to chew or something until exhausted -- then she
sleeps.
I have tried changing diet to lamb and rice, using shaker can, water guns which get her to back off but she comes right back and circles, etc. She growls at me sometimes and nips really hard.
I have had 2 Dobermans previously and have not experienced this kind of behavior. Any suggestions?
She has been spayed. Didn't help. She wants to be top dog obviously over me. I do work on leash with her also - cracked a knuckle on one of her lunges.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
The only suggestion I would have is to take the pup to formal Obedience training and once she learns to behave, try her in Agility. She would love it and probably would work off her energy.
This may be a hereditary situation. Do you know anything about the parents and/or littermates? Is she alone most of the day? If so, this could account for her hyperactivity. If not, then she needs formal training right away.
I would not allow a pup to growl or act this way. It will only get worse, not better.
Q: from
Jean
Date: 19
Oct 2002
Time:
00:58:10
Comments: Cropping ears in Philadelphia
I was wondering if anyone knows or recommends a vet in Philadelphia, PA who does
good ear crops and who is knowledgeable of the Doberman breed. I know many who
do cropping but I don't know their qualifications. Thanks
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
There is a good woman Vet in the PA area but I can't think of her name. Contact Marj Datskow. Her e-mail address is : datelis@aol.com. She may know of someone good in your area.
Q: from
Marsha
Date: 18
Oct 2002
Time:
03:23:32
Comments: Doberman Conformation/Handling
My 5 month old male Dobe broke his toe yesterday,( it was the middle toe on his
right hind paw). The vet told me there was nothing you could do other than
cage rest. Should I be concerned of any permanent damage such as splay foot or
problems with his movement?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Usually broken toes heal with no problem to the foot. Make sure it's not sticking up or out however. Do not tape the foot. Just use crate rest or keep the pup quiet for several days until it heals.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
From my experience with broken toes, you leave them alone like your vet has advised. In all of my experiences the toe healed and went back to normal.
I had a Doberman with cat feet break a toe one time and I was advised to leave it alone and the foot did return to the cat foot once it had healed.
I have seen cases where they have been taped up and oddly enough. that didn't appear to be the correct choice.
Q: from Bob
Date: 10
Oct 2002
Time:
16:44:09
Comments: Doberman Health
We have a six-month old red female. She vomits after waking in the middle
of the night and early morning hours, usually multiple times. We are
trying to isolate what might be causing this to happen. Our vet said to
try to give her Pepcid before bed but that does not appear to be helpful.
She is otherwise generally healthy.
We recently changed her food from Nutro puppy large breed to Pro Plan puppy
large breed. Could the food switch be causing the problem (is Pro Plan a
good food)? We also let her chew rawhide bones before she goes to sleep
(by the way is rawhide ok for Dobermans in general?).
All responses are appreciated!
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
Did she have any problems with throwing up before you changed her food and what was the reason that you changed?
Rawhide is okay for Dobermans in general but as always, the rule of thumb should be there can be too much of a good thing. I was once told that the pure white bulk rawhides were cured with strychnine so I personally avoid those. I certainly do not wish to take any chances with my kids.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Did she vomit before you changed the food? Are the rawhides a new addition? I personally am not crazy about giving rawhides (I chose raw bones), but I don't think as a general rule they will hurt the dog. Maybe she should be on adult food. I learned one time that dogs have a harder time digesting the milk products in puppy food after 4 months. I am not sure that it is true but.....
Q:
from Courtney K.
Date: 09
Oct 2002
Time:
14:07:07
Comments: affects of second-hand smoke on puppies
Could you please send the answer to my question (and soon) because I'm using
this information for a science project.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
There have been no clinical studies on the effects of second hand smoke on pets. Fortunately, the amount of smoke our pets are exposed to is much less than the amount we inhale. Their environment, even within the house, is a little bit different than ours because they're down within a few feet of the floor and we're usually up five feet from the floor. Obviously the smoke concentration will be different between those two places. However, owners whose animals are prone to respiratory infections should steer their pets clear of smoky air.
Q: From:
James
Date:
05 Oct 2002
Time:
16:56:17
Comments: buying from America
Can I import a pointed ear Doberman from America? If so how do I go about this?
Thank you.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Yes you can import a cropped dog but it depends on
where you live as to how long the quarantine is if any and you can't show it if
its cropped.
Q:
From: James
Date: 05
Oct 2002
Time:
11:50:36
Comments: Ear Cropping
Is it against British regulations to have their ears pointed? If so how do
I go about it?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
It is my understanding that you cannot have it done in Britain but I believe you can import a cropped dog although it cannot be shown. Perhaps other breeders can write in and clarify this but its likely to be a bit of a wait for you right now since the American Nationals are on therefore very few people have the access or the time to go online right now.
Q: from Becky
Date: 02
Oct 2002
Time:
17:11:06
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
How old should a male be before he is used for breeding?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
I truly believe that a male should be as close to 24 months as possible so that all the necessary health testing can be done on him prior to using him at stud. The hip x-rays cannot be sent to OFA until the dog is 24 months.
If you are determined to use the dog at a younger age do not use him before he is a year old and at least get preliminary x-rays of his hips before breeding.
Q:
Alexander
Date: 01
Oct 2002
Time:
19:55:34
Comments: obedience training
Is there difference between Doberman sexes (male VS. female)
which would perform/get trained better for obedience trials?
if yes what would be the reason? Who would be more preferable for that kind of
training? Thank you. Alex.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
It is my belief that a male, if neutered, is the better dog for it as they are more willing to please. A female, if whole, is cranky and always coming into heat and yet if spayed they tend to work as good as if not better than the males.
Q: from Ida
Date: 28
Sep 2002
Time:
00:42:58
Comments: Grading the Doberman Puppy
What do the letters WSO mean in front of my puppy's registration. Also why
would it say on my certificate Limited Registration and in the corner it states
Offspring of this dog not eligible for registration. Is there a problem with my
puppy?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Hello Ida,
It probably is WS0***** and not WSO***** which is just part of the dog's individual registration number that is assigned to him by AKC. The 'Limited Registration' and 'Offspring of this dog not eligible for registration' simply means that this particular dog was sold to you by the breeder as a PET and as such cannot be bred but if it is bred then the puppies will not be able to be registered. It is simply the breeder's way of ensuring that dogs they bred that they themselves consider not to be show quality prospects are not allowed to reproduce. It is very common. In Canada we have Non-Breeding papers as opposed to Limited Registrations.
So, in effect, it is a small means for breeders to protect the years of heartache and tears, testing, disappointments, etc. that we breeders go through to ensure that our kennel name and our breeding stock and ultimately our reputation remain unsullied.
It does not mean that your puppy is inferior...it simply means that we as breeders do not consider it to be of the superb quality, that we have as a picture in our own minds, that we require to breed and to reproduce.
Because your puppy came from the same dogs that the others in the litter did, essentially he is the same as all of the other puppies in the litter except maybe for a *minor* fault that we as breeders may not want to breed into our line. Other than that, it is a beautiful puppy and as such, one that you can be proud of just as you should be proud that you found a breeder who thinks enough of her dogs and her bloodlines to put pets on restricted registration.
Q: from
Heidi
Date: 23
Sep 2002
Time:
22:58:53
Comments: Lazy Ear
I adopted a 12 month old male Doberman who had a "lazy" right ear. I have
continued taping it and it would stand for over a week but then begin to droop a
little again. He is now 18 months of age, and his ear is doing much better
-almost perfect -just lazy occasionally. Is there any specific ear taping
methods or nutritional/ herbal remedies that might help completely fix his ear
for good? Has anyone heard of the Aktivas tent up ear inserts?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Hi Heidi,
Yes I have heard of the Activa tent up ear inserts but have no personal experience with them whatsoever. I suspect now that your boy is 18 months what you see is what you're going to get. However, having said that, it likely wouldn't hurt to keep on taping until he is two.
I knew a breeder whose boy had the same problem ... he was re-cropped at 24 months (he had really heavy, thick ear leather) and believe it or not, they stood.
Q: from
Lucy Guest
Date: 25
Sep 2002
Time:
18:41:43
Comments: Doberman Temperament
My Doberman puppy is 12 weeks old and weighs 22 lbs. We have had him for 6 weeks
and just got a Yorkie who is 9 weeks old and weighs 2 lbs.
We were told if we wanted a Yorkie to get it now while our Doberman is still a baby. The Doberman won't leave him alone. He can start out being gentle but then gets rough and bites him. Any suggestions as to how we can get these two to be best buddies and how long should it take?
Thanks, Lucy
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Getting the Yorkie while your boy was a puppy was a mistake.
I have had Dobermans for years and occasionally a Pomeranian as well as a cat. My puppies learn while very young not to bother the little guys. All I do is be consistently firm with them. They bother the little guys, they get crated.
It may take a little while depending on how firm and how consistent you are with them.
Q: from
Jennifer
Date: 21
Sep 2002
Time:
01:26:49
Comments: Shedding
My husband is allergic to all cats and some dog fur/dander - in spite of their
short coats, do Dobermans still shed a lot and can we still consider buying a
Doberman? We truly love the breed and hope that his allergies won't
prevent us from buying one. Can someone please tell us how much hair to
expect around the house?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Unfortunately they can and do shed a lot. Constant brushing helps but believe me, they shed just like any other dog can do.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Before you decide whether a Doberman is for you I'd go visit several people with them or a breeder who has several. Spend a few hours with them. See if the allergies flare up.
Dobermans, like most dogs, will shed at least twice a year. Show breeders have bred out most undercoats which are usually responsible for allergies. The coats are very short but they still will shed some.
About the only breeds that people
with allergies seem not to mind are
Poodles, Bedlingtons, Smooth Cresteds or any hairless breed and breeds that have
hair and not fur.
It would be very sad for a dog
(puppy or adult) to find they will be gotten
rid of once they've become attached to their family. Make sure you get the
right dog and keep it for a lifetime. Dogs are not disposable.
Q: from
Tiffany Skidmore
Date: 18
Sep 2002
Time:
18:34:27
Comments: Doberman Temperament
I guess I directed my first question in the wrong direction but thank you to
Judy Doniere for the great information she provided about my 2 year old bitch
possibly going into heat. I have absolutely no intentions of breeding my Dobe.
She is getting spayed next week. I have had her about 6 weeks and got her from
some very good friends. She is already very loyal and protective of me and our
home. Overall, she has a very sweet temperament.
My concern is this: my Aunt was visiting for the weekend and had sat in the floor. My Dobe came over and laid beside my feet. When my Aunt went to reach above her head to pet her, she growled at my Aunt. I was not sure if my Dobe was in heat and maybe that is what caused the irritability. I have now learned from Judy that she is not in heat.
Something similar happened last night. My Dobe was lying on the couch with my brother that she knows very well. My neighbor and her 12 year old boy came over. The boy went and sat in the middle of my brother and my Dobe Ellie who was now sitting up. She again growled at the boy when he went to pet her.
I'm wondering if anyone has any insight about this. I'm very concerned. I do not want a dog that may bite someone. Was she just letting them know that she did not want to be touched? Was she being territorial or is this basically the temperament of all Dobes?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
This behavior should not be acceptable nor is it, thank God, common in Dobermans. I'm not saying it doesn't occur, just that it isn't common.
Please get your Ellie to an obedience class in order to get some help for her as quickly as possible before she takes it upon herself to hurt someone in the mistaken assumption that it is okay to dominate people.
I have sent your query to a couple of breeders in the hopes that they too can offer some insight into your Ellie's improper behavior.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
This is a BIG problem you have. Yes, she WILL bite someone. You've got to act right now to end this. You didn't say what you did to her when she acted that way. Personally I'd have grabbed her, given her a firm shake and yelled at the top of my voice NO, NO!!! I'd have made her sit and have the person...young boy, aunt...whomever...get a cookie, or some tidbit and while SITTING coax her over and extend their hand (palm up) to her. Have them let her sniff the hand that originally held the cookie (the cookie should now be in their other hand behind their back). See if she'll come up and sniff. Then have them gently rub her UNDER her chin, never reaching over the top of her head. Once she accepts this, have that person say GOOD GIRL and then give her the cookie with the other hand. Try this several times during the visit. All the time, keep the bitch on a lead and if she tries to growl again, a quick firm yank on the lead and a loud NO!
I'd enrol her immediately in an Obedience class and let her know she's not "top dog" and that YOU are. I would never let her growl ever again at a person.
Is this something that has just started? Have you taken her to the Vets yet to see what caused the bleeding? If I recall you said she wasn't in season. Then why is she bleeding? That's not normal. She may have a problem. Check this out first. They can do a smear to find out if she's in season.
Find out from her previous owner when her last season was. If it was around 5-7 months ago, she most likely is coming in season. If it was just a couple months ago then something else is wrong. Has she had a temperament problem with previous owners?
This is NOT a normal temperament for any Doberman.
Q: from
Karen Kurowski
Date: 13
Sep 2002
Time:
17:13:10
Comments: Other
What is the average life expectancy of the Doberman?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
The average lifespan of a Doberman is about eight although some live to around ten and a few even up to fourteen or fifteen years of age.
Q: from
Sandra Carswell
Date: 10
Sep 2002
Time:
17:49:35
Comments: Congenital Cardiac Registry
What is this? We recently lost our 31/2 year old boy to DCM. In all
my Research I have not seen a reference to this.
"Congenital Cardiac Registry "
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
You can go here to see what this is all about:
http://www.offa.org/ofacard.html
Q: from Jenn
Date: 11
Sep 2002
Time:
05:30:39
Comments: Doberman Health
Hello. My Dobie just turned 12 wks old today and got his ears cropped yesterday.
There is no slowing him down. I'm worried to let him out too much for fear of
him making them bleed. There is no tape on the ear, just foam between the ears.
He shakes his head a lot, sometimes making the ears bleed again. Any
suggestions? Is it common not to have tape on the ears (just foam)? Help, first
time cropping experience.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
He won't hurt himself any more than he's willing to do tolerate so try not to worry too much about him. Within a week you'll be wondering why you were so concerned! <S>
The method the vet used is one of many and is fine. The foam will be taken off once the edges of his ears are healed and the ears will then be taped up.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
There are many ways to keep the ears up after cropping. Foam is one method, cups are another. I personally just glue the ears one over the other on top of the head after cropping as it's easier on the pup or pups when they're together.
The reason for no tape is you cannot tape over raw edges. The ears need to heal first before taping.
Ask your Vet or breeder if they would approve of another way such as the method I use (mentioned above) in order to put them up for now.
The ears will heal shortly so the head shaking should subside. The reason for the head shaking is mostly because he wants to shake off the foam on his head .
Please read the excellent ear care instructions complete with pictures available on this site.
Q: from
Tiffany Skidmore
Date: 10
Sep 2002
Time:
00:05:28
Comments: Doberman Temperament
I have a 2 year old female Dobie named Ellie. She
has not yet been
spayed. I plan on doing this in the next 2 weeks. I have only had her
about 1 month and got her from some friends. She is very sweet with a great
personality. My question is...how will I know she is going into heat? I live by
myself so it's only been her and I. She is already very protective and loyal to
me. I had a family member stay with me this weekend. My aunt was lying in the
floor and Ellie laid down about 3 feet away from her, right below my feet. My
aunt went to stroke her head and Ellie growled at her. I also can take her
outside in my front yard and Ellie will stay right beside me, but lately she has
been wondering off with her nose in the air and is a little irritable. Could she
be in heat or is this just the Dobies temperament? Thank you for your time.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Well to answer your first question, a bitch comes
into "heat" about every 6 mo. She will bleed from the vagina...just like
women. She will stay in
heat about 3 weeks. It is imperative you not allow her to stray or be
around any males at this time, otherwise you can expect maybe 12 puppies give or
take a few in 2 months.
You have no idea how much work it is taking care of the bitch and a litter of puppies. Puppies like all babies do just 3 things. Eat, sleep and poop. A litter of pups around 5 weeks can be very smelly and very difficult to keep clean more than 10 minutes at the most. When you wake up in the a.m. the aroma as well as the noise they make is devastating. Unless you have a top-notch, well-bred bitch and a planned breeding to the best possible male you can find and a reputation around the country for breeding outstanding Dobermans, you will find no one running up the path to your home to buy them.
We haven't even talked about costs....Thousands
of dollars!!!
So....GET HER SPAYED TOMORROW! Unless she's in season right now and then
you wait a couple weeks after she is done and have the surgery.
DO NOT allow her outside a fenced in yard unless you are walking her on a leash.
DO NOT walk her at all if she is in season! Not only is there a
possibility of the next door mutt breeding her while you are walking but you
will leave the scent for every dog within the next 10 miles to beat a path to
your door and hang around.
As to her temperament. Don't let anyone she doesn't know well play rough
or lay down with her. Its just not a good idea. She doesn't know
them and they don't know her so just play it safe. That's with any dog of
any breed.
If she's got her nose in the air and leaving your yard....don't let her. Keep
her fenced in or she may be hit by a car, stolen or get lost. Just use
everyday common sense.
Q: from
Marc Wouters
Date: 01
Sep 2002
Time:
16:17:11
Comments: Doberman Health
My pal is a 15 month old Dobe. He's very beautiful and his parents are both
champions. The problem is that about once a week he refuses to eat and starts
eating grass with the result of throwing up.
My friend is a quite tall male but weights only 33 kg and looking quite skinny. He was not selected to take part of our national championship because of his weight. Other Dobes in his class put 4 to 5 kg more on the scale.
We try to give him the best food available (400 gm 3 times a day) but once a week he lets us down by refusing all food. Our vet can't find a problem and told me not to worry about it. My question is how to deal with this situation and should I worry or not.
If you would like to see a picture of my pal please send me a request.
Many Thanks, Marc Wouters, Belgium
A: from
Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Marc, first of all, has your Vet checked for
Worms, Coccidia, Giardia or any problem that might be medical?
If he is otherwise healthy, I'd start force feeding him. He will never be
in show condition if he doesn't develop a rib spring and muscle tone. I
would start with soaking a good Kibble in hot water and letting it sit until it
becomes mushy when squeezed in your hand. Put papers on the floor and have
the dog sit on them. Have it next to a counter so you can have easy access
to the food. Many people like to make balls or bullets ahead of time.
I'd start out with 2 cups of Kibble at first. Do this am. and pm.
Have the dog sit facing to the right (if you are
right handed) stand to his
right side. Take your hand over top of his muzzle and with your middle
finger, place it right behind the canine tooth on top and his mouth with
drop open a little. Now with your right hand, take ball and open mouth
wide with head looking up a ceiling, place the ball to the back of his mouth
while pressing down and out a little on the tongue and placing ball as far back
in the mouth as possible. When you release the tongue, it will slide the
ball down his throat. Hold his mouth shut and muzzle still up. Watch
for ball to slide down by looking at outside of his throat. Once you see
it go down, repeat procedure until all food is given. Once you're
finished, show him your happy and say that's a boy, good boy etc. Give him
a small dog cookie after. Keep him occupied for a little while in the
house. Don't let him outside or an opportunity to vomit up the food.
Repeat at night.
Once he's eating 4 cups per day for about 3 or 4
days, increase the amount of food from 2 cups to 3 at each meal. If he's
doing well for a couple weeks, it might not hurt to increase another cup per
meal. No more than 8 cups per day. Limit his exercise to practically
none while doing this until you get his weight back to normal. He should
be up to 80 lbs in a few weeks by this. Depending on size & bone, will
determine his ultimate show weight. Many dogs of 28 inches weigh between 80 and
85 lbs.
Hope this helps.
Q: from
Care Hall
Date: 30
Aug 2002
Time:
01:51:31
Comments: Other
I have a red Dobe who is almost 2 years old. I would like to find a stud
for her. She is a 10th degree show dog, both mother and father have placed
1st numerous times. If you know of any studs please let me know.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Sorry, we don't do that sort of thing on this education site. If I were you I'd go to some dog shows and find some breeders that can evaluate your bitch for you.
Please make sure she is health tested also before you breed. You can do hip and elbow OFA, Cardio Echo and EKG, Thyroid and CERF to name just a few test that should be done prior to breeding.
Q: from
Alex
Date: 30
Aug 2002
Time:
01:41:40
Comments: Other (Getting a puppy)
Hi. I'm from Toronto, Canada. I'm having a very hard time finding the puppy I
want. Show, Obedience, Red, Male, American bloodlines. It's been three months
since I started looking seriously.
I've read all available books in chapters/Indigo. I've surfed the net here and in Russia. I went to the shows and spoke to breeders there. I've made a questionnaire for breeders and have sent it twenty letters via E-Mail to every Ontario breeder (except 3 that had no e-mail) Six replied, three filled it out. Everybody claims to have health, temperament, EUROPEAN bloodlines, etc. but the quality that I've seen leaves a lot to be desired. It seem money is what's important. The only dog that I have found so far is in Chicago area which is 1000km away. Can you please help me? thank you.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Red males are not that hard to find. You
state you've sent breeders
questionnaires...have you sent your qualifications to them as well? Items
such as your name, address, life style, experience showing Dobes, fenced yard or
not, personal references? Most breeders get lots of inquiries but respond
only to those that they know something about. We are not just going to
sell to anyone who calls or writes to us.
You could start with the Doberman Pinscher Club of Canada asking for reputable breeders in your area and go from there.
Q: from Emily
Date: 29
Aug 2002
Time:
22:10:30
Comments: Doberman Health
Would a capped elbow be considered a fault in the show ring or a blemish?. Could
a dog with a capped elbow be shown successfully? Thanks!
A: from
Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
If you mean a hygroma of the elbow (where
fluid collects), no it's not a
fault but it doesn't look too good. If it's not too big and doesn't make
the gait look bad or interferes with movement, it can be shown. I see it
frequently when judging. Some I ignore and some make the dog look too bad
to ignore.
Why don't you wait until the dog is better or as
a last choice have it drained
and a steroid injected. Make sure you pad whatever the dog flops down on
as that is likely what is causing the problem.
Q: from
Tammy Williams
Date: 27
Aug 2002
Time:
13:05:05
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
Is it proper or improper for the owner of the stud dog to ask questions about
the health testing that has been done on a bitch? Do I have a right to
know?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
It is not only proper, it is essential. You have an inherent right to know. Ask to see test results and keep copies of the same for yourself.
Q: from
Irene
Date:
26 Aug 2002
Time:
15:24:41
Comments: Doberman Health
At what age do you test for Thyroid function and is it a test any vet can do?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Most dogs contract hypothyroidism between the ages of 4 to 10. It appears to affect males and females equally, however spayed females are at a higher risk than unspayed females. Dogs should be tested at 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 years of age. Since this is an autoimmune disease, dogs can test negative at one age and develop the disease at a later time. If a dog does not acquire this disease by 5 years of age, odds are very good that it will remain negative.
Hypothyroidism is not easy to identify. Part of the problem is that chronic or temporary illness, reproductive hormones, drugs, obesity, and exposure of the dog to temperature extremes can affect the test. Sometimes the only sure test is to supplement with thyroid hormone; if symptoms subside, the diagnosis was accurate. Therefore, the best way to test for thyroid is to run complete thyroid profiles (e.g. T3, T4, free T3, free T4, T3 and T4 auto-antibodies, plus thyroglobulin auto-antibody and TSH where indicated) rather than just one or two analytes (e.g. T4, TSH, free T4). This is a bit more expensive but far more reliable for accurate diagnosis. This test can and should be run yearly.
The veterinarian draws the blood and sends it to one of several laboratories with the equipment for conducting the test. The blood sample should be taken when the dog is otherwise healthy, is not approaching or in a heat cycle, and is not taking pharmaceuticals such as steroids, non-steroidal anti-inflammatories, or anti-seizure drugs. The latest tests include measurement of two forms of the thyroid hormones T3 (triiodothyronine) and T4 (levothyroxine) and a search for antibodies that could indicate autoimmune thyroiditis, the genetic form of the disease. Interpretation of the numbers recorded is as important as the numbers themselves, for the relationship between the hormones is complex.
There are more than 50 different symptoms of hypothyroidism. Classical signs include chronic skin disease, hair loss, weight gain, lethargy and slow metabolism, although behavioral changes (aggression, hyperactivity, poor concentration, passivity, phobias, anxiety or neuromuscular events such as seizures), and many other signs of metabolic imbalances also can occur. This condition can mimic other disorders.
Q: from
Marsha Smith
Date: 25
Aug 2002
Time:
17:52:07
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
I just recently whelped my first litter of Dobermans May 7.2002. It was a
very large litter, 13 puppies! I still have three puppies remaining and my
question is: At what age do I need to separate them? They are getting VERY
rough with each other, all three of them have lesions all over their back and
neck area. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Separate them NOW! Actually, they should have been separated at 10 weeks.
You are not too late. Do things with them
individually daily. Things like
taking them for walks, play ball with them, etc. Feed them separately.
You can start training them to do just about anything and you should. Find
them their new homes as soon as you can.
Gastrointestinal motility disorders such as bilious vomiting syndrome are becoming a well recognized phenomenon in companion animals.
The treatment involves an accurate diagnosis and management of underlying disease conditions. Often, control of the underlying disease alone does not fully resolve the motility disorder and dietary and medical intervention become necessary.
Diet is key and should be chosen based on the knowledge that liquids tend to empty from the stomach faster than solids and carbohydrates pass faster than proteins and fat. Diets that are warmed and low in acidity should be fed frequently in small amounts to enhance transit. If motility disorders do not respond to diet alone, often therapy becomes critical.
Apparently drugs such as Tegaserod and Prucalopride appear to have positive effects on canine colonic motility, the latter particularly on the stimulation of gastric emptying. It has been documented that colon disorders also respond to ranitidine, nizatidine and possibly misoprostol.
Hi Tammy,
Tests that must be done before a dog is bred are:
Tests that should be done before a dog is bred are:
Additional tests that could also be done are:
Additionally a Brucellosis test can and should be done on both the dog and the bitch prior to breeding.
The reason a dog cannot or should not be bred before he is two years of age is largely for him to be old enough to have the hip x-rays done and the results on the tests back prior to breeding. OFA will not give a number or a grade to a dog until it is twenty-four months of age.
*** *** ***
A: from Bev Longuil
NOTE: About every 10 days or so I feed one whole chicken (cut into the various parts, of course) and he downs that in no time flat!!
*** *** ***
A: from Chris
I have 2 Dobermans at the present time. One is 4 1/2 years old and the other is 18 months old. They have both been on a BARF diet since they have come to live with me. I started with my last Doberman, who died from CAH 1 year ago this past Memorial Day. I switched when she was diagnosed and she lived 2 1/2 years after the biopsy. I couldn't imagine having to feed them dog food again. It seems to me now, that it's like saying "Eat at McDonald's they put vitamins in their food".
If you go to www.yahoogroups.com you can join a list called K9Nutrition. Lew Olson , the woman who owns the list, has a PhD in Natural Nutrition.
*** *** ***
A: from Janice Myers
I have fed nothing but a Natural, Raw, Un-Processed diet to my dogs and have done so for many, many years. I have also given free seminars on diet and holistic care to kennel clubs. I do the article called "In Search Of Health And Longevity" for the Doberman Pinscher Annual and the article has been in the last two books. I have done interviews with Dog Fancy , etc. I do not feed Kibble to my dogs but also do not feed a meal of just bones. I feed meat, veggies, fruits and grains. I do not over vaccinate either and use holistic care when needed. In the 2000 issue of "In Search of Health And Longevity" "I attribute the health of my dogs not only to genetics, environment and the use of alternative medicine but the type of food they eat." I think that when a 10 year old can sire a litter , that speaks for the health of the dog.
*** *** ***
A: from Patricia Connolly
I feed my dogs the raw diet and they do fantastic. I don't just throw them a raw chicken leg. I buy the meat from a place close to me that was originally a turkey farm. They now get the meat in from where ever. They get the whole carcass ,cut it up and supply it to top area restaurants and hospital facilities and also to the public. I buy the meat ,chicken, beef with organ meats, lamb, turkey all with ground bone & veggies. I can also get emu, buffalo, rabbit,& salmon. I alternate adding in the am with tablespoons of cottage cheese, yoghurt, soft boiled egg with shell mashed in food, sardines or mackerel. At night I ground up an apple in each dogs food. They get one Vitamin E & C pet tab and 5 cc EFA-Z oil (essential fatty acids and minerals, etc)
Harly gets pumpkin when I am trying to get her weight down. There are no calories but it fills her up if that is possible. The company is Oma's distributed by Miller foods. all natural no preservatives.
Harly's labor and delivery was so much easier this time and she is only 3-4 lbs over her show weight. She is running around playing with Bailey like a kid. Last time she whelped I could not get her weight off. She blew her coat this time but it is coming in nice and dark.
I also give them the raw marrow & knuckle bones to chew on. They love them and their teeth are nice and white
*** *** ***
This FAQ is NOT a bible!
The BARF diet, like life, has many different
successful routes. I have tried to detail some of the basic questions that you
may have which will hopefully get you onto the BARF track.
People have different ideas about BARF and my suggestion if you become confused,
is NOT to go back to commercial foods, but start thinking about what is best for
your dog (or cat).
Start with the basics - raw chicken bones - carcasses, wings, necks. For the
majority of BARF'ers - that is the base of the majority of their dogs meals.
However, if chicken is not available readily, use what is available locally -
raw meaty - lamb, beef, venison, duck, rabbit, kangaroo, pig, raw whole fish.
You get the picture.
Please note: Dogs do not have the digestive system to cope with grains. Grains
are one of the biggest sources of allergies in dogs. Grains make up the majority
of dog food company food sources. Many people find when they switch to an all
natural diet, the allergies their dogs had disappear. This is common.
Not only is BARF cheaper to feed than commercial dog foods, but there are
enormous savings to be made by not having all those vet visits to fix your dogs'
allergies. Are you asking yourself yet, "why hasn't my vet recommended this?"
Yes, I would ask that of them too. Unfortunately most vets receive NO education
at university on dog diet other than what the commercial dog food company reps
tell them! (yes, this is the education they PAY to get - unbelievable. Luckily,
some universities are realizing this mistake and are making amends).
What is BARF?
BARF - Bones and Raw Food - it refers to a type of diet fed to dogs (and cats)
which totally excludes all commercial dog foods.
Why should I feed a BARF diet?
A BARF diet provides a range of benefits that commercial dog diets can never
hope to even closely match.
These benefits include:
1. no doggy odor
2. naturally cleans teeth - no need for toothbrushes, de-scaling jobs, or gum
disease
3. the time it takes for a dog to chew a raw meaty bones give their stomach
adequate time to get the acids moving
4. much less stools produced - and they are firm, and turn chalky after a couple
of days
5. decreased or non-existent vet bills (your dogs are healthier!)
6. less cost for dog food - commercial dog foods are ludicrously expensive
7. mirrors what a dog would be getting in the wild - and certainly even the
modern day dog has a digestive tract exactly the same as a wolf
8. puppies develop at a more appropriate rate - and quick growth spurts are
avoided. A GOOD breeder will want to stop fast growth in any pup
9. the ripping and chewing involved in eating raw meaty bones develops the jaw,
neck, and shoulder muscles of the dog. Commercial dog foods will never assist in
this important muscle development.
What people have reported:
People who have switched their dogs to BARF from commercial dog foods have found
the following:
* dogs who were previously un-energetic, and sluggish become completely new dogs
once the BARF feeding begins
* allergies their dogs previously had on commercial foods, disappear once they
start with BARF
* arthritis has significantly reduced or disappeared in some dogs switched to
BARF
* better weight control
* no more doggy odor!
* their dogs are living longer on BARF than what their other dogs previously had
survived on commercial dog foods
* that their bitches managed their pregnancies better
* better weight and survival figures in puppies
Why is commercial dog food not good for my dog?
There are a range of problems with commercial dog foods. I will provide some
links below, but in summary:
1. a dog's food should never be cooked. It should be fed in a raw natural state
like nature intended. Cooking a dog's food ruins most of the nutritional value.
2. dogs should have access to raw meaty bones. These clean their teeth, work and
develop their neck and jaw muscles, and the chewing action prepares their
stomach for the incoming food mass. Chewing bones also slows down the eating
process considerably, making it far harder for a dog to over eat.
3. dog foods have as their main ingredient cereals - the main ingredient your
dog should be eating is raw meaty bones. And it is these very cereals that cause
a range of problems such as allergies.
4. commercial dog foods are laden with preservatives, colors (dyes), and salt.
They have additives to make the food taste better so that the dogs will overeat.
5. the vast majority of commercial dog foods have far too much carbohydrates in
them. High levels of carbohydrates are linked to over-eating, diabetes, weight
gain, and numerous other problems. Dogs should eat a diet with only a small
amount of carbs.
Well then, why do so many people still feed their dogs commercial dog foods?
Yes, it confuses me too! However, commercial dog food companies have got the
advertising part down amazingly well. They have entered the market at every
point. With some companies, breeders and vets get major discounts and kick-backs
for selling their product. They sponsor dog shows, they advertise in dog
magazines, they get high profile people (including vets) to talk about their
product.
And most importantly, their advertising campaigns are slick, and tend to make
people feel guilty if they feed any other way.
And people are suckers for good advertising.
Let me make this very clear to you, I make no money from recommending BARF. As a
breeder of dogs I could make a small fortune by letting my dogs be in dog food
commercials, and by selling on commercial dog foods.
I only recommend BARF because I want your dogs to
be getting the diet that will make them the healthiest that they can possibly
be.
But how will I know how much to feed my dog?
You feed your dog based on their energy requirements. It will differ for how
much work your dog does, and what their metabolism is like.
As a rough guide, my adult male boxer (neutered) will eat one chicken carcass a
day as the base of his meal, and then some other bits and pieces. The same goes
for my Portuguese Water Dogs.
My toy poodle will have three chicken necks a day (or more if he's been a bit active) as the base for his meal.
Look at your dogs regularly - if they are looking a bit porky, then cut down on the fat in their diet. If they look a bit thin, then, an extra half a chicken carcass in the diet for a few days may be the solution.
It's not hard to do, and when you get into a
routine, it's darn easy. Trust me!
But aren't chicken bones dangerous?!!!
This is one of the biggest myths of all time! Raw chicken bones are fantastic
for your dog. They are soft enough so that they bend easily, and break well for
the dog to digest.
On the other hand, cooked chicken bones can be a problem, and I recommend that
you DON'T feed COOKED chicken bones.
So could a raw chicken bone kill a dog? Well I guess that anything is possible.
Certainly scientifically you can't prove a negative argument. However what we do
know is that dogs have died from inhaling kibble the wrong way and choking and
suffocating to death.
Feeding your dog is about management of risk. No matter which path you decide to
take there is always risk. There is always someone who will criticize your
decision. However you, and only you can decide what is best for your dogs. Weigh
up all the benefits and risks. Do your own analysis. Do your research. Do what
will have the greatest overall benefit for your dog.
My dog tends to inhale food!???
This is common with some dogs who have been raised on commercial food who don't
actually ever learn to chew.
You need to be careful with all dogs regardless of what they eat during their
meal times. I've heard of dogs choking and dying on kibble, and dogs choking on
raw meaty bones. - Just like I have heard of humans who have choked and died on
a small piece of sausage or cheese.
You should supervise all meal times.
If a dog is scarfing down their food, I feed them by hand, in an isolated
environment, until they learn how to chew. Chewing is critical for a dog. And
literally some dogs need to figure it out as adults how to do it. Sometimes I
will hold one end of the chicken wing and not let them swallow it until they
have chewed it a bit. Puppies that I have brought up feeding raw meaty bones
from an early age never seem to have these sort of issues. But you never can
tell.
Some dogs will try and inhale even large meaty bones, so you really need to work
with these guys carefully. They should eventually work it out.
Be also careful of the greedy guts who thinks s/he will be starving unless food
is consumed in great quantities immediately. Most dogs will learn eventually,
but others, well, it may take a long time.
So in summary, monitor meal times, and be sure to watch out for the greedy guts
- and manage them carefully.
But what about bacteria on raw chicken?
So many good questions!
Ok, there is bacteria everywhere. Dogs have an amazing immunity system
specifically designed to eat all manner of bacteria. And a healthy BARF fed dog
manages those bacteria without a problem.
E-coli, salmonella, etc are found on raw chicken, but those nasties are also
found in your fridge, in your sink, on your floor, in your backyard, in your
car, on the footpath, down at the park, and perhaps in your bed! Interestingly,
the only cases I have heard of dogs dying from e-coli or salmonella, were dogs
fed commercial dog foods.
The most important thing is to wash your hands thoroughly after feeding your
dogs, and even after cutting up meat for your own meals. Our digestive systems
are not quite as robust as our dogs, so we must protect ourselves.
I use a spray bottle containing white vinegar which I spray about when I need
some disinfecting.
I have been feeding BARF for several years, and have yet to have a problem with
bacterial infections with my dogs. They are so darn healthy, they are never at
the vets! Well, except for when I got them micro-chipped.
But my vet doesn't think that BARF is any good Then your vet needs some serious
re-educating!
Keep in mind that vets are told very little about dog diet at university. In
fact, in some universities, reps from the dog food companies, come and do
presentations on dog diet, as part of the curriculum. Many vets get their
education on dog diet by dog food reps.
And many vets make a lot of money by retailing dog foods.
If you have a vet that doesn't want to be re-educated, or will not discuss
options, then that is a very sad state of affairs. Here's hoping you can find a
better vet.
Given this age of the internet, there is absolutely no excuse for vets not to be
educated on all feeding options. And there are plenty of vets on the internet
who would gladly converse with other vets about BARF. You found this page, why
can't they?!!
What do you feed your dogs, Jane?
Great question! These are the things my dogs eat:
I have actually changed the diet of a bitch I
obtained, who was pregnant, to BARF when she was pregnant. I was certainly not
worried about any cross over issues. For her, the potential damage of commercial
foods to her and her puppies was my main concern. I couldn't get her onto BARF
quick enough!
Mind you, she did eat one heck of a lot! So for pregnant and nursing bitches you
will find that they need more food to cope with the demands of the little guys!
And sometimes, a pregnant bitch will not want to eat a lot. You let your bitch
be the judge. She knows her needs.
Can I feed puppies on BARF?
You most certainly can. And the good news is that unlike the commercial dog
foods who recommend a confusing range of foods for different age groups, BARF
fed dogs are fed the same regardless of age.
Of course, you won't want to feed that little puppy huge marrow bones! So, use
common sense in your feeding.
How do I learn more?
There are several good books you can purchase:
Grow Your Pups with Bone - Dr Ian Billinghurst
(no grains, so dairy is chief difference)
Your 4 to 5 month old puppy may very well be too old to crop but if it has been done you will most likely have to commit yourself to do a lot of taping.
Where do you live? Maybe we can refer you to a ear cropping specialist close to where you live. This person can at least see your puppy and further direct you for the best thing to do for your puppy.
I think that you need professional advice on this question.
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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Puppies are normally cropped at 7 to 10 weeks of age. It's much easier to get the ears to stand as they are not so heavy and long at that age. It's possible to crop ears at the age your puppy is but I'd recommend a short crop as it will require lots of taping if the ears are ever to stand.
If this is a non-show pup, I'd leave them as they
are. I don't know of any health problems that would occur if the dog is
kept clean. A great many dogs have uncropped ears and do fine. All
of the European dogs are uncropped. You might rethink this operation as it
is very hard on a dog of
that age.
The normal gestation periods for a Doberman is 63 days. Have you done all the necessary health testing and are you aware that there are an awful loot of Dobermans in Rescue in the States already? Please don't add to this problem just because you girl is in great shape or your cousin wants a puppy.
I would like to ask where do you live as I feel that you need to be referred to a specialist or to the University of Guelph (a vet school in Ontario, Canada) or the University of Saskatchewan (a teaching hospital in Saskatchewan), depending on where you are located.
*** *** ***
A: from Lorna O'Connor
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Since I don't know the breeding on you dog it's possible that the pup has inherited this. However, you didn't mention if the third eyelid was red or inflamed which would possibly indicate an allergy.
I take it she's not on any medication that might contain an antihistamine or tranquilizer. These certainly make the third eyelid come up covering part of the eye.
She may just have this as a fault. Many years ago, and possibly it may still occur, dogs of many breeds had noticeable third eyelids that had to be surgically removed. AKC put a ban on that consequently if it's done now, you don't hear about it.
If she's fine otherwise, I'd not worry as to her health. As to showing her, and not seeing her for myself, I'd try and see if the Judge is bothered by it. As a judge myself I might ignore it if it isn't too serious. There is nothing in the AKC standard about it, but that doesn't mean a judge won't find fault with it. Try it and see what happens, LOL.
*** *** ***
A: from Dr. Darcy Rae, DVM, Kelowna, BC, Canada
Sorry, Judy, but I'm not much help here. If these guys have already taken her to the vets at the critical care group, they have done the best they can for that area.
The only other suggestion I would make would be to take the dog to a Vet Teaching Hospital to get the full "team-of-experts" approach (e.g.-Washington State at Pullman or University of Saskatchewan in Saskatoon).
The following may be some helpful links:
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Contact Dr. Davida Roof, DVM. Davida lives in Columbia S.C. and can give you that information.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Q: from Paul
Date:
24 Jul 2002
Comments: Ear Cropping
I bought a Dobe pup from someone and he has not been cropped. He is 13 weeks
old. Does it hurt them much to have it done and is it too late?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
It certainly does hurt them just as any surgery hurts any being. I'm sorry but cropping is not a matter to be taken lightly. You can still crop your puppy if you do it soon but please be sure to have an accomplished, reputable veterinarian crop him and train you how to do the aftercare of the ears properly. If you are going to put him through the surgery at least make certain that you are dedicated enough to guarantee that his ears end up beautiful.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
While 13 weeks is later than we now do our pups, a good Vet can do a nice crop at that age. If it's not a show pup I'd suggest a shorter crop as it will be easier to get the ears to stand.
Make sure the Vet is VERY experienced in cropping Dobermans.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA
You can get it done but you had better hurry. It looks like that you live in Tennessee. You could try Dr. Patty Edwards, DVM, in the Atlanta, Georgia area. Her email address is dobevet@aol.com.
Q:
from Irene
Date: 24
Jul 2002
Comments: Dog panties
Are there any dog panties made for a Doberman's shape for when they are in heat?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Contact Mrs. Linda Marquis at chiens@prodigy.net. Linda makes wonderful Doberman Panties that "fit." I bought a couple last year at the National and they were great.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA
Bob and Gloria Letsinger at 408-736-5252 sell this item plus a lot of other items or you could send a note to Bob Letsinger at Sunnyhl@aol.com and ask if he has a website with pictures. Bob is "the man" in N. California for Doberman show leads and other supplies.
I am sure that there are others but I only know of Bob and Gloria. They will ship and you can order over the phone. They will be able to help you with the measuring and what have you.
Q: from
Julianne Haugen
Date: 22
Jul 2002
Comments: Lazy ear
I have a 12 month male with show cut ear cropping. His ears have done
reasonably well standing but periodically his left ear will tend to droop.
I immediately re-tape both ears and leave for 2-3 days. His female
littermate has had no problems and has not needed re-taping since she was 6
months. Am I fighting a loosing battle with my male or will this get
better as he matures? Neither are on any supplements per our vet's advice
as we lost our last girl to CVI. I have noticed his ear tends to droop
when he is hot, sleepy, or very excited. Thanks for any advice.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
It wouldn't hurt to keep taping them as needed but if he uses them most of the time and he is over 6 months I'd leave them alone. Most will stand when they mature if they are standing except for a few times like you mention.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA
Try taping for a while longer but leave him up in the tapes for longer than 2 or 3 days. When you remove the tape, re-tape the ears (both of them) the moment that they fall or are not perfect.
There are things that a vet can do to get them standing but you need a vet that is really experienced with ear cropping. Are you from Northern California? If you are in that area we could refer you to a couple of experienced vets or breeders for help.
Q: from Julianne Haugen
Date: 18
Jul 2002
Comments: Other
Could someone please explain what the abbreviation OFEL27 on my dog's sire's
papers stand for?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA
I looked at one of my dogs' papers and that number is for an OFA elbow x-ray. His sire has that number and an OFA hip number. OFEL stands for Orthopedic Foundation Elbow.
Q: from OP Davis
Date: 18
Jul 2002
Comments: Other
I am considering buying a male who is a vWD carrier. Will I be able to breed him
in the future? Should I buy him?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA
Please read the article on VWD that can be found at several sites including http://www.equinoxca.com/explainvwd.html for an in-depth explanation about vWD in the Doberman. This dog can be bred to a clear or even a carrier, but he must meet a lot of other criteria in order to to be acceptable for breeding as well. Some of this can't/won't be determined until later on: i.e.: other health testing, temperament and his conformation.
So much should be taken into consideration when making a the decision to breed a given Doberman.
I have an American Champion, vWD Clear Doberman that may not ever be bred unless the "right" female is found for him.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
A vWD Carrier is not the end of the world. If the dog is a top quality animal (show quality), and someone who has a Clear bitch (preferably ) would breed to him you wouldn't get any pups that were other than Clear or Carrier... you would get no Affecteds. A Carrier to Carrier would result in some of each. I definitely would not breed a Carrier to an Affected though. Remember, there are other things as or even more important to consider when breeding.
Q: from Diane
Evanosky
Date: 18
Jul 2002
Comments: Other
I would like more info on the vWd DNA test: Where is it available? What is
involved?
A: from
Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
You can go to
www.vetgen.com/ for information regarding this
query.
Q: from Nikki
Date: 18
Jul 2002
Comments: Doberman Pinschers
Any Dobes for sale?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Sorry but we do not sell animals through
this site.
Q: from Anita Bleakey
Date:
18 Jul 2002
Comments: Grading the Doberman Puppy
How do you grade a Doberman? What do I look for?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA & Judy
Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Please go to the article Standing In Motion that is on this site. If you feel you need more after that we are here. You should also go and read our Breed Standard and Judy Doniere's article about the standard. There are many excellent pages on this site that will help you with this issue.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I think you'd be better off getting help from an experienced show breeder/handler in your area. You have to be familiar with not only the standard of the Doberman but how it relates in terms of an 8 wk. old puppy. Pups go through many stages. You need to know the background of the sire and dam to know what things may or may not change.
Things that you cannot tell are size and teeth as they aren't finished development before the pup is from 5 1/2 mo. to 12 months of age.
Angulation doesn't change but you have to know what you are looking at to tell correctly.
Eye color changes slightly.
For someone new, it would not be possible to grade a litter successfully without the assistance of a mentor I'm afraid.
Q: from Michael
Date: 12
Jul 2002
Comments: ear flopping
I have an 8 month old Doberman whose ears were cropped at about 12 weeks. His
ears were standing perfectly until about a week ago when the right ear began to
flop. This happens mostly at home or in the yard. Sometimes he gets it to stand,
but if he barks or jumps up the ear will usually flop. Is this normal?
Will he out grow this? Please help. Thank you.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
If the ears have been standing normally until now it very well may be a temporary thing. I wouldn't do anything if the ears stand most of the time. If he walks around all day and one is hanging down then I'd take 2" tape and hold the ear straight up and tape it up. No plugs. Leave it on for about 4 days. If they stand after that, fine, if not then re-tape.
Q: from Emily
Date:
15 Jul 2002
Comments: Ear tips falling in
Hi!,
I have a 5 month old female Dobe whose ear tips fall in a few day's after being
out of tapes. The ears don't fall to the outside but the tips seem to want to
touch. What have I done wrong?!. Thanks so much!
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
From what I'm reading it sounds like the ears touch each other when she is alert? If this is so, I'm thinking she has "pockets" in the base of her ears where it joins the forehead. If so, you have to do something right now or they'll stay for good.
What I've used lately is taking a packing "popcorn" (the ones that are about one inch in length ... possibly a little longer ... and reverse tape it like you would a plug for ears. Pull the ear straight up, and look on the outside of the ear for the dimple which is about 1/2 inch from the head on the uncropped side. Stick the "popcorn" inside the dimple (on inside of ear) until the dimple is forced out and put a strip of tape around the ear holding the taped popcorn in place. Leave this up for 5 days, take down and see how ears look. If they go back to the same, repeat procedure as many times as it takes to straighten out ear. Do not tape up much higher than the popcorn. Ears should look straight. Don't use brace between ears. If done correctly, they should stand straight.
Q: from Rhonda Lawrence
Date: 13 Jul 2002
Comments: Breeding The Doberman
I am a practiced breeder of Dachshunds and I am breeding my Dobe for the first time. How big should the whelping box be? How big will the babies be when born? How much external heat (they are bigger than the dachsies) is needed, if any? What was the "Battaglia" type of socialization referred to in one of your answers to another person's question. (I usually carry the babies around in a bib pocket, but these guys are going to be too big.) You mentioned that you feed littermates separately towards the end. How do you do that, do you not leave food out and available all the time?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA and Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Please refer to our many great articles on Breeding and raising puppies by noted Doberman breeders http://www.dpca-breedered.com/ as well as Carmen Battaglia's article on Puppy Stimulation, http://www.dpca-breedered.com/battneurostimulation.htm in the Breeders Education site you wrote to us and about the whelping box http://www.dpca-breedered.com/whelpingbox.htm.
The babies can range from 9 ounces to 22 ounces at birth and more depending on the sire and dam of course. Like all puppies they have no body temperature of their own for the first few weeks so must be kept warm.
Littermates are fed separately simply because some of the smaller pups would not get the right amount of food if fed together and others would get too much. As you said, they are not dachsies. <S>.
Hopefully Marj Brooks who is a Doberman and A Dachsund breeder will be able to offer you some advice when she returns from the shows.
If your dog is just being stubborn and aggressive towards other dogs, I'd say it's adolescence and he needs good formal Obedience training. HOWEVER, if he's suddenly turning on you and growling or snapping and this is a sudden change, he might have Rage Syndrome. This is a form of epilepsy or a possible brain tumor causing it. The dog can be loving and trustworthy one minute and can instantly change to a dog you don't know. They don't seem to know what they are doing. Many times the dog with be sleeping and suddenly wake up and growl or attack someone or something. Within several minutes they seem to be very remorseful and not understand what's going on. If this is the case, they don't get over it and must be humanely put down. If it's the former, I'd see a good obedience trainer for an evaluation and start classes immediately.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
You can go to
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/wolfepack/foodcht3.html to see what brands are the
best. I myself prefer to feed Eagle Pack. The food you feed is almost a matter
of personal preference however.
Q: from Denise Buskirk
Date: 04
Jun 2002
Comments: house breaking a three year old male
I was wondering if there is a product you can buy to spray on walls and
furniture to keep a male dog from wetting on them. I have just rescued a male
Doberman who is 3 years old and he a wonderful dog. He just has a bad habit of
peeing on everything. Is there something I can do to stop this nasty habit? He
was kept in a cage outside all the time and was never allowed in the house
and I want him in the house with us. Can someone help?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I would go back to the way you house break a puppy. Crate him, let him out several times a day. WATCH him like a hawk. If you see him smelling something yell at him and say a firm NO, then let him out. He's really marking his territory but since he's been there some time, it's now become a habit.
You will have to clean the spots with something that doesn't allow him to smell where he's gone before. Use nothing with ammonia in it as that is what he will be smelling from his own urinating.
You can break this habit but I'd not let him out of your sight for several weeks.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Gloria Lettsinger of Sunnyhill Design makes a belt for males to wear in the house that you could purchase until you get him trained. Her phone number is: 408-736-5252. Good luck.
Q: from
Elaine Hopkins
Date: 04
Jun 2002
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
I know this was discussed recently, but I have a friend who says that breeding a
clear (vWD) to an affected will only produce all carriers. I know I read
somewhere that it's 50% Carrier, 25% clear and 25% affected. She still
disagrees. Please give me a web site where I can give her the information.
Thanks.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Here you go
http://www.vetgen.com/interp.html
Q: From
Denise Buskirk
Date: 27
May 2002
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
Can you breed father and daughter and still get papers?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Yes, if the father and the daughter are registered with the AKC. I am assuming that your are talking about the American Kennel Club. I don't know about the other registries.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Yes you can with the Canadian Kennel Club as well.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Yes you can breed father and daughter. My question is why? You must know the genetic background of the dogs in question so you don't double up on faults. Very few top breeders do this until they have been breeding for generations and know what is lurking in those recessive genes. My advice...don't.
AKC will register any litters when both parents are registered.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
You may do whatever you personally like but I would have to suggest that you go for a medium length crop. They will still stand easily and match and balance the dog better. I personally don't care for the super long crop either. I crop mine to a medium length.
Q: From
Lisa Daniels
Date: 26
May 2002
Comments: Locating a puppy for stud use (long)
I posted a question a while back about breeding to produce only Fawns for the
purpose of raising dogs to be trained as service dogs. As per the wonderful
advice I was given I have done a lot of research and study into color genetics
and Dilution Alopecia. I have learned a great deal more than I ever expected ...
mainly that there is a simple microscopic exam that can be done to the hair
follicles to determine if the pup in question will have alopecia problems or is
a carrier or not.
My female has been checked by this method and is negative for the alopecia
traits. I had her conformation evaluated by a retired show judge who said she
was a very good example of the breed, especially being heavy boned and the
proper angle of her shoulders. He indicated that these were two critical areas
of conformation that he feels are being overlooked more and more lately. I
personally have no desire to show her but it is good to know that she would do
well with the right handler. I am however working with her in Obedience and will
begin training service behaviors later. I have been involved in many different
facets of dog training all my life but this is my first attempt at Obedience
competition. I have high expectations of her and she is meeting them all just
fine so far.
As you may recall, the reason behind my original question about breeding to
produce fawns was because of my plans for training assistance Dobermans. I am
ready to start looking for a fawn male that would be a good stud for my female
later on, (and later a couple more fawn females). I want to get him as a pup and
raise and train him myself. I plan to compete in Obedience with him, but not
conformation, but he should be a possible contender physically. The temperament
needed for service dogs is much softer than what is sought after for show dogs
so I would not be taking a dog out of the ring. I am looking for a good show
breeder who may have or expects to have a fawn male in the next year or so that
may meet my needs. I have looked thru the breeder registry, but since I am
looking specifically for a fawn, I have wasted a lot of effort and phone bills.
Could someone please help to spread the word about the type of dog I am looking
for. I know many show breeders breed away from the dilutes, but there are some
out there who adore them as much as the blacks. I just do not know how to find
them. Please help me or give me guidance of who to contact.
There is a very large rehabilitation / residential center for physically
challenged person in my town. I have spoken with the director about the need for
service dogs for some of her clients. She is very excited and encouraging about
my desire to help these individuals by providing service dogs. She too is very
fond of the Doberman and agrees with my desire to use fawns.
Any assistance in this search is greatly appreciated.
A: From Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
You could try Pat Blenkey of Wrath-Liberator
Dobes in Canada, Ann Ramsbottom-White of Cambria Dobes, Monica Grainger-Blue of
Cresthill Dobes in the States and another that comes to mind is Betty Clark of
Ravenswood Kennels in the States.
Q:
From Frank Wetenkamp
Date: 26
May 2002
Comments: Doberman Health
We love our female Doberman, but she suffers from incontinence and our vet
hasn't found a cure. We would hate to have to part with her but our carpets are
constantly being stained. What can we do?
A: From
Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
Comments: Doberman Health
The problem with your bitch can be one of two things - first behavior or second,
a health issue. Each has it's own method for correction or determent.
If you would like to email me directly we can discuss the possibilities. I
am not a vet but I would be curious is certain tests were run by your vet and
what types of medications he/she has prescribed.
Yes I would be interested in hearing your thoughts. She is skittish and fears loud noises, oddly shaped objects, etc., so it may be that her incontinence is behavioral, however it seems to happen mostly when she is resting or sleeping.
We don't keep her in a crate, although we have thought that at least that way we could contain the problem. But we really love sitting with her while watching TV or reading a book. Obviously the problem is that she relaxes and when she gets up there is often (not always) a spot left behind. How can I contact you?
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
There are several medications most Vet's know of
that take care of incontinent bitches. One of the best was recently
removed from the market but many Vets still have supplies. It's name is
Phenopropanolemine (sp). It is very good and doesn't seem to cause any ill
effects when used as
directed. Ask another Vet if he/she might still have any. It is very
inexpensive.
Another thing to use is baby diapers. Not too charming to look at, but does keep the carpets clean.
Comments: Doberman Health
My Doberman is constantly biting on his fifth nail (we call it wolfsclaw).
What could be the reason for this behavior. It's a one year old male. Greetings
from Belgium
A: From Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
Comments: Doberman Health
I would recommend that you have the dew claw examined by a veterinarian as there may be an infection going on with it. If it checks out okay then it could be a habit thing like sucking a blanket.
You could also try wrapping it with vet wrap for a while and see if he leaves it alone and forgets about it.
I am not sure but you may be able to
have it removed even though he's older...that would also be something you should
check with a veterinarian about.
Q: from T. Fujiu
Date: 10
May 2002
Comments: Other
Thank you very much for your prompt reply. Now I know not to give up. I live in
Tokyo, Japan and there are relatively few veterinarians who have experience in
ear cropping. I will try the tampax method. My Dobe's ears are rather soft and
thin. I think he has a show dog cut, somewhat longer than normally pets are
given. I have no intention of competing so it is unfortunate that we must
continue taping. He doesn't fancy this and warmer, humid weather makes it worse.
A: Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Good for you. The fact that he isn't competing makes absolutely no difference. If he went through the rigors of a crop and of taping for that long you owe it to him not to give up. Thinner ear leather makes it a tad more difficult to get the ears up but trust me, chances are they will go up with time....you're reaching the end of this arduous process. Hang in there!
Where exactly does his ear break when it does? At the base, at the middle, the tip, where?
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
There is an article on the web site for taping ears. You just have to keep at it and trust me, I know it is a drag. You will be happy in the end. There are lots of Doberman fanciers in Japan. I wonder what they do. They must know of a vet. I have an article that I got off of this web page. It is called Older Puppies...Longer ears, advanced taping by Carol Petruzzo. I found it on ears12.htm If you can't get it, I can try to get our webmaster to send it to you. I don't know how, but we will figure it out. Judy has a good one on the beginning, young puppy taping too, complete with pictures. I gave the articles out with my last litter.
*** *** ***
A: from T.Fujiu
Thank you for the support. I will keep trying. He is a beautiful dog and
deserves to look his best. I have seen the site on older puppy ear taping and
have tried it recently. It doesn't seem to bother him as much.
I also own a male German shepherd and a female Doberman, both are adult dogs. Sometimes they rough play and I think that may mess up the taping. The female Dobe came to me as an adult and her ears were already cropped so this is my first experience going through the ordeal. It's a learning experience.
A: from Judy Bohnert & Marj Brooks
I have been pondering a concern that I have had for days now and could not live with myself if anything bad were to happen. I just want to you be fully aware that may very well be sitting on a potential powder keg. Dobermans are dog fighters and in fact insist on being the king -- I sincerely feel that your two males will likely fight when they are older, therefore resulting in some pretty serious damage to one or the other or both. Are you willing to risk this?
Q: from T.Fujiu
Date:
08 May 2002
Comments: Other
My Doberman is an 8 month old male. He had his ears
cropped when he was about 4 months. The ears are a relatively long-cut and we
have been taping religiously, however the ears are very soft and refuse to stand
properly. In normal situations, his ear is flopping outwards and he looks like
he is going to take flight. What should be done. Please help.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Please go to our pages on ear taping. I think this will be all you need to get those ears standing. Many pups are in the midst of teething and ears tend to fall at this time. Don't give up or they'll never stand. See our ear taping instructions and keep at it.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Just keep taping the ears and try to leave them in tapes for as long as possible (try for 10 days to 2 weeks, checking all of the time for yukky smells). When you take them down, the moment that they fall, tape them again and leave them up for as long as you can. It is best that you tape them both, even though the one may be standing.
Are they really long? Taping long ears can be quite a lengthy process. Be patient and if this doesn't work after a year of age there are other methods to try. Where do you live?
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Please do as Judy and Marj recommended. I have seen people taping until the dog is well over a year of age. Is his ear leather quite thick? Thin? Are they really long? Is there anyone in your area that can take a quick look at the dog and ascertain if you are doing anything wrong? Someone such as a cropped breed breeder, preferably a Doberman, Great Dane or Boxer breeder...
Again, please got to ear taping instructions and read all twelve pages on ear taping your puppy and DO NOT give up!
What you most likely have in your boy is a "dimple" which is causing one ear to look shorter. There are several methods to use. I like taking one of the "popcorn" from a packing box...reverse taping it so the sticky side of the tape is on the outside. Hold the ear straight up and where the indentation is near the base of the ear on the inside nearest the head, have someone hold the plug in place while you use a strip of one inch tape and wrap around the ear just like you would if you posted the ear. Do not go up the whole ear, but just slightly above and below the popcorn. Leave this on for at least 5 days. If dimple is still there, make it a bigger plug. If the ear should fall down, re-tape but don't use the plug.
*** *** ***
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
Comments: Ear Taping
It's hard to tell the reason for the difference in length from your post.
Do both ears look the same except for length? The difference could be the
ear crop or it could be because one ear has a well in it. If there is a
well (one ear folds at the top of the head and isn't held straight). There
is an educational article on this web site about ear taping
you may want to read. 5 months is not too late to correct an ear taping
problem. If it's a well, you'll need really stretch that ear when you tape it.
You may want to seek out a Doberman expert in your area to have them look at the puppy and give you their advice.
Q:
from Diana
Baker
Date: 26
Apr 2002
I've been reading many of the Q&A's listed and am confused about ear-cropping. Our breeder does not have the ears cropped before the pups go "home". In fact, the recommended vet to perform this will not crop before 10-11 weeks, but your answers suggest to crop 6-8 weeks. BTW, our Dobe is a pet only, so her ears are cropped fairly short and required no taping/posting. They stood naturally and are absolutely beautiful!
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Comments: Ear Cropping Age
The puppy's ears should be done prior to placement in the new home if for no other reason than to prevent the new owner from having to deal with the blood, sutures, healing time, etc. plus *cropping stress* can have a bad effect on both puppy and buyer.
The younger the puppy is, within reason of course, the easier a time they have with the pain and the anesthesia -- recovery and healing is so much quicker too.
Yes they must be *very* short to stand that quickly. You were lucky but then again, the shorter the crop, the easier it is to get the ears up and the longer the crop is, the longer it takes.
*** *** ***
Comments: Attacked by other Dog
You would do well to get your Dobe into a group class with an knowledgeable
trainer who can work with you and her and get her comfortable around other dogs.
She's young so she can learn but I wouldn't blame her for having to regain her
trust around other dogs and a group class is a great way to do that! Also, you
may find some of the articles at flyingdogpress.com helpful.
Q:
from George and Jennifer Hoffman
Date: 25
Apr 2002
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
How do you know when your female is in heat?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Usually the dog experiences a fair bit of swelling in that area and within 3-4 weeks after the initial swelling she will start to bleed. Please have her spayed before she comes in for her own sake.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Good for you! I'm so glad that you found a
breeder close by.
The scenario you mentioned above doesn't usually present a problem in terms of
inbreeding unless the dams are closely related. It sounds to me that what likely
has been done with this particular sire and dam is a line breeding, not an
inbreeding.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
I myself really don't have an answer for you except to just keep working at it. He will get it eventually. I also am wondering if he has some medical problem? What I always tell people is that puppies always have to go out right after they eat, after they play, and after they wake up.
I know It is difficult when the dog goes to the bathroom as soon as it come into the house. Maybe you should switch routines. You should go out with him when you know he has to go, wait for him to go, praise him, bring him back into the house and play with him for a few a minutes and/or pet him. He may get wise to this eventually too and if he does, you will have to put him out and watch from inside the house until he goes and then bring him in and praise him.
It is difficult to answer a question such as this because there just may be more to the whole story. The dog may not getting something that he needs and is rebelling for some reason??? I do think that it is like an ear taping question we received earlier in that you just need to keep doing what they are doing for another month or maybe longer until he gets the idea. Patience is a plus with puppies...
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I'd go back to basic training. Crate him and take him out just like a very young puppy. Start with crating him at night and immediately take him out in a.m. and then after his breakfast. Crate him anytime during the day when you are not with him constantly.
You didn't mention if it was urinating or defecating. Neutering won't do much for a 5 mo. old pup for urinating as he is too young to "mark" but he's either smelling his past mistakes and thinking this is where he should go or he is just being lazy and going inside because he doesn't know how to let you know he has to go outside.
If he is defecating, make sure he does it when he is outside. If he doesn't go outside when you take him, a baby suppository might work. We use paper matches at shows but on a young pup, the sulphur will irritate his anus.
Another thing,
try and get him excited when you take him outside. Say "want to go
out???" in an excited manner so he runs to the door. This way he'll learn
to run to the door when he has to go.
Q: from
Kayleen Rickle
Date: 21
Apr 2002
Comments: Breeding The Doberman
I am forever grateful for your website. My utmost respect to your vigorous
vitality to the upholding of Doberman Pinscher's quality of breed. I
unfortunately have been terribly distraught. I have purchased a puppy from the
genetic genes of an albino. NOW...WHAT IS THERE FOR ME TO DO? I LOVE MY
DOG...AND THIS MAKES ME VERY CONFUSED, HURT and LOST...I would sincerely, and
most graciously ACCEPT...ALL and ANY HELP...Anxiously Awaiting Your Replies,
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
You can love your dog
Kayleen...its not his fault and he still is a Doberman after all. We're not
against albinos per se, just the people that deliberately produce them
especially for profit and the inherent physical and genetic baggage that these
dogs come with. Did you not check the pedigree out on the puppy *before*
purchasing it? There you go, there is a good lesson for you in this after all.
Do your research beforehand.
Q: from
Rose
Date: 20
Apr 2002
Comments: Locating A Dobe
Hi, I am interested in getting a Dobe. I'm quite daunted by the task of locating
a good breeder, finding the right dog, etc. I am an avid outdoors person. I
enjoy hiking, biking, walking, running, and I would like a dog that I could take
with me on these adventures. I don't want an overly aggressive dog, nor do I
want a passive dog. Also, I don't think it would be wise for me to take on a
puppy, since I work and may be moving soon. I don't know who to look for or
at... I would appreciate any help. And if I forgot anything I should have
asked... :) Many thanks!
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I would put a strip of one inch tape at the base of the ear and leave it on for abut 4 to 5 days. Make sure when you wrap the ear you hold the ear slightly towards the center of the head and tape close to the base. You don't need to post. It's most likely due to teething so this "lazy" ear just needs a little help. Take down and if it goes back down again, re-tape.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Just keep taping them until they stand. The teething process slows down the ear standing process in order to put more energy into the teething. It they are standing for any period of time they will stand permanently eventually. Because of the length maybe, it will take a little longer. Tape them and leave them up in tapes for as long as possible and take down and tape them again the minute both of them or even one of them falls. Always tape them both though.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
I would say that maybe that you should move first and get your ducks in a row and then get your puppy or young adult. Be patient too. A Doberman would love to do all of the things that you like to do. They are a breed that wants to be with you and in your life. When you are ready, refer to the DPCA breeders referral link at http://www.DPCA.org.
You need to interview the breeder with your
questions. Try to see the parents or at least the dam and the puppies. Read some
of the articles that are on this breeders-education site. I personally think
that both parents should be tested for all of the inherent health problems that
plague the
Doberman, so that should also be a question of the breeder. You should be able
to find a Doberman with the temperament traits that you want, because that is
what we should be breeding for.
Q: from
Tracy Paine
Date: 09 Apr 2002
Comments: Doberman Health
Our Doberman has been acting very strange
lately. He almost seems as if he is losing his mind. We have been told by other
'Doberman' people that some Dobermans develop a condition in which their skull
cavity is not large enough for the brain, and causes pressure on the brain. Is
this true? Where can I find information about this? Thank you.
A: from
Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Hi Tracy...NO that is definitely *not* true...it is simply a myth or an old
wives tale as it were. What seems to be the problem with your dog?
Q: from Kris Cisna
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
That's great. As for the barking, it will certainly start when she gets a bit older...enjoy her not barking while you can <S>
Q: from Kris Cisna
Date: 04 Apr 2002
Comments: - When to start Obedience
Hello again. My name is Kris...you have given good advice about our little
girlie`s ears...my girlfriend and I are thinking about getting her and her lab
sister into Obedience training...I have read that about 5 months is great to
start...but our local Petsmart says 8 weeks is good...they say 5 months is a
little too late...my goal with the training isn't for me or how I feel....I just
want her to be happy and respected and also to hopefully start flyball later
on...any help would be greatly loved. Thanks again.
A: by Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
You're both wrong <G> Not 8 weeks because of vaccination immunity -- IMO 5 months is a little too late. Anytime after 3 months is great just so long as the first course is only puppy kindergarten or basic manners, whatever they may call it. It MUST be made to be *fun* for the puppy. There's time enough later in life for serious obedience.
Q:
from Peggy Watson
Date: 04 Apr 2002
Comments:
I am a member of the DPC of Indiana and we would like to make a donation to a
research project involving health related issues of our wonderful Dobermans. So
far I have been unable to find a way to contact the people involved in this. Can
anyone give me names and/or contacts into this?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie, USA
There is an organization called The
Doberman Pinscher Foundation of America, Inc. that you can donate and etc. to.
For information contact:
I went to the DPCA site to find an address for someone to talk to with the DPCA and couldn't find that. The AKC has a health foundation that you can donate to and I think (I am not sure) that you can ask for it to go towards Dobermans.
There is also the Morris Foundation as well as others.
The Doberman Foundation, however is breed specific. They used to have fund raiser dinners at the DPCA national specialty every year up until the year 2000 at San Diego. I hope that this helps. I don't have my Pipeline yet, but I would guess that there is something about this in the latest issue of the Pipeline too.
*** *** ***
A:
from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I'd contact Vic Monteleon who is the DPCA President,
Vicscribe@aol.com. He can put you in contact with who would take the
donation. Right now our chairs for our Health/Medical Comm. is Dr. Davida Roof,
DVM and she can be reached at
GnRk9@bellsouth.net and Dr. May Jacobson,
who is Chair of the Health Registry for the DPCA. I'm sure either could direct
you also.
Q:
from Sue O'Rourke
Date: 02
Apr 2002
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Unless you purchased your dogs from show parents, or from a show breeder your chances of having a pup that conforms to the written DPCA Doberman standard are rare. Even pups that have a Champion sire and dam the chances are still small that the dog would turn out to be a good producing Stud. By producing, I don't mean numbers of puppies, but of top quality.
Did you buy your pup from a show breeder? If so, then have that breeder look at the pup and tell you the good and bad points.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
There are many articles already on this site. The standard and the explanation of the standard, the health testing, the articles on grading the puppies are a few that come to mind. However, you most likely will not be able to establish whether or not your puppy can add to the breed until it is quite a bit older.
You could have someone in your area evaluate the puppy. If you like, we
might be able to give you the names of some competent people in your area to do
just that. If the puppy was purchased from a reputable breeder, one who has
studied and is breeding to the standard, you should simply be able to ask her.
When a buyer purchases a puppy from me for example, that person would never be
leaving my house without that knowledge and would be able to come back to me at
any time for more information.
Q: from Anne
Date:
01 Apr 2002
Comments:
We have a 11 week old Doberman with unclipped ears. How soon does this have to
be done?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
The puppy should be cropped as soon as possible. It is usually best to have the dog cropped before it is three months of age.
Q:
from Jeffrey Kubit
Date: 30
Mar 2002
Comments: Fear/Suspicion Biting
I have a one yr old Doberman who up until 4 months ago was a relaxed, loving dog. I got him at 3 months old and started basic obedience and socialization immediately. Max would greet strangers at the door with a lick. He seemed to genuinely like people. At 6 months old I had Max neutered. His temperament was perfect and I wanted him to stay just as he was. I don't know if that had anything to do with his problem or not. Max has 15-20 people who he genuinely likes but for some reason he has closed a mental door and won't let anyone else into his social circle, worst of all children. No environmental changes have occurred such as a change of house, long hours alone, etc. Max will no longer allow strangers to pet him even if I have talked to them for a while and he sees they are no threat. It got worse a few weeks ago when he bit a small boy for no apparent reason. He licked the boys hand when he put it out but when he turned around he bit him. There was no indication or warning that it was going to happen. Max didn't bark, growl or anything. Max bit him one time and backed off like nothing happened. I would hate to give up on this dog but I have no possible answers to his social regression. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A: from Bonnie Wittrock, Wittrock Dobermans, USA
I will be happy to answer this but would like a few days to do it right. There are lots of issues that could be happening. The fact the the dog bit when the kid turned to walk away says the dog channelled to prey drive and acted on it. Prey is an offensive drive. A dog will bite in prey when he doesn't have maturity or courage. It could be the dog doesn't have the courage at this age to bite when worried being faced and held in a bit of defence drive. There are so many angles this could take but the main thing I can be sure of is it will come down to 2 or 3 reasons.
I will think on this a day or so and try to get it down on paper in a way that is understandable.
Q: from Michele Avery
Date: 26
Mar 2002
Comments:
My husband and I are more interested in acquiring a Doberman for competitive
obedience trials. What should we look for in a puppy, the parents of the puppy
and the breeder?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Please go to
buying.htm and take a look at the Buyers Guide
on Purchasing a Doberman...its all there for you to read. Good luck to you.
*** *** ***
A: from Bonnie Wittrock, Wittrock Dobermans, USA
What I look for in an obedience prospect:
Pedigree showing dogs that have attained high levels of training and held up.
Strong nerves
Excellent food motivation
Eye contact to me
Willingness to follow and be with me.
Correct conformation so they won't break down under the many jumps and bumps they take in training.
Excellent prey drive.
Medium to high pain tolerance. Not that I will inflict pain but if a dog crashes the jump or falls off of an agility obstacle it needs to be able to handle it if it should be hurt.
Social
Energetic. I tend toward the terrorists in the litter. Not too dominant but definitely a strong personality
After the puppy comes home all can be lost if the new owner doesn't socialize constantly to make the puppy comfortable in every situation. That means the puppy goes EVERYWHERE with you. I mean EVERYWHERE whether it is convenient or not.
Q: from Ania Freymann
Date:
27 Mar 2002
Comments:
How do I locate bitches available for my stud in Austin, Texas?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
First of all, don't worry about "studding" your boy. The world is so full of puppies that there are not enough homes as it is so please don't add to the over population.
At any rate, the owner of a bitch always selects the male. Remember, if your boy is a wonderful pet, but not of top show quality, most ethical breeders neuter them and just love them to pieces and leave the breeding to the professionals who don't mind spending several thousand dollars raising a litter. They don't mind sitting up all night with sick puppies and don't mind cleaning tons of puppy poop and shredding stacks of paper for an immaculate whelping box.
They don't mind selling their pet quality puppies out of top champions with a Limited Registration and a Spay/Neuter agreement. They don't mind raising the puppies until AFTER ear crops and aftercare until they are healed before they place them.
These are just a few things to think about and ask potential bitch owners, if they are willing to go through all this, who might want to use your boy.
I'd re-think using him and just love him.
Q: from Kris Cisna
Date: 23
Mar 2002
Comments:
I have an 11 week old lovely little girl...she is my first Dobe...my vet wants
to leave her ears untaped for 3-4 days between taping. Now a lot of places I
have read say nothing of this nature. I love her very much and I'm just looking
for all the info I can. Thanks.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
Please go to ears1.htm (follow through all the pages) and please do NOT listen to your vet on this. If you need any other assistance please don't hesitate to write to us.
Q: from Tom Neuner
Date: 23
Mar 2002
Comments:
I have a beautiful red bitch, well bred, with color dilution alopecia what can I
do to help with the problem?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
Q: from Dee
Date: 17 Mar 2002
Comments: Breeding
Has anyone had a reluctant stud dog? If so
what methods would you suggest that would help him perform. The male is 21
months and the bitch was ready, blood tested. He just wanted to play and was not
interested in doing the actual deed. HELP!!!
Please go to Dr Hutchinson's article on this site (See Reproduction Seminar). Judging by what you say, I would think that the bitch isn't ready yet. Sometimes the tests, blood test included, are not as accurate as the vet thinks. Dr Hutchinson gets into this a little in his article.
What day is your bitch on? Wanting to play is part of the breeding process. You should let him play with the bitch as it is part of the foreplay that dogs do.
*** *** ***
A: from Dee
Date: 20 Mar 2002
I have a 21mth old male ,a bitch came to him 2 wks ago who had been blood tested by the vet and he said to mate her in the next three days as she was ovulating. We tried everything but he would not mount her at all. He didn't even seem sexually excited but was very playful. I am worried as he is a top winning dog and someone wants to use him next month, I don't want them to make a wasted journey. Any suggestions as to how I can resolve this worrying problem. Medication? Diet? My vet said see what he is like next time which is really no help.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Relax. Twice daily bring the two inside or outside and let them play. Don't go near either. Disregard the Vet's advice as "most" males know when the bitch is ready and will not make any attempts to breed. I've had bitches not ready until the 29 & 31st. days and still had big litters. Let nature take it's course. Just sit by holding a long lead so you can strap them together. Keep collars on each. Have a couple shorter leads draped around your neck so you can get to them once they tie and hold them. Don't force the issue.
Q: from Lisa Daniels
Date: 16 Mar 2002
Comments: Breeding
I have recently become involved in training service dogs. Much of the recent
research I am finding indicates that the best service dogs are carefully
selectively bred and raised by the training organization as opposed to those
found from shelters or donated by other breeders. Although I am many years from
being able to do so, I would like to someday establish my own training /
breeding organization for service dogs and of course my breed of choice is the
Doberman.
I recently got my first Fawn pup, and she is beautiful. I have also noticed a
very different response by strangers to my Fawn Dobie than to my Black Dobie
when I have them out in public. That initial *fear* of a Dobie is not there, or
at least at a much lower level.
As far as service dogs go, I know Dobies are wonderful but are looked at a bit
differently by those not familiar with the breed. I have yet to see a Fawn Dobie
service dog, but my observations lead me to believe that Fawn (and maybe even
Red) Dobies would be more easily accepted by unknowing people in this role. With
this in mind I have been learning more about color inheritance in Dobies. My
question: is it recommended to breed dilutes to dilutes? What types of problems,
if any, have been identified in such breedings?
I have read it only once and I do not remember where but it has stuck in my mind
that dilutes should only be bred to blacks in order to keep the rust marking
more defined and clear. Is there any other reason to not breed a dilute to a
dilute?
With all other factors of conformation and temperament being equal, and only
this one concern about the rust markings, then is it safe to conclude that a
breeding program for service dogs that bred only fawns to fawns would still
produce as many satisfactory dogs compared to one using blacks?
A:
from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans
Fawns and very often the reds as well are far more easily accepted because John
Q. Public by and large doesn't even consider them Dobermans upon first sight of
one.
I myself would think that alopecia and/or folliculitis would be the greatest concern that you might be faced with since most dilutes at some point in their lives develop alopecia. However, these problems do not occur in all dilute dogs and occur even less often in fawns than in blues. Alopecia is almost always a cosmetic problem...the dogs lose hair as they age. usually in a patterned fashion. Rarely is it more severe such as being combined with folliculitis and other skin involvements.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie
Dobermans, USA
I have been thinking about your question and your comments and I understand what
you are saying about the colors and the acceptance of the breed because of the
color. The blacks definitely have a sinister look and are more threatening
because of their color. You will get the same response that you talk about in
fawns with a red Doberman.
As to breeding for fawns only or blues, I cannot give you any concrete answer
except that it is my belief that it is not good plan. Many blues and fawns have
a coat problem (in which they lose their hair) called alopecia.
If I were you I would try to read and learn more about the dilute colors of Dobermans before you take on this endeavor.
Q: from Cheryl
Date: 13 Mar 2002
Comments: Other
How much will I pay (including coast to coast air-if necessary) for a TOP
QUALITY 10-12 week pup, from a WELL KNOWN breeder with Mom and Dad both CD/CH,
all meds and ears cropped? THANKS
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
If you meet all the breeders' qualifications the prices would range from $1000 to $2500.00. Air fare varies but it would be over $100.00 one way. I would suggest your flying or driving to pick up your puppy. If you flew in and the pup was not much older than 10 weeks you might be able to fit him into a Sherpa bag to carry in flight under the seat with you.
Q:
from Sharon Shamion
Date: 11 Mar 2002
Comments: Doberman Health
I adopted a 4 year old red male 5 weeks ago. He obviously has been treated harshly as he drops to the ground if I so much as raise my voice. I have noticed about 5 times in the last 5 weeks that he has short periods when his head shakes uncontrollably. Just his head, not his neck. It stops after about 30 seconds or so. Could this be a symptom of Wobbler's?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
Almost anything could be suspected but CVI actually has other more noticeable signs than simply the head shaking. Just so you know, there is a similar problem found mainly in English bulldogs but also found in the Doberman, Boxer and Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. The head tremors, which appear suddenly, last several minutes and then go away and appear to be an intermittent problem. The vets aren't sure whether this is a focal seizure disorder or if it is caused from ear infections or some other problem. It apparently doesn't respond very well to traditional seizure control medications and lab work including X-rays, blood work and even MRI or CT examination is usually normal. In most instances treatment is not considered to be necessary.
My advice to you is to take your boy to a vet to be safe because most of us offering advice on this forum aren't vets. You could also join Cyberdobes or Doberworld and broach the subject there.
I personally think it might be a good idea to rule out low blood sugar as a potential cause of this problem, or even better, to run a blood chemistry panel to rule focal seizures out along with liver disease and other potential systemic problems.
Q: from Angel Gallegos
Date: 09 Mar 2002
Comments: Breeding The Doberman
My puppy is 9 months old. She is going through her first seasonal flow, how many
days will this last and how often will this occur?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
Heat cycles usually last approximately 21 days occur every 6 months or so (sometimes more and sometimes less).
You should look into spaying your girl once this heat is over as eventually they can run the risk of developing cancer.
Q: from Burum Han
Date: 09 Mar 2002
Comments: Other
We wish to own an older trained Doberman, checked out House of Hoytt and
researched their Dobermans. Any reviews are mixed at best, some very happy, some
very unhappy. But they seem to offer what I am looking for, an older healthy
Doberman with basic obedience skills and socialization. Am I looking at the
wrong breeder?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
You certainly could be. Why not check out Rescue in your area? They have lots of Dobermans requiring a good forever home. Many of them are very well bred too...
Q: from Janie G.
Date: 04 Mar 2002
Comments: Breeding The Doberman
I have a 2 yr. old male, and I would like to stud him. How do I get
started, what is the customary procedure, fees, contract, etc? He's blue, and
should produce all 4 colors the breeder told us.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
First of all, don't worry about "studding" your boy. The world is so full of puppies that there are not enough homes as it is so please don't add to the over population.
At any rate, the owner of a bitch always selects the male. Remember, if your boy is a wonderful pet, but not of top show quality, most ethical breeders neuter them and just love them to pieces and leave the breeding to the professionals who don't mind spending several thousand dollars raising a litter. They don't mind sitting up all night with sick puppies and don't mind cleaning tons of puppy poop and shredding stacks of paper for an immaculate whelping box.
They don't mind selling their pet quality puppies out of top champions with a Limited Registration and a Spay/Neuter agreement. They don't mind raising the puppies until AFTER ear crops and aftercare until they are healed before they place them.
These are just a few things to think about and ask potential bitch owners, if they are willing to go through all this, who might want to use your blue boy.
I'd re-think using him and just love him.
Q: from George
Date: 01 Mar 2002
Comments: Other
I am contemplating buying a male Doberman, age 10 weeks. The single most
important factor is whether I will be putting my three year, old very spoiled,
female Min Pin at risk.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I'd really be more concerned with the risk for your Dobe puppy! Min Pins can be very dominant and a Dobe will usually take a back seat to a small dog. No, they're not wimps, just smart...LOL
Seriously, I'd not be worried. The older one always rules the roost and will put the pup in place if it gets out of line. Just remember to make over the "spoiled one" and not just scold her for maybe snapping at the pup. The pup will learn in time what is allowed and what is not.
**** *** ***
A: from Michelle Santana, Foxfire Dobermans, USA
While I do think it is possible to have a large dog cohabitate with a small dog, I also think it takes extreme supervision and depends completely on the temperaments of the dogs involved. Getting a Doberman as a pup is a wise idea when introducing it to a min pin size adult. That way the min pin will be able to 'intimidate' the pup more easily, and establish a pack order, hopefully with the min pin as leader. (at least in the beginning of the dogs' cohabitation).
You may have to help the min pin establish this leadership from also running interference with the exuberant pup from disciplining the pup for rough behavior towards the min pin. I have often heard of large dogs giving leadership to smaller dogs but I think it is best to establish this relationship with the larger dog as a pup and the smaller dog as an adult.
Remember supervision is a must. If you can't be with both dogs to referee their interactions then don't leave them alone together!
Q: from Mary Eisenmenger
Date: 27 Feb 2002
Comments: Ear Cropping
At what age should their ears be cropped?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
IMO, between six to eight weeks of age is ideal.
Q: from Al Casimiro
Date: 27 Feb 2002
Comments: Taping Ears
I have a 4 month old male Doberman in great health. I've been posting his
ears now for a month - they seem to stand ok except one seems to stand inward
when he gets excited. Is this normal for now or am I posting wrong? Can someone
please help or do I have nothing to worry about?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
What you have in that ear is a *sink* or a *pocket*. What you will need to do is the next time you tape the ears stretch that ear up and out from the dog's head, pack some cotton between the stick and the ear right where the pocket (near the base I assume) or sink is located (in order to push it outward). Tape firmly but not too firmly and leave in for a week. If it is still there when you take the ears back down, the next time you will have to reverse tape the natural fold of the ear for a couple of days. Do not quit as someday you will notice that the pocketed ear is considerably shorter than the other one.
Q: from Rosamond Chapman Date: 23 Feb 2002 Comments: Handling Where can I find a handler with an apprenticeship program?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Most Professional Handlers employ young people who want to learn the trade. These employees must do tons of "dirty work" before they every take any of their charges into the ring. They must do daily chores such as feeding, cleaning, grooming, exercising, etc. at the Handlers home or on the road.
The Handlers can teach them the finer points of handling when and if they think they are ready. You are usually up from 5:00 a.m. and not in bed before 11:00 p.m.
The pay is not that great but the learning experience is wonderful. I'd start with contacting any handler you think is your ideal. Ask them everything. This isn't a glamorous job as one might think. It's lots of hard work that is never done but if you have what it takes and are willing to devote several years of your time, you may someday become a good handler yourself.
*** *** ***
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
The first thing that I would do if I was looking for a handler that had an apprenticeship program is find out when some shows are in my area. I would then go to the shows and depending on the breed you want to focus on -- go to the group rings and ask around for handlers that may take on apprentices.
You could also network with the Junior Handlers as they pretty much know about those handlers that are taking on new apprentices as well.
If you go to the show and go to the groups at the end of the day, ask for all breed handlers first because those are probably the ones you'd like to link up with. The reason is that you would be able to learn a lot about different breeds, grooming, etc. Good Luck!
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Contact The AKC and the Professional Handlers Association. You can probably get addresses from the AKC. The AKC has a new program concerning professional handlers. If you want to work with a Doberman handler specifically, go to dog show and ask the one that impresses you the most that you would like to learn from. You can also write to whatever handler that you would like to be your mentor.
Q:
from Marty Rogers
Date: 22 Feb 2002
Comments: Other
Hi, A red Doberman has two lighter spots on his back, both on the right side,
one on the shoulder and the other about mid-way down the back. Not extremely
noticeable but they are there. Has anyone come across this before? Could it be a
puppy thing? He eats Eagle dog food and was on enzymes and daily greens. He is
now off the supplements and they seem to be getting darker again; they are about
the size of a silver dollar. Thanks.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Might be because of a bite that the hair came in lighter or possibly he is shedding out and will get darker in that area. Otherwise, I have no idea. How big are the lighter spots?
Q: from Sharon Shamion
Date: 22 Feb 2002
Comments: Other
I'm trying to find the book, "The World of the Doberman Pinscher" from Nicholas.
The website book stores that I have contacted say it is out of print or out of
Stock. Any ideas where I can locate a copy?
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
There is a great book store that travels the California dog show circuit that is called 3-M books that has this book and others on the Doberman, including the older books. (Gruenig, Schmidt, the Complete Doberman and others). They are not grossly expensive either but I don't have a way to get hold of them at the moment.
I am going to a show this week end and will pick up a card and get the information for you. After you get the book you can the buy an index to all of the pictures in the book from the Doberman Quarterly magazine.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
The standard says that female Dobermans should stand 24" to 26" at the withers with the ideal height at 251/2 ", males 26" to 28" with 27-1/2 being ideal. With that in mind, anything over 28" is too tall. A Doberman is supposed to be a medium-sized, heavy boned dog. The legs should be no longer than the body is deep. They are supposed to be square. They are supposed to quick and agile. They shouldn't shuffle around say like the Great Dane or other large breeds do.
Yes, I do hear of tall dogs like your Amadeus from time to time. From the measurements that you list he sounds like he is very leggy. I would guess that he is way out of proportion and should have more body to go with his long legs or the other way around. Since you are already at the DPCA Breeders Education site, my best advice to you is:
find the articles on this site that are written on the Breed Standard
find the standard, also located within this site and read and study it
read the article explaining the standard from Judy Doniere
The Dobermans that I have seen that are that much over the standard appear to me as though they are not of true Doberman type. They looked like a caricature (cartoon) of a Doberman. Our job as breeders is to breed Dobermans that are as close to the Breed Standard as possible, so as not see too many Dobermans that are too tall. I would think (even though I can't see him) that your Amadeus should weigh more for his height. A standard-sized adult male with the proper bone and substance weighs in the high 80's.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
This is a Myth. There are NO Dobermans or any other breed that are Warlock type or size. Ch. Borong the Warlock was a top show dog in the 60's. He was 28" square and never produced any huge offspring.
The way this myth came about was a
lady in Houston, Texas had a Warlock son.
She sold a dog to someone who in turn bred this dog to a bunch of pet quality
bitches and kept those that were the biggest and advertised them as Warlock
Dobermans. This soon spread around that these tall dogs were Warlock
breeding and thus the myth of any large Doberman was a Warlock Doberman came
about.
It was a name made up to sell his less than quality dogs to unsuspecting people who heard the name Warlock and associated it with the great Borong the Warlock to justify their existence.
Don't be taken in. It's just a myth.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
I think that the "Warlock" term that you were referring to is just a marketing term. It is sometimes applied to an oversized Doberman. It also could come from a famous Doberman named Ch. Borong The Warlock. Also in the 60's there was a person who used the name "Warlock" on the dogs that he bred. Those are some possibilities for you to consider.
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Hello, This is a hard one. Normally the owner of the female contacts the owner of the male. However, before you breed your dog you should do a number of things. You should have him evaluated from a Doberman expert for his conformation qualities. If it is determined that he can be bred then you MUST have him health tested for all of the inherent Doberman health problems. These tests cost approximately $500.00 once you have done them all.
Breeding Dobermans should be tested for vWD which is a DNA test. They should have a thyroid panel done. They should have at least their hip x-rayed and sent to OFA for reading. I also x-ray the neck and the elbows and that takes two x-rays for each totalling 4 x-rays. He should have the CERF test for his eyes and also his heart must be tested, both with a Holter monitor and sonogram. He should also have his temperament evaluated. If he passes all of this criteria, there are several ways to advertise him. Also if he passes all of this you should show him and put him out there to show a lot of Doberman fanciers. I didn't say it was going to be easy.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
No, there is no supplement to make ears stand. The ears are cartilage and not bone so calcium or vitamins won't hurt but they won't make a difference either. Go to our pages on posting ears. This might help you. Also continue taping. Don't give up.
If you've done the posting and it hasn't worked then I'd suggest using 2 inch tape; I like the waterproof type as it's stiffer. Tape each ear at the base and then put a tape brace from one ear to the other. There's no need to use posts if they haven't worked from now. Leave them up for 4-5 days, take down, air out and if no sores, back up again. If the ears don't stand for more than an hour or not at all, you may not get them up. If they do stand for a while there's still hope.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Helen, there is no way the tracking system works out of the Country. This is why I was not in favor of just doing the Z listing. It was bound to happen that the Albinos would be in other counties and offspring brought back here. We are not giving up with AKC yet on our quest for Limited Registration. Stay tuned.....
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A: from Ian
Alexander, Walamara, AU
Tracking Albinos takes different forms in different countries. In Australia for
instance, it is impossible to register an albino as our registration
requirements state that to be registered a dog "must be of a color recognized in
the breed standard". I would suggest that you get in contact with the
controlling body in the country concerned and ask them the question.
Q: from
Melissa
Date: 17 Jan 2002
Comments: Health
What makes for the best dog food for a Doberman and when should you switch to
adult?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
The best dog food for a Doberman is a good quality kibble. The brand of food that should be purchased is pretty much personal preference and/or whatever works best for your dog. If you recently purchased your dog the best bet is to feed whatever the breeder or previous owner was feeding.
I feed my bitches puppy food when they're in whelp and I wean the pups on puppy food but once they are eating well I switch the pups to adult food for the rest of their lives. In my opinion, back when the brands of foods were of little variety, it was necessary to add the extra calcium and phosphorus to a puppy's diet. Now that there are so many quality brands of food it really isn't necessary and often even detrimental to the puppy's health.
Q: from Darrin Pfeiffer
Date: 12 Jan 2002
Comments: Other
How are Dobermans with children?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Darrin, Dobermans are normally
wonderful with well behaved children. If your kids are under 7 yrs. I'd
always supervise them together. Kids can be very rough with dogs and the
dog has only two defences ... run away or snap if being tormented.
If getting any puppy (regardless of breed) you must remember that puppy teeth
are extremely sharp and can hurt like the dickens. They love gnawing on
arms and legs so I'd supervise interaction with them and children. Divert
a chewing puppy with his OWN toys. Other than that, if you trained your
children to behave with puppies and dogs, you train the pup the same way.
Q: from Fareiza
Date: 10 Jan
2002
Comments: Other
If a Doberman (4 months old) gets his ears cropped but was not taped, after 2
weeks have passed, can the dog's ears still be trained to stand up?
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
If the ears have been cropped and
healed they must be taped until they stand. This may take as little as a
couple of weeks to many months. Cropping a 4 mo. old is going to take more
taping than cropping one at 7 wks. would but if you are persistent you can get
them to stand.
Please go to our ear taping site at ears1.htm
for various ear taping methods to use.
Remember to leave tape on no longer than 5 days at a time. Ears must be
taken down to air out, and to check for sores. Then the ears should again
be taped.
I bought a Doberman pup around 8 months back from a breeder. I had the pup checked from my vet and was told that the pup was absolutely normal. the pup was having a normal growth till 6 months old when he measured around 22 inches at the withers. from then on his growth seems to have stopped for no apparent reason. I have even consulted my vet regarding the matter but he couldn't help. he has tried with IV vitamin D injections but it didn't help. I already own a 2 year old medium sized Doberman. When I compared its health records with that of the pup I found out that the pup was well over an inch taller than the dog when he was a pup around 6 month age. I just want to know the growth chart of a Doberman pup and its maturity. Can anything be done now if possible to improve its height?
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
I don't think there is anything you can give to a dog that will make them grow. Their size and proportion is predetermined in their genes. Some dogs will hit a slow down period and then take off again. Most dogs continue to grow until full maturity. I have had dogs gain height even after the age of 12 months up to 2 years. I have had other dogs that reach their full growth at 9 months of age. Their really isn't anything you can do about a dogs height. I hope this answers your question.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I have used the PennHip method and like it. However, OFA does not recognize this method and will not include PennHip in it's database nor will AKC put it on the Registration papers. Until PennHip can get better recognition I will continue to use the OFA method for checking hips.
Comments: Other
What does Co-ownership mean?
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
Co-ownership has a specific
definition for a specific case. Each situation has a different meaning -
you need to resolve that definition with the individual that you are entering in
to the agreement with. You should have a specific contract that identifies
what items are agreed upon in the arrangement.
In my opinion, a co-ownership is a shared arrangement where both parties have
equal benefits. But whatever the arrangement is, it should be agreed upon
from both parties.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Since I'm guessing at the pedigrees
I'd say you must, first of all, look into the HEALTH issues of your pedigrees.
Cardio may be a problem in the line. You will have to research your
pedigrees more thoroughly and find out as much as you can.
Make sure you have all the health testing done on any bitches and dogs that you
intend to use. I would not jump into breeding quickly. It seems to
me that you may not be as much prepared as you should be. I'd go back to
the breeders of your dogs and ask their advice before doing anything as they
would know some of the problems that it would be best to stay clear of or some
of the attributes you may want to incorporate into a breeding program.
Remember, you will be responsible in breeding the best you can, conformation,
temperament and health wise.
Are your dogs finished? If not, why not? Were they sold to you as
show prospects? There are too many unknowns to your question for me to be
more specific.
Comments: Health
On my dogs pedigree after the OFA is a number 24g, 26g, 24e, 40g. Is there any meaning to these numbers. Second, after some is CERF42 - what does this stand for?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
The 24 stands for the age in months that the dog was OFA'd. If there is a G in the equation, it stands for good, an E stands for excellent and an F stands for fair. Anything else is not a pass.
As for the CERF, the 42 also stands for the age of the dog in months - this test should be done yearly.
Hi all. Happy holidays. I recently adopted a 6yr old female from a rescue and am wondering how long I should walk with her in -10(C) 14(F) degree temperature. She has a fleece lined vest but shivers from the first step outside. She is not at all reluctant to walk and seems prepared to go for as long as I am, but I'm afraid she'll get too cold. I've been keeping walks to about 20 minutes. Can she go for longer? Any response is appreciated.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
I'd keep her walks to 20 minutes in that weather. Dobermans do not have much undercoat if any. You may not know how much outside weather she might have been accustomed to in the past. Just as we get cold feet, dogs of short hair do also. If she is shivering I'd try a warm coat to cover her body, not just her chest. You don't mention her age. Young dogs retain heat more than older ones. You also might have her Thyroid checked to see if she may have a problem there if she seems unable to adjust to the cold. Most importantly...use common sense.
Q: from Pam Eggert
Date: 27 Dec 2001
Comments: Breeding
Please explain line breeding. My instinct is to think this is A no-no. I'm trying to decide whether to breed my bitch when she is old enough. Need advice.
A: from Marjorie Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Line breeding; The mating together of distantly related animals - i.e. mating cousins or dogs that share one or two common ancestors. Another definition is; any mating of relatives other than those prescribed for inbreeding.
Inbreeding; The mating together close relatives - i.e. breeding brother to sister or parent to offspring.
Line breeding is okay but you have to study the line which should be what you do with any breeding. It will take lots of studying of the cousins and their parents, etc. You can go to your bitch's breeder for information, talk to other established breeders, study breed magazines and photos for the conformation part of the breeding equation. You will have to ask questions of people in the know for temperament and health.
If you have more questions you can come back to this site or come back to me personally. There are articles on breeding on this web site as well. I hope this is a start in helping you.
Q: Adam Lawson
Date: 26 Dec 2001
Comments: Other
Where to buy a Albino Doberman?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Please go to to historyofalbinos.html and read about the albino in order to learn more about this anomaly.
Comments: Breeding
When grading 8-week-old puppies, are
there any clues as to which ones may grow too tall or be too short on leg?
Is "short on leg" apparent as a puppy?
Thank you for your time.
A: from Marjorie Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
Yes there are clues. Look for overall balance in the puppy both standing and moving around. A Doberman is supposed to be what I call 50-50 (body in proportion to leg length) when it grows up, so I look for that in an 8 week old puppy. From the top of the shoulder blade (withers) to the bottom of the brisket (chest) should be equal the leg from the elbow to the bottom of the foot. If the leg length is greater than the body is deep, than the puppy could be leggy and if the body is deeper than the leg length it will likely be short legged. I look at the balance of 50-50. Refer to the article, Standing in Motion that is on this breeders site for info and more reading material on structure and grading puppies.
Comments: Breeding
When is the best opportunity to
breed? How time consuming is the breeding process?
A: from
Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
You did not mention whether you were
talking about breeding a dog or a bitch. If a dog, I don't like to breed
them until they are over 12 months of age and a bitch over 2 years. Both
should be fully tested for hips, thyroid, heart, etc. Both should be good
representatives of the breed for breeding is for the betterment of the breed.
Now for when is the best time - I prefer having a litter during the summer when
they can go outside more in the warm weather but I have improvised during more
adverse seasons. I devote a great deal of time to the litter from birth until
they go home it's almost an around the clock venture. I am constantly handling
and playing with them from birth on.
If you truly socialize them the best you can from the whelping box then it
requires a great deal of time. I use a special neurological stimulation
process mentioned in the "Battaglia" section of this web site, in the early
stages. Then I migrate to more challenging situations but placing many
obstacles in their "large" play area for them to climb on, crawl under, sleep
on, play with, etc. Lot's of toys with noise - lot's of noise around "their"
area. I invite neighborhood kids to come over to play with them as well. I
really think, in order to do it right - it's a full time job.
The other concern most people have is the cost - you have to remember, their is
the stud fee which averages $1000.00, their is the ear crops which average
$250.00 per puppy, there is the cost of food, vaccines, toys, etc. If the
bitch requires a caesarian section, there is the cost of that as well.
It's not a money making venture, but for me it's a rewarding one in seeing the
puppies grow up and seeing the pleasure they give their new owners and meeting
people who become part of an extended family.
Hope this answers some of your questions.
Comments: Other
Is it a bad thing not to have their ears cropped? Someone once told me that they go deaf early because of cropping.
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
Ear cropping does not cause deafness -- many other things can cause it but certainly not ear cropping. Deafness is caused from both hereditary problems and can even be caused from giving a bitch certain medications during whelp.
Q: from Donna Bell
Date: 11 Dec 2001
Comments: multi-dog household
I have two Jack Russell terriers (4 years old and 2 years old) and a 1 year old
Dobe. My Dobe has been a part of our family since she was 7 weeks old.
She has established herself as the alpha dog. My jacks run from her when
she demands that they leave the room. My problem is I'm afraid my Dobe
will hurt one of the jacks if they don't comply with her wishes. For
example; last night I was lying in bed watching TV with my Dobe sleeping
(soundly) next to me. One of the jacks happened to walk in and my Dobe
sprang to the floor and snapped and snarled the jack out of the bedroom and the
jack that walked into the room is her best bud whom she plays with constantly.
Sheena (the Dobe) has a problem with the other dogs sleeping with me but has no
problem sleeping with my daughter during the day with the jacks on the bed too.
What can I do to stop Sheena's behavior? I love Sheena but I love my Jack
Russells' too......
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Donna, if your bitch is just over a year of age you may be able to correct this "jealousy" your Dobe is experiencing. You are HER possession and she is telling them in no uncertain terms. If you haven't tried yet, I'd grab her from the muzzle and look her right in her eyes and say a firm...NO! As long as she doesn't go after them I'd try that. If she leaps off the bed after them I wouldn't take chances.
If the above methods fail you can do one of two things.
Then let the J.R's have their time
with you when she is not allowed in the room.
If this is a problem with other times during the day she may never like them and
they must be alternated so they are not together.
I'm surprised the J.R's don't rule the Dobe. Usually Terriers are "top
dogs" in the household.
A: from Estelle Corr, Kalora Dobermans, USA
Most reputable breeders will crop
the puppies ears before they are placed in their new homes generally between the
ages of 6-8 weeks. The only time a breeder doesn't crop a puppies ears is if the
owner requested the puppy be uncropped or if there was a medical reason
preventing the puppy from getting it's ears cropped. After cropping the ears
require proper postoperative care. once the ears are healed they will need to be
posted( posting is the procedure that supports the ears so the cartilage can
harden) in order for them to stand. Posting can take months and in some cases
almost a year.
The important thing in answering your question is to make sure you have done all
your homework before you bring your new puppy and ask your breeder why hasn't
the ear cropping been done prior to your purchase. Generally a
reliable/reputable ear cropper is hired from the breeder. Please bear in mind
that the purchase of the puppy is the most important step in finding a reputable
person.
Q: Jennifer Z
Date: 29 Nov 2001
Comments: Other
I would like to know if there are any reputable Doberman breeders in the areas
of CT, NY, NJ, Penn, Vt, or even New Hampshire?
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Absolutely! I can provide you with the following to name just a few:
CT
Drew & Pat Connolly Southington, Ct 860-276-9607
NY
Kalora Dobermans (Estelle Corr), Farmingville, NY Ph 631-451-7337
Cara Dobermans (Ray Carlisle), Spring Valley, NY Ph 914-352-2044
NJ
Eastwick Dobermans (Sophia Koster, DVM), Clarksburg, NJ Ph 609-259-1955
PA
Q: from Tiffany
Date: 28 Nov 2001
Comments: Doberman Health
Can anyone provide me with information and home supportive treatment on Von
Willebrand's Disease? A Doberman recently adopted from a local shelter has
been diagnosed and his owner is trying to find out as much as possible.
Thanks
A: from Estelle Corr, Kalora Dobermans, USA
There is no supportive treatment for vWD that I am aware of. First I would like
to know if the dog has been tested through DNA for vWD. If the answer is yes and
he is DNA affected only a very small percentage of DNA affected dogs will ever
be clinically affected. (have a bleeding episode). If this dog ever needs any
type of surgery I would tell the Vet. to make to sure that they have done a
clotting time on the dog prior to the surgery and to have blood on hand in case
it was needed.
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
On the slipped disc problem - I haven't actually gone through a disc surgery but I will say this - a lot of it deals with what the vet says the prognosis is and the degree of quality of life after the surgery. I know it's a big commitment on your part as to whether you can deal with the after care. It's unfortunate but I don't think the prognosis is as good as it is for humans - each case is taken separately - only you can answer the question of whether you can deal with it on your dog.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
It looks like my reply may have come a little late but I have had a slipped disc incident, not with a Doberman but with a Dachshund. It has been labeled as a slipped disc. I have had a Dachshunds wake up in pain and sometimes dragging their rear quarters.
I learned from my first incident in the sixties from my outstanding old time vet, Dr. Les White. We would try to get the swelling down first from giving an anti-inflammatory drug, usually prednisone. Along with that, we would keep them quiet, confine them to a crate and only let them out to go to the bathroom. Usually within a day or two they would improve at which time you can give them more out time. There should be no stairs or jumping or playing, of course. As they get better give them more time out from themselves. Of course, if they don't improve you go back to the veterinarian for more options.
However, for me, surgery would be my last resort, even for myself. I would try acupuncture, massage and other remedies first. I have found, especially with Dachshunds that a lot of vets are a bit over zealous about taking the surgery route. Again I would try the above ideas first.
From the way, none of my dogs ever
had to have surgery and neither did I after a major back injury ten years ago.
I still do my exercises and do things correctly to not put excess pressure on my
spine.
Q: from Elaine Hopkins
Date: 27 Nov 2001
Comments: Doberman Health
Has anyone ever revived a dog successfully with CPR, which went down with CDM?
How long did it live after being revived?
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin
Dobermans, USA
I have witnessed the process of trying to perform CPR on a dog that suffered a
severe heart attack from Cardio with no success... However, I did talk to
someone who indeed did perform CPR and was able to keep their dog alive after
suffering a heart attack... Unfortunately the dog ultimately succumbed to the
disease - so I'm not sure there is anything that can save them from the ultimate
result caused from the disease.
*** *** ***
I had a six plus year old bitch drop
one day out in my back yard. I did CPR on her for quite a while.
I actually started to doubt that she would come around. She came around, was a
little groggy for a few minutes, and then went right back to normal. I took her
to OSU where she was ultra-sounded and holter monitored. They found her to have
early stage DCM and V-Tach. Apparently the V-Tach was what caused the spell. She
lived to be about eight and a half.
Q: from Betty Sadlon
Date: 21 Nov 2001
Comments: Other
Are there any Doberman Pinscher clubs in the Chicago area or outside of the
Chicago area? Also how do you get information on taking the CGC test? No one
around here seems to know? We live out side of the Chicago area on the south
side. Thanks.
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
In answer to your question about Doberman Clubs in the Chicago area, the Illini DPC. Inc. is a wonderful club. Contact either:
Laura Plasketes, Secretary 1103 Newcastle, Westchester, IL Ph: 708-343-9641
or
Jacqui Wendt, Ph: 847-358-5165
Q: from Lisa Daniels
Date: 08 Nov 2001
Comments: Ear Cropping
I am looking for a vet in the Owensboro, KY. or Evansville, IN. or Louisville,
KY area who is very good at cropping show dog ears. My pups are only 5 weeks old
and will not be ready to leave their mother for a couple more weeks but I want
to make arrangements now, especially if I need to travel outside my immediate
area.
Also, what age is considered optimal for cropping the ears? I have read a lot of
contradicting information about what age is best and why.
I have owned several dogs in my life and most of them were Dobermans. This will
be my first venture into showing. I am open to any and all advice and
recommendations. Our children will be graduating high school in a couple years,
so my husband and I are wanting to get ourselves established in a hobby
together. Showing and training has always been an interest of ours. Thanks.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox
Dobermans, Canada
Unfortunately I will be unable to help you regarding a good vet that crops in
those areas that you specified. Perhaps another breeder will be able to answer
that question for you.
As for the optimal age to crop, I personally prefer the age of 6 - 7 weeks. I have found that the puppies tend to rebound from the surgery much quicker and heal that much faster as well.
My advice to you about venturing into showing is to go to a show, watch the breed and then if possible walk around afterwards and introduce yourselves to any handler that is not too busy. In this way you will hopefully find a mentor and learn while you look for the same.
Q: Melanie Obendorfer
Date: 07 Nov 2001
Comments: Doberman Health
I have a 3 yr old fawn female. She is getting some spots on her belly that look
"bleached". They are not big spots but more are appearing. There is also
hair loss on these spots. Any idea what this could be? Thanks.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
I suppose anything is a possibility such as allergies to your carpets or her bedding or even to food, a possible thyroid condition developing and so on. She may even have alopecia. I would suggest that you have her examined from a qualified veterinarian as soon as possible.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
Melanie, It's possible your fawn has been laying in the grass and has insect bites. Many times they appear as spots sometimes red or white. If they appear soon after being outside, I'd suspect this. They are frequently the size of a pencil eraser to the size of a dime. They are flat and not raised.
However, I'd have a good Vet take a look to determine if they might be a staph infection or something else. Fawns and Blues have extremely sensitive skin and any scratch or bite can become infected quickly. See your Vet before it gets worse.
Q: from Rene Meachum
Date: 06 Nov 2001
Comments: Adoption
Family interested in adoption or purchase of puppy or young adult Doberman in
Shreveport, Louisiana area. Have previously owned several Dobermans.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
The only breeder that I could find in the DPCA Breeder's Directory in that area is Steven Zichichi. His number is 504-888-9403. Let me state that I do not personally know this breeder nor have I ever heard of his kennel name. If you want a qualified recommendation you may wish to consider a breeder in another State close to you or have your new puppy shipped to you from another State.
*** *** ***
A: from Judy Doniere,
Toledobes, USA
If you are looking for a Doberman from the Louisana area, contact the Doberman
Club there or Mary-Alice Rousselle at 504-888-9007 or Ann Schwartz at
504-737-0474. I'm sure you'll find one though these women. Good
luck.
Q: from H. Susan Holubek
Date: 01 Nov 2001
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
I would really like to hear DPCA' s attitude toward vWD and breeding. Is it OK
to breed affected to affected, affected to carrier? Is the breed large enough to
handle breeders ignoring vWD in exchange for quality? So much emphasis is placed
on health testing that I don't quite comprehend this attitude from breeders. I'm
new at this and would really appreciate some answers.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
The ideal breeding is Clear to Clear so that the resultant puppies will not have the vWD gene. Additionally a breeding is safe if Carrier dogs that are desirable for breeding be bred with Clear dogs in the future, which will produce 50% carrier and 50% clear animals, to further reduce the disease gene frequency. However, some or all of these puppies will be Carriers. These offspring should be tested for this defective gene, and if possible, only the clear animals in this generation should be used.
Carrier to Carrier is a high risk breeding Some puppies are likely to be Carriers and some puppies are likely to be Affected. Even though it is possible that there will be some clear puppies when breeding "Carrier to Carrier", in general, neither this type of breeding pair nor "Carrier to Affected" are recommended for breeding.
I strongly do not recommend breeding Affected to Affected as all the puppies will be genetically Affected and possibly some could even be clinically Affected. In my opinion the Doberman breed as a whole is certainly not large enough to handle breeders ignoring vWD in exchange for quality. This amount of emphasis is placed on health testing because we are trying to better the breed as a whole. An analogy to this conundrum is a three-legged stool that stands for Health, Temperament and Conformation. If one leg is broken or missing, the stool won't stand very well if at all.
While very young should we keep them in the same crate at night or in separate crates?
At what age would be best to start keeping them in separate crates?
A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
I would highly discourage getting two puppies from the same litter or even two puppies the same age. It's important for your new puppy to bond with you and learn the "rules" of the house without depending on the support of a littermate. I usually start sleeping my puppies from a litter in separate crates at about 5 weeks of age for this very reason. They need to become "individuals" and not be dependant on each other. I feed puppies in a litter separately as well.
You didn't mention if this is your first Doberman puppy or not but I would recommend you start with one and then get another later.
*** *** ***
A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
If you raise two puppies together,
they should not sleep in the same crate. Many breeders keep littermates
and often times they become dog oriented which in my opinion is not good and can
ruin a good Doberman.
Q: from Lisa Daniels
Date: 04 Nov 2001
Comments: Doberman Conformation/Handling
I plan to show my new Fawn Doberman
puppy. I have watched many shows and always been interested but just too busy
with my job. Now I have a new job and lots more free time to devote to something
I have had a lifelong interest in -- training and showing. My personal vet
recommended leaving her ears natural. How would this effect us in the show ring?
I am in Western KY -- near Louisville. Can anyone recommend a good vet nearby
(within a days drive) for having her ears done in show type cut? and what is the
best age to get this done? Thanks, Lisa Daniels
A:
from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA
You pose an interesting question. I personally am not offended from natural ears but have always felt they do not get the same treatment as a cropped dog in the ring. If your dog is of excellent quality it should not matter whether the ears are cropped or not.
If I were you I would have the dog evaluated from an expert to determine it's confirmation quality.
If you are interested in finding
someone in your area to help you - you can go to the DPCA Breeders directory.
You will also need to find out from that individual if there a classes in your
area that you might attend.
Q: from jessee@infinet.com
Date: 23 Sep 2001
Comments: Doberman Health
Are skin problems in blue dogs treatable? If a dog is 3 years old without problems what are the chances she will develop problems?
A: from Jim Anable
You asked what the chances were that
a 3 year old blue Doberman without skin and coat problems would develop future
problems.
Based on my experience (personal and talking with MANY dilute owners), the
serious problems show up early. Thinning coats usually show up between
about 12 months and 3 years of age. The earlier they start, the more
severe the problem (in my experience).
Since your girl is now 3 and has not had a problem, chances are good that she
will NEVER have a problem. If she does, chances are good that it will be
limited to minor thinning.
*** *** ***
Regarding skin problems in blue
Dobermans:
Blue and Fawn (dilute) Dobermans often are affected from a condition called
Color Dilution Alopecia (CDA). CDA is genetic, although we do not
understand the genetics behind it. In a single litter, one dilute puppy
may have CDA, and a littermate may have a perfectly normal coat. Despite
what some would have you believe, not all blues and fawns have skin and coat
problems. Blues and fawns can suffer from conditions such as follicular
dysplasia, that also affect reds and blacks. But serious skin problems are
rare.
The average case of CDA begins as bilateral thinning of the coat along the
flank. Severe cases can result in complete balding of the dilute coat, but
the typical case results in a very thin coat along the flanks. CDA is not
associated with any other health concerns, and dilute Dobermans are just as
healthy as blacks and reds.
Many people believe that good nutrition and proper grooming lessen the effects
of CDA. There is anecdotal evidence that quality foods with vitamin
supplements and fatty acids can actually reverse some of the balding. This
does not mean that all blues and fawns need supplementation of any form.
Some blues and fawns have wonderful coats without special treatment.
Research done from veterinary dermatologists has found that melatonin
supplementation can also re-grow hair in dilute dogs with CDA. Results
vary, and you should not expect complete re-growth. Even though it can be
purchased over the counter, Melatonin should be used under the care of a
veterinarian.
Blue and Fawn Dobermans are not for everyone. While all Dobermans deserve
the best nutrition and care, blue and fawn coat quality is dependent on this.
I always advise a puppy buyer to only consider a blue or fawn if they are
prepared to love the dog just the same, even if it turns out to have a poor
coat.
Q: from DancStarDobes@aol.com
Date: 20 Oct 2001
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
Is there any quick way of drying up a bitches milk? My puppies are 4 weeks old tomorrow and eating nicely on there own but Mom still has a lot of milk.
A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, Canada
Hi Liz, In my opinion four weeks is too early to begin weaning the puppies. However, what I do with my bitches is withhold food and water for 24 hours. If she gets really thirsty I give her the odd ice cube. DO NOT allow the puppies to nurse at all...wean them completely now if you want to dry her up nicely. Keep a close eye on her bags during this period to make sure they don't get hot which can indicate the start of mastitis. If they start to become too warm milk them down yourself using a warm soft cloth. DO NOT allow the puppies to nurse as that simply fills her back up.
The first couple of days after the day of fasting I give full water privileges and 1/4 of her normal kibble ration. The next couple of days the same except that it would be 1/2 rations of kibble and after that back to full rations of kibble.
Q: from Debbie Mortimer
Date: 27 Sep 2001
Other - Do you have any information on bike training? - Do you recommend it?
A:
from Barbara BilderQ:
from dogzzz1@aol.comA:
from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USAIt sounds as if your puppy is either being supplemented with
additional vitamins which is upsetting the balance of his dog food causing the
problem. He may be in the midst of teething. Many times feet go down, but
you must do something fast before the leg bones deform.
I'd try to take him off all supplements. Feed him a good brand of dog
food. If on puppy food, try a week on Adult food. If on Adult, try puppy.
Feed him several meals daily. Don't feed a young pup just once or twice a
day. Depending on age, feed 3 to 4 times daily.
Don't have him over or underweight. If he is on tile or non carpeted floors, get him off and put him on carpet. Don't allow him to jump off beds, sofas, or anything. If feet are down after a few minutes, put him in his crate to rest.
You may have to do this for a week until he is back to normal. No exercising until feet are up tight again. Hope this helps.
Comments: Breeding the Doberman
If the puppy's ears are cropped at 7 weeks of age, should the puppy be sold a week later?, or is this to soon? Thanks.
A:
from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, CanadaIn my opinion it is too soon. I never allow my puppies to go to their new homes until the ears are well healed. I like to keep the puppies with the dam and the littermates until at least eight weeks of age.
Comments: Other
Can you please inform me of the average weight for an adult male Doberman? What is a Warlock Doberman? When I buy from a breeder at what age should he/she sell me the puppy? Sight unseen, should I make a deposit on a puppy? Are there different shapes of ear crops? If so what is the most common shape, and from whom (Vet or Breeder) is the cropping performed? Thank you.
A:
from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Dobermans, CanadaThe average weight for an adult male Doberman is usually around 80 pounds but this can vary tremendously from breeder to breeder.
A Warlock Doberman today is simply a myth or an old wives' tale if you will.
A breeder should ship a puppy only after eight weeks of age.
Yes there are different shapes of ear crops. To me, the nicest one and perhaps even the most common is the medium show crop without a lot of bell.
Comments: Breeding
Hi, do you have any tips on evaluating 5-8 wk old pups? Our basic structures are to be the same (Weimaraners & Dobermans) I usually have gone on gut instinct as well as the basic structure of the pups. So far I've done very well but there must be a more standard way to evaluate the structure of pups. Any Tips, or articles of reference? Thanks.
A:
from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA*** *** ***
A:
from Faye Strauss, Sherluck Dobermans, USA*** *** ***
A:
from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USABesides living with the pups and constantly watching them in the whelping box from birth, I'd have to say the more experienced breeder knows which is the best for them to keep or which one they lean to as "the" one. In well bred litters, you usually have several that will end up being sold for Conformation showing. The way I pick the best of those is ON THE GROUND first. At 6 wks. I start making my choices and from 8 wks. I usually know which are the better of those. The puppy that your eyes are drawn to each time is usually the one who is going to shine in the ring. He/she has the "look" and will stop and strike a pose and it's awesome. I put that puppy away and concentrate on the rest. I keep going through the pups that way...sorting. You watch them moving and stopping and their attitude with other pups and stimuli. Next, I put them on a grooming table and bait them with meat or cheese and start again "dissecting" them for best shoulder/upper arm, top line, tail set, BALANCE. You know the eye color and shape beforehand. You put them through puppy temperament testing. Then you cross your fingers, through teething and size and hopefully the best homes and maybe you have some good ones to make you proud.
*** *** ***
A:
from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USAA more intense article may be viewed from clicking on STANDING IN MOTION to be taken to that page...
The bone and angle structure for most breeds is basically the same with some exceptions here and there. Weimaraners and Dobermans are basically the same except for breed specifics. The 8th week is proven to be the best time to judge structure in most all dogs.
It is up to us, in whatever the breed, to judge in the puppy for the breed specifics that makes the breed what it is. A lot of us are what you call, “lucky”. Grading 8-week-old puppies is an educated guess and there are no guarantees.
The differences in small puppies are so minute when compared to an adult. Like a fraction of an inch difference could be an inch in an adult.
Example: An upper arm that is 1/8 inch shorter than the shoulder blade and foreleg could be a whole inch shorter as an adult.
Hopefully you are observing and watching them from birth to grading time and noting things that you see. For grading, I like to take them to a place that they haven’t been before to evaluate their temperament as well as how they look confirmation-wise and moving around. Here, you look and grade for all the descriptive words in our 1st paragraph of our standard.
Balance is the big word, in my opinion, in our standard, so while they are on the ground, look for that while they are standing free and moving around as well as proportions. A new environment is the best for judging temperament because it’s a new place; judge temperament first. Is the puppy curious, alert, determined, etc. (study the standard and compare)?
When evaluating them on the table I do not use food or do a lot of handling. I like to hold them up off the table (like handling a toy dog - i.e. Chihuahua or Min Pin). After they relax their legs I place them on the table and judge them that way (as they land), in the way that they want to naturally fall. You want their front legs to drop underneath them and parallel to each other and perpendicular to the body and ground. The rear legs in their proper place. You look at the whole puppy in balance and proportions. When viewing the front from the front, you want legs basically straight and parallel, elbows fitting against the body. When viewing the rear you want a balanced, wide set, almost like a wishbone muscling equal on each side of the legs along with strong hocks, etc. From the side, look for neck placement and shoulders – length and depth of rib cage and keel, portion of breast bone running between the forelegs and extending backward to the line of the abdomen, short loin and other specifics in our standard. Looking for balance is our best bet as is strength in the outline of a nice, tight, little square package with “soft curves” ... no abrupt angles.
I do not like to use food because I want the puppy to look around on it’s own (temperament) and stand as close to natural as possible. Almost all of us can manipulate a puppy to look fabulous. For me, the less fixing the better. On the grading day there is no point in kidding ourselves.
I say – know your standard and learn basic structure and don’t forget temperament, which is a most important part of the grading of each individual.
References:
K-9 structure and terminology from Edward Gilbert Jr. & Thelma Brown. Can buy them from Direct Book Services – Bill Woodward – 509-663-9115.
Tricks of the Trade and video Puppy Puzzle from Pat Hastings – Dogfolk Enterprises, 17195 S.W. Division, Aloha, Oregon 97007, 503-642-3585.
The Gilbert/Brown book discusses structure very well. Pat Hastings talks about grading puppies in the book and the video is all about grading puppies. Pat Hastings has little tricks of the trade to help determine, say ewe-necks and other structural faults; it is an excellent source.
A person can use the other book for exact definitions of descriptive words as well as learning about structure. The cost of approximately $75.00 will give you vast knowledge and a reference always at hand.
When in motion, walking, trotting and running around, puppies should look like they look when they are standing thus my phrase “standing in motion”.
That’s all I can think of at the moment, I’ll be happy to answer
specific questions on anything that isn’t clear. I do feel the references
are great ones.
Comments: Handling
Owner/Handler...Force or Farce? - In this article it is mentioned to use a figure eight for circle training. Then it mentions going clockwise and counter clockwise 15 laps each way. I guess I'm not comprehending something because doing a figure eight is half the time clockwise and the other half counter clockwise on each go around. Please explain. Thanks.
A: from Bill Garnett, USA
I can see where you could become confused with my explanation of
the figure eight exercise. You obviously are a very literal person and so
am I. The explanation could be made clearer and I hope that I can do that
now.
In doing the figure eight the first time, you always keep your dog on the
outside leg, giving and taking lead as needed to keep him at a proper pace...not
pacing but at a proper pace. When you come to where the two circles meet
don't go the way that would put the dog on your inside leg. Continue to go
the way that keeps him on your outside leg. When you have finished those
repartitions then go in reverse where the dog is on your inside leg.
Keeping him on your outside leg will work his left side muscles a little bit
more. When your reverse it and have him on your inside leg it will work
his right side a little more. Both direction teach pace, rhythm and
agility but the inside movement will teach proper spacing from your side to the
dog. You want to get to the point where the dog is moving on a loose lead
both in outside and inside loops.
from Narniadobes@aol.com
Thank you so much. I get it now. This page is so helpful. I've wanted to get involved with personally showing from the beginning but found it hard to gain knowledge. Thanks again for opening the secrets to people who really want to try but lack the knowledge.
*** *** ***
A:
from Bill Garnett, USAGood for you Susan, you can do it. There is nothing any more rewarding then showing your own dog. its a great way to spend a weekend and make good friends. I know there are a few stinkers out there but they are out numbered from all the good guys. Good luck and I hope all your down and backs are good ones.
Comments: Breeding
What are the advantages/disadvantages of Frozen Sperm vs. Fresh Cooled?
A:
from Jessica Wilcock, DVM, USAAdvantages of frozen semen:
1)Can be stored indefinitely and used when ever necessary
2)The time of delivery is not a problem- it is shipped in a nitrogen tank to
keep it frozen so it can be shipped overseas or several days before the
insemination date if necessary
3)Allows you to breed to a dog that is far away (across the country or across
the world) without shipping the bitch
4)Allows you to breed to a neutered or deceased dog
Disadvantages of frozen semen:
1)For good conception rates it requires a trans-cervical or surgical artificial
insemination
2)Expensive
3)Requires more expertise in storage, handling and thawing of the semen than
fresh chilled
Advantages of fresh chilled semen:
1)Easy collection and preparation
2)Good conception rates with proper timing of vaginal artificial
insemination, excellent conception rates with trans-cervical or surgical
insemination
3)Allows you to breed to a dog that is far away (across the country) without
shipping the bitch
4)Relatively inexpensive (compared to frozen)
Disadvantages of fresh chilled semen:
1)Once the semen is collected and chilled it only has maximum viability for
24-36 hours- i.e.- preferably shipped overnight and inseminated the next day
2)Requires a dog that is producing quality semen at the particular time you want
to do the breeding
*** *** ***
A:
from Ian Alexander, Walamara Dobermans, AustraliaChilled semen is almost unknown in Australia, so I can't comment
on it. However many of have used frozen semen.
To us it is the only way to go for several reasons. First, most of us are using
frozen from USA so there is no alternative. Secondly, depending on the deal you
have with the stud dog owner, you may get enough for more than one mating, so
your vet can store it for you for use at a later time.
Thirdly, frozen also gives you the option to store from one of your own dogs for
later use. The problem here is that it should be collected when the dog is in
his prime, say about 3 or 4 years old, not when he is 6 or 7 and you suddenly
realize what good he could do in the future. Taken at the older age it is less
likely to be successful. You also need for the semen when thawed to have a
mobility of about 80%.
The key to getting litters from frozen is a vet who really knows what he is
doing. Frozen semen only has a life of about 6 hours to at best 12 hours after
thawing so he must get it in the right place quickly.
Our vet, who got us 10 litters from our first 12 tries, does not place the semen
in the uterus but in the fallopian tubes at exactly the right time, determined
from blood tests. Our last 2 attempts failed because the semen was not of
sufficient quality, which we were aware of, but we took the gamble.
Those litters consist of 3x 8 puppies, 1 x 9 puppies, 1 x 4 from an 8 year old
bitch the rest were from 2 to 5 puppies.
We have been to many lectures from the so-called high flyers in the game and it
seems to us our guy is miles in front. Don't believe their own publicity.
Frozen semen is opening up to us exciting prospects for the future. We
understand that a litter of Beagles have been born from frozen semen 40 years
old, imagine the possibilities!
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