1.  
Query 1. Thanks for the advice for my nursing Doberman. I now have 10 healthy one month old Dobie's. I am starting to help with supplemental feedings and am blending a mix of Eukanuba puppy hard & soft and a powered milk base... mom is still getting 1/3 cottage cheese and 1/3 yogurt as these are her favourites.
2.  
Query 2. We have moved the puppies from the back bed room to the kitchen with the whelping box instead of a kitchen table. (What we do for our Dobies) This is her first litter and she is handling the transition well. I also have two males 5yr Granddad & 2yr sire (I know not recommended) they get along fine. My older male is very submissive and my female is the dominator. We also have the joke my husband Guy is the dominate MALE.
3.  
Query 3. My question is the puppies have teeth but still don't seem to chew. They also don't really want anything to do with water. I feed once in the evening and mom supplements during the day. They are very intent on eating their dinner and sometimes even though it's gruel on the watery side they still almost choke. How/when do I make it crunchier? 
4.  
Query 4. I also am very interested in getting into the world of showing and agility with my female. She is a wonderful example of the breed. She has already completed beginner obedience. When should her training begin after the puppies are weaned?
5.  
Query 5. On another note, how long before she stops bleeding?
Thanks for any advice! You are a wonderful resource of knowledge!

1. Reply 1. As you continue to increase the amount of food going to the puppies, you can start to decrease the amount going to mom.  This will help dry her milk supply up.  By the time the pups are 7 weeks old, you should not allow the pups to nurse other than occasionally while she spends time with them.  By 7 weeks, I remove mom from the pups, and allow her to interact with them, but not sleep with them.  I also decrease her food.  Moms usually indicate when they wish to wean their pups completely.  As the pup's sharp teeth immerge, mom will not want them nursing.  Also important to keep the puppies nails trimmed every few days.  Sharp nails can cause mastitis (infection of the mammary glands).
2. Reply 2. Keep all other dogs away from the pups, as moms will protect their pups from other dogs.  Very few people have success with 2 males together (even neutered males).  While things may go along fine for quite some time, males can start fighting without any warning.  Having done rescue for many years, we've had a lot of dogs injured after living together peacefully for years.  Do not ever "relax" and think that they'll be fine.  It could turn ugly at any time.  Are these males AKC Champions, or currently being shown?  If not, you should consider having them neutered, as they will be much happier, more stable companions.
3. Reply 3. At only one month of age, these pups are just now ready to start the weaning process.  They should be "lapping" at this stage in their development, and will start chewing soon.  You should be feeding puppies of this age a MINIMUM of 4-5 times per day!  They are probably choking on their food because there are TEN puppies, and they are all trying to get as much food as possible.   With the weaning mixture, don't feed all of them out of the same dish as this makes the pups very, very  food competitive.  They will gulp the food in order to eat more than their siblings.  As the pups get older, you can gradually decrease the amount of water/formula in their kibble.  I generally don't use a lot of canned food, as this tends to create picky eaters as the grow older (they always expect the canned food to be in their dish and therefore may turn their nose up at the kibble).  At about 6 weeks of age, you can start leaving some dry food out for the pups, they will start to nibble on the food.  If they swallow without chewing, try separating the pups even further (1 or 2 per dish).  A litter of 10 may create too much competition.  I feed pups that are 8-12 weeks of age 3 times a day, and after 12 weeks, I start feeding twice daily.  My adults are also fed twice daily.  Once a day feeding is never recommended for Dobermans due to their deep-chested build, and propensity for Bloat.
4. Reply 4. There is a big difference between conformation competition and obedience/agility competition.  Obedience competition is fun and can be done with any purebred dog... providing, of course that they like it!  Spayed and neutered animals can compete in obedience and agility without penalty.    Conformation is a bit more complicated, and requires an outstanding, sound, correct individual.  How do you know that you have a worthy conformation competitor?  You should contact experienced Doberman show people and/or AKC licensed judges in your area to evaluate your dog.  They can give you an honest assessment of your dog and tell you about her strengths and weaknesses.  It sounds like you have 3 intact Dobermans in your household.  Do you plan on achieving AKC Championships for all of them?  You should have them all evaluated before showing/breeding them.  You should also do all of the necessary health testing, as it would be devastating to invest in attaining a Championship, only to find out that the dog has a health disorder.  Also important to know test results prior to breeding (OFA, thyroid, vWD, EKG, etc.) so as to ensure genetically sound puppies.
5. Reply 5. After whelping, a bitch may continue to bleed for several weeks.  The color of the blood should change and should be brownish as opposed to red.  Keep an eye for irregular discharge, as this could indicate a retained placenta.  I continue to take temperatures on my bitches for several weeks after whelping.  A temperature over 102 can indicate a problem.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Beth,

There really is no physical way to know exactly what color type your dog is. Look at his pedigree close up.  What colors were his sire/dam and grandsire/dam?  This gives you some idea.  What colors were his littermates? Were any of them fawns or blues?  Were there any reds in litter or were they all black?

Other than breeding, there really is no way yet and even then it's hard to tell for sure unless you know the background.

Q: from Pia

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Pia,

You've come to the right place.  If you read some of Michelle Santana's hints on training, this will help you.

Going to good conformation training classes weekly, preferably given by someone familiar with showing Dobes and going to shows and watching the good handler/exhibitors.  Talk to them AFTER the breed is finished and they'll be more than happy to help you.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Pia, you should have started your pup eating in a crate.  But now if he is too busy, put his food dish down in a.m. and leave it for 10 minutes.  If he doesn't eat it, take it away and don't try feeding him until evening.  Do this constantly.  He'll lose more weight at first but when he sees the food gone and he really is hungry, he'll eat.

Another thought is to give him just one cup to put down at first.  Once he starts cleaning it up then gradually add more.

I'd still try the crate but hang the bowl so he doesn't tip it over or try and bury it.  Just walk out of the room and leave him for 10 min. and do the above as suggested.

Q: from Erin Shine

Date: Wednesday, November 19, 2003

Time: 115:51:33

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

The test your Vet conducted is not as accurate as the VetGen test which is a DNA test done for vWD. Many times the other testing can give wrong readings depending on seasons or other health factors.  Please get a DNA test.  You must send to VetGen for the test kit and do it yourself.  Your Vet can give you the address.

You should not breed Affected to Affected but since clinical bleeding is so very rare, many breeders don't' worry too much about it other than testing for it and trying not to breed Affected to Affected.

As to breeding pets.  We don't advise that since the shelters are so full of "pet" that were an inconvenience to their owners and they dump them. This can also happen with show breeding but since there is so much invested
in them, it's rare to see them wind up in shelters.

We always try and breed to IMPROVE the breed both in temperament as well as conformation.  Please read the Doberman Standard and see what we should all be trying to achieve.

There are other tests as well that are very important to the health of the Dobes before you breed. (i.e.-Cardio - both ultra-sound and EKG, Thyroid, hips and elbow X-rays for the OFA, eyes) Additionally a thorough search of the pedigrees of both sire and dam for any other health problems that can't be tested for such as CVI should be done.

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A: from Anna Browning, Windsor Dobermans, USA

First off ... the vWD testing method that you've mentioned in your post is very outdated and not an accurate way of judging whether a dog is vWD affected, carrier or clear.  This "number/percentage" (also called the ELISA test) can change, depending on several of factors.  The ONLY way to test for vWD is to do the DNA test.  This is a foolproof way of determining your Doberman's permanent vWD status.  The company who does this test is VetGen and tests can be ordered online.  Since it's a DNA test, it tests the cells of the dog with a swab taken of the inside of the mouth.  It's easy for a novice person to do.  

Your post, however, brings up other questions regarding breeding.  I admire your diligence in seeking information regarding vWD, but, there are other things that should be considered before breeding any purebred dog.  Since we started with "health", I'll go over the minimum testing that should be done on any dog before breeding.   

1. Thyroid:  A thyroid test should be done to ensure proper thyroid function.  The test that is most often used is the TSH test done with results read at a major Veterinary College (Michigan State is the preferred).  Simply having the T4 thyroid test is not good enough.  
2. vWD: we've already gone over this one, but the results of this test will show you if your dog is affected (meaning that they carry BOTH genes), a carrier (meaning that they carry one of the two genes) or clear (meaning that they don't carry either gene).
3. Cardio:  There is a lot of controversy over the testing right now (which is the "right" test, etc.), but at a minimum, you should have an EKG done on your dog to ensure proper cardiac function.  An ultrasound of the heart to measure size and see function is also highly recommended.  Dobermans are prone to Cardiomyopathy, so you would not want to breed a dog with heart irregularities.  A "Holter Monitor" is also another testing method.

Other factors:  You mentioned that you have a blue.  A high percentage of blue Dobermans have skin problems.  The hair becomes sparse.  Even a "good" coated blue can produce puppies with skin/hair problems.  

You didn't mention if you have a male of a female but a complete pre-breeding test should be done.  On a male, the sperm should be checked; on a female, a reproductive test should be done, including a Brucellosis test and on a female, a vaginal cytology and a culture should be done as well.  

Lastly, honestly consider the quality of your dog prior to breeding.  The dog should be conformationally correct with an exceptional temperament.  The dog should ideally be an AKC Champion of Record.  The dog's 5 generation pedigree should have Champion parents, grandparents, etc. 

You should always breed the best dog possible.  Not every purebred deserves to be bred.  Even in litters with 2 Champion parents, there are almost always pet quality puppies.  These puppies should not be bred as they are not the best in every way possible.

Sherrie: 

There are several books that I would recommend, unfortunately, I believe most are out of print.  The Complete Doberman Pinscher is a good one if you can find it.  It gives a lot of information about the foundation of the breed as well as how to raise your puppy etc.  Also, if you go to the breeders website and check out the articles, there are a lot of good ones to read.  DPCA Breeder Education - a subsidiary of the Doberman Pinscher Club Of America

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Sherrie,

There are some very good books we all have in our library.  One of the most beautiful is is Doberman Pinschers by Anna K. Nichols.  Another is The new Doberman Pinscher by Joanna Walker. Others are by Rod Humphries, Mario Migliorini, Jimmy Richardson, Mark Ladd, Joanne Brearly, Fred Curnow, and for the history you should get The Dobermans Pinscher in America by Wm.S.Schmidt and another by Philip Grunig.

There are others but this will keep you busy for a while. 

I'd also like to recommend a very good bi-monthly magazine, The Doberman Digest. Subscriptions:  L. Michelle Lewis, 602-569-5220

Q:

from Roland R. Ryall
Date: Monday, November 17, 2003

Time: 12:39:38

Comments: Doberman Temperament

Hello Roland,

You can get the information from www.AKC.org. It may be easier for you to understand than for you to try to understand my explanation. If you can't find it, which I am sure that you will, come back and ask us again.

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A: from Susanne Smith, Alpha Dobermans, USA

The American Kennel Club puts out a very nice booklet called the Beginners Guide to Dog Shows that explains how the system works.  I believe you can order it from them. Their web site is www.AKC.org.

Q: from Christina Frances-Pratt

Date: Monday, November 17, 2003

Time: 05:18:49

Thank you for replying to my plea for help for my boy. At present he is having either a beef or lamb brisket bone early morning, evening meal is either raw beef chunks or ground up chicken carcases with a combination puree of potato, garlic, carrot, kelp, etc, he will occasionally have approximately 1/2cup of Pal Meatie Bites in his treat ball, but is never really interested in food. He will eat if he sees me watching him but will leave his food if he thinks he can get away with it. Competition from the other dogs doesn't encourage him to eat. I usually feed them in separate areas.

I have tried Rolled oats and or rice in his food but he will ignore the meal. I tried removing the food after he left it so that he might learn not to but after 3days with him not eating  anything and a trip to the vet just to check him out, {nothing wrong} I decided that sitting outside with him while he ate was the only way. 

He is holding his weight at 36 KG with me doing this so isn't starved but I have added cooked minced liver to his food today and he ate it. I will try anything to get his diet right.

I have never had a dog that isn't interested in food. This one will totally ignore food laid on the floor or held in a hand. He will chase but not touch rabbits, birds, mice or cats.

So how do I get him to eat properly, I realise that I wandered a bit, but it may all be relevant.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello again Christina,

Boy, this is a hard one, but I will try. Your boy is lacking in food drives, right? You need to make him a balanced diet and feed it to him and quit enabling him by handing him the food and begging him to eat.

You need to have him think that you don't care and it will hurt "you" more than it will hurt him.

I don't know how you feel but when someone is nagging you to do something that you don't want to do, you kind of think of it that way.

Continue to feed him in his place and give him 5 minutes to eat. Pick it up in 5 minutes no matter what. When you hand it to him in his place, walk away and do not come until the five minutes are up. Keep fresh water available for him at all times and just stick it out. On our site's pages there is an article for a recipe for satin ball for putting on weight. Click here http://www.dpca-breedered.com/satin_balls.html to get to it. You can do this and add the vitamins and the veggies to it so the diet is balanced and has the food in it that you are going to want him to eat on a regular basis. Or, you can feed this Satin ball deal, add Vitamin C and Vitamin E and your other vitamins. If he eats this and likes it, you can get the weight on him and start incorporating his regular diet into it once he gets into the habit of eating. I am assuming that he is a young dog, like a teenager and is at the age where a Doberman is prone to have this behavior. It is or can be a behavioral problem.

I recently was looking for something else by typing in on Google (Canine behavioral disorders) and I ran across this in the list. I didn't read it because it wasn't what I was looking for at the time but you may want to take the time find it and read up on this as if it were a behavioral problem.

There is another way of going at this too that is pretty radical and I can tell you about it if you like. Basically it means that you don't feed your dog for 3 or 4 days and then for 3 or 4 days you give then just a teaspoon of food and then up it every 3 or days and if there is a day he doesn't eat, you start all over again. 

The fact that he is not interested in touching the rabbits, mice or cats, tells me that he doesn't have much in the way of food drives but the fact that he chases them is a good sign. I hope that this is helpful.

You now have my address so feel free to write back to me.

I have a question. What is his pedigree? I would appreciate knowing this. Let me hear back from you.

Q: from Christina:

Hello Marj , I have attached My boys pedigree. I started writing it out but it takes forever so I cheated and scanned it. He tries to live up to his given name. I like Dude better.

I know that I am letting the brat get away with his not eating unfortunately at present. I would force feed him if it helped.

His Breeder has advertised him at Stud and is insisting that he attends Conformation Shows. He got his 4th Challenge last weekend and we have shows every weekend coming so keeping him eating and fit is a priority and he knows it but I am going to try the Satin Ball recipe. Could you possibly tell me the amounts in ounces or grams and what is Total?

I was thinking of including Zinc into Dudes' diet but am unsure of amounts.

I live in a farming area so my vet treats more cows than dogs. I have been doing a lot of research into Doberman health problems and passing relevant info on to them so that at least they will know what I am talking about if the need arises. I wish that I had done it all before I got Dobermanns for the dogs sakes ... they are unlike any other breed I have had and it breaks my heart to see people trying to break then in to their ways. I treat mine with
respect and in return get loving, friendly, usually obedient guardians who share my life. They don't destroy things (in fact they still have their original balls and toys and they put them away at night). I also look after other Dobermans when their owners go away and they leave here less destructive and politer than when they arrived. I don't shout or hurt them but time out in a safe place[ cage] is usually only needed once per dog which is why I feel like I have failed somewhere with Dude and his diet. Could trauma cause him to not want to ea, as he has had this problem for so long now that I feel there has to be a reason for it and my late husband was holding Dude as a pup when he [my husband] passed away and within a few days my old dog [Dudes best mate] passed away followed by my old cat.

I thought that by getting another mate for Dude it might have helped him but I don't really know. Then when Dude was 6 months he peed on an electric farm fence and went into convulsions but seemed all right by the evening. As you can see I am grasping at straws trying to figure him out. What part of food doesn't he understand?????

I would be grateful for any advice you can offer me. I also give him a vitamin E capsule at present. I didn't know about Vitamin C ... how much should I give him and is there anything else I should try?

I know I have rambled again ... sorry about that. I hope that you will write back.

Q: from Christina:

Marj,  we have different packaging I think. Our oatmeal comes in bags/sacks of all sizes, not boxes, I still have the old lb and oz scales around so understand those weights as well as metric. I have been searching sites to find out more about Vitamins and Minerals for dogs. I asked my vet but they offered to give injections of what I thought he might need. I do know that we need Selenium here due to overworked land. I don't like the hit and miss idea of the vet just injecting. If I can control with tablets I will so any help would be appreciated

I was surfing for my bitch's line [v Norden Stamm] and saw some beautiful dogs. They look very impressive with the clipped ears. I will try and find out about the history of Dude, I know his mum well, and she eats like a horse; in fact she will help herself given half a chance if I leave the store room door open or food on the table, but is so thin she looks starved, I have had her here to encourage Dude to eat so I know she isn't starving. It is just a habit as she has always been fed in a group situation; first in - best fed.

I have not fed Dude this morning and he is hanging around waiting but I think that is just habit. Hopefully he will be hungry tonight. I have decided that if he doesn't eat he wont show [ he enjoys it ]. I have been letting him get away with it too long. I know that he can smell things as I have been working with them finding things by scent so that is not the problem.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Try this recipe for Dude Christina:

SATIN BALLS

INGREDIENTS:

10 pounds of cheap hamburger meat

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Christina I am just playing with it for you. I got a pound of the flakes and I didn't get Total, I got organic multi grain flakes. It is like corn flakes, however corn is harder to digest. It may be okay all ground up in the flake form. I don't know. I got a 1 lb, 2 oz box but it does come bigger. I have some here in case it looks like I need more. I have wheat germ here so I thought that I would put in 1/2 pound or 8 ounces. I take it that you already have the molasses and the oil. To tell you the truth about how much to give him...I guess whatever he will eat.

Tomorrow I am leaving for dog shows and I won't be back until Tuesday am. In the meantime, good luck with all of this. Marj  

Q: from Christina:

Hello again Marj. Just a quick note to let you know that I did make a batch of satin balls and they are in the freezer. I didn't use unflavoured molasses because I couldn't find it. I put the 10 eggs, shell and all, along with the molasses and the oil in the blender and liquefied them and added it to the spread out meat with all of the dry stuff evenly spread over the meat. I pour the liquid evenly over that and it mixed very easily and evenly. I used my mix of raw wheat germ and flax seed meal that I feed the dogs daily anyway because I had that. I didn't put in the pinch of salt either. I don't know what a pinch was going to do for over 11 pounds of mixture. I just took the approach that it doesn't have to be exactly like the recipe says word for word and I feel that the ingredients don't have to be just like what it says but close.

Marj wrote: Don't worry if the measurements are exactly like it says, just make it close.

Christina wrote: I feel that the mix that I did came out great.  My cat woke up and came around while I was mixing it and was very interested in it. I gave him some and he scarfed it up and asked for more.

Marj wrote: If you need to feed selenium, feed it. There are some states here that don't have enough too. I think it is some of the intermountain states like Montana. It seems that I remember hearing that about Montana. 

Would you be interested in joining a Doberman list. Go check www.cyberdobes.com and see if you want to join and check it out. The way to do it (join) is on the web-site. It is one of the better lists of that type and people are asking questions all of the time and we all learn and we give too. Check it out. Marj
 

Q: from Christina Frances-Pratt
Date: Sunday, November 16, 2003

Q: from Angela, Boynton Beach, FL

Angela:

I think you are talking to the right person in Ray Carlisle as he would know of any working people in Florida.  You might try the United Doberman Pinscher website as there may be some links to breeders, etc. there. Good luck.

Q: from S. A. Volkmar
Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2003

Theresa:

I have never heard of this type of problem with a young puppy.  If indeed she "bloated" at this young an age, or any age for that matter, you would have known as she would have been in distress and in a lot of pain. 

I'm so sorry on your loss but I think it was not the norm for our breed.  I would be puzzled too, especially if she showed no signs of being ill before and she ate her dinner, etc.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Theresa,

It is so heartbreaking to lose a dog of any age but one so young is especially so.

It could have been bloat which is when the stomach fills with too much gas and it can't escape.  The stomach sometimes turns over from it and death is quick unless they are taken in immediately and surgery preformed.

It could also be from a heart problem such as Cardiomyopathy wherein the dog may die instantly.

In any case, I'm so sorry to hear of your tragic loss.

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A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Kennels, USA

It was so sorry to read of your tragic and untimely loss Theresa. You said that an autopsy had been done on your puppy...were the findings of the autopsy bloat or something else?

It could have been bloat but unless you weren't at home when it happened I think you would have known there was a serious problem because bloat is very painful for the dog.

Q: from Janet
Date: Monday, November 10, 2003

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Janet,

Your diet sounds pretty good to me. Try adding a tablespoon of olive, canola or a vegetable oil per meal to her diet and you will see that in time the dandruff goes away. Topically you can put a little baby oil on your wet hands spread it through her hair coat all over her body. If her coat is dry it will soak that in over night and will improve. Give it a chance to work.

The staph infection could have dried the coat and the skin out or the weather turning cold all of a sudden can do it too. If the bumps show up again, you may have to try the treatment again but ask your vet before you put her on cephalexon again. Sometimes it does take a couple of rounds of cephalexon to combat those staph infections in the Doberman.

Also when you are finished with this bag of puppy food, I believe that you can switch to
an adult food as well. You can also give a fish oil capsule daily and Vit. C and Vit. E two times a day.

As far as diet is concerned, if she still appears to have dry flaky skin you could try a different kibble. I think that your additives are all okay.

I can give to you my opinion and it is ONLY my opinion about the spay question. If she is your only dog and you are absolutely sure that you can keep her away from intact male dogs, I like to see them go through the first heat cycle if it is before, say, 10 months of age. However, you can spay them before their first heat and I would consult your veterinarian for his opinion based on your particular situation or to be safe, spay before her first heat period and ask your vet as to when.

Roger, it is too late to crop your Doberman.  Ears should be cropped between the ages of 8-12 weeks.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Roger,
I am thinking that since your puppy is about to be 6 months old that it may be too late. You could talk to a veterinarian that is an experienced ear cropper and have him/her look at your puppy and determine whether your puppy is a candidate for a successful ear crop AND that the ears will stand. If it is questionable whether or not that the ears will stand, do not crop your puppy. Your Doberman will look better with natural ears then with cropped ears that will not stand.

My guess is that it is too late to get a nice ear crop at the proper length for your puppy AND have them stand.

If you and your veterinarian choose to crop, plan on a lot of aftercare of taping. I have
found that after the pups are older, they often are less tolerant with the taping process and get to be very successful at the game of getting the tape off in 2 seconds flat.

Q: from Beau H. Gunter
 Date: Sunday, November 9, 2003

Beau:

It takes years of experience and knowledge to select a show puppy or pick of the litter.  You should study the standard and get advice from someone who's been in the breed to a long time.  You basically want to select the puppy that best exudes the standard in type and conformation. Even then it may not turn out to be the best one in the litter.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Beau,
First go and read http://www.dpca-breedered.com/DPCABreedStandard.htm and
then go to http://www.dpca-breedered.com/gradingpuppies.htm and finally to
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/selecting_conformation_puppies.htm.

Good luck.

Shelene:

There are a lot of theories as to why the Doberman's tail is docked.  I think mostly it was because the dog was bred for guard work and Herr Dobermann didn't want anything that could be grabbed by someone and used to control the animal.  Also, the dog needs to be able to approach sometimes without being detected and a long tail could be a give away. 

Just my opinion.

Holly:

The judge does not "have" to see any notes, etc. about why a tooth is missing.  It will be considered a missing tooth and if it's the only one and there are no other glaring faults, I wouldn't worry about it.

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A: from Anna Browning, Windsor Dobermans, USA

Now, if you do remove the tooth, judges may/will think that it's a missing tooth.  Unfortunately, there's no way to show judges that the tooth used to be there.... (ie: you can't give judges a vet's certificate showing that they pulled the tooth out!)... so it could count as a missing tooth if you pulled it.  I know... it does not seem fair, but that's the way it is.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dogs usually get all their permanent teeth by 5 1/2 mo.  Certainly by 6 months all should be in.

Judges and breeders count teeth in sets.  Top, 6 incisors (front teeth) 2 canines, 4 premolars (3 small ones and the large tooth is actually a premolar) 2 small molars in back.

Bottom:  6 incisors, 4 premolars, 3 molars (the big one on bottom is a molar, the 2 tiny back teeth are also)

In the show ring missing teeth are a fault.  4 or more missing teeth are a disqualification.

One missing tooth is a very minor fault, 2 missing, more faulty, 3 missing, very serious fault.

The proper age in my opinion is on or about six months of age although if he is no problem to you, you could even wait until he is about 15 months of age. Some breeders even recommend earlier neutering. Please keep checking back as there may be other breeders replying to your question.

According to the Doberman Pinscher standard, the Doberman is supposed to have 42 correctly placed teeth. The standard says, Teeth strongly developed and white. Lower incisors upright and touching inside of upper incisors true scissors bite. 42 correctly placed teeth, 22 in the lower, 20 in the upper jaw. Distemper teeth shall not be penalized. Disqualifying Faults: Overshot more than 3/16 of an inch. Undershot more than 1/8 of an inch. Four or more missing teeth.

Four or more missing teeth is a disqualification; 1,2 or 3 missing teeth is considered a deviation to be penalized to the extent of the deviation.

The standard says:

DISQUALIFICATIONS

a.. Overshot more than 3/16 of an inch, undershot more than 1/8 of an inch. Four or more missing teeth. Dogs not of an allowed color.

Missing teeth are hereditary. You can read a discussion about the teeth and properly placed in the DPCA Illustrated Standard (www.dpca.org)  and also in an article on our pages, Dobermans In Detail. Click here to read more discussion about teeth http://66.101.7.11/headlk.htm.

For the spay question, I personally like the female to go through an heat cycle and then wait 2 to 3 months but try to spay her before her next heat cycle. You can do an early spay before this time period, but I believe (and I say *I* believe) that an early spay does effect the growth and development of the dog. A veterinarian once explained to me that they can grow taller and spindly and develop differently if altered too young. I have seen many Dobermans that have been spayed early and I really do believe this to be true after seeing these dogs. This is just my opinion but read the other answers and
form your own opinion and talk to your vet too.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Actually almost any age is fine for neutering a male.  Most people wait until they are at least 6 months. Ask your Vet.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Gary:

I usually tell puppy buyers that they can neuter their male anytime after 4 months of age but there are different suggestions from different people.  Your vet would be the best expert in that area.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Michael,

I think the two things are unrelated.  I would guess she might have a slight bladder infection.  Take her to the Vet with a urine sample.  She could also have puppy cystitis which is very common in young bitches. In any event, take her to the Vet.  Dogs don't do things to annoy us, even when we think they do.

Q: from Annie

Annie, whether one male is neutered or not, I would not recommend having two males together in the same household.  While occasionally you come across situations where two males will get along fine, most of the time it does not work.  Your current boy being 18 months is not the issue either.  He probably would get along fine with the new male while they were young but as they get older you most likely will find that they won't get along after all.  You should consider getting a female and spaying her.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Annie,

It is not recommended that two male Dobermans be raised and live together
in the same household. There is a high risk that they would not get along
somewhere down the road and you could be faced with placing one of them. It
really isn't fair to them in the end. It can also be a nightmare for you too as you will
always have to worry about them getting together and fighting. Besides, you're
endangering yourself when separating them. Trust me, it would end up being a real drag. It is not a good thing in so many different ways.

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A: from Anna Browning, Windsor Dobermans, USA

Adding another Doberman to your household can be a wonderful experience if handled properly.  There are many things to take into consideration, however, before adding another family member to your home.

First of all, consider the disposition of the existing dog.  Is he shy, outgoing, dominant, laid back, etc.?  This will figure into the type of dog you bring home.  Secondly, make sure that you have ample time to devote to two Dobermans.  Dobermans are very family-oriented dogs, and require a lot of attention and training from their humans.  Given a choice, most Dobermans would rather be with people than other dogs.  That's not to say that they don't like other dogs ... they do.  It's just that they are truly a "people dog". 

When introducing a new dog to a home that already has another dog, it must be done correctly and patiently.  Introduce the dogs on neutral turf (a public park?), on-leash.  Allow the new dog to follow the existing dog into your home.  That way, the existing dog still maintains that "they were there first".  Praise the "old" dog for behaving appropriately towards the new dog.  If the old dog ignores the new dog, this is normal behavior.  They will eventually investigate each other.  Make sure that you are there whenever they interact.  Do not leave them unsupervised until you are absolutely certain they will not harm each other.  This can sometimes take several weeks.  You should have an "alone" space for each of them.  I use crates as a dog's personal space (I use this for rescue dogs coming into my home for foster care).  They can go into their crate when I cannot supervise them or they just need a break.

Lastly, if you have an un-neutered male, I absolutely do NOT recommend that you get another male!  While it might be okay in the beginning, more often than not, two male Dobermans in the same home will lead to disaster.  Doberman males tend to be territorial and this can lead to jealousy and serious fighting.  Unless you are prepared to keep these dogs separated for the rest of their lives, do not bring another male into the home. 

Having done Rescue work for 15 years, I can tell you from experience that having two males together rarely works out.  We have gotten calls in the middle of the night, after there has been a serious fight, to come pick up one or both of the dogs.  Many dogs end up in Emergency Vet from dog fights.  We often hear "they used to get along so well..." 

The ideal "two-dog" situation for pet owners would be a neutered male and a spayed female.  This is generally the best combination for happy, well-adjusted companions.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I would suggest you not get another male.  They WILL fight and it may not be
pretty.  Males just do not get along and it isn't the way you raise them, it is simply a jealousy problem.  Its something like trying to put two stallions together. They may get along for a while but sooner or later you will have a disaster on your hands. I'd suggest you neuter your male and find a nice female to be spayed and his companion and yours for life.

1. Build a new fence
2. Fix the existing fence
3. Extend the existing fence 

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Casey, have you done any investigation into owning a White Doberman?  Be sure that you are getting a dog that is healthy and has good temperament first and foremost, regardless of color.  There are lots of Dobermans in Rescue that will make wonderful companions and won't cost as much. 

At any rate you should not bring any dog into a yard that isn't secure.  Either fix/replace the fence of don't let the dog in the yard would be my recommendation.

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A: from Anna Browning, Windsor Dobermans, USA

 If your fencing is coming down in 2 places, chances are that it might be weak in other areas as well.  You might consider replacing the fence.  BEFORE bringing any dog home, please make sure that your fencing is secure.  Having done rescue for many years, dogs in a new home can be confused and search the fence lines.

 As I'm sure you know... Dobes are not good "backyard" dogs.  They want to with people, and that means indoors with you.  They don't do well being isolated and can tend to develop some bad habits if left to their own resources (digging, barking, etc.).  You should make sure you have adequate time and indoor facilities for your new dog.

As a last thought.... have you really researched the "white" Doberman?  There is excellent information on the Doberman Pinscher Club of America's website (www.DPCA.org).  We have rescued 3 white Dobermans in our rescue group, and unfortunately, all were deemed unadoptable due to health or temperament problems.  White Dobermans are more sensitive to sunlight due to their pigment and light eye color.  I encourage you to do your research before rewarding White Doberman breeders (they truly are a genetic anomaly).

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REPLY:  from Casey Robertson

Thank you for showing me the DPCA's article on Albino Dobermans.  This has convinced me NOT to go ahead with the purchase of a white Doberman.  If there is any way you can help me find the right dog for me, I would be greatly appreciative.  I can't wait to actually love and care for a black & tan Dobe.

Every vet has different criteria for cropping ears.  I would first of all make sure that the vet you've chosen is well versed in cropping DOBERMAN'S ears.  A beautiful ear crop can enhance the look of the dog while a bad crop will permanently take away from their beauty.  At our practice we've cropped puppies as late as 14 weeks... depending on the individual puppy and the aftercare that the owner will commit to. 

Ear taping can be a lengthy ordeal.  While some puppy's ears will stand quickly, others may take several months of weekly wrapping to stand properly.  Unfortunately, there's no way to know ahead of time how long the weekly wrappings will take until the ears stand up permanently. 

We have one puppy that was wrapped until she was over a year of age.  Another pup just finished with her ear wrapping at 6 months of age.  The longer the ear, the longer the wrap time (as a general rule)... however, nothing ruins the head of a Doberman more than a short, utilitarian crop.  Longer, elegant ears are nice, but do require more of a commitment.

 Hope this helps...

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A: from Susanne Smith, Alpha Dobermans, USA

Older pups can have their ears cropped, But diligence with ear posting and taping would be imperative on your part and may take longer for the ears to stand.

A: from Susanne Smith, Alpha Dobermans, USA

Doberman puppy's ears are normally cropped between the ages of  7-10 weeks. It can be done a little later than that, but not much. It should be done by a competent veterinarian. If the puppy is older, it's probably best to leave
it's ears natural and love him for who he/she is.

This is very common in dogs of all ages. I'm not so sure that it is a bad dream per se Mike but I do suspect he may be dreaming of chasing a rabbit or another dog or what-have-you. There very well may be other replies on the site so whenever you have a chance please go to www.dpca-breedered.com/QAArchives.htm

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Mike, I don't think I would worry about this, some dogs sleep very soundly and have what I call "dreams".  I've never really know what they are or what causes them but I've had several Doberman's over the years that do the same thing.

Q: from Thad Lovelace

Date: Friday, October 24, 2003

Time: 22:23:57

Comments: Other: Blue male 3mo old, coat problems
 

I have followed your Rescue Remedy for blue Dobermans listed on the miscellaneous part of the Article Menu to the letter for the last two weeks and believe it or not I am already seeing positive results. I do have
one question; as for the measurement of  the Brewers Yeast. you ask for 7-grain. Ii cannot find that form of measurement anywhere. Can you convert that into something I can understand, like a teaspoon and a half or something? Thanks.

 

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

 

I would like to refer you to this article that is on our Articles pages, Rescue Remedy for Blues. It tells you what the author did when she couldn't find the 7-grain yeast. After looking at the article, I see that I should maybe put the original formula into the article. Even with the original however it doesn't state specific amounts. If whatever you are doing is working, keep doing it.

The original formula that I got from Rusty back in the 70's is:

• One B-Complex (we need to make certain B2 and B6 are in equal amounts) 4 times daily.
• Four 7-grain Yeast 4 times daily
• 1/4 Folic Acid (1mg size - prescription only) 4 times daily

It looks like either a tablespoon or a teaspoon is missing from the recipe and I would guess that it would be a teaspoon.
 

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Q: from Silke
Date: Friday, October 24, 2003

Time: 11:56:16

Comments: Obedience top 20

What do I have to do to get in to the top 20 obedience nomination?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

All you need to do is to win enough times I believe. Please contact Gudi Molinari at altacrest@aol.com -- I am certain that she can provide you with more information.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Silke, Your dog must receive a qualifying score in obedience of 195 or better.  This can be achieved in any class (Novice, Open or Utility).  The DPCA will track your scores according to the AKC Awards Magazine.  I am not sure of the start and finish dates but I think they are the same as in top 20 conformation.  There is also extra points given for High In Trial in both Specialty and All Breed Shows.  Points are accumulated over the months given and the top 20 pointed dogs are chosen.  Even though the DPCA keeps track of the points its a good idea to track your own also.  You can also see where you stand by going into the DPCA Web Site under Top 20 Obedience.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Pat Geske is the statistician for the DPCA Top 20 Obedience. I think she may be able to answer your question better. She can be reached at torttaylor@aol.com or you can go to www.dpca.org and find Top 20 Obedience information, I believe.

Q: from Alex

1. My boyfriend's Doberman peed on me when I took him out to go to the bathroom... what does that mean?  I didn't punish him, but he knew I was upset. 
2. The dog recently started getting bumps and thinning spots in his coat, the bumps are in his chest region and on the back of his neck

1. it may have been an accident or
2. he may have been demonstrating male dominance over you. 

I've had 2 puppies from my last litter who were on the Nutro Natural Choice and were having stool problems.  It could be too rich for the puppies.  They've since been switched to Science Diet Lamb and Rice Growth and the stools have firmed up.  Personally, I've fed Science Diet for years but I know other breeders who use other foods with good success.  The important thing is to make any food changes gradually - otherwise you'll cause stomach upset and diarrhea.  Make a change in food over a week's time ... decreasing the old food and increasing the new food until a complete change is made in a week.  This should avoid any problems.  You should see firmer stools very quickly.  Supplements can also cause soft stools.  Feed dog food only.  I soak my food until expanded and feed "elevated"... even for the puppies.  This is simply personal preference.

I feed puppies twice a day after 10 - 12 weeks (easier on the new owners to have "predictable" potty schedules!).  The amount depends on the inpidual puppy.  As they grow, their needs change.  By the time my pups are 4 months old they are eating way more (usually twice as much) than my adult dogs.  As they mature, the amount tapers down until they are eating what an adult would.  I don't like "fat" puppies nor do I like thin puppies.  You should be able to gauge their weight on a daily basis and adjust as necessary.  The labels on the food are just guidelines.

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A: from Darlene Young Darwin Dobermans, USA

Cheryl, often at this age we are still feeding three times a day but if twice a day is the best you can do then I don't see anything wrong with your schedule.  The amount seems reasonable as well.  I wouldn't worry about it unless their stools go real soft.

A: from Susanne Smith, Alpha Dobermans, USA

The schedule sounds good. You might consider changing dog foods. Some foods may be too rich for puppies. Biljac Select is excellent for firming up stools. Don't add water to it unless your puppies are fast eaters as it turns pasty and is difficult to eat after it gets soft. If stools are still too loose check with your veterinarian.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Sheryl, I would suggest you take her to see a vet and make sure she is indeed pregnant.  You don't want her to go too far over if she is.  You vet can x-ray her at the vets to see if there are puppies..

Q: from Karen

Date: Friday, October 10, 2003

Time: 08:55:17

Comments: Buying a puppy
 

Good morning. We've recently lost our dog, not a Dobe, and we need to have another dog in our life. I've been doing my research and have been trying to to speak to some breeders in my area. Only one was cooperative. I've found out that some people won't offer help, unless they are guaranteed a sale. How unfortunate to be like that.

My questions are: How healthy is the Doberman breed. Is there a high incident of early death and is there a high occurrence of cancer, and other diseases. These may sound like terrible questions but we have just lost our third giant breed dog who was too young to leave this world. They were all from known breeders who were very reputable and all our dogs had the best care possible.

Please tell me as much as possible. Thanks

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Unfortunately (and its a crying shame) some breeders aren't helpful to new buyers unless, as you say, they are guaranteed a sale first. I apologize profusely for that but I believe it is like that in all walks of life. :>((

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Thank you for your careful investigation before purchasing a Doberman for your family Karen.  Doberman Pinschers are great companions and are often referred to as the "human" dog.  They much prefer being with people to other dogs. All breeds have some health problems but in the Doberman Pinscher you are looking at some early death diseases.  These are cardiomyopathy, cancer and CVI.  All of these diseases can take your dog at an early age but there are some lines out there that are less likely to be plagued with them than others. 

You'll need to do even more  homework.  There is a breeder referral link on the DPCA website. Perhaps if you went there you might find someone in you area that will mentor you in your selection. Good luck.

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A: from Susanne Smith, Alpha Dobermans, USA

First of all, it is unfortunate if you spoke to breeders whom you feel are in it for the "sale".  I can assure you that is not the majority of reputable Doberman breeders. Most of us spend endless hours educating the public about our breed without selling a puppy. You just have to do your homework and buy from someone you feel comfortable with.  Someone who will be available to you for help long after you buy that puppy.

Secondly, Dobermans, as do most purebred dogs have their "Breed Specific" health problems. Cardiomyopathy and Cancer being the most common in our breed. Responsible breeders do extensive research and health testing before breeding, to rule out potential disease. But even with that, there are no guarantees. The best thing you can do is ask the breeders about the perspective parents' health background and what testing they have done.  Then hope (as we all do) you get a puppy that will live to a ripe old age.

I am hoping I understand what you are asking.....which I think is.....how should a Doberman puppy look??  How do you know you have a good Doberman puppy.....and a purebred Doberman??

We have a "STANDARD" that tells us and shows us what a Doberman should look and act like.  I will include our American STANDARD which describes an adult, and a puppy should follow with the same traits. 

The difference is that the puppy is smaller in stature.....the dimensions of the angles and its relation to the bones, muscles and soft tissue is slightly different.  But the basic form and description of a puppy would be the same as an adult. 

Read the description below.....it should help you understand what you should be looking for.  The legs should be straight....neither toeing in or out....the back should be "straight"....not "swayed" or "roaching" upward.  The puppy should be "deep bodied"....with the bottom of the chest reaching definitely to the elbow as you look at the puppy from the side.

The head should have "parallel planes", a proper "stop" and a full, well filled muzzle, that has good underjaw and squareness ... the shape of a "blunt wedge".

Color of the body and the markings should be proper....and the coat should be short and tight to the body....without any fuzzy or extreme undercoat.

1. http://www.dpca.org/JEC/illustrated_standard.htm
2. gradingpuppies.htm
3. selecting_conformation_puppies.htm

I hope this helps clarify things for you.  Don't hesitate to contact us again.

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A:  from: Anna Browning, Windsor Dobermans, USA

I guess I'd need more information before answering this one! First and foremost, what is this person hoping to get? A show puppy, a pet, obedience prospect? Grading is very different for all of these things.

What is her situation? Does she have a family, is she away at work all day, etc. We look at lots of things when grading a litter.... we look at conformation, temperament, attitude, movement, etc. When we watch puppies grow and
mature for weeks and weeks, we are able to determine which home would best suit a puppy. I typically don't allow puppy buyers to "pick" puppies.... Unless it's narrowed down to 2 show puppies and they are of equal temperament and quality. Since I know each puppy, I'll steer a person towards the "right" puppy for their needs and wants. For instance, I watched someone "picking" a puppy from a litter a few years ago (not one of my litters). Immediately, people are drawn towards the most outgoing, playful puppy. If they are looking for a nice family pet who is more of a "couch potato", this puppy would NOT be appropriate for their needs/wants. Yet... they picked this puppy and subsequently wanted to return it 2 months later when they said it was too "hyper" and was chewing everything in sight. This puppy went into a serious obedience home it's second time around, and is doing fabulous in this home.

I know this doesn't answer the original question, but I think more information is needed for a "good" answer!

While Dobermans do not have an undercoat, they still have "dander".  It depends on the severity of the allergy and your willingness to deal with it.  If you really want a dog, you might want to speak with an allergist first... before purchasing a dog and then discovering that it is something that you unable or unwilling to deal with.  Allergy shots might be an option for you to desensitize yourself.  There are no "hypo-allergenic" breeds of dogs.  Some are better than others, for instance, poodles seem to have less dander as they don't shed.... but they are still not hypo-allergenic dogs.

Personally, I am allergic to cats.  I found that if I touch a cat, then touch my face or eyes, I start to sneeze, become congested and my eyes swell up.  However, this has not stopped me from owning 4 indoor cats!  I have learned that after I pet my cats, I wash my hands before touching my face.  That helped.  Also... over the years, my allergies got progressively better.  The more exposure to the allergen, the more the body acclimates to it.  I now have a cat that likes to sleep on my head, and even though she's essentially on my face, I no longer sneeze, get congested or get swollen eyes.  It's taken 7 years to get to this point, but it has gotten better.

Make sure that you are prepared for the commitment of dog ownership... the good and the bad.  We get lots of dogs into Rescue because of a family member's "allergies".  Sad, but true.

Non-surgical treatment consists of sedating the bitch and using a speculum and or finger (depending on whether it can be reached with these) to open up the stricture.  It takes several treatments to open the canal.  Sometimes this does not work and surgery may be indicated.  While treatment is ongoing, the bitch needs to be on a LONG - TERM antibiotic course (can be 6-9 months of AB treatment) with a STRONG AB such as Baytril.  Baytril is not cheap.

Whenever a bitch has a difficult to treat UTI, there's generally more to it than just a UTI.  The second bitch that we were treating ultimately was sent back to the breeder, as the owners didn't want to continue dealing with the problem.  This puppy would have urine "leaking" out as she was walking (sometimes) and she had little bladder control.  I don't know if she continued treatment or if she recovered completely. 

The first bitch that we treated had her stricture opened on 4 occasions, and was on Baytril for 7 months.  She recovered completely. 

If there is a stricture, there are some who believe that whelping a litter can help open the stricture... however, I'm not sure what would happen if the canal was too tight allow for the birth of puppies.  Not sure I would want to chance it. 

Let me know if I can be of further assistance...

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Other than the obvious of keeping him/her in a warm dry place and not leaving them outside, I would just be careful about the time you let him/her outside.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Do the same as you would do for yourself.  When it's cold out and the dog goes out to exercise, make sure he doesn't stay out too long.  Keep him indoors and only brief periods outside in very cold weather.  If you take him for walks put a coat on him.  Dobes have no undercoats so they get cold just like we would being outside without a coat on.

REPLY: from Ann Green

Date: Friday, September 26, 2003

Time: 15:07:53
 

Comments: Strong Odor discharge in pregnant bitch - follow up
 

Called the vet, did an urinalysis and sure enough, there was a bladder infection going on.  Bitch is being treated with amoxicillin which should be safe for a pregnant bitch.  Thanks for your responses.
 

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Q: from Ann Green

Date: Monday, September 22, 2003

Time: 16:20:57

Comments: Strong odor discharge in pregnant bitch

 

I have a bitch who is 20 days away from whelping.  She has had a vaginal discharge all along which is slimy, egg white consistency, sometimes clear and sometimes cloudy and strong in odor.  The odor is towards a high ammonia content.  She drinks normal amounts of water.  She eats normally, her demeanour is normal and has energy and nothing seems to be affecting her health.  The vet said she has an infection but does not want to give her antibiotics because of her pregnancy.  This is her second litter, she is 5 years old and the sonogram has shown 5 puppies.  Any suggestions?

 

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

 

I would say that you have to trust your vet but if there is an infection going on I would think there is an antibiotic that is safe to give.  I would think about possibly getting another vets opinion.  Maybe it's not anything to worry about but I'd be a little concerned if there is indeed an infection.
 

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

If the color is egg white and slimy that is just an indication she is very pregnant.  I look for this sign between the 5th and 6th week as a sure sign of pregnancy.  I worry if I don't see it and some bitches are so clean you only see it when they urinate, while others have a copious discharge.

If the color stays the same and isn't a yellow, green, red, or black it sounds like nothing is wrong.  No temperature I assume?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

 

I am not so sure that any of us should be answering this question and maybe you should seek the advice of another veterinarian. It seems like there must be something that you can do. Some discharges are normal and okay. In fact
it is a sign of pregnancy if the discharge is clearish to milky white. I think that your vet can do some testing of the discharge to find out what kind of an infection it is or isn't. Did he do that? Did he do a culture? It seems to me that there has to be a safe medication to give her if she has an infection. A good article to read is on our web-page, click on Changes In The Bitch And Foetus.
 

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Q: from Sandra Chitwood Date: Sunday, September 21, 2003

Time: 19:29:00

Comments: Doberman Health

 

I am the proud owner of a Blue Baby girl Dobie.  She recently turned a year old and my main health concern of hers is her constant flaking skin and hair shedding.  We have tried many different types of food, shed-stops, vitamins and consulted her vet. The vet said it was due to her having worms and her immune system not coping well thus coming out in the form of bad skin. 

 

She is up to date on her shots and in good health except the problem with her skin.  I know this is probably bothersome to her otherwise I'd just go on with life.  Is there such a thing as doggie eczema?  Is there anything short of lotioning her every day that I can do to fix this itchy baby girl of mine?  Thanks.
 

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

 

Didn't your breeder tell you that Blues have coat problems?  Most (not all) Blues lose their coats by 3 years of age if not a lot sooner.  It's because they are a double dilution and there are a few things you can do to try.  I think there might be a diet put on our web site by Marj Brooks.  If not, hopefully Marj will respond to your post.
 

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
 

We have a very good article on our Breeders Education pages about blue Dobermans. Click here to read it
Blue Doberman Alopecia Treatment/Diet. Also does she have dry skin? You can treat that both topically and with the diet. First read this article about the blue (and fawn) Doberman and see if it helps you at all.

 

Besides coming back slowly from the worming and the other veterinary treatments, she could be at the beginning stages of what is common for blue Dobermans. If it is this alopecia, you are catching it in it's beginning stages and can maybe stop the process. Anyway, take a look at the article mentioned above as well as Rescue Remedy For BLUE Dobermans.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

 

The only experience I've had with diluted coat problems is to give them a supplement called melatonin which is given in tablet form and found at most drug stores.  You give them two tablets twice daily for 30 days and then stop for two months.  You should probably check with a vet first before trying any suggested supplements.
 

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Q: from Chad
Date: Saturday, September 20, 2003

Time: 23:43:05

Comments: Doberman Conformation/Handling
 

I have just adopted a 1 year old Doberman male with uncropped ears. His ears do not lie against his cheeks like most Dobies, the base flares out like batwings while the tips flop and point down. What caused this? Is this common among Dobies and can this still be corrected? If so, how?

 

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

 

Actually, in my opinion your dogs ears would have stood rather easily had they been cropped in the first place.  I think he has a great ear set and the ears are almost trying to stand without even being cropped.  I've seen that often in uncropped dogs and while you might not think it's attractive I would not worry about it.  There is nothing that can be done to correct it and I would love the dog for his unique expression and ear carriage that makes him different from most uncropped dogs.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

 

Yes, this is quite common.  You will get a variety of ear carriages with uncropped ears. In those countries where ears are not cropped, the owners tape them so they hang properly.  I have never seen this done and wouldn't know what to tell you.  We crop all our dogs at 7 weeks. I doubt your dogs ears will ever hang to the sides of his head after all
this time.
 

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A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Kennels, Canada

Please go to any of the following links for Taping Natural ears:

 

Ears To You by SixStar Danes

Massaging - The World Wide Boxer

Taping - Brindle Hill Bostons

Taping - The World Wide Boxer

Taping - Apex Boxers

Taping - Burlywood Collies

Taping  - Giant Schnauzers

Taping the NATURAL ear erect - Phi-Vesta Via Cardigan Wesh Corgis

Taping the NATURAL ear erect - Crestar Chinese Crested

 

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Q:  from Cris Mattsen

Date: Friday, September 19, 2003 

Time: 15:25:46
 

Comments: Doberman Health
 

My 3 year old Doberman vomits, in my opinion, often. (once a week or so) It is always a small amount, of greenish colored mucus. Our vet seems unconcerned, and I have been told this is common to the breed.  He is not under weight, seems completely healthy, (besides his breath) and this is nothing new, it has been happening for well over a year.  Any Comments???

 

A:  from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

 

Well the obvious is does the dog eat grass?  Are you feeding anything that could cause the color to be green?  Do you give ice cubes?  Is there any addition to his diet or vitamins that are given just before he vomits?  Does he vomit just mucus or is it undigested food?

It may be nothing but I'd find out the reason.  To say this is particular to the Doberman breed is hogwash.  Have you done any test for liver or kidney problems?

I'd get a second opinion.  If everything checks out, then I'd not be too concerned.
 

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A:  from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

I would say that if your veterinarian is not too concerned and the dog checks out healthy, I wouldn't worry too much. My Dobermans will do this too and to tell you the truth, I have no idea how often, but they eat grass and stuff and
sometimes they will vomit the same substance that you describe with a tiny piece of grass in it. I don't worry about this type of substance and I don't really think it is a breed thing. I have Dachshunds too that will gag up the same thing and I have had cats do it too over the years.

About the bad breath, check his teeth. Are they clean or do they need cleaning? You can regularly brush his teeth for a better smelling breath and also for the health of his teeth. You can give him a raw meaty knuckle bone too (outside of course) and that will help. Maybe some of the other answers will be more helpful.

 

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A:  from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

I wonder if your dog is vomiting up bile at the same time every day.  Sometimes when their stomachs are empty and it's close to dinner time they will spit up.  Certain foods seem to contribute to this more than others.  Also if he's grazing on grass a lot that will upset his stomach and also cause spitting up.  If it is close to meal time that he does it you might move the time span a little closer between meals or you might give him some dog cookies close to the time he usually spits up and then feed him at his normal time. Hope this helps.
 

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Q: from Dean

Date: Thursday, September 18, 2003

Time: 14:13:57

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

 

What natural food do I feed my pregnant Doberman and what supplements should I add.  I would use pet foods but the dog gets a rash so I prefer natural food.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

I myself feed a natural, raw diet to my dogs and I just raised a litter feeding this way. For a guide I used the book Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats, The Ultimate Diet by Kymythy R Schultze. You can get this book at www.dogwise.com or at Borders or Barnes and Noble. The book costs under $10.00 and it is a easy book to read and understand. Since your girl is pregnant you need to get this going as soon as possible. The book will tell you what supplements to add and everything else that you may need to know.

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Q: from Terri

Date: Thursday, September 18, 2003

Time: 01:21:32

Comments: Doberman Health

 

I keep my Doberman in a kennel that sits on cement. Her elbows are starting to callus. What sort of padding do I need to put inside her kennel to avoid this?  Thank you.
 

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

 

I like to use raised beds for my dogs.  I call them trampoline beds but that is my term.  You can purchase these beds (made with a web-like fabric and pvc piping) from vendors at dog shows or through many online pet supply groups.  They are fairly reasonable and they are great during hot or cold days as it gets the dog off the cement.  You can soften the elbows with a vaseline.

 

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA
 

You can get her a nice soft bed to lay on in the kennel and hope that she lays on it. There are a lot of things that you can do. You can buy rubber-like padding from a pet catalogue or something similar from Home Depot (or a store such as those) and pad the kennel or a large area in the kennel run.

 

I personally would try the bed and put it where she likes to spend her time laying down. I don't know where you live, but if you have a Costco in your area, they sell a nice bed for a reasonable price.

 

You can also try an Igloo or a dog house with a bed in it or even straw works too.

For her elbows, clean them and make sure that they are not infected with ingrown hairs. If they are infected, which it doesn't sound like they are, take her to the vet. If they are not, you can put bag balm on them everyday and rub it in. That too will help the hair grow back in and hopefully will help prevent the elbows to get more calluses.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

 

There are many crate pads available in Pet stores or on line.  I'd get one with thick padding but Dobes are known chewers so be very careful she does not chew and get an obstruction.

I'd raised the crate off the cement to keep her from getting cold or damp. You didn't mention how long she is being crated.  Dogs shouldn't be crated for hours on end.  A few hours during the day or at night is ok, but that should be the extent of it.
 

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Q: from Leah Hartlep

Date: Wednesday, September 17, 2003

Time: 00:23:35

Comments: Doberman Health

 

I have a 20 month old red bitch.  She has a beautiful coat - except on her chest, where she's VERY sparse.  Her thyroid T4 and TSH came out fine, she's on a premium food (Innova), and her kennel is well padded.

I've had some people tell me that red bitches (as a rule) have sparser hair coats and that the thinning on her chest isn't something I should worry about but I can't help it - it bothers me.  I'd appreciate any input you can provide!  Thanks in advance!

 

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA
 

Many pups don't have a lot of hair on chest and belly.  We've pretty much bred out thick coats and undercoats on our Dobes.  If she seems otherwise healthy and is not losing hair on flanks or top of back or anywhere else, I really wouldn't worry about it.  In winter, she may grow it back.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Your bitch could have sparseness in her coat due to several reasons.  Thyroid would only be one possible cause.  I think diet can have a contributing factor, perhaps trying a different food might help.  There is also a supplement called melatonin that is given to dogs with allergy related coat problems as well as alopecia.  You can see a vet specialist as there are ones out there that deal primarily with coat issues.  Also, if the coat is only sparse in the loin area, it's most likely due to hormonal reasons and I have never found a cure for that problem as even spaying does not help. 

Back to the thyroid, however, sometimes a dog can test pretty much in the normal range but be symptomatic and vet will try supplementing the dog.  Have you discussed this with your vet?
 

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Q:

from Gerri Peter

Date: Tuesday, September 16, 2003

Time: 00:03:42

Comments: Doberman Health

We noticed a lump in the throat area and the neck area of our 7 yr old, healthy female Doberman in May 2003.. It was surgically removed in May. The biopsy was benign. In July more lumps developed in the neck, hip and leg area...these were surgically removed and were benign. In Sept. more lumps appeared and quickly erupted...bloody discharge and raw looking skin area. Culture and biopsy revealed pylogranulomtous cellulitis and ulcerative dermatitis. She was then put on clavamox for two weeks with not much improvement...no new lumps but all lumps that first appeared in Aug. are slowly erupting and draining bloody discharge and raw appearing skin is apparent. She was then switched to Baytril which we are now continuing into the 3rd week. We will see the Vet again on Sat 20th Sept.

She is off her food slightly but still eating fairly well. She does not seem uncomfortable but started drinking more water than usual two days ago. I am keeping in touch weekly with Veterinarian and will see him again on Sat. He is concerned that the skin eruptions have not cleared up after 4 weeks of antibiotics and mentioned the possibility of testing for Cushings disease which scared me to death.

Do you have any suggestions or do you know of similar happenings in Dobermans? All suggestions are appreciated. Thank you very much. MGP

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

 

It sounds like a Dermatology Specialist might be the best way to go for a second or third opinion. You might also go into some of the Veterinarian web sites and type in her diagnosis for more information.  Other than that, I personally have not heard of this condition. Good luck.

REPLY September 16, 2003  :

Thank you for your prompt reply to my question regarding our female Doberman's skin problem. We returned to the Veterinarian this morning...decided not to do "the wait and see for another week".  She was tested for Cushings disease and hopefully this will be negative.  If negative for Cushings the Veterinarian plans to treat her for panniculitis with prednisone.

I appreciate your reply and suggestions.  Hopefully for our Dobie's sake and ours the possibility of panniculitis will be the problem and not Cushings. We are keeping our fingers crossed and hoping for the best for her and that she will be improving soon. We feel comfortable she is in good hands with our Veterinarian but should she not respond and show big improvement very soon we will consult a board certified Veterinarian specializing in Dermatology.  Thanks again. 

REPLY September 27 2003  :

Update to my email of 9/16/03.  Further testing and review of lab tests by the lab's Dermatologist Specialist confirmed the diagnosis was indeed panniculitis. Our  Dobie is  responding beautifully to prednisone/antibiotics ... improvement seen within 3 days after prednisone started. Apparently canine panniculitis is rarely seen.   Our Veterinarian was convinced  our Dobie's diagnosis was panniculitis and had the lab's Dermatology specialist review all biopsies, slides, etc to verify/confirm diagnosis of panniculitis which was missed on initial lab reports.  Hope this info will help pet owners should their pet have similar problems.    MGP 

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