Q & A Archives - DPCA Breeders Education

One thing I'd like to make clear is these are NOT White dogs. They are ALBINOS. The DPCA ran extensive testings from some of the country's leading geneticists and found this to be so.

Health problems include: Skin cancer. Photophobia, lesions other than skin cancer, temperament problems in many. They are so inbred that all these traits have become fixed. No one that breeds quality, healthy Dobermans would ever breed to, buy or sell one of these mutated dogs.

Judy Doniere
(former Chair of the DPCA Albino Committee)

I'm trying to find out information on a breeder from the 50's to 70's by the name of Mrs. Bouchey (Phoenix, AZ). I believe her kennel name was Ari Dobi but I'm not sure. My dad had a dog she produced who finished at 9 mo. and my parents later bought a bitch from her. I'd like to find out anything I could about her dogs or their lines. I believe they were out of CH Rancho Dobi's Storm.

Q: from SGT Jacob T. Ista USAR
Date: Tuesday, May 17, 2005
Time: 11:46 PM

Comments: Health

My Doberman is a year and a half and absolutely beautiful, However, about a 3 weeks ago I noticed her left side was covered in bumps. Within a day or so her other side was covered as well. Now my wife is a veterinary technician so we have access to a doctor almost all the time. So when she looked at her sides she said that it was probably just hives and nothing to worry about, that we would keep a close eye on her.

A week later the bumps were not as bad on her sides, still there, but were now starting to travel down her legs and onto her chest. It was at this time the started to bother her. (Rahja) I took her in to see the vet and he prescribed Prednisone. She is almost finished with the script and the bumps are almost gone.

Now here is where my question comes in. 2 days ago we noticed bad, and I mean bad, dandruff. So now we are battling that one. She receives Omega-3 daily. I took her outside to brush her and get some of the flakiness out and noticed that I got a lot of it, but but that here hair was starting to thin and when I was done within 15 min. the bumps were back. That was this afternoon and this evening there almost gone again but the dander remains. My question is, I use a rubber hand brush that has little nubs all over it. Has anyone known of a Doberman or dog for that matter to be allergic to rubber? and what can I remedy her situation with?

Sorry this is so lengthy.

I assume your Vet has done several scrapings to make sure it's not a Staph infection?

Dobes do not need brushing. If you want to "clean" them, take a wash cloth in warm water, rung out and wiped over the coat. A rubber curry is better than a bristle brush but it's really not needed until she is older and shedding. This will also cause coat problems due to slight scratches it may leave and then it's possible they are susceptible to staph.

Prednisone is good but it's a cover up. You should find the cause. Pred in a pup is to be done only as the last resort.

I have a female Dobe that is nearly four months now. Whenever I take her outside she barks at everyone who walks by whom she doesn't know or when someone comes to my door she barks and growls. To me this seems like good guard dog instincts but is this typical in a four month old Dobe. Is it a negative for her to be anti social. Once she sees me talking to the strangers she is friendly but I see other puppies that are just friendly with everyone. I've read other posts of people who say their puppies go with everyone and many people have said that's good. What do you guys think?

The answer to this could depend on the tone of her bark or voice. Does she sound firm or does she sound scared or afraid? You say that once you accept and are talking to the person that she is friendly and that is good. Normally though, 4 month old puppies should be naturally friendly.

Right now pay particular attention to what is said for the 5th critical period which is now for your puppy. Of course read the preceding periods and about the following ones. I believe that this article will help you with your puppy and as you will see, this time is an important time for you and your puppy.

No, it is not typical in a 4 mo. old puppy. A pup this age should be very social. It's only when the dog hits adult age does he/she decide who is a friend and who is to be regarded as suspicious.

I would start taking the pup to Obedience classes. Young pups can be socialized easier and many clubs have a kindergarten classes with some Obedience as starter courses.

Q: from Mark Eukers
Date: Monday, May 16, 2005
Time: 7:30 PM

Comments: Health

My 9 year female Dobie has severe arthritis. Her left rear leg is not not being used. She is currently on a pain killer- low to medium dosage. Are there any worthwhile treatment options?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Mark:

I'm sorry to say that we can not offer medical advise. You really need to talk to your veterinarian about other alternatives.

I have given to my dogs a daily supplement of Glucosamine (helps maintain the health and the structure and function of the joints), Chondroitin with MSM to my dogs although they don't have acute cases. From what I understand the MSM helps with the inflammation. I also understand that it you give primrose oil too, it will aid in the lubrication of the joints. I do have a Dachshund that suffers with arthritis and this definitely helps him. I can tell, because if a couple of days go by where I forget to give it, he shows signs of discomfort and moves around slower. When I give it again, I notice a big difference in a day. Vitamin E and Vitamin C are also helpful to give.

You can ask your veterinarian about it. I personally like to try these kinds of supplements before I resort to pain killers such as Rimadryl and some of the others.

Also, if it is only affecting the one rear leg, could there be something else wrong? You can have someone check to see if the hip is in place or is where it is supposed to be too. It may take just a simple chiropractic manuever by a professional to check this and put it back into place.

Our 1 year old Lab is excessively licking her paw pads. Two pads are completely worn raw. Please advise an ointment and/or treatment.

We can not give veterinarian advice on this Doberman Sponsored Website. You should contact your veterinarian for the proper medical treatment. Having said that, is there some type of chemical that your puppy is coming in contact with? You might want to check your yard out. Also is she running on a roughly paved surface that could cause irritation?

You need to go see your veterinarian and have this checked out. Do you live in an area where there are foxtails? This could be anything, maybe an allergy so please have it checked.

I have an eight month old Doberman puppy. I just noticed that she has 4 weird spots on her body. They are not very big, looks like dead skin lost hair, hard, rough. I noticed she used to have one only on her side, now there are 3 more (two on her side, one on her leg).

No these spots are not normal for a Doberman. You do need to go to the veterinarian and have them checked out so they can be properly treated.

Go to the veterinarian and have them checked out. There is not way to be able to diagnose her over email.

Thanks so much for getting back to me so quickly regarding where to find a pet quality puppy.

One of you asked where I was from. I'm in the SE pocket of PA - in Delaware County. I'm 10 miles from DE and NJ. I believe the nearest Dobe club for me might be Quakertown.

However, in the past, none of the officers have responded to my inquiries, and now they no longer have email links. I did try on numerous occasions to contact them. I will try the links that you sent.

And I COMPLETELY agree with the screening of prospective owners. I would be more than happy to have them visit my home, query my vets, etc. It's so important to make certain that a new owner is the correct "fit" for one of those precious little muffins.

"One of you asked where I was from. I'm in the SE pocket of PA - in Delaware County. I'm 10 miles from DE and NJ. I believe the nearest Dobe club for me might be Quakertown."

"And I COMPLETELY agree with the screening of prospective owners. I would be more than happy to have them visit my home, query my vets, etc. It's so important to make certain that a new owner is the correct "fit" for one of those precious little muffins."

I need to say again here that you need to study and learn and interview the breeder about your concerns. Please be sure that the parents have been tested for all of the inherent health issues that plague the Doberman so you can be assured that sound breeding decisions have been made regarding the health of the offspring. You need to ask. I think that in my answer that I gave to you previously I listed the health testing that should be done. You need to ask the breeder anything that you can think of. I always tell people that no question is a dumb question.

Another thing that you should know about us breeders is that we are there to help you and your puppy for all of it's life. You need to have a good working relationship with the breeder and think of this relationship as family. Look for articles on our pages about finding a breeder and about what a good breeder really is, etc.

I've rescued/adopted a 10 week old female Dobe puppy from a person who had an unplanned litter and put little or no effort in placing the pups in homes. (No, I didn't pay for it and contribute to the backyard breeder problem)

My question revolves around the dam's temperament. She was very aggressive and territorial of the property and had to be confined when I was there. The sire was a gentle and sweet giant.

Is temperament genetic and is it possible for this little girl to have agression in her genes? I'm well aware of and plan to do plenty of socialization, puppy classes, etc....but at the end of the day, could the genes take over no matter what?

She's been outgoing among the litter and very happy and loves to be handled. I've had her for one day only and she's growled once at my neighour's dog and once at my Pomeranian. (Could be because of nervousness in her new environment, she's been very cautious when brought to her new home)

I'm very excited to work with her but wanted to find out if my efforts might be worthless because of the dam's temperament. Thanks.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Coco,

No, they both have sweet temperaments as a rule but there is a difference in the temperament of colors. Don't know why but generally speaking, the blacks may be a little more laid back than the red bitches but the reds are always thinking of things to do (some good and some not so good, LOL) I can only say that to own a red bitch is quite an experience and most will want to do it all over again. We also love our blacks. I have one of each and they are different but I love them differently as well.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

I do not feel there is any difference in temperament based on color in our breed. Sure there is always the joke among us exhibitors and breeders that "He's a red male" or "He has red male syndrome" but those are jokes. There are some breeds that indeed to have different temperaments based on coat but personally I don't see it in out breed that often.

In my opinion, they do not. All of the colors are bred from the same Standard of the Ideal regarding temperament.

I personally have had a little theory about the colors and it is more of a visual thing. The red & rust color appears to the eye as a softer color than the black & rust, so physiologically the color can trick ones mind into thinking that a red & rust Doberman is gentler than the black & rust Doberman. I have known persons to prefer black & rust Doberman's for this very reason, believe it or not.

Another little myth and a lot of us call our red and rust Dobermans "red heads" because we think that they are more fiery but that is in our heads too, because sometimes people think that red headed people are different in temperament which of course if they are, it has nothing to do with hair color.

This is my opinion. This is a fun question and you are liable to get a few different opinions with your question.

Q: from Ben
Date: Monday, May 9, 2005
Time: 2:23 PM

Comments: Temperament

My male Dobe just turned 5 months. When we are at home he follows me everywhere, from room to room and is very obedient. When I take him out to be socialized, he seems to prefer playing with everyone else, including strangers, rather than me. He no longer wants to be by my side nor listens to my commands. Is this behavior normal for a puppy? It just worries me because it seems like he will go home with any one who wants to take him. And everyone loves him because he is so friendly. Will he grow out of this? I've seen other dogs who won't leave their owners side and was wondering if I can expect this from my Dobe. Thanks!

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

It sounds like you have a perfectly normal, well adjusted puppy. "Don't try to take this out of him. He'll be just fine and for heaven's sake don't try to scold him or pull him away from people. He'll grow up knowing who he should be leery of and who not. A pup at this age that won't go to other people would be possibly a shy pup and will not end up with a correct temperament.\

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Ben:

I think your puppy sounds like he has an outstanding and normal temperament. He is very well socialized and that is exactly what you want from him at this age. He is inquisitive about what is going on around him and I would encourage him to investigate. His loyalty will increase with you as he grows and matures.

Your 5 month old appears to be acting normal for his age right now. In fact, you want this behavior at this time. I would like to refer to you the article Super Dogs Are Made Not Born, that is on our pages. This article tells you about all of the periods of a puppy's life and it also tells you what to do and what not to do during these times. I recommend that you print the long article (which was a book, really) and have it available to refer to as your puppy grows in and out of the various stages.

Actually, if you want a dog that won't leave your side, you can train him to do this by teaching him obedience (heeling). He is old enough to enrol in a puppy kindergarten obedience class. Call your local dog training club for information about such a class.

Right now, allow him to be friendly and greet people. Don't pull him away. By doing this you are giving him the message to be leery or afraid of people or whatever you are pulling him away from. You need to allow him to investigate. When he does investigate, go to him and tell him to "check it out" and praise him. After you do this, move on and continue what you were doing with him. If you should want to move him away from a person after you do all of the praising, etc. give him another exercise to do such as
"let's go for a walk" or something positive and something to do to get his mind off of the person. It is all about training.

You will need to train him to come to you when called. When he does praise him to give him a good reason to obey and come to you. Use a positive reinforcement kind of attitude with him. Find a trainer that can help you with this as well and like I said before a class. Also find a class that will teach you how to train your dog.

Enjoy your puppy who is a work in progress. He needs to learn what you want of him and be trained starting now.

Q: from Irene
Date: Sunday, May 8, 2005
Time: 3:03 PM

Comments: Grading the Puppy

I am going to get a puppy from a breeder who's dad is red and mom is black and rust. What color will the puppies be? Will this produce any medical conditions I should know about. I would like more answers to these questions. Thanks

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Irene,

You may have all blacks or some blacks and some reds or even some fawns and blues. Unless you know the color type of the parents, it is impossible to tell what colors they carry as either a recessive (red) or dilutes ... (fawns and or blues). There is no problem due to the colors. I would hope both parents have all their health tests completed. OFA for hips and elbows, vWD, Thyroid, heart echo as well as CERF for eyes and other tests to determine health.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Irene,
Wow, I wish that we could use the phone on this question. Let me start out to say that all breeding stock should be tested for all of their inherent diseases that plague the Doberman. You need to ask the breeder if the sire and the dam have been tested for vWD, had a full thyroid panel run by a qualified lab, hip and elbow x-rayed, and had the heart tested which there are two tests. With this testing breeding decisions can be made from the results of this testing.

For health articles about Doberman health click here. We also have on our articles pages more about Doberman health issues.

The color that will result depends on the genetic makeup for color. The breeder should know the possibility for colors. There is also a color chart on our pages that you can print out and study.

If a blue or a fawn puppy is expected, you can then read the articles that we have on our pages about the dilution colors.
http://www.seattle-attorney.com/storm/sup.html
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/alopecia_remedy.htm

I hope that this is helpful in your education about your new puppy. You should be able to get these answers from your breeder and you will need to interview the breeder as the breeder should interview you. Your breeder should be one of your mentors.

There are many combinations that can occur from this breeding and it all depends on whether or not the parents carrier the dilution gene. Please check out this color chart from the DPCA website http://www.dpca.org/color.chart.5.html. Most often the puppies will be a combination of reds and blacks. However, if dilution is present in BOTH parents you could get reds, blacks, blues and fawns.

As for medical problems, color should not be a complete factor in determining the possibility of medical problems in a litter. There is a risk with Fawns and Blues of losing coat but other than that I don't think they carry any great degree of medical problems.

Q: from Velda Miller
Date: Friday, May 6, 2005
Time: 12:56 PM

Comments: house training

My daughter's male Pomeranian is one years old and has a problem of marking his place in my home. She and I often find the same places in my home as his place to mark; we clean the area very thoroughly and observe the dog carefully, but cannot catch him in the act. What can be done about this behavior, other than walking him to the place to go to the bathroom and giving him a treat following? My daughter and I needs direction in this problem.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

You'll have to start from the beginning again as if you just got an new puppy. Crate training is a must. Take him out right from the crate to potty outdoors and then give a treat and bring him right in. You must watch him like a hawk. After about an hour, take back out doors to potty, and put back in the crate. Keep doing this and make sure you crate him at night. Carry him outdoors or put him on a lead so he can't run through the house before he goes outside to potty. Just like you were house breaking a new pup.

There is an article on our pages about housebreaking for you to refer to with this problem. I would think about housebreaking him over again. Here are a couple of the articles that are on our articles page.

Also, if this idea doesn't work, you can buy a band for him to wear in the house that covers his penis and sheath area. You can get this from Bob and Gloria Lettsinger at sunnyhilldesigns@sbcglobal.net.

Q: from Christine P
Date: Thursday, May 5, 2005
Time: 11:23 PM

Comments: New family member

I have a very large family of pets. These pets include one Siamese cat, one Chihuahua, and one Rhodesian Ridgeback. We raise our pets as children. I have always wanted a Doberman but have waited until I could either take the Doberman to work with me or be able to stay home. My question is whether or not a Doberman would fit into our family at this time, or do I need to wait until the oldest (the Chihuahua) has passed? All of the pets at this time were raised together and get along very well.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

If you got a Dobe puppy and IF your other dogs would accept him/her, then it should work out just fine. If they aren't aggressive towards puppies and you introduce the puppy slowly and make sure it doesn't jump on your Chihuahua and scare it, or the Ridgeback accepts the pup, no problem.

Q: from concerned pet owner
Date: Thursday, May 5, 2005
Time: 3:22 PM

Comments: Health

My Dalmation Black Lab mix is having some health problems right now. She is behaving very odd. She is a very hyper and active dog, and this morning she was just laying around whimpering. So I would like to know what may be wrong with her,, or if you have any suggestions. Thank you.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

TAKE HER TO YOUR VET! Sounds like something is wrong. We can't answer questions on sick animals, I'm sorry.

Q: from Sam
Date: Thursday, May 5, 2005
Time: 2:38 PM

Comments: (Other)

My question is regarding the Doberman's instinctive behavoir to protect his "pack" My 3 year old, altered Dobe does not appear to be aggressive towards people as he is well socialized. Even without formal protection training, if the time ever arose- would he protect me if need be?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Chances are he would protect you but than again, he may run the other way. You can take him through a DPCA WAE test to get some idea or have him evaluated by a good trainer.

Your 3 year old male's dog aggressive behavior is fairly common. You are most likely not ever going to be able to trust him around other male dogs. Strict training can control this behavior to a degree. I would recommend a good obedience trainer that knows the Doberman and knows this kind of dog aggressive behavior to help you and your Doberman.

A correct Doberman or a working dog must listen and follow your command (be obedient). He must have what I call a "off" button.

There is a fine line there in our breed in what we want for temperament. We want them to own the ground of which they stand, but on the other hand we want them to be able to work and follow command. An uncontrollable, dog aggressive Doberman would not make for a good working dog. A Doberman with a correct temperament should immediately stop whatever he is engaged in with the strong command of "NO!" from his handler, which is you. Imagine a working Doberman suspended in the air going for an object, i.e.; dog, man or whatever, and with the command "no!" he should drop to the ground and stop for the best possible score. Here are some articles to read:

Go through our article page for many great articles to learn about the Doberman.

Anyway, back to your question ... it is possible that this behavior can be trained to be controlled but he will most likely always be dog aggressive. If it cannot be controlled by training, then you will have to always separate him from other males. You should never allow him to be un-attended around other males.

I would say "yes" your dog will be there for you if and when he is needed. This is one of the finest qualities of our breed. They seem to have a innate instinct as to when they should :be there" and when to be "watchful" . For your last question I referred you to our standard and some other articles about the desired temperament traits of the Doberman. You want them to be calm and sensible and be well mannered and even friendly around people and dogs (everything). They should be Energetic, watchful, determined, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient. We can add intelligent and courageous too.

I do think that you dog will be there for you if needed without formal protection training. For this training you dog will have to have all of the characteristics that are described above and in our Standard. For this training, your dog will go through an extensive obedience training program as he must be obedient. This training can be helpful in controlling his behavior and should only be available with a dog that has the proper temperament. Again, you will need to interview trainers and find a trainer that can help educate you with your knowledge of temperament, behavior and training.

I am trying to think of a direction to point you in to find a mentor near you. I am thinking for you to contact the United Doberman Club, http://www.uniteddobermanclub.com and also the American Working Dog Federation. You can get more information about this group from the UDC web-site above.

The bottom line is that you follow your desire to learn all that you can about behavior and temperament and the training before attempting it on your own.

Q: from Sam S.
Date: Thursday, May 5, 2005
Time: 2:35 PM

Comments: Temperament

My 3 year old, altered male Doberman is wonderful at home and with other female dogs. He will not accept or take to any male dog especially those that are not altered. He gets dominant and aggressive. Is this a behavior that is typical for a male Doberman? Is this something that can be "trained" out of him?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

This is typical behavior for a male Dobe or any large Working dog. It's a dominant thing. We breeders know better than to let 2 males together. You just don't do it. Too dangerous. Even if you could get your male "trained" to accept another male and this is very unlikely if he is like this, the "other guy" may still be aggressive. Forget about it and just keep him on lead around other males. If in Obedience or Conformation classes or shows they can be trained ignore another male but to have play time or be let loose around another male, DON'T DO IT.

Q: from Sandra M. Bennett, Wallingford, PA
Date: Thursday, May 5, 2005
Time: 12:34 PM

Comments: (Other)

I'm looking down the road here and desire to do the responsible thing. My Sugar is a 14 1/2 year old retired therapy Doberman, CGC. She is a rescue. I've had two puppies and two rescues in my 18-year history of owning, usually owning two at a time. In the future, I would like another Pet Quality puppy from a responsible breeder. Trouble is, I live in PA, and the Referral listing of the DPCA is out of date for our state. Same with Jersey, I believe. How do I contact some of the newer breeders who may have upcoming litters? Above in your "IMPORTANT" notation, you comment that you will not advise on the breeding and/or buying of puppies, but would leave that to a vet. I find that odd, as most vets do NOT have links to responsible breeders of the Doberman. Therefore, I would appreciate your advice inasmuch as the DPCA have not edited their referral sites. Thank you.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Sandra,

Would you please give us your location. There are a great many Chapter clubs in PA and NJ so it would help to know what area you are in and we can give you the name and address of the Chapter club within your area and you can contact them and ask for breeders and references.

REPLY: from Gloria Pascoe
Date: Saturday, April 30, 2005
Time: 10:08 AM

Comments: Health

Thank you for your comments. My dog is going in for x-rays and a barium meal on Tuesday. There is a slight possibility that the stitches inside could be loosening/undoing, or he is suffering from colic. He had a good night last night and was happier this morning. One would think that 5 weeks after a Gastroplexy he would be well and truly over the worst. We just hope that it is nothing serious as we would hate to put him through another major operation at his age. We have done everything by the book and are at a total loss by these happenings. I will let you know the outcome.

My 9 year old male Doberman had a Gastroplexy some 5 weeks ago. He was recovering very well up until 8 days ago. He sleeps in our bedroom in his own bed. Every night he is restless pacing the room, intermittent panting and just does know what to do with himself, tries to lie down with his front legs stretched out with his head resting on them. We concluded that perhaps he was bloating just enough to cause discomfort and not be life threatening, so the vet has prescribed some pills (Antipepsin), to be taken up to four times a day one hour before food, this worked the first night, but we are now back to square one again. I am at a complete loss so is, I think, the vet. I am taking my dog for a complete physical check up today. Have you every heard of these sort of problems after a Gastroplexy?

Thanks.

I personally have not had this experience. I am glad that you have an appointment for him and are going to the vet today. This is what I would have recommended for this.

I hope that you get an answer today and your guy is okay. Have you been advised of preventative things to do for example to have your dog be calm and quiet (no hard play or running) for a certain time before and after eating. Ask your veterinarian about preventative measures too. There may be an article on our pages too about this.

Gloria, the best thing you can do is the complete check up with your veterinarian. The last thing you want is for your dog to bloat. Perhaps you need to change his diet and put him on a prescription diet for a while. Or, have you recently changed his diet and he's reacting to the new diet? You have to rule out any thing that is new to him.

When entering a dog show how does one know if the judge judging your dog is a breeder judge?

This is a good question. Here are a couple of ideas. You can go to the AKC web-site, www.AKC.org, and get information about judges. Also, maybe www.infodog.com, I don't know if you can get this information though. You can ask fellow exhibitors or your handler about judges and as to whether or not they are breeders. Maybe the two judges on our panel can tell us specifically about how to find this information out.

Christine:

Go www.akc.org and look them up in the Judges directory under the "events" section.

I just adopted a female Doberman and do not know her age. I rescued her from a backyard breeder and all her front teeth seems to have been ground up to her gum line. Also her four canines are chipped, the previous owner had said that she is six but can this really happen to a six year old dog or is she older. She doesn't seem to have anything wrong with her and her color is nice (she does have some white hair on her muzzle though). I would like to know if anyone can tell how old the dog is because it is sort of hard when the canines are all chipped so it seems as though she could be 8 or 9. Does anyone have a clue?

Thanks.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

It's possible she's only 6 but she may be older. It sounds like she's been chewing rocks or something to wear down her teeth that way. I'd take her to the Vet to make sure she doesn't have any infections from those worn or chipped teeth.

Hello Jenn,
To accurately tell the age of a dog is kind of an educated guess. By the sound of her teeth and the grey muzzle she could be older. However, she could have worn her teeth down and chipped her canine teeth by chewing on hard objects such as rocks. Are the teeth at the sides of the mouth and the back of her jaw worn too? Are they discolored? Doesn't the person that you got her from know for sure how old that she is. All the person has to do is look at her AKC certificate, if she has one. She must have some sort of
record on your girl. Your vet may be able to tell you more by looking at her. A dog can have a graying of the muzzle at six years of age though and she could be close to seven years old too. I would ask the person that you got her from again and also take her to your vet and see what he/she tells you. Try to find out what kind of a life that she led too. How many litters has she had? Was she an outside dog and things like that.

Q: from Katie
Date: Tuesday, April 26, 2005
Time: 10:27 AM

Comments: Health

I am doing a project to diagnosis a cat disease. This cat has a lack of appetite, listlessness, and difficulty in breathing. Upon further examination the cat also exhibits pale gums, and enlarged lymph nodes. It said that the best recommendation is to have the organism euthanized before the disease spreads.... if you could please help me in diagnosing this disease that would be extremely helpful.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

This is a Doberman Pinscher Breeders Education website and Q & A. Please be advised you should take your cat to a veterinarian immediately.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

We don't do Cats on this list. Sorry. I'd suggest a quick trip to your Vet and let him/her decide on the best treatment.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello,

First of all I need to tell you that we cannot give veterinary advice to you about and for your cat or dog on this forum. We are not licensed veterinarians. Often times a proper diagnosis cannot be made without seeing the animal.

I have cats. With the symptoms that you describe, your cat could have a number of things. You need to take your cat to the vet today. Your cat could very well have a curable disease, if it is caught and tended to in time. Please take your cat to the vet as soon as you can.

Q: from ???
Date: Tuesday, April 26, 2005
Time: 7:06 AM

Comments: Conformation/Handling

I have had dogs all my life, this being my first Doberman. Most of the time he is great however every evening he goes into forth gear, by this I mean he turns into a wild man. He jumps he runs he play bites and he refuses to quit. No does not work, ignoring him has no effect, locking him in another room for a while and letting him back in does not work either. He is just out of control like he is in another world.

This happens regardless of whether we have taken out for a run in the park. Is this common Doberman behavior and at nine months is he just going through a teenage crisis? And no, toys do not distract him when he is hyped up either. Any advice on how to cure this?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello there:
The behavior that you are describing is not normal or correct behavior for a Doberman. Here are a few words describing Doberman temperament for the Doberman Pinscher Standard of the ideal:
a.. GENERAL APPEARANCE
The appearance is that of a dog of medium size, with a body that is square. Compactly built, muscular and powerful, for great endurance and speed. Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament. Energetic, watchful, determined, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient.

a.. TEMPERAMENT
Energetic, watchful, determined alert, fearless, loyal and obedient. The judge shall dismiss from the ring any shy or vicious Doberman.

Shyness: A dog shall be judged fundamentally shy if, refusing to stand for examination, it shrinks away from the judge; if it fears an approach from the rear; if it shies at sudden and unusual noises to a marked degree.

Viciousness: A dog that attacks or attempts to attack either the judge or its handier, is definitely vicious. An aggressive or belligerent attitude towards other dogs shall not be deemed viciousness.

By reading those words you should be able to determine that a hyper dog is not desired.

I am thinking that you should seek some professional help to learn how to deal with your young dogs hyper behavior. A good trainer and a behavioralist is the type of person to seek.

While you are searching for this help, try holding your dog still and stroking him in circular motions all over his body and including his head. This is called the Tellington Touch. You cup your hand and use your finger tips and stroke him with small circular motions. The book says counter clock wise, but I just do it and it seems to work either way. Do this until you feel him calm down. He just may just need for you to sit him down and make him be calm for a few minutes several times a day just by petting him and asking him to sit there calmly and not allow him to mouth you. This method has worked for me to calm down a dog that is so stressed that he appears to not be able to think. I just help him calm down and show him that he can.

I'm wondering if he is alone most of the day and he's just got this pent up energy that needs to be released? If not, take him outside and toss balls, Frisbees etc. and let him run until he gets tired and bored.

I'd enrol him in a structured class such as Obedience or Agility. It will give him something to do with you. Agility might be just the thing as it's fast and fun for them. Give it a try.

Q: from FutureDobeLover
Date: Monday, April 25, 2005
Time: 1:54 PM

Comments: Pricing

The pricing of Doberman puppies varies tremendously even among "reputable" breeders. For a pet pup on an altering contract, I'm running into pricing from $1K - $3K. Is this appropriate and what is the normal price range for a pup I'd want as a companion only? Thanks.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello,

Although we probably shouldn't be discussing the price of puppies on this forum, I can say this. The thousand dollar price is most likely on the low end and the 3K price is a bit much in my opinion.

You may want to consider these qualities in a reputable breeder. Are the parents and their parents tested for all of the inherent health problems that plague our breed to day so that breeding decisions are made from the results of this testing? Have the parents and grand-parents been temperament tested so that breeding decisions can be made from the results of these test. There is a lot of research and monies that must go into any breeding decision.

There is also a lot that goes into the raising of these puppies to the time that you take your puppy home in nurturing, training and animal husbandry. You must learn as much as you can about all of this and interview the prospective breeder and determine for yourself what a fair price really is.

There are articles on our pages that you can refer to learn what it takes to be a reputable breeder. Breeders are people too and they are not all alike in what they think or do. It is up to you to determine what is fair and what isn't based on what you learn about your purchase and the people that you ultimately interview and choose to buy your Doberman companion from.

I can only speak for myself about this but I do all of the above and a lot more in raising my puppies up to the day that they leave my home. I charge the same price for all of them.

Q: from Samuel
Date: Saturday, April 23, 2005
Time: 1:17 PM

Comments: AFTER EAR CROP CLEANING

Hi Mates,

I have a problem about my Doberman puppy...last week the puppy was taken to ear crop. It is very troublesome that the puppy's ears still have some blood coming out and are wet of course ... and the smell. Can any one can give me some advice, such which medicine or how to do a proper cleaning.

Thank You

Samuel:

I usually use BFI or Gold Bond Powder for the first couple days, then I go to a triple antibiotic ointment and apply it to the ear edges a couple times a day until they are healed. It's hard to tell from your description whether or not there may be an infection going on with the ears. You should have a veterinarian look at them to be sure.

When I showed my puppy at six months the breeder got him all shaved and ready. However, when I had him shown the handler did not get him ready at all -- just took him ringside. So am I wrong to think the handler should be shaving him or I am I supposed to have him ready for the handler and if so, how do I educate myself as to what gets shaved and with what no. of blade?

I have an Oster clipper and will get the proper blades if I have to but when I see all the work the handlers put into grooming long haired breeds I was expecting more from the handler. I did ask in advance but he said he does not bring clippers to the show and doesn't have time to do it anyway. Your comments please as I will be showing him next month and he does need some grooming.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Personally I don't think you are wrong to expect the handler to trim your puppy. In my opinion, that is part and parcel of what he is being paid to do.

Please check back often in order to see what the other breeders have to say about this issue.

You said that you asked your handler about grooming and he told you that he doesn't bring his clippers to the dog show and you did get your dog groomed for the show. Good for you. You need to establish this before hand just as you did. In your case, I would ask him point blank if he expects you to have him groomed and ring ready for him to handle.

I am a handler and here is what I do. I tell my people to do all that they can for grooming and I will try to do everything else. I ask them to bring the dog to the show bathed and clean. I am willing to give them grooming lessons or set them up with a groomer if they don't have the equipment. There are all sorts of ways to accomplish the grooming. They can bring them to me at home or early to the dog show. If they come the day before, I can do it then.

The bottom line is that you have to communicate with your handler about this and everything else that has to do with you and him and your dog (team) to be ready and at it's best for the show.

I am working on an article about how to groom a Doberman for show for this breeder education web-page. In the meantime here is an article about how to properly bathe your Doberman. Yes there is a proper way to do that too. You do not have to use the articles recommended shampoo but do use a shampoo that is made specifically for dogs.

To answer your question should you expect your handler to do specific tasks, I say don't assume anything ... ask and communicate with your handler and build a solid relationship of understanding. Look at it all as teamwork. If you do this and your handler just blows you off so of speak, then think about finding another handler. Again I say talk to your handler and between the two of you learn what each of you expect of one another.

Christine:

Every handler does things differently. You should discuss it with the handler directly whether or not they expect the dog to be delivered already groomed. Some handlers will charge extra to groom and some will do it at no additional cost. When you hire a handler it's like going into an agreement/contract with someone and you should discuss all issues including this, what the priorities are, how billing is done, what travel costs are you responsible for, etc.

The best thing to do if you want the handler to groom your dog is to discuss those issues with him/her long beforehand so you both understand what the expectations of each other are. I believe that if you have arranged to show up at ringside for the handler to take the dog in the ring, then you can't expect the handler to groom your dog obviously. However, if you have made prior arrangements to have the dog shown and express your desire to have the handler do the grooming, then you have to come to an understanding when you take your dog to the handler for grooming or if the handler is going to groom at his/her benching area prior to the start of the show. If the handler wants you to do the grooming then I would ask the handler to show you how when he/she has time to show you so that you may have your dog ready for him/her at ringside. The best way to learn how to groom is to first of all have someone show you, then practice yourself. Everyone does things just a little differently so the best thing is to ask your handler how to do it and then practice, practice practice.

I can't speak for any of the handlers in the US, but here in Canada most of the handlers do the grooming of the dogs they are showing at their benching areas prior to show time. No handlers groom dogs at ringside that I have ever seen.

Q: from Muna
Date: Wednesday, April 20, 2005
Time: 12:20 PM

Comments: Breeding

At what age do Dobermans become sexually active or mature and wish to breed among themselves?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Muna:

Bitches usually come into season for the first time between 6 and 12 months. They then will have a season twice a year on average. They will not breed except during those times. Males usually become interested at a very early age, some as young as 6 months.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

On their first season. DO NOT allow a male to get near her for 3 weeks from
her first day of seeing a drop of blood.

I would spay her a.s.a.p. and if you have a male, he should be neutered to
prevent prostate problems. Unless your bitch is a top show bitch, you
should have her spayed.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Muna,
Males can be ready for this as early as six months and female can be bred
and become pregnant on their first heat period, which is normally between 6
months and a year.

You will need to keep a close eye on them at this young age. Even though
they can do this and mate, it is not considered a good or healthy practice
for them to mate and have puppies at this early age.

I have posted this question on another Dobe site and got a couple of replies but would like your input as well. My problem is dremeling. I have read Dawn's site but it is rather long and involved and I can't quite get it. She recommends the lowest speed on the dremel which just seems to draw out the procedure. I have the top of line dremel, 10 speeds -- have tried low medium and high. So what speed do you folks find works best for your dogs and do you dremel across the nail holding the dremel in a horizontal or vertical position, or does it matter.

My boy nine months old puts me through hell when I try to dremel him. He has been dremeled since he was a baby but he is getting worse not better. He fights me every inch of the way and literally shakes and acts like I am killing him. Am I doing something wrong that is hurting him? I rarely nip the quick and if I do it is never anything serious.

Sorry this is so lengthy but I never got a formal lesson and keep thinking I am doing something wrong or is he just acting like a spoiled brat.

I usually use a medium to high speed on the dremel. I start by "rounding" the top of the nail, then smoothing out the tip, then a quick dremel on the underneath portion of the nail. Don't keep the dremel on the nail for very long. Light taps and quick motions are best. The longer you leave the dremel on the nail surface the "warmer" it gets and it's not a comfortable feeling for the dog.

I put a slip lead on the dog and loop one end of it around my hand so they can't bolt and I don't have to tug on their foot to keep them in place. You can also tether them to something that is steady.

Believe me, I've had my nails dremeled at the salon and if that dremel is left there too long or if it's reapplied over and over again to the same location boy does it get hot.

Q: from FutureDobeLover
Date: Sunday, April 17, 2005
Time: 11:45 PM

Comments: Temperament

I have always been interested in the Doberman as a breed and have read a lot about it and now I'm finally living in a house with a fenced yard and I am able to provide a good home for a Dobe. I would be bringing in a Dobe to a house with two Pomeranians, a 6yr old spayed female and a 5month old neutered male. The female is very independent and reserved while the boy pup is just a pup, lots of energy and hungry for attention. My question is: Which gender of Doberman would fit this situation better? I've always like the physical aspects of the males better, but I'm worried about the male Dobe hurting the male Pom. By the way, the Dobe will be altered as well. Would a female Dobe have issues with the female Pom? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Probably the recommendation you will get most often is to get a female. Male's tend to not get along with other males. Usually this is worked out if they are all neutered/spayed at a young enough age but if it's your first Doberman, I would recommend that get a female. There are great articles on the DPCA Breeders Education website. Try looking at this one http://www.dpca-breedered.com/questbuyer.htm and take a look at several others at in the articles menu.

I have had Poms over the years, both sexes, as well as Miniature Pinschers. My dober boys find it beneath them to be concerned about small dogs of either sex and my girls are great with them as well. Of course you would have to set down some guidelines for all of the dogs to follow, such as no running over the little guys, no boxing their ears, etc., etc. and on the other end of the scale, no nipping of heels but those would likely be your only issues.

Many Dobe breeders and owners have small dogs such as I have mentioned along with Dachsunds, Whippets, etc. with no problems whatsoever. I wouldn't be too concerned if I were you.

Q: from Janet Petley
Date: Friday, April 15, 2005
Time: 6:16 PM

Comments: how many months for them to have pups

Puppies are born from 59 to 63 days after breeding has taken place. There are some excellent books on the market and in libraries that you would do well to get your hands on or buy in order to educate yourself in order to give your bitch and puppies the best possible care and chance of surviving after whelping. The bitch needs a special diet and the pups will need special food also after they are born.

I have heard from a couple of Vets that it is not good for a puppy to leave its Mother till it is over 10 weeks or this could cause serious health problems. Have you heard of this before?

Is the White K-9 Services Inc. a reputable breeder?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

We at DPCA Breeder Education can neither approve or dispprove companies but we can definitely refer you to many articles on our site that will give to you some valuable insight on how to choose a reputable breeder. We can also refer you to some Public Education Committee articles. However, rest assured that buying from any 'company' is not a good idea in the first place.

Additonally our DPCA Breeder Education article menu will be invaluable in assisting you to find a large variety of well written advice by various knowledgable authors.

I think that with this information you will be able to make an informed decision. You will learn a lot of important strategies such as trying to see the puppies, their parents (at least the mother) and their environment, how to interview the breeder and other advice on how to find a reputable breeder.

I hope that we have helped you out somewhat in your quest. Good luck in finding a quality Doberman puppy from a breeder that will always be there for you and your puppy throughout your puppies life.

I personally never heard of them but if they are involved in any way promoting the Albino dog that the DPCA has rejected as a color not allowed then they are not doing a service for the betterment of the breed.

An Albino in any species has many health problems. In animals, we feel it is unethical to promote them.

Q: from B.S.
Date: Monday, April 11, 2005
Time: 11:01 AM

Comments: Breeding

Is it true that a males sperm is only good once every 48 hours ? Therefore you should only allow him to mate with the female every other day. Also how many mating sessions do you recommend.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

B.S.

Male sperm rejuvenates quickly, especially in younger males. It is true that most breeders breed the dog every other day but they really can be bred back to back days without an issue. Usually it's recommended that you breed the bitch as long as she will stand and that usually ends up being two to three breedings total.

Q: from Barb
Date: Friday, April 8, 2005
Time: 2:01 PM

Comments: (Other)

I bred my female Yorkie with my male. How long from the time of conception will the puppies be due?

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Barb

People that aren't aware of everything that it is possible to know about breeding have no business breeding. I suggest you get yourself a book and LEARN and EDUCATE yourself. One good one is called : Canine Reproduction - A Breeder's Guide by Phyllis A Holst, MS, DVM. It is very informative and I suggest you read it from cover to cover. In this day and age, there is certainly no need for ignorance. There are hundreds of books available on breeding and the internet is invaluable as well. It simply requires EDUCATING yourself beforehand.

To answer your question: the average is 63 days with a range of 59 to 70 days. The length of gestation in bitches varies when measured from the day of breeding. The wide range results from the fact that breeding can occur during a long time around ovulation and still be successful. Bred before ovulation bitches will usually have a longer gestation than those bred after
ovulation.

Q: from Anthony Brown
Date: Thursday, April 7, 2005
Time: 4:20 PM

Comments: ear cropping

My 6 month old Dobie had his ears cropped at 11 weeks of age. He is now 6 months old now. One ear is standing pretty but the left ear keeps falling after removing the stent. I have heard of a new bracing system that reduces the discomfort and time it takes to train the ear for correct stance. Do you have any information about this new system? And can you recommend an expert vet or someone in the Denver Colorado area who can help me with his ears?

If you go to the www.dpca.org and look for mentors you should be able to find one in your area that can recommend someone to help you.

Also, if you check or website where you posed this question under "articles" you will find a lot of ear taping methods described.

It really depends on exactly what the ear is doing. If it falls outward and down there is one method to fix it and if it falls inward toward the head there is another method.

Basically 6 months isn't the "end" of wrapping ears in all cases. You should continue to post them both until both are standing.

Can you give the puppies too much glucose and water causing them to becomes diabetic or similar. Thanks in anticipation.

I have no idea about this at all. Hopefully another member will, but if not this could be a question for a veterinarian. I do have a saying though and that is often that too much of anything is not good.

I cropped my puppies ears at 10 weeks of age. I have taped his ears for 6 weeks now and they seem to stand fine, but when he is really alert, his ears tilt inwards and practically touch each other at the top of his head. Is this normal? If not, is there anything I can do to fix it? Thanks!

The ears are doing what we call "over" correcting. You need to brace the ears when you tape them so that he can not hold them closer than straight up. If you purchase some insulation caulking (comes in a roll from Home Depot or OSH) and cut it the exact distance between the two ears when they are held erect. Then when you wrap the ears, place the caulking between the ears at the base and tape it to each ear so that the puppy can not hold the ears closer together than straight. This process works well.

If you go to Ears on this site it may be of help. Otherwise, you have "pockets" and you must try and remove them immediately or the ears will stay that way.

There are many things you can use. You can cut a cork (like from a wine bottle) in half, reverse tape it so sticky side out. Use a little skin bond as well and place the cork on the inside of the ear, directly over the dimple. You can push this out with your finger so you know what it is. Stick the cork on this dimple, pushing it out slightly and use one inch tape and wrap around this ear or ears. Don't go all the way up but just the area to keep the cork in place. Don't use any brace between the ears. Keep this on for about a week. If it doesn't work, keep trying. You can also use the popcorn that they use in packing small boxes. It works as well.

No this is not normal and yes you can fix it. I suggest that you continue to tape until the ears are standing at 12 o'clock. This may take several more tapings. You need to make sure that you are stretching the ears up onto the posts so that a pocket doesn't form at the base of the ear.

We do have articles on our article page for methods. I personally like Carol Petruzzo's method which is article 11 in the following:

There is a booklet by Bonnie Wittrock that you can get too that I like. Bonnie's contact info is bwittrock@macnet.com. With Bonnie's permission, I got her phone number which is 503-472-4869.

Just be patient and tape, you will get it done and you will be happy with the result of straight up, 12 o'clock ears.

Q: from Tracy
Date: Sunday, April 3, 2005
Time: 9:08 PM

Comments: (Other)

I have a male Pug I was wondering how old he has to be to breed with a female..

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Kennels, Canada

Tracy

Any dog should be minimum of 2 years of age and have completed ALL his health testing. OFA won't issue a certificate if the dog is under 2 years of age. Check with your breeder or find a responsible breeder in your area to guide you as to all the necessary health testing for your breed.

Hopefully your male is registered ? Was he sold to you as show quality or breeding quality. If not, why are you wanting to breed him ? God knows, we have enough back yard breeders out there as it is. Your main focus should be on improving the health of the breed and you can only do that by being a responsible owner/breeder and doing all the testing available to ensure he is of breeding quality.

Also, any bitch he is bred to should be health tested. When one breeds, it should be to improve the health of the breed as well as improve on the conformation, temperament, etc.

If he is not registered, he should NOT be bred. If he was sold as a pet, he should NOT be bred as the breeder made the decision that he wasn't conformationally breeding quality when she sold him as a pet if he was.

Hopefully you will make a responsible decision.

Doberman female pup, 11 months old, has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde personality. Is being obedience trained, learns quickly, but she growls at everybody. We just tell them to ignore her then she gets better.

She has tried to bite me especially when I am drying her off after a bath, particularly around her hips and legs, like they hurt. My vet does not think it is hip dysplasia but we wonder. We think she is sore which is why she turns into a demon dog when we touch her in these areas. She does play hard with my other outside puppies.

She is scared of children and has bitten my granddaughter this past Christmas but we think, (but do not know) our granddaughter ran a tricycle into her while she was asleep. We do truly love this pup, but we need some help.

We take her everywhere with us and she sees people all the time but it is not the same as them walking up to her. People see a Doberman, especially a black one, and they will not come near even if we try to reassure them. We do give people treats to give her but we do not know that many people.

We do not want to put this puppy down because she can't adjust. Only a Doberman person would understand.

First of all, I would take her to your vet and have her hips x-rayed to find out if she does or doesn't have hip dysplasia. If she does, then you can get her on pain medication. If not, then I would separate her from the other dogs for awhile to allow her time to heal. Perhaps she is sore and hurting - Dobermans are very stoic and will not usually let you know if they are in pain, although they can be grumpy.

Seeing people and having people touch her are two different things. You need to socialize her with lots of different people and strangers touching her gently, so she learns that people are not going to hurt her and that growling or biting is not an acceptable behaviour.

But the very first thing you need to do is to rule out hip dysplasia. When you do have people touch her and if she doesn't growl, reward her for her positive behaviour and tell her how good she is. Do not reward her in any way for growling.

Monnie:

First and foremost you need to rule out any medical problem. You should have the area you think might be a structural problem looked at by an orthopedic specialist and perhaps have some x-rays done.

This behavior, in my opinion, is not normal for a puppy or a young dog. You may also want to have some blood work done to make sure there is nothing going on internally. Having said that, lastly you need to find a specialized behaviorist in your area that can help you work through the attitude issues. If you have exhausted all areas in the health and can't turn the attitude around, you may seriously think about returning her to the breeder.

This is a very volatile situation and someone is going to get hurt if you don't nip it in the bud right now.

It would be hard for me to advise you without seeing your dog. but by your description of her behavior you may need to find a knowledgeable person who knows Dobermans for a hands-on evaluation and advice.

I would think that if she were in that much pain as to where she would bite, it would be noticeable. You will need to determine for sure whether or not that she is in some sort of pain and fix that problem if she is actually in pain. You may be able to do a preliminary x-ray for her hips to possibly determine hip dysphasia or determine whether or not that she may be suffering from pan-osteomylitis (pano). Again, I say these things could be noticeable with limping or holding a leg up or not putting weight on the affected leg.

I am thinking that your girl may have a temperament/behavior problem and if you want to keep her, you will need professional and personal help to work her out of it. Being that she is 11 months old, you may have a chance.

You can start yourself by not allowing her to bite at all. When you are wiping her of around the rear quarters after her bath, do not allow her to bite and use her teeth on you. The command "No-Bite". When you have her around people, have her on lead and for now, don't allow her to be left unattended with children or people. If she is on lead, you can manage her better. You can also put a muzzle on her. If you should do this continue to train her with the "no-bite" command. Don't use it as a band-aid. Please seek out some professional help. You will learn too.

Since I have no idea as to where you are from, here is a suggestion on how to find someone to help. Go to www.DPCA.org and click onto breeder referral and then click onto your state and see if you can find a breeder near you.

Hopefully this person can help you or refer you to a Doberman specific trainer to help you. You can also look in the phone book for a trainer/behaviorist and be prepared to interview them. You will want someone who is familiar with Dobermans and someone who also likes Dobermans.

I feel that you can handle this problem so you don't have to put your girl to sleep. You are on the right track in that you know that you do need to train her.

Well, I have never encountered a pup with this temperament in otherwise good breeding. I'd take her to a GOOD trainer, not just an obedience trainer but one who works with problem dogs.

At 11 mo. it's possible she has Pano in both hind legs so she's not limping but it's painful. I'd certainly have her X-rayed immediately to rule out pain.

If she continues to do this she is going to be a great threat to other people and children. She will not get better until you find the underlying problem. She will only get worse. She is a danger now and will continue to be unless this is stopped right now.

Q: from Mae
Date: Tuesday, March 29, 2005
Time: 11:35 AM

Comments: Conformation/Handling

My sons toy poodle is acting strange. She is jerking or acting as if she has a nerve problem. What is going on I took her to a Vet and now I have no more money to invest on her. What is wrong my this 4yr of poodle now?

The problem with your poodle is with you, the owner. She needs a new owner. You can't afford her. She sounds like she's having an epileptic seizure. She needs medication.

Your veterinarian is the only source that can answer this question. I would suggest if you don't feel you got adequate response from your veterinarian that you try another. Having an animal is a commitment to providing food and proper medical care and you should always be prepared to spend what is necessary to acquire that medical attention.

Your son's toy poodle is having a seizure and NEEDS MEDICAL ATTENTION PDQ (that means FAST), OR you may be facing the fact that she will die without the proper medication. I don't suppose you'd let your son die if he needed medical attention ????

Q: from Ben
Date: Monday, March 21, 2005
Time: 7:35 PM

Comments: Obedience Training

Hi! I want to start obedience training my 13 week old male Dobe. I read through Ms. Dany Canino's 2 articles, "Out Means No!" and "I Said Wait!". Both articles recommended the use of a choke collar on your puppy. I've also read many other articles on the pros and cons of using choke chains so I am unsure of what methods to use. I am currently using positive reinforcement, but it only seem to work to an extent. I've seen dogs trained by choke chains and they seem to respond to commands much better. My question is, do you recommend using a choke collar at all? If so, at what age should you begin? If not, is there another way to get your dog to obey every command, every time, even when distracted? Thanks for all your help!

Ben:

There are many different processes for training dogs in today's obedience arena. I came from the old school and we used chokes and we started our training at 6 months of age. Today they begin the training at a younger age, 4 months, and a lot of trainers use a soft collar in the beginning. I don't think a choke is cruel if used properly. The dog does not need to be "strung" up high with the collar, the sound of a slight correction is something that they can quickly learn.

What I would recommend is that you find a reliable, highly recommend obedience trainer in your area and begin the process of training your dog. I think you will enjoy the time you have together and you will feel the rewards of your dog learning what you want he/she to learn.

Good Luck.

Dany Canino is a good friend of mine and an excellent trainer and a Rotti breeder/owner. I would not want to contradict her training methods, however I would not use a choke chain on a 13 wk. old pup.

If you start with a young pup of this age, the only thing I'd use is a soft buckle collar. Dobes have much too thin a neck and we have a big problem with CVI in the breed. Many are genetic but many are also caused by trauma to the neck.

Take your pup to a GOOD puppy training class sponsored by your local Doberman club or Kennel club, not some pet store or someone who has set themselves up as a trainer without many years and titles she's put on her own dogs.

Hello all...I found a breeder that I would like to buy a puppy from, but have one concern. The first time I saw the puppies in the litter they were 4 weeks old. I was introduced to both the sire and dam at this time. The sire was wonderful. Very attentive, trusting, intelligent, and obedient. I was very impressed with him. On the other hand, the dam was extremely timid. Not unfriendly or vicious, just very submissive. She approached me very slowly with her head held down.

I alerted the breeder of my concern and he told me that she's normally extremely approachable, but that her over protectiveness of her puppies causes her to be reserved and timid.

I have never owned a Dobe before, but have been doing an extensive amount of research on the breed and what to look for when purchasing one. Should I be concerned about the mothers temperament or is this normal? I should also include that neither the sire nor dam have been used for breeding before.

Thanks in advance.

If it were me I would be concerned with the dam being *shy* since most dams will act protectively (not aggressively) but NEVER timidly, regardless of whether it is their first litter or their fourth. I would definitely recommend that you be concerned with her temperament.

Other breeders on this forum may respond differently but that is my feeling on this issue.

This is a hard one to answer not knowing all the circumstances. Most bitches, as others have said, are very protective and don't welcome visitors in with very young puppies with "open arms"' so to speak.

Dobes are animals and they protect their young and knowing that they shouldn't act aggressively with strangers once they are in the home, it could be that she's just being "watchful" which is a Doberman characteristic.

Once the pups are older and completely weaned and she is mostly dried up, I'd go visit again and see how she acts. If she exhibits the same attitude at the next visit and is timid, I'd pass this litter by.

You are correct in having a red flag about the apparent shyness of the dam. Usually when the females have puppies they are extra on-guard. My advice to you is to follow your instincts and listen to your red flags. I would bow out from this litter and continue looking for your companion.

Personally as a breeder myself I would not be comfortable in breeding a Doberman that was shy in the first place. Often the dam will pass her temperament on to the puppies through her genetics and also because the puppies have her influence while growing up to the age that she leaves the dam. What were the puppies like with greeting you? If you should go take another look, stay away from a puppy that is reserved with you. If the puppy seems tense when you handle it, beware of that too.

To look for more breeders go to www.DPCA.org and scroll to Breeder Referral and click onto that and pick your state and look for breeders near you. Your idea of going to see the parents and visiting the breeders home like you did with this litter is great. I highly recommend a person doing just that.

Also to continue your research about how the puppies should be raised by the breeder and things that the breeder can and should be doing with the puppies, go to our articles page and read these articles. Here are some that I recommend.

Hopefully the breeder has a play center set up for the puppies where they can climb over and under object, tunnels, ramps and etc. for the puppies to learn.

I hope that this helps you in your decision and your quest for a well raised Doberman puppy with a good Doberman temperament. If you haven't read the Standard for the ideal Doberman Pinscher that breeders strive for go here to read this.

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/DPCABreedStandard.htm This will give you an idea of the ideal Doberman temperament too. You will see when you read this that shyness in a Doberman is not desired. You will get a lot of information about the Doberman by reading and studying this.

PS: On our pages are a lot of articles to help and guide on how to raise a great puppy and also I like to recommend this book, Supper Puppy, How to Raise the Best Dog You'll Ever have! by Peter J. Vollmer. You can buy this booklet on the web for under $10.00 at the Super Puppy web-site www.superpuppy.com to have for when you bring your puppy home. Another great article that is on our site for advanced reading is http://www.dpca-breedered.com/superpuppy.htm. There are many others too and you can print them for your use.

Hi Chuck:

You should weigh out the temperament of both the sire and the dam. You should also check out the puppies temperaments as well. How do they react when you pick them up? How do they react when you make sudden noises or movements? Reaction is ok if they recover quickly. These are all things you should look at when evaluating the litter.

First of all I want to say that I would be very, very leery of the temperament of the dam. In my experience, "over-protectiveness of her puppies causes her to be reserved and timid" this comment is false. A dam that is overprotective about her puppies, will ACT protectively, not hang her head and approach very slowly and carefully. A protective dam will not be aggressive, but WILL definitely let you know she doesn't want anyone around her babies.

This wouldn't matter whether or not it is her first litter or 3rd litter. I am afraid that I would be very concerned about the temperament of the dam. Just my opinion.

We are importing a Dobermann pup from Germany. He will be 9 weeks old when he arrives. My question is will it be too late to dock the tail at this time? I know its usually done much earlier but it is forbidden where he is coming from. Thank You

I assume you are not going to show the pup in Conformtion? If so, then I'd leave the tail alone. It's amputation at this age and very painful. Yes, it's been done but I certainly wouldn't recommend it. Personally I'd never do it to a pup of mine. Since you decided to import a pup, surely you knew he'd have a long tail so I don't understand why you would now want to dock it.

Kathy:

You can dock a puppies tail at that age. That is definitely not too old to do so.

At this age Kathy, docking the tail is more of an amputation and will be extremely painful for the dog so personally, I wouldn't have it done at all. I am assuming that you are not showing it so it wouldn't matter to leave it long. If you intend to show it, I am not sure why you would import a puppy from Germany knowing full well that the pup's tail can't be docked in that country. Usually the tails are docked at 2-3 days old while it is still cartilage, not bone. Now there is too many nerves involved in the process and not a good thing to put the puppy through in my opinion.

We just got our 2 year old Doberman from a friend, soon after we got her she went into heat and started bleeding she has been bleeding for 2 weeks now. Its gotten lighter but how long does this last? She has a boy Dobe across the street but I don't want her to get pregnant. When can I let them play together safely? Also when can I stop having to put pull ups on her?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

First of all, I'd have her spayed in a month. That way you'll never have the inconvenience of "pull-ups" and not being able to play with her friend across the street.

Bitches are usually in season (bleeding) for approximately 3 weeks. I'd wait an additional week to let her around other dogs. The bleeding should taper off to a clear discharge within the next week or so.

Please be sure to have her spayed UNLESS she was purchased specifically for a Conformation show dog.

A normal heat cycle is usually 21 days and she should be separated from males during the entire time. I would highly recommend that you spay her and eliminate the inconvenience.

To be on the safe side, I would keep her away from the male Doberman for another 2 weeks. You can take the pull ups off her when she stops bleeding which should be soon. They don't usually bleed for more than 2 weeks, max unless she is perhaps vWD affected and then she might spot bleed awhile longer than that. Just have to keep an eye on her. If you are not going to show her, I would strongly suggest that you wait about one month, then take and have her spayed.

There are also lots of really good books about Dobermans and you should seriously think about getting one or more. One that comes to mind is written by Faye Strauss and is called "A New Owner's Guide to Doberman Pinschers" . It covers just about everything and is well written.

When does re-absorption of puppies "typically" occur, i.e. when is the most critical period?
Thank you.

This is probably a questions for a veterinarian that is a reproductive expert. I have been told, in the past by some veterinarians that most dogs really don't reabsorb puppies, that they just don't maintain the pregnancy when we really think they are reabsorbing. As far as what is the most critical period for the pregnancy, I've been told by some experts that up to day 25 the eggs are not "secured and attached" in the womb and that they can be aborted due to trauma or stress. That is why many people prefer to not ship bitches after being bred until after that day. I don't know if there is medical proof to this theory.

Q: from Loucretia
Date: Thursday, March 10, 2005
Time: 9:59 PM

Comments: email list

Can anyone tell me if any Dobe owners may have an email list to be able to ask questions and respond to each other.

There are several Doberman lists that have lots of information you might be interested in. Any time you have questions, you post to these lists and several people will be happy to try and answer you.

If you write me privately, I can send you the subscription address of a couple of them.

Q: from Roland R. Ryall
Date: Wednesday, March 9, 2005
Time: 9:30 PM

Comments: Co-Ownership of Doberman

We are getting ready to buy out the Co-ownership of our dog from the breeder ... what steps should I take to protect myself besides giving her the money We are not on friendly terms which is too bad.

There really is nothing much if there is no breeding contract etc. You BOTH must sign off the Registration papers and then you sign on as sole owner.

I'd also have something drawn up that there shall be no more association regarding the dog in question and both you sign it and each keep a copy. Other than that, I don't think it's a problem as long as you both agree on ending your co-ownership and association re: this dog.

I think this question would be best asked of an attorney; however, your best protection is to have a signed agreement if you can get one.

Roland

If I were in your shoes, I would make sure you get IN WRITING, that you will be the sole owner of the dog with no strings attached at all. Get a receipt for any money paid to her with written on the receipt what it is for. Date and sign. Basically, dot all I's and cross all T's.

Q: from Annette Davis
Date: Wednesday, March 9, 2005
Time: 3:20 AM

Comments: reabsorption

I mated my bitch 12 days ago. She was ready as she had the vet test her but I was out for a hour the other day and had a workman in. She jumped the gate and encountered the bitch she hates most who was in her kennel. They had a fight through the bars that lasted about 10 minutes. She got face wounds and had antibiotics from the vet.

I would doubt that would be a cause for re-absorption. At just 12 days, the fetus' are so small that something like this shouldn't be a problem. Unless she started hemorrhaging and seems fine otherwise, I would go on to expect a normal litter.

Annette

It is my understanding, yes that any undue stress can and will cause a bitch to reabsorb. It is a natural instinct to protect their young from danger, perceived or otherwise. This is their way of protecting their unborn young.

Hope this helps.

Q: from Roxanne
Date: Monday, March 7, 2005
Time: 1:24 PM

Comments: Health

I have a litter of Lab puppies that are 3 weeks old, I have started introducing "mushy" puppy food and they love it. My question is, how much and or how often should I be feeding them?

Roxanne:

You should be feeding your puppies several times a day, at least four. I usually have the mother supplement them at first after they have eaten. Then I gradually wean the nursing down to once a day and that is usually at late evening before bedtime. I keep the mother with the puppies at night as long as she will tolerate them. Some mothers will stay with them until they are several weeks old, others want away from them by three weeks, you have to gauge her behavior.

I would feed this "mush" twice a day and of course keep the mother feeding them as well. At 4 wks. you could put them on 4 meals of this and put the mother in with them at night or let her top them off after they eat the food.

At 5 wks. put them on 5 meals and let mom nurse just a minute so she doesn't get loaded with milk but by the end of 5 wks. she should be pretty much weaned from the puppies.

Yes, and she told me that none of her dogs had ever had any health problems. She said my pup was the first dog she has had that has CAH and that she never heard of it before I came to her and told her the issues he was going through.

Did the breeder tell you they would either take back the puppy or replace it if it has either died or you can't do what you wanted to with it?

No. In fact she told me I could put him to sleep if I wanted to. I was this close to but then he started to eat and has gained weight. The health warranty was up when he turned two-So I did not ask her to take him back because he is 3 in a few weeks-Plus I absolutely ADORE him and couldn't just throw him away.

You say you asked the right questions and got the right answers. What were the questions you either didn't ask or weren't give the correct answers?

See this is the area I don't want to do again so I am trying to get as much information as possible about the Doberman breed. When I asked the breeder before I decided to get a puppy I basically went through the list I have seen on DPCA and AKC "what buyers should ask breeders" type of questions. Now at that time I had not known anything about liver diseases such as CAH with copper toxicosis. The copper levels is why I think this inherited like Bedlington terriers. Also the vets I have seen believe it is inherited but I too have read all the papers and there is a lot of "crap shooting" going on. Is it hereditary vs. food, vaccines, etc? Noone really knows. I do understand this but I also lean towards heredity and only due to the copper level being soooo high. I believe I fed my dog "good" food -I fed him until he stopped eating. Solid Gold Hunden-flocken ( I believe that is how you spell it.). Then one of the vets while he was not eating gave me a high protein food-Eukanuba prescribed food that my dog would not touch. Then I had enough and demanded blood work to be done. I fought with two vets for over a year to do a blood panel!!! Finally the third listened to me. I spent too long arguing with the first vet and this is an issue I have to live with because if I would have switched earlier maybe my dog would have a better chance at living longer. Anyway, now he is on a prescribed food for dogs with CAH and high Copper levels--Royal Canin Hepatic he is eating better and has gained weight which is great! Back to Solid Gold-the protein is "min 22%" I think that is pretty average percentage of protein.

You say that the puppy didn't have a health certificate? Was the pup healthy when you purchased him and if so, how old was he when he came down with CAH?

Yes, My pup was healthy I took him to the vet the next day after I got him from the airport. He has been sick since he turned two maybe a little before--because I was constantly asking the vet if his weight was low --he never was over 60lbs until now. He was exactly 60lbs when he was a year and 3 months and never gained weight after that-I was concerned but the vet said I was just worrying to much. Finally when Oliver was 2 years and 6 months and a second vet later he was down to 56 lbs. That is when we tried the Eukanuba food. Then the third vet, when Oliver was down to 50 lbs, finally listened to me and we did blood work. So, he was diagnosed with anorexia and liver values 20 times higher than they should be and this after ultra sounds, x-rays and laparoscope biopsies with CAH and high copper level. He was put through hell in November!

Sorry to ask so many questions but I'd like to know what the breeder did or did not do. Also, if I offended anyone that was not my intent I just want to know absolutely as much as I can before I buy another Doberman. I want to go to a reputable breeder and I knew the people who answered on here were reputable Doberman breeders and scholars. So if I upset anyone that was not my intention. I am just being leary of getting another Doberman and trying to get the odds to play in my favor!

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Kennels, Canada

It sounds like you've asked all the right questions. Good for you. Perhaps the breeder has not had any problems in the past with any dogs. Unfortunately, sometimes mother nature throws in a curve from somewhere in the past that no one can possibly be aware of. I don't think in this instance that anything differently could have been done except for you to insist on a vet doing what you asked in the first place, taking blood work. My motto is always if the vet doesn't listen to you, it's time to get a different vet, one who will listen and do something or at least do the testing.

One thing you may want to try for your dog is to put him on Milk Thistle Seed capsules. Give 40 - 60 drops or (one capsule) daily. Milk Thistle is supposed to REVERSE liver damage and is used in treating hepatitis. I would contact an Alternative Medicine Vet or go online and ask for holistic methods of treating and reversing liver disease. Hope this helps you and your boy.

You did not upset anyone by your questions at all. Sometimes we have to ask questions in order to fully understand all the particulars. It makes trying to answer your questions a little easier.

Foods that are high in fat content such as chicken is not good for Dobermans as they can't process the fat. Any table scraps with butter, margarine on it do the same thing. Giving dog treats with BHA in as preservatives will kill the immune systems of our dogs and can cause diseases. Be as diligent in feeding your dogs as you are in feeding your family. Foods with beet pulp can cause liver diseases as the toxins in beet pulp build up and the dog's liver can't process it or flush it out. Beet pulp can be safely fed to cattle and horses, but can be fatal to dogs and cats.

I really don't see how the breeder was at fault with CAH. There are hundreds of health problems dogs of all breeds can get just as there are in humans. If the breeder said it was the first time it happened in her line, I might want to know how long she had been breeding. As I told you, I've been breeding for 50 years and haven't had it happen....as yet....but it could tomorrow. Who would I blame?

I think one of the contributing factor in "some" dogs are the high protein dog foods. Some dogs cannot assimilate that much and it is very hard on the kidneys, liver and even bone structure. I know. I had a problem with 3 pups in a litter many years ago. They were not growing in the legs. Dwarfism. The rest of the litter was fine. Took them to MSU where they were doing research on dwarfism as well as kidney and liver problems in a couple other breeds. 3 weeks later and after many tests were run, the result was too high a Protein and I believe at that time it was about 15%. The pups were put on regular adult food, lower in Protein and they started growing and ended up just slightly smaller than their littermates but with straight legs. That's just ONE example of what high Protein can do to some dogs.

I would not blame the breeder as I believe her when she said it was the first she knew of it. The only thing you can ask is how old are the parents, and how old were/are the grandparents and if dead, from what.

If you feel you want your next pup examined for this problem once you buy it from a Vet, go ahead, but I don't think you'd find it at an early age.

A male Dobe a year old and 60 lbs would be cause for concern for me. I'd change Vets in a heart beat if that were the case. Ask some show breeders in your area who they use.

I have a question about cropping the ears. I am having a hard time finding a breeder that will allow me to NOT have the ears cropped even when I offer to sign a contract stating that under no circumstances will I get the ears cropped. Why is this?

Cropping the ears is part of the total look of the Doberman which is supposed to be "alert and watchful " and uncropped Dobermans don't have that look. Granted, they have a much softer look, but that is not what the dog was meant to look like.

Also, if for some unknown reason somewhere down the road you decided you could no longer keep your Doberman, it is very difficult, if not impossible to re-home an uncropped Doberman.

If you are looking for a show quality puppy, then it is even more difficult to show and finish an uncropped Doberman in either the US or Canada. Yes, there are some breeders out there that will sell uncropped puppies to pet homes, but only under certain circumstances. Hope this answers your question.

I can give you my reason. We grade pups at 8 -10 wks. We crop all pups at 7 weeks. It is very difficult to choose a non-show pup from a show pup at this age. If we delayed cropping it would be harder on the pups and we do them all at once.

Another reason is that many times people cannot keep their dog for whatever reason and it is MUCH harder to place an older dog/pup with uncropped ears.

Hello, hope this has not been discussed before. I have a 3 year old male Doberman that is sick with chronic active hepatitis with high levels of copper (2710). I do believe due to the copper levels this is hereditary - my question is, due to liver enzymes being elevated long before symptoms show in dogs why breeders do not routinely test their breeding dogs' liver values? A blood panel is about 100 plus dollars but as breeders they are already spending so much on tests, so why don't they do this also.

I don't mean this to read hostile. I am just trying to find the reasoning behind not testing dogs for liver levels. I have only found one breeder in Canada that does test. The breeders in the US and Canada, for the most part, do not test for liver enzyme levels. In Finland they actually test for CAH, so why is this not part of most breeders testing. I am just curious about this issue. And the fact that CAH is so prominent in Dobes yet no one seems to talk about it is concerning to me. I love the breed, especially my boy but I am frightened to get another Dobe (even though I know I will) due to the breeds horrid medical issues (CAH, DMC, Wobbler's, etc).

How do I screen breeders better than I did the last breeder I got my boy from--she answered everything "correctly" and it is obvious she researches these types of sites but when I have told people about the breeder they shake their head at me.

My boy is my first Doberman and I really did use the questions from DCPA and AKC when speaking to the breeder and she answered everything correctly but after after I asked repeatedly for proof of health certificates from the breeder, I gave up asking and knew I was snowed and by this time I was in love with my puppy. How do I prevent this in the future when I get another Dobe?

I also DO KNOW that breeders, for the most part try their BEST to breed responsibly and to better the health of the breed, I just want to make sure my next Dobe comes from this type of breeder.

Wow, that is a hot topic. First let me say that CAH is NOT common in Dobes. I must say that I personally do not know of any of my friends who've had a problem with it and I've been breeding Dobes for 50 years and to the best of my knowledge, have not had a problem with any of mine up to this date. That's not to say that it won't hit tomorrow however.

I don't know of anyone who does test for this routinely. Only if they would have some medical problem that would lead to that prognosis and that would be on an individual dog. Heredity? I doubt it. In come cases it might be but since it's not that common I would hesitate to say that it is widespread in our breed.

Right now we are spending thousands of dollars on health testing and how with Holter monitors being done either annually or bi-annually, the cost of maintaining our Dobermans is almost pricing us out of being able to keep them.

Did you ask the breeder of your pup if: a. the parents had a liver problem. b. the grandparents? c. the littermates? Was it only your puppy that had this problem?

Did the breeder tell you they would either take back the puppy or replace it if it has either died or you can't do what you wanted to with it?

You say you asked the right questions and got the right answers. What were the questions you either didn't ask or weren't give the correct answers? You say that the puppy didn't have a health certificate? Was the pup healthy when you purchased him and if so, how old was he when he came down with CAH?

Sorry to ask so many questions but I'd like to know what the breeder did or did not do.

First of all, CAH is not a disease that is rampant in the Doberman breed like DCM, CVI , or Cancer is. If you read all the material about CAH, you will notice that it is not known positively whether or not it is considered to be an inherent disease or not. Most reputable breeders already spend thousands of dollars health testing their breeding stock. High protein and high fat diets are ALSO thought to have a part in causing CAH, so some of the concern must lie with the owner, not just the breeders. If some breeders ARE testing regularly for CAH, that tells me that they already know that their breeding stock produces it, otherwise there is no reason to test for it unless it is a concern for a particular line or pedigree having already produced it in offspring. CAH is thought to be part of an immune mediated disease process, which means there is some reason the dog/s are producing it or there is a history of immune problems in some particular line or pedigree.

To me, if you repeatedly asked for proof of health testing for your puppy's parents and didn't get it, that should have put up a red flag immediately in my book. I am sorry your dog is suffering from CAH. Look at the diet he is on and perhaps you could put him on a low protein, low fat diet.

Unfortunately it is almost impossible to not get anything and there is no guarantee that your dog will not contract any of the diseases known to affect Dobermans, but knowing that in future, you get copies of health test results BEFORE you purchase a puppy might alleviate some of the misconceptions for you or at least put to rest some of the concerns. Having said that, we still as breeders can't promise that just because the parents are free from disease at the time of breeding that the puppies, somewhere down the road won't get something, would be foolish of us to lead someone to believe that it will never happen. We all hope that no dogs in our bloodlines will contract a disease of any kind, but it would be foolhardy and less than honest of any breeder to lead you to believe that it will never happen either.

You can only do your best at interviewing breeders, just as we do our best to test for what we think and believe are the most likely concerns and if there were DNA markers for all diseases, most of us would be using them regularly, believe me. Breeding is a crap shoot and sometimes mother nature throws us a curve that we didn't know existed.

Owners must be just as diligent in caring for their dogs as the breeders are in health testing and choosing what we think is the right stud dog for our bitches. WE do our best and that is all we can do.

Q: from Chuck Simon
Date: Friday, March 4, 2005
Time: 3:36 PM

Comments: Skull

I have a wonderful male, 20 months old. Can you tell me, what is the name for the pointy bone at the crest of the skull?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

That is called the occipital bone.

Q: from Jolene Fendelet
Date: Wednesday, March 2, 2005
Time: 9:48 PM

Comments: How long can a Dobe live

Hi my name is Jolene and I have a Miniature Doberman who is 9.

I was just wondering how long they can live for? I heard they can live up to 17 years. Is that true?

Please let me know. Thank you.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Yes they can Jolene. FWIW, the Miniature Pinscher is no relation whatsoever to the Doberman. They are in fact a toy breed and are closely related to the Chihuahua.

Darlene, you already know Ren Bri and her line..... she is so sensitive with her skin. I can't even give her the most premium of kibble. Raw diet works though. I've learned the hard way!

I'm hoping to improve her coat.

Some people here have recommended sunflower oil. However, one of the kibbles she had a problem with, had sunflower oil as a main additive.

What do you think about flaxseed oil? It's available at the feed store, nearby.

Thanks greatly!

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Hi again. I had posted a question regarding the fastest finished Dobe dog and bitch on Feb. 24th. I did check with the AKC and they referred me back to the DPCA because it is a breed specific inquiry. Does anyone know where I can check to find out this information?

Lisa:

That should be part of DPCA records/archives. I would check with their Correspondence Secretary, listed on their web site or check out the DPCA Committees in existence and go to http://www.dpca.org/committee.html, look at the list of committees and see which would possibly apply, I would start with the Historian or Achievement Awards first and go from there.

Hope this helps.

I believe the youngest bitch to finish was Ch. Alisaton Canasta V. Dal Clar who finished at 8 mo and 10 days. She was also the youngest Doberman ever to take an Award of Merit at the 1992 DPCA National at 9 1/2 months.

Hi,
I recently purchased a female Doberman pup from a reputable breeder in my local area. We spent hours talking about her dogs and getting to know them and the breed before we purchased the pup.

We have had her for a little over a month and we have 2 other dogs; a Boxer who is 4 months old and a Brussels Griffon who is almost a year.

We have never had a problem with introducing the dogs in a new environment but this little Dobe pup is having a rough time I guess. She starts out barking at the Brussels and when the Brussels walks away the Dobe chases her and grabs her by the throat and won't let go. We have to physically go outside and pull her off of the other dog.

She also has no interest in us at all and tends to be shy and we have been really working hard but we aren't getting any results. There is someone always home and we love our dogs and we spend hours throughout the day with them and socializing them at the park and pet stores. This is the first time we have ever had this kind of kind of problem. We plan on putting the pup in obedience and agility and we are worried about this temperment issue.

We contacted the breeder and she recommended getting a shock collar but I am not sure how humane that is.

If you could please give me some advice or if I can provide you with any more information please let me know.

Simone:

There is certainly nothing wrong with giving your dogs a treat before bedtime, I do the same thing with mine. The all get a pig ear at a certain time every night and they all know when that time is from their internal "clocks".

Q: from Tresha

Date: Sunday, February 27, 2005
Time: 7:13 PM

Comments: Conformation/Handling

I am 32 years old and I have a great desire to make showing/breeding my hobby. Is this too old to start this type of hobby? I know it will be a couple of years at least before I purchase the right Doberman puppy because I have lots of research to do. Ihave been going to shows and talking to anyone who is willing to answer questions.Could anyone recommend any books and or a mentor in upstate SC? Thank you Tresha

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Tresha:

Prices vary from breeder to breeder but you can probably expect to pay between $800 and $1500 for a pet puppy with the ears cropped. Show prices are much higher depending on the quality of the individual puppy. As for raising the male puppy or any puppy for that matter, the best way to house break them is to not allow them "run" of the house until you know that they are trustworthy. Then gradually give them more and more space a little at a time until you know that they understand how to get out or ask to get out. A male does not necessarily mark the house. I have had many males that do not and I've had some that did. There are products you can purchase (a fabric strap) that you can put on them to keep them from lifting their legs in the house. You just have to work on training them not to do it, however, having said that, if a bitch is in season you might have an occasional set back. I've actually had more difficulty housebreaking my females then the males.

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A: from Theresa Mullen, Terrylane Dobermans, USA

Hello Tresha,

Doberman puppies need lots of attention and structure when you are raising them. Good manners in young puppies are a result of supervising them and rewarding good behavior and discouraging unwanted behavior. If you've never had a Doberman, I would suggest a female. They have less issues related to adolescent behavior and often males can be challenging if you have no previous dog experience, especially with large guard breeds.

Dobermans are strictly indoor dogs. They have a very short coat and on the belly, sides and ears/head it is very thin and they cannot keep warm for any length of time, and they are prone to bleaching out of the coat color and overheating. They can spend time outside during mild temperatures, but must have shade and shelter from sun.

Please read through the training and behavior articles on our Article Menu and try the following links as well.

http://bakaridobes.westhost.com/publiceducation/

http://bakaridobes.westhost.com/publiceducation/PECSoYou.html

http://bakaridobes.westhost.com/publiceducation/PECBasic.html

http://bakaridobes.westhost.com/publiceducation/PECTraining.html

All the best with your decision.

Q: from Bryon Davis

Date: Saturday, February 26, 2005
Time: 1:18 AM

Comments: Health

Hello:

My red male is 21 months and overnight became extremely ill. He was vomiting, his breathing was very labored, he was very weak and shivering. I rushed him to our vet who took X-rays. They showed some white spots in his lungs so they sent me to our city's finest pet hospital. They said he wasn't oxygenating properly (92%) and they did blood work, trach wash, cultures of every kind....to the tune of $2,200 US and found nothing! They gave us antibiotics for the trach wash and that seemed to help so I figured Pneumonia. Now, a month later he's doing it again. I'm taking him to a different vet in the morning. Any ideas? Please and Thank you.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Bryon:

You are doing the right thing about taking him to another vet. You might even ask for a referral to an internist who might be able to locate the problem better. We can not give veterinary advice on this website, your best bet to is get him in to a specialist that has better diagnostic experience.

Hope you find the cause.

Q: from LeeAnne

Date: Friday, February 25, 2005
Time: 12:08 PM

Comments: reply to Marj Brooks

Hi, no the S shape is not cut in. Our vet told me he has a very nice 'show cut' and there is no 'winged' tip on the ear top. The way his ears are now, from the base...standing very nicely with good shape, about 2 inches up from there (roughly half way) the shape of the ear (concave) seems to pull the top half of ear outward. So the result is, from looking at him from the front, two big S's on top of his head. Kinda comical really, but, not too good for conformation competition I think. Tell me how, and I can post a photo for more clarity.

Thanks again for the input everyone

A: from

Q: from Jackie Carbone
Date: Friday, February 25, 2005
Time: 5:52 PM

Comments: Conformation/Handling

My pug had surgery for an extra valve that was bypassing the liver and going to the heart. It was causing toxins to build up in his brain and he acted as though he was drunk.

Through tests that the vet took it was discovered that something was wrong with the liver. I took him to a specialist for the problem. The surgery was to tie off the valve and he is in perfect condition now.

This was found when he is about 8 weeks old.

He is now on hills diet l/d for the rest of his life. My question is why does he have to be on this diet for the rest of his life

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Jackie:

Unfortunately, we can not give advice on medical or diet recommendations. I would suggest that you ask you veterinarian about this. If he says yes, you might ask him for the recipe for home cooked ID, that way you can add fresh ingredients.

Q: from Lisa
Date: Thursday, February 24, 2005
Time: 11:47 AM

Comments: Conformation/Handling

We are starting out in the conformation ring and out of curiosity we were wondering what the record was for the youngest bitch and dog to finish in the conformation ring. If you know or you know where I could find this information please e-mail me. Also, if you know who the winners were that would be great.

Thank you!

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Kennels, Canada

Lisa

I would first of all start with contacting the AKC to ask if they keep such records or stats and if so, where would you go to view them.

Good luck with showing.

Q: from Janet

Date: Wednesday, February 23, 2005
Time: 8:20 AM

Comments:

First, I wish to say what a wonderful sight this is and I read it regularly for information. My question concerns how to respond to peoples negative responses to the Dobe breed. When I walk my female Dobe that is well behaved and not aggressive I hear comments like "why would you ever get that breed" or "please don't walk your dog when I am out because that dog scares me."

My vet said his wife heard the same things when they owned one also.

They are not friendly (but my dog is!) and I have read how important for socialization it is to have positive encounters with others. Any suggestions on how to respond to these people or just ignore?

Thank you.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Janet:

You can determine how approachable the individual seems and pursue it accordingly. If they seem unapproachable I would just ignore them and go on my way. However, if they seem approachable I would think you would want to educate them on the Doberman Pinscher and how they are very sociable and great dogs to live with and own. That they are involved in Search and Rescue, Therapy, Obedience, Agility and many other sports and venues. That they can be great companions in a family as well as an intelligent protector. You probably don't want to go overboard but you could offer for them to pet your dog so they can see for themselves.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

This is a good time for breed education. If your dog is friendly, ask the person to come over an pet her. Tell them that the breed had a bad reputation 50 years ago when it was used in the war and was trained to be a security dog.

Tell them they are very good family dogs and yet protective if needed. Try and get a conversation going and I'm sure you'll be able to convince them that the breed is wonderful and while bad apples are in every breed it is usually because the owner has done the damage to the dog.

Some people just won't listen. To those I'd just ignore them but give the first method a try. Most of the time, you'll convince them that Dobermans are just as nice as any dog should be.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Janet,

My response to these people is to educate the people who ask about our breed and tell them for these reasons I chose the Doberman Pinscher. I also ask them back why that they ask the question and add more if necessary. If you educate them I find that most of them become interested. In my dialog, I do tell them that the Doberman Pinscher is not the dog for everybody and why that it is for me. For example, the Doberman is supposed to be obedient, so I like it that they are so easy to train and well mannered and things like that. I like how clean that they are and how attentive to me and my family that they are. I like their beauty and their alertness. I love their loyalty.

After all of that and they see how well mannered that my dog has been while we were talking, I invite them to meet my dog and pet it and talk to her/him. I tell them the dog's name. "Would you like to meet and pet General?" I introduce my dog to them as though he were a person. Sounds silly, but it works and it get a good message across.

I take the conversation as far as it will go and be on my way. Just be polite, even if the person is possibly being an obnoxious jerk and sometimes I have found that too. I just talk to them as if they are truly interested. If they are not, the conversation is rather short, if you get the gist. LOL

There are articles on our pages for the education about the Doberman to help you with this.

I hope that this helps.

Q: from Gloria Pascoe

Date: Wednesday, February 23, 2005
Time: 3:21 AM

Comments: Satin Balls

I recently read your article on Satin Balls and have used the recipe, however I had to omit the ingredient TOTAL, could you please tell me what this is, so that I can purchase the equivalent in the UK. Many thanks.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Gloria,

I made the Satin Balls and substituted the Total cereal flakes with an organic flake cereal. Total is a breakfast cereal that we can get here in the States and Canada. We find it in the cereal department in our grocery stores. You can go to a health food store and probably get a flake type cereal that is similar or even better, but that is what Total is. I am sure that you can find the equivalent in the UK.

Good luck.

Q: from Kara Dudley
Date: Saturday, February 19, 2005
Time: 9:34 PM

Comments:

I have a 23 month old Dobergirl who seems to be reverting back to bad chewing habits. She has always been an aggressive chewer but lately she is becoming quite destructive in the house. We have had a year of formal training and received our CGC certification. I am putting her back in a refresher course starting this week, hoping it might help our situation. She is so loving but extremely trying lately. This is our first Dobie and we are just looking for a little advice on her behavioral habits. Can this be normal for a Dobie or do we just have an exceptional chewer? HELP??

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Kara:

My recommendation would be to never leave her in a tempting situation. Never trust her out of your site. If you remove the temptations and control her environment she may eventually outgrow the problem. However, there are some dogs that never stop being destructive. Going back to class should help; spending quality one on one time with her should also help. If you need to leave her alone for periods of time, she should be crated so she is not taking out her frustration on things in you house.

Q: from Rick Parker
Date: Saturday, February 19, 2005
Time: 9:16 AM

Comments: Health

Hi, I have a beautiful 5 month bitch born 9/6/04. Brought her home 2 weeks ago. I've caught her eating stool in the back yard. I keep it has clean as possible but miss some that she leaves at night. What is the best way to correct this problem ASAP? She is bred from top champions by an excellent breeder.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Kennels, Canada

Hi Rick,

You can try adding accent (found in the spices section of almost every grocery store) to her food. For me this has worked for dogs that love to eat kitty deposits. There is nothing in the product that will harm the puppy either.

Other than that, even though you keep the area as clean as possible it is time to become even more stringent than you already are. Prevention is the best method believe me.

Perhaps she is missing something in her diet as well. What are you feeding her?

Q: from Lorna O'Connor
Date: Friday, February 18, 2005
Time: 8:40 PM

Comments:

First, I would like to compliment you all on this wonderful forum. It is a great resource and I find myself referring people to it often. I am wondering if anyone knows of a good resource for checking out potential puppy buyers? I am in the position of dealing with a person who sounds like a wonderful home on the surface, but my gut feeling is not good. I am not in a position to travel to check this person out myself. What do breeders do when you find yourself faced with a situation such as this? Thanks in advance for any advice!

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Kennels, Canada

Hi Lorna,

There is a Breeder Referral at the DPCA site and there are also lots of people willing and able to do home checks. Some of the Breeder's Education site AM breeders will likely also respond to your question but in the meantime you could check out the site mentioned earlier in this post.

FWIW, my own rule of thumb with placing puppies has ALWAYS been 'go with your gut' or 'when in doubt don't'. You might want to think about that. <S>

Q: from Brian Clarke
Date: Friday, February 18, 2005
Time: 2:48 PM

Comments:

I am seeking any info you may have on a pedigree for a bitch named, Karo Philadelphia Starlight, AKC # 1061095. I have had Dobes for over 25 years as pets but now wish to show. Thank you in anticipation. Brian.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Kennels, USA

I did take the time to look your bitch up in a database that I have and there is only one dog by the name of Karo anything ... it is a Russian Import and has no sire or dam listed.

Q: from Delores
Date: Friday, February 18, 2005
Time: 8:30 PM

Comments: weight

Hi

I have a three year old red female Dobie and I'm guessing she weighs approx. between 85-95 #s. Is this too much? We try and get her to exercise every day or at least every two days. I can feel her ribs without pressing in, but I don't see them like I did before she was spayed.

Is this a weight problem or do you think she is at a normal weight? She is very active when getting out for exercise and enjoys running, but I'm thinking she might be somewhat overweight.

Thanks for your response.

Please contact me by email.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox Kennels, Canada

Hi Delores,
Yes for a bitch to weigh between 85 - 90 lbs is far too mucyh especially when she is altered. Often they will and do gain a lot of weight once spayed. Of course it depends a lot on her previous weight as well as her size and substance but regardless, I would have to say she may very well be overweight at least a little.

Q: from Tanna
Date: Friday, February 18, 2005
Time: 12:43 AM

Comments: human shampoos

Will human dandruff shampoo with the active ingredient Pyrithione zinc harm a puppies skin or body?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

A dandruff shampoo is too strong for dogs especially puppies. There are many good canine shampoos on the market to use. If you are going to bathe puppies, I'd advise a shampoo especially formulated for puppies.

Dobermans, especially puppies need very few baths. A damp cloth will keep the coat clean in most cases.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Tanna:

It is my opinion that you should not use any human shampoos on your dogs. There are many great dog shampoos to use and especially shampoos that are safe for puppies. If your puppy has dandruff it could be the method you are using to bath him.

When you bath your puppy, never pour the shampoo directly on to the back, always put it in your hands and then rub it in to the coat. Always go in the same direction of the coat, never against it. This is true of shampooing, rinsing and drying. If you go against the coat, you will stir up dead skin and cause a flaky coat.

Hope this helps.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Tanna,
In my opinion, shampoos made for dogs are the best and have the correct Ph balance for dogs. Human shampoos tend to be too harsh and drying for dogs. You can work on the dandruff problem from within, diet and also by conditioning the coat. Often dandruff is just dead skin sloughing off.

I think that if you scrolled down on this page of the archives, you will find the formula of a successful mixture. It is easy to mix and reasonably priced too. You can spray this on your dog morning and night and brush it into the haircoat with the hair with a nice bristle brush.

Also you can find on the page some suggestions for the diet to help you obtain a nice healthy glistening coat on your Doberman. The daily brushing will keep the coat rotating and the dead hair out. Lots of petting is great too and I know that will be the easy part.

I am asking you to scroll down because we just recently answered this question two or maybe even three times and the information is there. Also there is an article to click onto on how to bathe a Doberman correctly.

Q: from Victor
Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2005
Time: 11:28 PM

Comments: Day Care

I've read a lot about Dobermans needing constant companionship. What happens when you have to go to work and must leave the dog alone for a while? I've heard some people leave them in kennels. I don't think that's the solution. Is it ok to leave him out in the backyard during the day and let him back in the house once you get back from work? Are there other solutions?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Victor:

I you have a secure place in the yard with shelter and water there is no reason they can not be out there while you are at work. You may have a problem with neighbors if he is a barker. A kennel is another solution but a puppy
really should not be confined for much longer than 4-5 hours at a time. I have raised dogs both ways, crated when I work short hours and out in the yard/garage shelter when I'm gone long hours. If you do chose the yard, you might want to section off an area just for him and a dog house/open kennel with blankets, etc and plenty of water. Dobermans are not conducive to extreme heat or cold outside so you will have to take that in to consideration when designing his "outdoor" area.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Victor,

We just answered a question similar to yours not too long ago. Scroll back on the Q&A pages and take a look at those answers too. I would not just at this time put the puppy in the yard for the day. This will take careful consideration on your part as to whether or not this is a good time for you to bring a puppy into your life. First of all, do you live close enough to your work place to go home at lunch time?

Can your take some vacation time now or when you first bring the puppy home? Your young puppy will need to be fed 3 times a day. He is going to be lonesome being by himself for all of those hours and you do need to get your sleep too. He will need to bond with you and learn your routine and basically, you need to be there at first.

Your should set him up into a smaller place rather than your whole backyard or the house. He is going to be bored and can find a lot of things to do that may not be desirable. You will need to set him up with a bed, toys and
maybe have a radio on for noise for just a few suggestions.

If you cannot take this time off and get a good start with you puppy, this may not be a good time. You can maybe find in your area, a day care center for puppies where the person caring for the dogs is knowledgeable and have
your puppy send some days there while you are working. The only problem with this is that the puppy is likely to bond more with these people than with you. When you do get home from work you will need to spend a lot of quality
time with your puppy. You will have to do a lot of sacrificing of yourself too. This is quite the responsibility. Your breeder should be able to discuss with you things to do for your puppy in your particular situation. This is not the best situation but it can be workable.

Here are some articles for help:
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/questbuyer.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/therightbreed.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/dogcrates.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/housebreaking.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/happy_healthy_confident_puppy.htm

These articles will give to you some more "food for thought" about your important decision about bringing a puppy into your life now. The question here is, can you do this and do well by the puppy to have him/her grow up to be a good citizen and a great family member and companion for you?

I hope this is of help and please consider this decision carefully to insure that this will work for you and you can enjoy your companion for his lifetime.

Q: from Isaac
Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2005
Time: 8:08 PM

Comments: Temperament

We are getting a red Doberman male in a couple weeks and I had a few questions. The breeder always talks about how beautiful the puppy is and how much he thinks he would be good for a stud or anything else. But recently, he has been telling us that he is an alpha male and is worried that we can't handle this. He is pressuring us to take one of his blue females instead and this all sounds awful suspicious but we are not sure. We want to pick up the dog sooner than later at this point but he tells us that according to regulations he has to keep the dog for 2 weeks after the ears have been cropped. So, one, I have experience with alfa male Siberian Huskies, is there anything I need to be concerned with more with Dobermans. And, is that really a regulation, because I cannot find that anywhere.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Issac,

I always advise people that get the feelings that you are about this breeder, that if you see a "red flag", listen to yourself. I don't know of that regulation either unless the puppy is 4 weeks old or something. The puppy should be at least 8 weeks old before he leaves the breeders home though, in my opinion.

Anyway, you can talk to the breeder and discuss with what you know about the handling and training the puppy from the day that you get the puppy and that you know that you need to be the "alpha". Tell the breeder of your experience and he in turn should be able to offer knowledge to the conversation. Just communicate with the breeder. It could be that he/she wants to keep the puppy and is not telling you or ????

Another thing too, do not take a puppy that you do not want. In other words if you want a red male Doberman, why would you get a blue female Doberman. To learn more about the blue Doberman, go here and read this article first:
http://www.seattle-attorney.com/storm/sup.html. This article will tell you quite a lot about the dilution color of the
Doberman and you should be fully aware before you should buy one.

I know that you may be disappointed that you may not be getting this particular male, but I would think about walking away from this litter and breeder and continue your search.

Go to http://home.earthlink.net/~dpcabreederreferral to browse a list of breeders that are members of the Doberman Pinscher Club of America. Here you should be able to find a reputable breeder that can also help you
with your questions as well as provide you with a sound puppy both in mind and body and hopefully has made sound breeding decisions based on the health tests of the parents too.

In the meantime, there are several articles on our articles page about temperament, training, the health, how to bring the puppy up and all about the Doberman Pinscher that you can print and read and study.

This is my opinion about your situation as I understand your question.

*** *** ***

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Issac:

Dominant/Alpha males require your ability to be the alpha in their situation at home. You must not let them get away with trying to dominate you from a young age. There are a lot of articles about this on our website, please go to
our article menu and read up on dominance traits and how to raise a puppy.

As far as I know there are no "regulations" about keeping a puppy 2 weeks past ear crop in our Code Of Ethics. Please check this site http://www.dpca.org/ethics.html for further information on breeding, etc. with members of our national club. Also look over www.dpca.org for even more information about our national club.

Good luck.

Q: from LeeAnne
Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2005
Time: 10:40 AM

Comments: Ears Standing

I posted before, thanks for the info. I now would like to know about the ears. My pup is 6 months now, ears are standing very nicely, although they kind of have an S shape. Hard to explain, but, I'm sure some of you have seen it. How do I get the top half of ears to stand correct? It almost seems like his ears are too concave inside causing the tops to 'wing' outwards. I read the post on the breath rite strips, are these attached to the inside or outside of the ears? Thanks in advance for the info (again).

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

LeeAnn:

You can also use moleskin that you buy in a roll from the medical supply store. You cut strips that you can "fold" over the outer edge of the ear, you may need to glue them on. Then you can use one row of adhesive tape around the base of the ear to reinforce it as well.

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello LeeAnne,

In my opinion at 6 months, his ears are not ready for the breathe rite taping method and you should continue with the posting method of taping the ears for a while longer. Do you have our article about taping the ears? I personally like the method in the 11th article by Carol Petruzzo. She also in the #12 article talks about taping the older puppy and a little about problem solving.

The tops of the ears are the last to harden and stand tall. One question that you can answer for me though is, is the S-shape cut in or do the ears appear weak at that point.

Another suggestion is when you do post the ears, cover the weak area with the tape too and stretch the ears upon the post. The post should have tape on it sticky side out too, so the ear can stick to the tape and help stretch it and hold it that way.

Here are the ear taping articles:
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/ears1.htm

Just keep taping for a little while longer, you are almost there for the beautiful strong ears standing at 12 o'clock. It is a lot of work and you will be happy in the end that you persevered in the taping.

Q: from Patty O'Shea
Date: Monday, February 14, 2005
Time: 10:48 PM

Comments: Temperament

Hi to all!

I have a two year old Dobie Male. He is a wonderful dog. We started the whole socialization process at 8 weeks old. Took him to malls, inside stores, out to our barn, to puppy kindergarten, agility, handler classes obedience, dogs parks, construction sites, horse shows, even 2 years worth of aids walks.

Last year he began to bark and growl at strangers. People would put their hands out for him to sniff. He would walk up with a friendly wagging tail, then look up at the person, back away and growl. He never does this at the dog park, all dog people seem to be his friends. If they don't have a dog, they are the enemy. We realised early on there was something amiss when we would try to "Treat bait" him in both agility and obedience. We tried every treat on the market, even raw meat, nothing caught his attention. Dartanion loves food (he's over 114lbs) but is not fat. I recently took him to my vet and he told me that he thought Dar had no sense of smell. He never sniffs the ground during walks, never marks after other dogs, never sniffs the rear ends of other dogs. Would this explain why he can't tell friend from foe?

The people in his inner circle he loves, but he barks at them until they come into the light, or until they take off things like hats. As soon as he can see them he is so happy! Has anyone else experienced this? We have tried everything. We even went to a behaviourist and he agreed that our vet is most likely right.

Can anyone else shed light? Will this be hard to live with a dog without a sense of smell?

Dar is a 100% indoor dog who gets 15 miles of trail running a weekend and then 2 hours of running/outdoor play a day plus 3 walks. We also do one handler class a week, 2 obedience classes and 1 agility class plus a fun side by side horse/dog jumping round. He is with various other dogs all the time and doesn't suffer separation issues.

Please Help!!!

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Patty:

Unfortunately, I have never experienced such a problem nor have I ever heard of it. It does sound, however, that you have tried a lot of avenues to try to isolate the problem. I would say that you will just have to continue to work through it with him, I know that dogs can learn to compensate for handicaps like blindness, deafness, and loss of limb. I don't see why he won't learn to also deal with this. I would say that he will need to be able to see the stranger clearly and I would continue to introduce him to situations where he has to meet people. If food is not a motivator than you need to find something that is. Perhaps a favorite toy, ball, or something else. Almost all dogs have something they like and will respond to. I think, perhaps, continuing with a private trainer or behaviorist would be a good thing also.

Q: from Joelle
Date: Sunday, February 13, 2005
Time: 8:59 PM

Comments: AKC

My Doberman is a beautiful 4 month old red. Unfortunately the breeder didn't have them registered...anything I should do for breeding? He is all Vet checked and they said he is perfect...even his hips and would be a good breeding dog.

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Hello Joelle

If you want to be a reputable breeder, then you should do what you can to get your puppy registered first of all. Find out if the parents are registered and what their registrations numbers are. At 4 months of age, it is way too young to determine how his hips will be later in life. When he turns 2 years of age, take him to your vet and have his hips x-rayed and sent to OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) to have his hips evaluated to determine if he has or hasn't hip dysplasia. Then you need to have his Thyroid checked to be sure he doesn't have a thyroid problem. You will need to have his eyes checked by an Opthamologist (CERF'd) to ensure he doesn't have any inheritable eye problems, he should be checked by a Cardiologist and have a heart Ultrasound done to check his heart for any signs of Cardiomyopathy or other heart problems. This is just the beginning of testing BEFORE you even begin to think about breeding. If you can't get him registered, then you should not be breeding him at all. Go back to our article menu and read every single article on the site and educate yourself, especially the ones about breeding. Please
don't breed without registering your dog and certainly not before you do all the possible health tests available.

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Joelle,

If your 4 month old puppy is eligible to register your breeder can still register him with the AKC. If he is not eligible than your puppy wouldn't be either and why would you want to breed him?

Also, he will need to have his hips x-rayed to truly see if his hips are normal and he does not have Hip Dysplasia. Unless you do a procedure called Penn-Hip, the hips usually cannot be diagnosed one way or another until the
pup is about two years old. A person can have a preliminary x-ray done at an earlier age but it is not for sure. The bottom line is your vet cannot just look at a puppy and say that his hips are good. They must be x-rayed. With
him giving you information like that, I would think about seeking another more informed veterinarian, myself. It is recommended that a dog not be bred until this has been determined.

Also there are other health tests that must be done before any Doberman be bred. He should have an DNA test for Von Willebrand's Disease, have a complete thyroid panel done, a CERF test (eye test) and a echocardiogram or Holter monitor reading and a sonogram of his heart. He must be found to have normal readings of these tests so breeding decisions can be made based on good health.

You also need to find out from your breeder if his parents and grand-parents have had all of this done and record the findings in your dogs file.

This is only the beginning. The heart needs to be done on a yearly basis as does the thyroid panel.

You need to read some of our articles and our Doberman breed standard too and learn what traits that you should be breeding for the ideal Doberman and to learn about your puppy's traits. You need to learn about his temperament
traits according to the standard and the ideal and make breeding decisions towards achieving the ideal Doberman and Ideal Doberman temperament as described in the Doberman Pinscher Standard. You need to learn of how your
dog fits, both good traits and the not so good traits, the Standard for the ideal Doberman. Here is an article that will help understand the standard more - DPCA BreedStandard.

There are more of these types of articles on the site too, this is one of them.
dobes_in_detail

Here is one about temperament testing and how to use the results in breeding.

breeders tools.

There are more articles about temperament too.

There are articles about the health problems that plague the Doberman to read so that you understand why the testing. There are a tremendous amount of articles to learn by on our pages. You need to go to the article
menu and just go through them and choose some or all to read and learn. You can print them out too to read at your convenience or leisure.

Your pup is only 4 months old and breeding time is a long way away. You may find that your pup may not be a Doberman to breed too. I have had to make the decision to not breed Dobermans that completed the requirements to
become an AKC champion of record. You may find that it may be a bigger decision than you want to be responsible for too. Breeding dogs is a big responsibility. You cannot keep all of them and good responsible homes are hard to find. Many Dobermans end up in rescue and have very uncertain lives. Some are lucky and many are not.

This is my opinion and I hope that I have helped you and answered your question. As you can see by this sampling, there is plenty that you have to do for breeding. There are articles on the site too about preparing dogs for breeding and all of that should you decide to go ahead with the decision to breed your dog.

Enjoy your puppy and to do that and to get some ideas about how to bring your puppy up, there are articles on our pages and books that you can buy. One booklet I can recommend is Super Puppy, How to Raise the Best Dog You'll Ever Have by Peter Vollmer. You can get this book for under $10.00 from www.bookwise.com or from the author himself at www.superpuppy.com. You can enroll him now in puppy classes so you can learn to teach him
things. I highly recommend the book.

Another thing that you should and I forgot to mention. It is common protocol for the owner of the female to seek the male dog for their female rather than the male owner seek the female. The female owner will have done all of the studying of their female and seek the male that best fits her criteria and what she needs to improve upon.

Remember, It is our duty to preserve and protect the Doberman Pinscher and the Standard of the Ideal in any proposed breeding that I may make whether with a female or a male.

Thank you.

Q: from Shari
Date: Saturday, February 12, 2005
Time: 2:38 PM

Comments: behavior

Our 6 year old Yorkie has recently been very ill. She has been diagnosed and is taking medicines now for Lymphangectasia. She has lost her memory of most of her commands and has begun to lick everything in sight excessively. Can you offer advice?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans. USA

Hello Shari,
I would check back with the veterinarian and make sure that your Yorkie is not having an adverse effect from the medication as soon as possible, like call him now. Maybe he can suggest something else or help you regulate the medication.

Q: from Sandy McCrae
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2005
Time: 10:38 PM

Comments: Dog sitting

I have a female Dobe 3 yrs., a female Dobe 5 yrs. (the mother) and a male German Shorthair Pointer 6 yrs. A 19 month female English Setter will be visiting 4 days (a relative's who has only had her 2 weeks). When we introduced them last week, the Setter loved me and wouldn't leave my side and "hid" behind me some of the time, even in the presence of the owner. This made the dominant 3 yr. Dobe a little jealous. Twice the Dobe verbally did a sort of aggressive bark at the setter as the setter tried to cross her path, but didn't seem to show teeth. I took it that the Dobe was telling the visitor that I was hers and this is her home. The male Pointer, which is usually the "odd man out" in relation to the Dobes playing and left to the sidelines, seemed to enjoy having someone who wanted to play with him. The setter seemed comfortable being here as long as I was in her sight and I will be home the entire 4 days. She didn't seem afraid, just is a people person, and did go outside with the others many times. The setter is crated where mine lay on dog beds in the living room, so she'll have her own "space" when needed. The setter hasn't been trained, so knows very little commands. They have free access to outdoors via a dog door. I don't think there will be a problem having the setter come next week, but should we re-introduce them again prior? Should I feed in separate locations? Any suggestions?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans. USA

Hello Sandy,

Yes you should feed them in separate locations or stand with them until they are all finished and you pick up the dishes. In other words, don't feed them all in the same room unattended and to be safe, I would just separate them.

Dogs will be dogs and this is how they sort things out and they are all different and do things for different reasons. Basically though, none of the dogs that live there want to give up anything that is theirs to the visiting dog and that includes you and the rest of their family. As time goes by they do get it all sorted out and work things out. The Setter is hiding behind you probably because it is overwhelmed by all of these alpha animals are sending it signals that this is their place. It is kind of fun to watch dogs interact in these situations. Seriously though, you are the boss and they need to know that and you to exert this to them and intervene when your control is needed every time. Threat them all equally too.

I would let them out in groups of two only. Maybe the GSH Pointer can run with the Setter. If that doesn't work and you can't find a compatible dog to go out with the Setter, than have the Setter go out by herself. It is only for 4 days.

Actually I have my yard divided up into several yards, so in my situation I can have the visitor outside with my dogs only separated in it's own place. When I see them acting friendly towards one another I let one of mine with the dog. The last one that I had here started playing with my dogs through the fence and I took the cue, allowed then together in the big yard and the two dogs had a great time running and playing together. This happened after a few days though.

I think that your using the crate for the visitor is smart. I do that when visitors come for a few days and after a few days, I carefully introduce them with one dog at a time. Since the Setter is only going to only be there for 4 days, I would have her sleep in the crate. If you let them all be together, you do run the risk of a problem and if that happens all of your dogs will gang up on the visitor and that could be a hard situation for you to control. So just be sensible and allow only whatever you think that you can handle if things should get out of control. I suggest the visitor hang with just one of your dogs and not all three for the time the she (the Setter) is going to be in your care. Better safe than sorry.

I hope that this is of help to you.

*** *** ***

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Sandy:

It could be harmless dominance but I would not take any chances with a guest. You should introduce them slowly and not toss them out in the yard together all at once. I would let the pointer and the setter out to play together in the yard but not all three for at least a day and then watch the interaction in the house. There is a theory some people have that the larger the space the better and they will work out their place in the pack but I have found when I do that with three dogs that don't live together, often two will "gang" up on one and you don't want that. I think your Doberman is basically telling the setter who's the boss and most likely the setter will submit to it.

Q: from Sandy McCrae
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2005
Time: 10:06 PM

Comments: Health

I purchased a female puppy, then the mother as the breeder didn't want to breed anymore. The mother had a litter at one year, then the second at two years of age, which I know was too early. The mother was spayed 2 months after the second litter; the daughter at 5-1/2 months old. They both have incontinence. The mother doesn't stop leaking unless I give her 6 Proin 50 mg. per day; the daughter just needs 1 per day. This seemed excessive, so our vet tried DES. That only worked in combination of (1) two days a week along with (6) Proin five days a week. Does anyone know of anything else I can do, as I go through 37 tablets a week of Proin 50 (plus the DES) and it gets expensive. Every time I've tried weaning her off of any of the combinations, she just "pours" or "drips" excessively. Any safe procedures known? Anyone know where I can purchase Proin more inexpensively than KV Vet?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Sandy,

I personally haven't had a lot of experience with incontinence. I did have one dog that I had to give a pill that I think it was Diethylstilbestrol (DES) to every three days and when I started my dogs on another diet (raw) it mysteriously went away after a few months on the new diet and never returned and she just passed away at 13 plus years of age.

This DES may be the one that is off the market, I don't know, but ask your vet about that too. He will know. My raw diet does have herbs in it so there must be something to that.

Your girls do seem to be doing this excessively. I think that you and your veterinarian need to work together to find something that you don't have to give so much of. I wished that I save my dogs medication so I could tell you what it was. In the meantime try Judy Bohnert's Tofu method. Heck you never know.

Do you think that maybe the younger dog (51/2 months) could be urinating out of submission or a touch of fear from the scolding about going in the house? That is common for young puppies that hang out with older dogs an sometimes with people too. They often outgrow this problem with confidence building. Sometimes puppies do it in moments of excitement too. At 51/2 months of age she is a puppy.

I was reading this book that I have and you can treat this with herbs and other natural remedies. Here is the name of the book, if you should want to buy it and have it on hand, The book is the Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care by CJ Puotinen. It talks about incontinence on pages 434, 435, 449 and 450 and probably elsewhere. They talk about hops in the book, but you should get the book and read for yourself if you would like to try the Natural way to go.

These are a few ideas to consider as well as the answers from the others.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

I know of a lady that has a nine year old female who came to her at 6 years of age with an incontinent problem. She apparently has been giving her tofu every couple of months for the last two years and so far "not a drip".

Apparently the tofu contains a natural estrogen that helps with this problem.

She gives her girl a block of tofu over a several day period every couple of months.

*** *** ***

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Sandy:

I feel this is a question for your veterinarian. I have not used these two drugs in combination but I have had great success with DES. I have a 9 1/2 year old on DES once a week and that seems to have her stablized. She was originally on Proin but after a while it did not work. She started on a frequent doses of DES and was slowly weaned to once a week.

Q: from Sheila
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2005
Time: 1:59 PM

Comments: Health

What is normal for a puppy when losing baby teeth? How many teeth are usually lost at one time? Should their chew toys be limited or changed when they lose one or two teeth?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Sheila:

Every puppy is different, some loose them methodically and others loose a lot at a time. Not to worry and you don't need to take any of the toys away.

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Sheila,

This is a little different with each puppy. Dobermans do shed their teeth pretty rapidly and can lose a few at a time. They start with losing the very front teeth, incisors. The process is about a month or a tad longer.

Your puppy can have his chew toys, bones and etc. In fact these toys give him comfort during the process. I don't think that you need to change them, but you can judge that because you are seeing them. During this teething process, often times the teething process takes a lot of the nutrients that you are giving them and the feet may flatten and the ears will drop. It will all come back to normal when it is finished. Tape the ears and you can give just a little more calcium during this time too. I like to give one Pet-Cal a day along with Pet-Tabs and Vitamin C and Vitamin E too to help the nutrients get the ears and the feet too.

*** *** ***

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Sheila

Teething puppies will chew on most anything. Chewing facilitates teething: in other words, chewing helps make sore gums feel better, and helps loose teeth fall out. A puppy is much like a baby where everything goes in the mouth. That is how they explore their world and learn about their world.

Normally, the puppy will bleed from the gums a little when a tooth comes out. How many teeth will come out at once ? There is no hard and fast rule here. I have puppies lose 3 or 4 at a time or within a few minutes of each other. Losing one or two teeth wouldn't be the reason to limit or change their chew toys. However, chewing on such things as furniture, old socks, shoes, etc is. In other words, use chew toys to distract the puppy away from chewing on what you find unacceptable and offer different chew toys instead and the puppy will learn that the toys are his/hers to chew on rather than what you may find offensive. You may rotate your puppy's toys as in doing so will keep him/her more interested in the toys rather than the furniture, etc. Experiment with the toys.

Also if the puppy is teething, you may want to try freezing a wet washcloth for him/her to chew on or you can buy teething toys for puppies that you can freeze and give them rather than cloth. Always supervise the puppy. Hope this helps.

Q: from Dave
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2005
Time: 12:32 PM

Comments: Conformation/Handling

My female Doberman is pregnant, she is almost 6 weeks. A local breeder told me to start feeding her every day of:

1/2 cup oil
1 pound hamburger
2 Calcium pills
2 Raw eggs
1 cup of cottage cheese
mixed with 2 cups of puppy chow

Fed once a day with regular meals as usual. I did this for about a week, and she has ballooned in size, but it's all around her gut. She looks FAT not fit. Her "tuck-up" is totally gone and she now just looks like a very overweight Doberman.

When I took her to show her to the breeder that had suggested this, he said "She looks like she's coming along very well !" I have noticed that her mammary glands have grown very quickly in the last 2 weeks. I had asked him if he thought this was a false pregnancy but he said "No, you can see the puppies in her" and true enough in spots in her "tuck up" you can see large bulges in her side.

Is this what she's supposed to be eating?

I went by akcdobermans.com for more detailed info, but the site is down for a month. So I came across your site from a link on their site.

I have attached a picture of her, http://www.charlottewebhosting.com/dobe.jpg so you can see what she looks like and give comments.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello again Dave,
Yes it does look as though your girl has become pregnant. I think that you need to slow down on the feeding. Feed her twice a day and increase her food to approximately 1/2 more in addition to the amount that you are feeding now each meal. The suggestions of the food that your breeder has suggested is good only maybe a little less of every thing except the hamburger. I would say at each meal morning and night to give to her 1/2 lb hamburger, less oil, 2 tablespoons), 1whole egg including the crushed up shell a day, 1/4 cup cottage cheese (or yogurt or buttermilk) per meal.

Feed a good quality of puppy kibble or high quality adult kibble.

Give to her Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and fish oil.

For the calcium and the multi-vitamins, I like to recommend products made for dogs. I like the products, Pet Tabs and Pet Cal myself. Maybe your vet carries them or Petco or PetSmart pet stores.

Actually, maybe with the good quality food you will have enough calcium. Use your good judgment. A person has to be careful with Calcium with giving too much or too little.

I believe that when we answered your last questions I gave you the URLS to articles on our pages about preparing and the whelping of the actual puppies. All you have to do is click them and the articles should come up.
Here are some others in case she is going to have puppies.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/birthing_process.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/bitches_whelping.htm

I also gave you some about the pregnancy itself.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/pregnancy_diagnosis.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/pregnancy_timeline.htm

If you didn't read these articles after we wrote back to the last time, now is the time to do this. You need to educate yourself real quick for the preparing, whelping and the raising of these puppies.

I am working on getting a chart up now about the feeding and when to increase the food. After she has the puppies, you will need to increase the food even more.

You also need to fix a quiet place for her to have these puppies and you need to take a crash course on what you should do during this time. I am glad that you have found a breeder that can give to you some guidance.

After the pups are here and if all is well, you need to have your vet do the tails at approximately 3 days. Your vet will tell you when and I hope it is about this time.

I need to remind you and warn you again that taking care of the puppies is hard work and also time consuming. There are more articles on our articles pages for helping you get them raised up to 8 weeks and beyond. Again, if all goes well, the puppies can start going to their new home at 8 weeks. There is an article on our pages too about the vaccination protocol too. Our web-site is all about the breeder so please use them for help and guidance. Here are some articles about raising the puppies from birth. These articles are for education and are guidelines.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/battneurostimulation.htm and then click after you open up the article.
"DEVELOPING HIGH ACHIEVERS". This a great thing to do with the pups. I do this with mine and the article is correct with the benefits.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/educate_pups.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/care_of_newborn.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/educate_pups.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/ruleof7.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/puppyadvice.htm

This just a sampling of articles for more knowledge. Be sure to use this web-site and check for more articles that can help you through this endeavor of having a litter and dealing with the responsibility.

Here is an article just for general dog knowledge.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/superpuppy.htm

You can print all of these articles out for yourself to have on hand for reference. If you need more help, don't hesitate to ask.
Pleaser take a look at our feeding a pregnant or lactating bitch chart. It too can be printed off and you need to have it right away.

*** *** ***

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Dave

This is what I feed my bitches in whelp :

1/4 cup cottage cheese 2%
4 tbsp plain yogurt
1/4 cup cooked very lean hamburger (well drained of fat or oil)
1/4 cup chopped up Spinach
1 raw egg OR 1 hard boiled egg (daily)
3-4 very small pieces cooked liver (daily)
1 tsp Kelp or Sea Meal (daily)
1 - 1mg tablet Folic Acid (daily) - given to help prevent birth defects
1/2 tsp. Ester C powder (daily)
1 - 50mg tablet Zinc (daily)
1 - 200IU or 400 IU capsule Vitamin E (daily)
1 - 1000mg capsule Salmon Oil

1 1/2 - 2 cups puppy food (for higher protein) x 3 to 4 times daily as she wants to eat. I mix in the first 4 ingredients with it. You can change the cottage cheese and yogurt and give one one time and the other the next time, just to give her some variety. I often will give my bitches steak, or heart, or anything that is high in protein and iron.

I do NOT feed calcium pills as it isn't needed with the high protein puppy food. What she needs is a high protein diet with good healthy supplements for healthy puppies and bitch. I also do NOT feed my bitches oil of any kind. The supplements I only give once daily.

I feed my bitch as much as she wants several times daily. Remember she has babies to feed. I hope this helps.

Q: from K. Nolte
Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2005
Time: 11:57 PM

Comments: EARS

I have a 4mos old Doberman male. His ears are standing wonderfully, except the tips are beginning to flop back a bit. It is just the top 1/2 inch. I have seen where some of you are using breathe right strips...these will not stick. Any other suggestions? The rest of the ear is very sturdy and does not need taping. I was hoping someone has another suggestion so I can keep from doing the whole ear again.

Thanks

*** *** ***

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Hello K. Nolte

Get yourself some skin bond glue and glue the no snore strips to the ear and tape it overtop. Another thing you can do is if you can get your hands on some old x-ray film, cut a piece to cover the area of the ear needed and tape the film to the ear with duct tape. Works well. Good luck.

*** *** ***

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Try buying a roll of moleskin (not mole foam) from a medical supply store. Cut a strip that would fit over the edge of the ear folded over so it covers the edge and a small portion of the ear on either side of the edge. Place it from about the middle of the ear all the way up to the tip, use skin bond if you need to. Then take one strip of 1" tape and run it around the ear to brace it just above the "button" from the inside then around counter-clockwise and back to the front. That should brace the ear and the moleskin will stay on for a long time without coming off. You'll need adhesive remover to take it off.

*** *** ***

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello K. Nolte,
Have you tried using skin-bond to adhere the breathe-rite stripes to the ears? You can get this at a store that sells surgical and medical supplies. Also I learned the other day that Rite- Aid carries a brand that is are plastic and much stiffer.

I feel that since he is only 4 months old that you need to continue to tape the whole ear as you have been doing. The top of the ear is the last to learn to stand and the constant taping of the whole ear is the best at this age. The breathe-rite method comes later, like 8,9, or 10 months old and older.

I always tell to people that get a cropped Doberman puppy that they will be taping the ears for at least 6 months to get them to stand perfectly straight and tall at the 12 o'clock position. It is a lot of work and a person does get tired of doing it, but you will be happy in the end for a the life of your Doberman dog.

There seems to be something with the covering the ears with tape and keeping them warm that helps with the hardening of the cartilage.

Also Vitamin C helps harden the cartilage, so supplement his diet with Vitamin C and Vitamin E works with the C so give that too. I have heard of another theory too and that is that Glucosomine also supports the cartilage. I am trying that now on my own Doberman to see if I can make a weak ear stronger.

I have another thing that I also tell people who have a cropped Doberman in their life is that we choose to crop the ears so it is our responsibility to complete the job and have the surgically cut ears trained to stand. Like I already said, you will be happy for all of the hard tedious work after you see them standing correctly day in and day out.
If you need more taping help, refer to our articles on taping ears here:
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/ears1.htm

Q: from Bill Schott
Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2005
Time: 6:33 PM

Comments: Health

I have a 3.5 year old male Doberman that has been fixed who licks one of his hind legs to the point of it being raw. In addition he has severe separation anxiety. On separation occasions our vet has prescribed comicalm (sp??), prozac, and phenobarbetral. None of these helped either situation. If we try to wrap the leg, he will chew through the bandage in a matter of minutes.

He gets a lot of exercise on the weekends (30-40 minute runs and/or time at the dog park). During the week he will get an occasional run and almost daily walks of short distance 1/2 mile to a mile.

He is left alone during work hours and then needs constant attention once we get home.

Any suggestions for the licking problem and the separation anxiety.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Bill,

The reasons for your Doberman to be licking his leg to the point of it being raw can be one of many.

You may need to take him to the vet for examination. We call the sore from this licking a lick granuola and it could have an infection to cause him to lick it constantly. You can treat this by soaking the leg and the lick spot in Epsom salts everyday to draw out the infection. Your vet may have an easier remedy. I once had a dog that I got back from a former owner that had these on all four legs and the vet told me that I wouldn't cure it. I did by cure it soaking the legs and sores twice a day everyday for a long time and once the infection was gone, she never licked her legs again for as long as she lived. Actually she quit a few days after I started soaking them. In the case of this dog, she licked and licked because she was neglected and bored in her small quarters day in and day out. After she was cured, her temperament was one of the best that I have owned. The hair all grew back to normal too. Hers were BAD!

He could in some sort of pain maybe. His separation anxiety could be causing him to do this too.

For that problem, I would seek an dog behavioralist for help. He/she can put you and your dog on a rehabilitation program to help this. I am all for working on this problem without drugs or if necessary in conjunction with depending on the severity of the problem.

There is an article about behavioral problems on our article pages but it doesn't address this separation anxiety problem.

So those are my suggestions, find out about the licking from your vet and treat it and seek a professional person to help you with the separation anxiety too.

Q: from Kay Rose
Date: Thursday, February 3, 2005
Time: 4:10 PM

Comments: Doberman Health

Two months ago I switched to Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken. My Cuervo's coat has become very dry, dull and flaky (large flakes). I supplement with Vit C, Vit E, Fish oil, Flaxseed, and Solid Gold Sea meal. I fed Pro plan before the switch (what my breeder feeds), but I am always researching dog foods and know there has got to be a right diet for Dobermans. A Boxer breeder told me about Innova Evo. Does anyone feed this or know anything about it? Please let me know what Doberman people tend to feed. My puppy is just starting his show career and is already handicapped with a novice for an owner. I don't want to do him the injustice of taking him into the ring with a coat in bad shape. Please help!!!

A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Kay

There is obviously something about her food that is disagreeing with the dog. Unfortunately, we are not able to recommend the best food to feed as we all feed different foods because each dog is unique and each his/her own individual. What works for one dog may not work for another. It is trial and error only and when you find one that works, stick with it. One suggestion I do have is to research all the different food companies and have a look at the ingredients in all of them. Decide for yourself which you want to feed or which one is best for YOUR dog.

*** *** ***

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Kay: If you ask 10 people this question you are likely to get 10 different answers. Some Doberman people are feeding RAW diet and some are feeding a combination of RAW and commercial. In my house we cook a "stew" comprised of vegies and chicken and we add that to a good commercial kibble. I have feed all of the foods you mention to varying degrees of satisfaction. You need to find the food that the puppy does well on and don't switch if it's working. I had coat problems with Inova, Iams, and Eukanuba but my dogs are doing well on Pro Plan and they did well on Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice. Just makes sure you feed a well balanced diet of kibble/meat and supplements (like the ones you mention).

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Kay,

We all feed different products. For everyone of us there is a brand we think is best. The old saying, if it ain't broke don't fix it goes with food. If it's working you keep using it. If it isn't you find one that will do the job. Just try another brand. You have to use it for at least a month to see any real changes. If it isn't working, make sure there is not another underlying problem by having the Vet check out the pup.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Kay,
None of us should be recommending dog foods on this Q&A forum.
One thing that I can say though, is you need to give a food a couple of months (maybe less) at least to show a change for you to decide if it is going to work.

Like why did you change from the Pro Plan food? Was you dog doing okay on that? If so, then you should consider not feeding the Eagle brand. I would suggest adding hamburger to your dogs food and a Tablespoon of a vegetable oil too and maybe the flaxseed oil too (if you are not feeding the oil, but are flaxseed). Feed a Tablespoon of the Flaxseed oil as well as the vegetable oil.

As far as the Innova foods go, I hear of people liking the results with that brand of food.

For the dandruff and the flaky skin, you need to work on that from the inside (food) and also from the out side.
It was suggested for an answer to another question about flaky skin to mix into a spray bottle:

1/3 Listerine Mouthwash (Original or Mint) (thus kills any bacteria)
1/3 Alpha Keri (original, not the aftermarket brands) (puts the keratin back in the skin) Skin So Soft works too.
1/3 water (dilutes the mixture)

Spray this mixture onto your Doberman and brush it into the coat. Wipe it dry or into the coat more with your hands too or just with your hands. You should do this daily. This also helps loosen and remove the dead dry coat too. This daily care plus a good food and the additives should turn this around for you.

Also, there is a similar question by Brian about half way down the Q&A page about dry flaky coats. You may want to check the answers on that too.

Also on our pages there is an article about the proper way to bathe a dog that will be helpful to you too.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/bathing_dogs.htm

There are other questions about feeding too on the Q&A pages.

I hope the we have helped you.

Q: from Johnny Reed
Date: Thursday, February 3, 2005
Time: 11:42 AM

Comments: Doberman Health

I purchased an 8-week-old Dobe puppy (Boo) from a breeder in Texas. I received a call the night before he was flown to me and the breeder had said that another one of her dogs had stepped on the puppy's foot. She said that their Vet had looked at the foot and said it was most likely just sprained.

When I picked Boo up at the Airport on Friday (Jan 28) he was seriously limping. The next day I took him to the Vet for a full check up and he looked at Boo's foot. The Vet said it was most likely just a torn ligament or tendon and he gave me some anti-inflammatory medicine. By Tuesday, Boo was still limping so I took him back to the Vet. They x-rayed his leg and it was in fact "Broken" just above his left front paw.

Wednesday morning he went in for surgery to have a plate/screws placed in the leg. The Vet said this was his best chance for a full recovery. I will be picking him up from the Vet today (Thursday) to bring him home.

Has anyone ever cared for an 8-week-old puppy with this type of injury? Will this affect Boo's ability to be fully active down the road?

I will have him on a combination diet of "Blue" kibble, multivitamins, Anti-oxidants (A, C, E, Zinc, Selenium), with additional Vitamins B, D and chromium, Nupro food supplement, Protease enzyme, Yogurt, and poached egg (cooked egg white with raw yolk), and blended veggies (carrots and broccoli).

The breeder has offered to replace him, but for us this is NOT an option. Boo has the best personality of any dog I have ever known and, even with a broken leg, romped and played without whimpering. We have absolutely fallen in love with him. My concern is that Boo heals quickly and fully. Any advice on how to care for him would be greatly appreciated.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello,

Your vet should be asked this question about how to care for your puppy and follow his direction. "Boo" is young and that is in his favor. By the description of the sugary, his break was a bit serious. Your diet sounds good and the vitamins will help the healing process. I don't know of the "Blue" dog food. You can add fresh raw meat (hamburger is good) to this too. Ask your vet about adding the extra vitamins A and D too. Multi-vitamins (like Pet-Tabs) made for dogs are better than the human ones too for the ratio for dogs. Be careful about not over doing it on the vitamins. You can give a 1000 mgs of Vitamin C 2 times a day and 400 units of Vitamin E 2 times a day. Build him up on the C and if he should get loose stools back it off a little and build back up slowly.

You will need a balance of the calcium and phosphorous too and yogurt is better than cottage cheese with this, so the yogurt is good, also buttermilk for something a little different. If you gave the whole egg, shell and all (run it through the blender with the veggies) that will give him a better balance as well. The shells offer a natural calcium.

If you have other dogs, have Boo wait to play with them until he is well on the road to healing. I am guessing that he will have a cast like bandage on for protection. Your vet will most like advise you about how often to change the bandage because of his fast growth. Follow his suggestions and don't be bashful about asking questions. It is a great possibility that he will heal up and be normal. I had a puppy break a leg (a spiral break) and he grew up to be a champion and had no problem with it later on in life. In his cast, he got around just fine and learned to cope with it and be a natural puppy. Dogs are very resilient and let things flow and don't seem to be bothered with stuff.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Johnny:

I personally have not experienced a break on a puppies leg or foot at a young age but I knew of someone who did and the recovery was absolutely fine. In fact that puppy went on to become a champion and never had any side affects. It all depends on how badly the break is, what was done and how the procedure was done. I would say it's a wait and see issue and your vet should be able to give you a pretty good opinion as to whether or not there will be any ill affects.

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A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, USA

Johnny

Personally I have never had a dog with a broken toe. Your best source of advice is to ask your vet as to his ability to lead a normal life. Otherwise, it sounds like you are doing a wonderful job of raising him. Keep up the good work. Even in humans, a toe that has been broken will eventually heal but may heal crooked but won't stop one from walking or running. He will learn to compensate adequately.

Q: from Mark

Date: Tuesday, February 1, 2005
Time: 3:04 AM

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

Hi, I have a 7 month old male Doberman and he seemed to be shy to strangers. Is there a way to change his temperament?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Mark,

Yes, I believe that you can turn, with some quality help, make better your young puppy's behavior. Of course this is not the proper behavior for the Doberman. You can bare in mind that he is 6 months old and has grown to a substantial size for a young puppy and it is very possible that he mentally is not as big as he is in inches. If your puppy is truly shy, you can improve this behavior but he will or can from time to time revert back to this behavior with a new situation.

You can help this by patiently encouraging him to be braver. When he shies from any object or a person, you can lead him up to whatever and in a strong voice say something like "check it out" and lead him to it and you touch it and pat it to encourage the puppy to go up to and investigate the object himself. If he does go up to it and sniffs it and checks it out, praise him and repeat the exercise. I like to take them for a leash walk and look for objects such as a fire hydrant and use these objects to encourage the puppy. If it is a person, ask the person to stand tall and not to stoop over and reach for the puppy. This stooping and reaching out sends a negative signal to a dog. So does a tentative tone of voice and baby talk. Actually, I suggest that you search in your area a trainer that offers a puppy training kindergarten class and one that knows Doberman behavior and take your puppy to these classes. Here are some articles to you learn about Doberman temperament. Maybe the breeder of your puppy can direct you or someone that is close to you that is on the DPCA mentors list. For this go to www.DPCA.org and find the link to the mentor program or you can check on the same site for the breeder referral and find a knowledgeable breeder near you. Depending on where you live, I may be able to refer you to someone too.

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/defining_temperament.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/suspicion.htm

You can encourage your puppy to do things like climbing upon an object, like a tree stump or a secure box, or jumping over a low fence by doing it yourself and on lead and have him follow your lead and then praise him for doing this brave thing with you. Everything is encouragement and positive. I am not a fan of using food to encourage the puppy. I like to use my upbeat-strong-firm tone of voice and words to teach and encourage.
Your puppy is at a good age to turn this behavior around.

I hope that I have explained and described these exercises for you to do well enough. It is hard to get it in writing. Whatever you do, doing it correctly and patiently is very important.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Temperament is set in each dog but environment can cause a puppy to become shy of strangers. You should get him out into busy areas like shopping centers, etc. where there a lot of people and encourage them to come up to him and talk to him. A lot of Pet stores allow you to bring in your pets when you are shopping as well. If he has a good sound temperament, the shyness will go away.

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A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Hi Mark

Get him out to socialize him more and the more strangers the better. If you can invite people to your home, give them treats to offer him so he'll think strangers are wonderful people too. Don't force him though. Have strangers offer him treats of your choice so he gets the idea that people are ok. Good luck. Get him out everywhere - parking lots, mall entrances, anywhere there are people.

Q: from LeeAnne
Date: Tuesday, February 1, 2005
Time: 10:53 AM

Comments: Doberman Health

Was just wondering what your opinions are on feeding Nutro Natural Large Breed to my 6 month male pup? When I got him he was being fed Purina One Puppy, I Noticed a large sebaceous cyst on his right shoulder (which concerned me as he's going to show in conformation) Took him to vet, vet aspirated the cyst, tested it and diagnosed a sebaceous cyst. He mentioned it would NOT go away on it's own and should be removed sugically. We booked it and I went home and changed his food to Iams large breed puppy. Cyst disappeared! Totally! Now, I am researching different feeding programs and i've found niether brand is very good, I am impressed with what I've read on the Nutro Natural for large breeds. What is the concensus in this forum?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello LeeAnne,

I am thinking that it may just be coincidental that the cyst just fell of the next day and it may not be related to the diet at all. I am wondering if it was just a pimple (?). Anyway.......

As for the diet. I feel that you should choose a diet and stick to it. I suggest that you choose a kibble that you can add fresh raw hamburger to and other additives like Vits. C and E and fish oil too. I like to add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil (I use Sunflower oil) to the diet too. You cannot see what benefits a diet has for about a month or so of feeding it.

There are a lot of foods (kibbles) out there to choose from. I subscribe to The Whole Dog Journal, www.whole-dog-journal.com. Last year they had an article about the kibbles and rated them. You may want to check this out in your research of foods. The bottom line though is to pick a kibble and stick to it. When I fed kibble, I liked Solid Gold's Hundenfloken. Solid Gold now has an array of kibbles to choose from. I liked this one because it has ingredients that I like to feed as well such as sea meal, fish and other things too.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

LeeAnne:

If you talk to 10 different people about food you will probably get 10 different answers. I raised all of my dogs on Nutro but recently switched them all off it because of various reports on the lamb and rice diet being associated with cardiomyopathy. I don't feed IAM's because in my line I get bleached out markings from feeding it. Basically you want to feed a well balanced diet of kibble and meat and you want to make sure that you are feeding the right balance of protein. Your vet can give you great input as to diet. I do not think the cyst was due to the diet. It's not uncommon for puppies to develop these type of cysts and they can go away but mostly they have to be removed surgically.

Q: from Tim
Date: Tuesday, February 1, 2005
Time: 1:04 PM

Comments: Ear Cropping

My bitch is going to whelp within a week. Could I get it's tail done and ears cropped at the same time in the vet hospital at 2-3 days because most people wait 8 weeks. Why is this? I would imagine ear cropping does not hurt the pup as much as tail docking.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Actually it has been done and it's horrible. You can't cut down in the base of the ears and they would all have to be redone later. No one, not even pet buyers would buy them. Also, you couldn't tape them and by the time you had some leather to work with for taping, it would be too late. DON'T DO IT. If it was so easy, we'd all be doing it.

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A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Dobermans, Canada

Hi Tim

First of all, I don't know of any reputable vet that would crop the ears at 2-3 days of age because the ears aren't even open, which is why they aren't cropped at that age. As well, there has to be enough cartilage to allow the ears to stand and at that age, it would be impossible.

There has to be enough length of leather to form or shape a cropped ear and at 2-3 days old, that's impossible.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Tim,

I am going to answer your question as I think that you are asking it. If you are asking if you can do the ears at the same time that you do the tails at 2 to 3 days, the answer is no. You will see when the puppies are born that the ears are not developed enough to do surgery on. This is why we have to wait until the puppies are 7 to 8 weeks old before we can crop the ears. Tail docking at 2 to 3 days is best for the pups. However, the tails can be done at the same time as the ears at 7 to 8 weeks. Most prefer to do the tails right away unless for some reason they cannot be done at 2 to 3 days for health reasons.

I hope that I have understood your question and answered it as you asked it.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Tim: The ear leather is not developed enough and the length of the ear is not conducive to cropping at that age.

Q: from Rachelle Fryman
Date: Tuesday, February 1, 2005
Time: 8:19 PM

Comments: Doberman Temperament

My 1 year male has shown no interest in his food, toys and has become aggressive. Nothing has changed. He is an inside pet with a fenced yard run and I am at a loss.

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Rachelle:

I would recommend you sign yourself and your dog up for training so you can learn how to prevent him from becoming dominant over your household. Also, are there bitches in season around or near him? Sometimes that will trigger some aggressive behavior and lack of appetite.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Rachelle,
I think that you need to find some local help right away. It sounds as though to me your dog is becoming the boss of the household or he is in some sort of pain or may be not feeling well. Remember that you and all of your family members must be on the same page when dealing with your Doberman. You must be the boss or alpha, just like that you are with the children.

You may want to take him to the vet and make sure that he is healthy and not hurting somewhere or is sick. There has to be some reason for the sudden change of behavior. Has he never shown interest in his food and his toys? Do you or have you played with him with his toys? Do you take him places with you? Do you take him for leash walks? Do you have rules for him in the house? Outside?

After your doing this and if we can help you further, feel free to ask more questions of us. If it is determined that he is not in pain or is not sick look for a trainer or a behaviorist in your area to help you as soon as possible to nip this in the bud.

Here are a couple of articles for you to read too.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/nipnipping.htm
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/Dominance.htm

Q: from Mary

Date: Saturday, January 29, 2005
Time: 11:27 PM

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

My 5 year old bitch is 50 days pregnant and I am feeding her puppy food. I am wondering if she is really pregnant though because her stomach is not showing nor can I see any movement of pups yet like the information on the site said. She is having clear discharge though and her vulva is enlarge and her teats are filled. She is very restless and digging, only eats as much as she used to when she was not pregnant. Could this possibly be a false pregnancy even with the sign of a clear discharge?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Mary,

I think that we may be getting back to you a little late, but if not, take her to the vet and talk to him about having her x-rayed to find out about whether or not she is pregnant. She could only have one or two puppies. If this is the case, she may not come into labor at all and may need a cesarean section at the proper time. Often with one or two puppies this happens and they don't go into labor. I highly recommend the trip to the vet for advise and more info to save both your girl and her puppies. This article covers this and will have a lot of info for you too.

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/birthing_process.htm

We do have an article about this on our pages.

Also there is an article here about what to do in the event that she does have to have that C-section.

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/c-section.htm

There are many other articles about whelping puppies on our site too and also many articles on raising the pups. If you should have puppies here are some great ideas for you to do with the raising of the pups and an article about the periods of a puppies life too for your added knowledge.

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/battneurostimulation.htm

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/battagliahiachievers.htm

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/ruleof7.htm

http://www.dpca-breedered.com/superpuppy.htm

There are so many more, so please go to www.dpca-breedered.com and click onto the articles explore these articles.

You can print these articles too so you can have them on hand. I recommend that you print or take note on the Developing High Achievers so you do the exercises correctly and at the right time too.

Good luck.

Q: from William Alliss
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2005
Time: 6:11 PM

Comments: Traits

I have recently purchased a female Dobie, and have been doing some research on her traits, she has a cowlick on the nape of her neck, from what I can find is that this is the "mark of the dictator" do you have any info on this?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

You may have heard an "urban legend." Ch. Dictator v. Glenhugel had NO cowlick. He did however sire many pups with cowlicks as did other dogs that were not quite as famous.

Another dog, Vanessa's Little Dictator (Ch. Checkmates Chessman x Ch. Valheims Vanessa) was sold to Fred & Julia Curnow of Tavey fame in England, through my husband and myself. Tator himself had a cowlick and was used by many in England and Australia. He caused a lot of stir in those Doberman clubs and at first they put a DQ in their standard for a cowlick. It has since been deemed a serious fault.

Many many great Dobermans in the US and other countries have had cowlicks and most of us find them on our best Dobes. One bitch I bred was Ch. Toledobes Serenghetti who not only had a neck cowlick but a nose cowlick as well and she is the all time top winning Working Group and Doberman bitch in history.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello William,
I just read the answer that Judy Doniere sent for you and she has the history correct about the myth of the cowlick being the mark of Dictator. There have been Dobermans that had a cowlick down the neck way before Dictator. As JuD says, there can be cowlicks elsewhere on the Doberman as well.

Q: from Maxi
Date: Sunday, January 30, 2005
Time: 5:38 AM

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

I have a year old Doberman, I'm worried as she is not gaining weight I'm confused as to what diet is best for her - can you advise??

Also I live in an area where there are many street cats. I must go past these cats/bins to walk her and she goes crazy (she managed to catch one when she slipped her collar). I've muzzled her and this seems to have calmed her slightly any other advice????

One more question - I also have an American Bull (male) (female Dobe) they get along fine but do you think it wise to keep them together ??? Both have been together for the past few months.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Maxi,
Try adding fresh raw hamburger to your Doberman's diet and also 1 tablespoon of some sort of a vegetable oil. I personally use Sunflower oil. If this doesn't work try a digestive enzyme for dogs. She should eat two times a day too and no more than two cups of kibble plus the additives and meat. It is harder for a dog to assimilate more food than that at a time.

Another suggestion is that you can train her to be calmer around the street cats by saying to her to calm down and put her into "heel" position and pet her hair down until she quits quivering and appears and feels calmer. I would stop walking when she sees a cat, or whatever, and let her look and tell her "easy" - "calm down" or the like and pet her hair down repeating the commands until she has calmed down. Praise and continue the walk and repeat the exercise when you and she meets another cat. This will take work and repetition, especially since she got one once. Use a chain collar too to prevent her from slipping out of the collar.

Allowing her to be around and play with your American Bulldog is good too. Let them play together in the yard to spend some of that energy. You can teach them to retrieve and play ball with them too for exercise. Obviously, you will need to separate them when she is in season (her heat cycle) if you don't already have her spayed or him neutered.

I hope that this helps.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Maxi:

She should be getting approximately 1-2 cups of kibble twice a day with meat added. If she's getting too heavy, back the amount of food down by 1/2 cup intervals. I don't see an issue with having her with the American Bull unless of course she's in heat.

Q: from Lorna O'Connor

Date: Sunday, January 30, 2005
Time: 11:40 AM

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

What are some recommendations for keeping 8 week old pups with their ears done safely? Currently, the pups are kept in our kitchen with ex-pens to form a large area and we are beginning to crate overnight. We take them outside for play and exercise. Is there a better way to ensure these pups ears are kept safe and to make sure they progress properly while the ears are healing? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Lorna,
To be honest, I think that you are handling your 8 week old puppies with their newly cropped ears quite nicely. They do need to play with each other and the way that you are handling it is good. Crate training them is great too. The only suggestion that I may add is to go to a surgical supply place and buy stockinet's (spelling) and make a hat out of them by gathering the top together and wrapping a rubber band around it and them turning it inside out. Measure and cut to a length so you can cut out the sides at the other end and tie the newly made sock under the bottom jaw or at the throatlatch (where the jaw meets the front of the neck). You can untie these to clean the ears daily if that is what you are doing. The cut edges can still breathe too and are safe from the other puppies at playtime. At first this is good for one or two days and you can throw them away after their use and make new ones. They usually sell this by the yard and it is reasonable, safe and clean. I am telling you this not knowing what sort of apparatus is on the ears at this point in time. Usually the cropper uses cups to tape or glue the newly cropped ears to with the cut edges exposed for cleaning.

I hope that this is help to you in time.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Lorna:

It sounds like you have a great set up for the puppies. You really don't need to do much more. Some people separate their puppies after cropping but I never have. They tend to let the other puppies know when they are getting hurt and you usually won't have too many issues. You can also take a man's cotton sock, cut it up the anklet portion on two side to make a strap, pull the foot part over the head if you have cups on and then tie the straps around the chin.

Q: from K. Andis

Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2005
Time: 7:32 PM

Comments: Doberman Health

Yes, I have a nine month old female Doberman (black&tan), and she has a bad problem with dandruff. I read in your answers that if may just be the winter or is there anything I am doing wrong, or can it be treated?

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Colder weather can cause dry skin and flaking. One of the most common problems I've found with dandruff is the way a dog is bathed and how often they are bathed. Dobermans do not need to bathed as frequently as longer coated breeds. If you do bath your dog, be sure to use a good pet shampoo product and don't apply the shampoo directly to the back of the coat. Put the shampoo in your hands first and rub into the coat, always rubbing WITH the coat, never against it. The same after you rinse thoroughly, towel dry again with the coat, never against it. There are a lot of supplements, oils and such that you can add to the diet to help improve skin moisture as well. I think you might find several articles regarding these diet supplements, etc. on our web site in the article menu. Please go to http://www.dpca-breedered.com/article_menu.htm and read articles on grooming, diet, etc.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

It may indeed be the winter. Her skin is just dry. I would not bathe her nor brush her. Don't let her lay by registers or heaters. You can give her more Vitamin E in her food and make sure her food has Omaga 3 & 6. This will help. Other than that it should clear up when the weather breaks.

Now, having said that, you also must make sure she doesn't have any Demodex. This is a mite that can be found in scrapings done by your vet. This will cause dandruff and dull coat as well as small pustules and possibly hair missing in spots.

Q: from Maryann Montana
Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2005
Time: 8:09 AM

Comments: Doberman Temperament

I have 2 Yorkies and was wondering how compatible a Doberman would be with them.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Maryann,
I just answered a similar question to this and I can pretty much offer you the same advice with your question. Your Doberman should be able to come into your home and live with you 2 Yorkie's in harmony. However, it is up to you to have this happen. You will have to raise your Doberman puppy up to respect that the Yorkies are smaller dogs and not allow your Doberman to play rough from the very start. I have a saying that is "whatever you don't want your 90 pound Doberman to do , don't allow it to do whatever when he/she only weigh a few pounds." This works the other way around too for the Yorkies too. If they are out of hand you will need to correct them too.

First, don't allow them to be on their own unattended by you. This is to assure that they puppy doesn't get so rough that the adult Yorkies get mad and decide to beat the pup into submission in a one-way dog fight. This will frighten the puppy and the puppy could very well grow up to be dog aggressive and later not be friends with the Yorkies. Teach the dogs to respect one another right from the start. Don't let the puppy bite and roll the Yorkies in a way that it is hurting them and making them yelp. Tell the Doberman pup; "NO! No-bite" and hold him/her away from the Yorkie until he calms down. If the Yorkies show dominance by excessive deep growling and stiff leg walking around the puppy with it head over the puppy's shoulders, put a stop to that too.

You just have to use good sense like that you would use when dealing with children. Dogs like children will lash out when they feel pain during play. Be ready to jump in and smooth things out and then let them resume play in the nice way that you desire. You are the leader, the boss of the pack. This is the important thing for you to always remember, you are the leader.

I hope that this is a start in helping you. Feel free to ask more questions as time goes on.

I have wirehaired Dachshunds, Dobermans and cats and they get along. Again, I do not leave them alone all together when I leave. When I am not there anything can happen and the dogs will handle it like dogs do.

Here is an article to help you:
Dominance

Another suggestion for you if you should decide to get a Doberman to be a part of your family. Take the Yorkies with you when go to pick up your puppy. Introduce them away from your home (the Yorkie's home, in their mind). Have the Yorkies and the new puppy on lead and allow them to greet each other and say hello and walk around together. Praise good behavior and tail wagging and discourage dominance behavior.

I thought that we had an article up on our pages about introducing young puppies to older dogs, but I can't find it. I will keep looking and add an article to our pages.

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A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

That would mainly be up to you. You have to raise your puppy right. I have 2 Minpins and have had Pomeranians in the past. Many Dobe owners have cats or Whippets or some other smaller breed with great success. Marj has Dachshunds and I am sure does the same as I do. As I said though, it would be up to you as to how you raise them, what they are allowed to do with the Yorkies, etc.

My 5 month old Minpin is harder on my 8 month old Dobe puppy than the other way around but they play very well together and are practically inseparable. I never allowed the Dobe to use the Minpin as a puntable because from the time she was a tiny puppy, I was well aware that she will someday be 70 pounds.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

The Yorkies and Dobe can live harmoniously but PLEASE don't let the Yorkies beat up the Dobe puppy. I'm not kidding. Small breeds are BOSS! LOL.

Q: from Will Davis
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2005
Time: 3:35 PM

Comments: Feeding the Doberman

I feed my 3-month male Dobe 3 cups of food twice a day. should I be feeding him more?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

I agree with Darlene that you should be feeding his puppy three times a day and include raw fresh hamburger in the diet and yogurt too.

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A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Kennels, Canada

Hello Will

A good rule of thumb is about 2 cups twice daily and from that you need to assess how he looks - what he weighs, and most of all - check with your vet or a breeder or handler in your area to ask them to look at him and tell you if he is overweight or not. If he is too thin and does in fact need more, then I would add a meal of 1 cup at lunchtime rather than load him up with more at each of his two meals.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Will:

I usually am still feeding a puppy three times a day at this age and I don't think 3 cups in one meal is a good process. A dog can only digest so much food at once. Try breaking the meals in to three meals at 1 1/2 cups to 2 cups each meal and see how that works. There are lots of articles on this website on rearing, raising puppies and how to feed. Check this link out http://www.dpca-breedered.com/article_menu.htm and see what you can find on raising a new puppy.

Q: from Will Davis
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2005
Time: 3:32 PM

Comments: Doberman Conformation/Handling

I have a 3-month old Dobe. He seems to be rough in his play with other puppies or smaller dogs especially my friend's toy poodle. Should I be correcting his play?

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

HE'S A BABY!!! A Dobe puppy should not be allowed to play with smaller dogs. They are much bigger and don't know their own strength. No, you should not correct him as he wouldn't know what he was being corrected for. Consider a 10 yrs old boy playing football with a 6 mo. old baby.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Will:

I think that dogs/puppies need to work through their hierarchy and dominance. You should let the other dogs tell him when he's crossed the line but keep a close eye on what's going on. You don't want him to be hurt but they can tell him better than you can.

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A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Will,
Yes, you should control the rough play with the toy Poodle. Your pup should not be allowed to maul his playmate. You may find that this particular dog not be the best playmate for your puppy, but if you should allow this, then teach your puppy to respect the other dog. If he is just plain too rough and the other dog cannot take it and is appearing to be in stress, stop the play altogether. Give him a command, like "easy-play nice", "not so rough" and physically pull your pup away giving the command. Don't let him lord it over his playmate. Actually at 3 months your puppy has most likely outgrown this toy Poodle and there may be no-way to keep the hurtful play under control.

If this is the case, have them play gently on lead and bare in mind that this may not work either. Just use good judgment and remember that your Doberman puppy should learn to respect other dogs and be a good citizen.
I hope that this give you a guideline for raising your puppy up to be respectful to other dogs.

This works the other way around too, with older dogs playing with your puppy. Don't allow the older dogs or bigger puppies lord it over your puppy either. This could result in your puppy becoming fearful of other dogs and becoming dog aggressive. You don't want that either. Dog parks can be a good thing if everybody keeps their dogs under control and not allow them to run the show. One of the negatives about dog parks are the people who let their dogs run wild and do not use the opportunity to train their puppies and dogs to be good citizens around other dogs and people.

Q: from Julianne Haugen
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2005
Time: 9:26 AM

Comments: Breeding the Doberman

Hello, I have two 31/2 year old littermates (male and female). Both have recently been tentatively diagnosed with Chronic active hepatitis (pending liver biopsy). The females ALT liver enzymes are higher than the male, hers are 4 times normal value, his are just slightly above normal. This disorder was discovered only through routine yearly blood work.

We have treated them with round of antibiotics, bile acid test (negative) and a round of Panacur. Our next step is to biopsy the female.

We currently have changed their diet to Hill's prescription L/D and removed as much protein from their diet as possible.

I was wondering if anyone has had any other treatment plan suggestions/thoughts.

All testing has been done through our regular Vet and I will be seeing an Internal Medicine specialist soon.

I realize the long term prognosis is poor but would appreciate any info you and your readers may have concerning the progression/treatment of this awful disease. Currently both dogs are look/act in perfect health.

Thanks.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Julianne,

I hope that Darlene answers this question for you. Years ago she had one of her dogs diagnosed with CAH (Chronic Active Hepatitis) and she kept it under control with diet. Her dog lived a very long and a good life after her diagnosis.

There are some books out there that can give you some info on diets to feed too. One of these books is Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide To Natural Health for Dogs and Cats by Richard H. Pitcairn DVM., Ph.D and Susan Hubble Pitcairn. I am sure that you can create a very good diet that you can do yourself that will be good for your two Doberman dogs.

I am sure that Darlene will answer this for you too as well as the others.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Julianne:

It sounds as though you are on the right track. I have had some experience with this disease and here's what we did for my bitch, who lived 6 years past diagnosis.

First I cooked her food and it was the Hills Diet but home cooked version. She was on long term antibiotics and she was also on a copper reducing drug as well. Sometimes vets will recommend a steroid as well but usually not unless they are in advanced stages of the disease. My bitch never went on steroids. I cooked her meals for over two years and then slowly moved her over to a kibble that was low in copper, which at that time was Nature's Recipe but there are several other brands on the market today. Some people have had good luck with raw diet and liver disease cases.

If you are interested in an article I wrote on CAH and my bitch, please email me privately and I will send it to you.
(darwindobe@aol.com)

Q: from Erica
Date: Monday, January 24, 2005
Time: 6:37 PM

Comments: Doberman Health

Hello, I have a 5 yr old Dobie. My question is he loves to lick other dogs ears. He is dominate to the other dog and won't let another dog lick his but will lick any other dogs ears. Will this cause ear infections for the other dog? Thank you Erica

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Erica,

Not to worry. I don't think that your dog can cause an infection to the other dog by licking its ears. It would be a unusual kind of a situation if an infection did occur.

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A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Kennels, Canada

Hi Erica

No the other dog will not get ear infections from having his ears licked. What may happen though is if you continue to allow the Doberman to do this, the other dog is going to become annoyed eventually and may consider taking his face off. You need to teach this 5 yr old to leave the other dogs ears alone. One way to stop it or to lessen his desire to clean the other dogs ears is for you to clean all the ears so they don't smell. It is the smell that is attracting him to do this. He is obviously trying to give you a message that the ears need to be cleaned . Get some 4 % Hibitane or also called Chlorhexidine and dilute it in warm water to clean all the ears out. It will kill the bacteria and will also get rid of the smell.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

No, but he may lose his own ears if the other dog decides he's had enough!

Q: from Brian Gage
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2005
Time: 10:26 AM

Comments: Dandruff

My 7 year old Dobe Tailspin is the best dog I've ever had the pleasure of being with. She does, however, have severe dandruff at this time of the season when it's cold outside and dry inside. Bathing her more regularly than every 2 weeks gives her dry skin, which only makes the problem worse. Any ideas on how I can cure her dandruff issues?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Have you tried mixing the following together in a spray bottle and applying it daily to the dog's coat:

1/3 Listerine Mouthwash (Original or Mint) (thus kills any bacteria)
1/3 Alpha Keri (original, not the aftermarket brands) (puts the keratin back in the skin)
1/3 water (dilutes the mixture)

Also, when using this mixture do not bath frequently as it will not be necessary.

I would also like to know what you have been feeding her and if she is indoors or outdoors?

REPLY from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada:

That food is loaded with corn as a filler Brian and may be *part* of your problem...heck WE can't even digest corn...think about it. Try something different but do it gradually and use the spritz recipe that I gave you...you should see a difference I hope.

REPLY from Brian Gage

Judy,
She is an indoor dog, and I feed her 1 1/2 cups of Purina Beneful twice a day.

Q: from Victor G. Figueroa

Date: Friday, January 21, 2005
Time: 6:34 PM

Comments: Buying a Doberman

I'm interested in buying a Doberman in a few years. At the moment I'm getting inform on my choices and responsibilities as a potential future owner of a Doberman. I'm looking for a mentor in the Albuquerque, New Mexico area. Also, I would like to know if there are any DPCA sponsor clubs in Albuquerque.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Mr. Figeroa,

There are 2 members of the DPCA living in Alberqueque that are listed in the membership booklet. Marcie Jensen: MarcieMJensen@aol.com and Marilyn Feeney: feeney@unm.edu. I do not know these ladies but I'm sure they can help you.

You are doing the right thing and learn as much as you can about our breed. Please go to the Articles on this web site as you will learn a great deal. Also, please go to the DPCA site for additional articles as well.

Q: from D.P. Smith

Date: Thursday, January 20, 2005
Time: 9:30 PM

Comments: Importing

How do you go about importing a Dobe from Europe? Is there a company that I can contact?
thank you for your help.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello DP Smith,

If there is a company for importing European Dobermans, I am not aware of them. There are plenty of American breeders that have imported European stock and are breeding from the European bloodlines. You can do a google search for Dobermann Pinschers and plenty of European web-sites should appear.

I have to say though, that I wouldn't recommend buying a Doberman Pinscher over the internet. I think that you should buy from a breeder where you can see their dogs, their facility and things like that. All breeding stock

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I really can't tell you since I've not imported any dogs. I'd go to the AKC site and find out some thing on Registering imported dogs and possibly they might have some sites to go to. I would think it would be fairly easy. You'd have to go to the Dept. of Agriculture for a permit. Have a Vet in that country give a health certificate and any other permits they require. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

Q: from Bob

Date: Tuesday, January 18, 2005
Time: 2:34 PM

Comments: Excessive Dander

My 2.5 year old red female Doberman has excessive dander/dandruff especially during winter months. I have tried everything: humidifiers, different foods, brushing/not-brushing, supplements (fish Oil/Vitamin C, E), special bath shampoos etc. but nothing ever seems to work past a day at most...the dander just seems to stay a constant dusty. Is there anything else I possibly could be missing? Otherwise she is in excellent health/shape. Any suggestions?

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Hello Bob,

Have you tried mixing the following together in a spray bottle and applying it daily to the dog's coat:

1/3 Listerine Mouthwash (Original or Mint) (thus kills any bacteria)
1/3 Alpha Keri (original, not the aftermarket brands) (puts the keratin back in the skin)
1/3 water (dilutes the mixture)

Also, when using this mixture do not bath frequently as it will not be necessary.

I would also like to know what you have been feeding her and if she is indoors or outdoors?

REPLY from Bob:

Judy, Thanks very much for the info - I will try this solution. I feed her 4 cups per day of Eagle Pack Holistic Select. I tried other foods but she seems to do best on Eagle. What do you suggest I try on food? She is mainly indoors. I will also give the sea kelp a try. Re: bathing - I bath her at most once a month.

REPLY from Judy:

The food is the best IMO and fwiw therein lies your problem -- the too frequent bathing.
Use this solution and ONLY bath her if and when she starts to smell doggie. My guys get bathed if they are lucky twice a year. It is also very important to bath her as Darlene recommended.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Bob:

You might want to stop bathing her first of all because that in itself can cause dandruff. I would add sea kelp to her diet, you can get it at any drug store and give her at least one tablet daily. There are other supplements you can add to her food to help with dry skin as well. Also, when you do bath or brush her always brush with the coat not against it. Always bath her with you hands with the coat not against it and never poor the shampoo directly on her back or anywhere. Put it in your hands first and be sure you rinse ALL the shampoo out.

Hope this helps.

Q: from Kori
Date: Monday, January 17, 2005
Time: 8:59 AM

Comments: Doberman Health

I have just begun feeding the raw diet to my 3.5 month old puppy. Can anyone tell me what I should be supplementing with this diet? I am giving him fish oil and flaxseed oil. Any other recommendations would be appreciated!!

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Kori,
I suggest that you get the book, Natural Diet for Dogs and Cats, The Ultimate Diet by Kymythy Schultze. The book will help you immensely with the additives that you should be feeding. The book costs under $10.00 and you can get it at www.bookwise.com or at Borders or Barnes and Noble book stores. You should be feeding Vitamin C and E (400 units 2 times a day) and fish oil to name some that you should get started on now. Build the Vitamin C starting at 500 ml 2 times a day to over 1000 2x a day. The book will guide you. I feed raw and this book helped me get started. There are other books out there and Yahoo has list about the BARF diet that help me too.
You will need to read up on feeding raw and learn to feed the additives and get the diet balanced.
I hope that this helps.

Q: from Lisa

Date: Sunday, January 16, 2005
Time: 6:08 PM

Comments:

How much should a blue Doberman weigh at the age of six months?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Lisa,
I am catching up with the Q&A and I think that your question has been answered. All Dobermans should be the size and carry the bone and the substance and the muscle that is asked for in our Standard of the ideal Doberman that we all should be breeding for. You can see the standard here.
http://www.dpca-breedered.com/DPCABreedStandard.htm

There are articles also that discuss the Standard to help you understand what it is saying and asking for. Search our pages under the heading of conformation to find and read these articles about the ideal conformation and the ideal temperament of the Doberman.

Maybe we can help you better if you can tell us the weight of your puppy. The weight will depend on the size of the bone and the muscle mass.

Thank you for your question.

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A: from Bonnie Dunlop, Botrina Kennels, Canada

Hi Lisa

Your question is a difficult one to answer as every dog is different in so many ways, regardless of the color. It will depend on how much the dog is fed daily; the amount of bone or substance the dog has; how active or sedentary the dog is; whether it is male or female; whether it is actually overweight or whether you can see the outline of the last 3 ribs and can easily feel the last three ribs. Your vet is the best person that can answer that question for you. Without being able to see the dog or put hands on the dog, it is a question that is very difficult to answer.

Q: from Jim N
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2005
Time: 4:50 PM

Comments:

While looking at some Doberman breeders websites I noticed that after the dog's name they list types, type 3, type 4, type 7. What do these numbers mean?

I had 9 pups, definitely all black. What makes me believe the male is a # 4 is (if I understand the color chart right) because he came from a rainbow litter and his mommy is blue so even if he didn't come from a rainbow litter ( which he did) he would still carry the dilution gene by having a blue mother, correct which means he certainly would not be a #1. I just thought it odd to have all blacks, but still a very good litter.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Jim,
These numbers represent the color of the dog and the color type that a dog will produce depending on the color type that the dog is bred to. Here is the Doberman color inherence chart for the Doberman to put this all into prospective for you. http://www.dpca-breedered.com/colorinheritance.htm

I hope that this is helpful to you.

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A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Jim:

What those numbers mean is what that particular dog will produce. It says whether or not they are dominant black, can throw red and black or through other colors. I believe there is a color chart available through the Breeders Ed site or the DPCA web site.

If you check the DPCA Color Chart you'll find that if your male came from a rainbow litter he could carry color or he may not carry color. This chart explains the combinations you will get from a blue parent bred to a red, black, blue or fawn. It all depends on what the other parent was in the breeding that produced the litter of color. Your male could actually be a Black number 1.

*** *** ***

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

These numbers mean what color type their dogs are.

Type 1 is a Black Dominant dog. That means that no matter what color dog/bitch they're bred to, the progeny will be only black and tan.
Type 2 is black dog/bitch that can produce only blacks and blues
Type 3 is a black dog/bitch that can produce blacks and reds, no dilution
Type 4 is a black dog/bitch that can produce all 4 colors
Type 5 is a blue dog that cannot produce fawns
Type 6 is a blue dog/bitch that can produce fawns
Type 7 is a red dog/bitch that cannot produce dilutes
Type 8 is a red dog/bitch that can produce dilutes
Type 9 is a fawn dog/bitch (a double dilution)

There is a color chart on the DPCA web site as well as our Breeders Ed site.

Q: from Rick Parker
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2005
Time: 9:48 AM

Comments: Raven Creek Kennel

Does anyone have knowledge on Raven Creek, located in PA.

A: from Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

None of the breeders here have ever heard of this kennel. Sorry...

REPLY from Rick:

Thanks for the reply. I met with him and viewed two of his dogs that were far from good stock. His answers to so many of my questions made it obvious he isn�t professional.

I passed,

Regards,

Rick

REPLY to Rick by Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada

Good for you...I expected as much when no one had heard of him. Thanks for the update Richard!

Q: from Tiffany
Date: Friday, January 14, 2005
Time: 11:13 AM

Comments: Doberman Conformation/Handling

I have always wanted a Doberman and have been seriously researching the breed for a good six months now. In the process I have fallen in love with the fawn Dobermans. I understand that they require extra care for their coat and skin. I have decided to get a show quality puppy and also want to do obedience. My concern is showing a fawn in the conformation ring. I have been told to look for judges who don't discriminate against the color. Also, does the thinner coat effect the way a diluted dog is judged typically? Can you suggest a way to find judges partial to the dilutes?

Thanks!

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Tiffany,

The fawn Doberman can take more care for the coat and skin. Many fawn and blue Dobermans are subject to Alopecia, a condition as to where they lose their hair. If this does happen, then the fawn Doberman that does not have the proper coat as described in our Standard can be penalized for his/her lack of hair. Here is an article about the fawn and blue Doberman: http://www.seattle-attorney.com/storm/sup.html

A fawn Doberman that closely adheres to the Doberman Pinscher standard does and will win, if the judge feels that the dog is actually the best. The Standard is here: http://www.dpca-breedered.com/DPCABreedStandard.htm When they are lacking hair, they have to be very good in an overall quality to be judged the best on the day. This is what the standard says about the coat, color and markings:

COAT

Smooth-haired, short, hard, thick and close lying. Invisible gray undercoat on neck permissible.

Color and Markings

Allowed Colors: Black, red, blue, and fawn (Isabella). Markings : Rust, sharply defined, appearing above each eye and on muzzle, throat and fore chest, on all legs and feet, and below tail. White patch on chest, not exceeding 1/2 square inch, permissible. Disqualifying Fault : Dogs not of an allowed color.

Judges should not be partial to any of the four allowed colors of the Doberman. They should judge the overall dog according to the Standard of the Doberman Pinscher.

I hope that this helps.

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A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Dear Tiffany,

It is not that unusual to see dilutes in the ring. Some Judges just don't care for them but since they are allowed they should be judged as any dog. However, if the coat is thin it is also condition they are judged on. A young dog should be in good condition re: coat. There is no list of Judges who are partial to any color.

*** *** ***

A: from Darlene Young, Darwin Dobermans, USA

Tiffany:

Fawns can and do often have coat problems. However, many Fawns today seem to have better coats than I've seen in the past. Most judges do not discriminate as they are to judge the breed based on the standard and the standard calls for all four colors. If the dog has a poor coat, whether it's a Fawn or any other color it will be penalized to the degree of the fault or condition.