Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Ear care/taping
A popular method with many people is that which employs a foam rubber “crown” placed between the ears on the top of the puppy’s head, supporting the ears which are taped to it. For this, one needs upholsterer’s foam rubber, some one-inch-wide toupee tape (the sort available to hold men’s hairpieces in place), and cloth tape in both one-inch and one-half-inch widths. Cut the foam into a wedge-shaped piece of a size that will fit on top of the puppy’s head between the ears. The widest side should be slightly rounded to fit in place; the entire wedge should be slightly taller than the puppy’s ears will be when stretched upright. Wrap the foam completely in the toupee tape, which is sticky on both sides with paper covering on one, re-moving the paper covering as you go. The foam should be covered on the sides, across the bottom and over the top. Place the wedge on top of the puppy’s head, pressing carefully to be sure that is securely “anchored” (the toupee tape to the head). You will need an extra pair of hands helping you for this job, as it is important that it be done with care. The ears should be even with one another, up straight, the cut edges being carefully placed. With someone holding the ears firmly in place for you, run a strip of half-inch tape to the in-side of one ear, across the top of the foam where it should adhere firmly to the toupee tape, and down the inside of the other ear. Be sure that you do not pull in on, or shorten, either ear in the process. Then a strip of the one-inch tape should be placed about half-way between the top of the head and the ear tip, from the inside of one ear across the front of the foam and inside the other ear. Whatever method you use, do be sure that the puppy’s ears are not permitted to become overly sore or sensitive. Keep watching to see that all seems to be progressing well, and if this is your first puppy, or your first litter, do seek the opinion of an experienced breeder or your veterinarian if you feel that all is not well.
submitted by Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Ear care/taping
SUPPLIES:
1One puppy (more if you’re lucky)
2Tape: 2 x 6″ (Bases) 2 x 4″ (Middle) 2 x 3″ (Tips) 1 x 24″ (Brace in the form of a figure 8)
31 square Mole foam (NOT MOLESKIN) (Kurotex – Dr. Scholl’s) to make 2 ear moulds appropriate size (cut 1/2″ longer than ears)
4 Solvo-Plast
5 Foam core Rods (Caulking): 2 back taped (make certain they are straight)
6 Cotton Bails and Q-tips
7 Rubbing Alcohol
8 Skin Bond (Surgical Glue) or Liquid Sewing Glue (Sew-Fast or Quick-Sew)
9 Ayerst Eye and Wound Powder
10Scissors
11A ruler and a pen
CAUTION: NEVER leave ears un-taped (even if they appear to be standing properly) without the breeder’s okay, at least until the puppy is done teething. Once teething is completed the ears can be left out of tapes until they droop or wilt. Then they MUST be re-taped AT ONCE.
PROCEDURES:
{jb_reddisc}1{/jb_reddisc} Clean ears with rubbing alcohol (for healed ears) (peroxide for newly cut ears) inside and out. Let dry.
{jb_reddisc}2{/jb_reddisc} Take as many squares of mole foam as needed – 2 pups per square – and prepare as follows: Do all of one step before proceeding to the next (i.e.-cut six squares in 1/2, then do next step on each stay) It goes faster. Note: LEAVE PLASTIC BACKING ON MOLE FOAM UNTIL ALL CUTTING IS DONE. Using the ruler measure halfway – vertically from backing edge to backing edge.
Take the ruler and draw a line DIAGONALLY from corner to corner, leaving a 1/2 inch at the top. Cut following lines. Cut off bottom in a slight arc; this removes the “points,” rounding the portion to go in the bell of the ear. Peel off plastic wrapping on all stays to be used. There is adhesive on the foam but it isn’t sticky enough to stay put. Place an ample amount of surgical glue on the white, sticky side, starting from about 3/4 of an inch up from the bottom. Glue ALL stays to be used and set aside. Now place an ample amount of glue, being sure to completely cover the ear – evenly – starting from the little bump just above the bell. DO NOT LET GO OF EAR. Wait a minute or so, NOT 4 or 5 minutes, being careful not to let the pup shake its head, or you’ll glue the ear to the side of the head. NOW, roll the base of the stay. Be careful not to let the stay stick to the ear before you have positioned it well into the bell (as far down as you would place any other method of posting). Holding the ear in the position you want it to stand, attach the stay – from the bottom up – straightening edges on healed ears. Rub stay to ear to make sure its well adhered.
{jb_reddisc}3{/jb_reddisc} Don’t worry about taking the stays out; they will loosen and fall out by themselves in about two weeks, from the oil in the ears. They are virtually puppy proof but they don’t come out prematurely. There is no problem with infection or goop inside the ear canal because the air can get in freely. Any remaining remnant of tape on ears can be removed with Solvo-Plast. (Use sparingly — try to avoid inside of ear as it will burn the skin quickly)
{jb_reddisc}4{/jb_reddisc} Measure foam core rods to appropriate length for ear — fitting well into the base of ear and all the way to end of tip. Back tape foam core rod starting at top with sticky side in for one wrap to grip, turn tape sticky side out and wrap all the way to bottom keeping rods straight as possible. Run the Q-tip with Solvo-Plast on it down one edge of the back taped foam core rod and insert it into the ear starting at the base getting it as deeply into the ear as you can. Mould the ear around the rod for maximum grip.
{jb_reddisc}5{/jb_reddisc} Apply base tape to the foam rod with the tail of the tape towards the nose and wrap around from front to back. DO NOT WRAP TOO TIGHTLY. Make certain to put base tape as low as possible and lift ear up (ALWAYS pull ear leather up tightly when wrapping to prevent taping a kink in the ear) as far as it will comfortably go.
{jb_reddisc}6{/jb_reddisc} Apply tip tapes the same way. ALWAYS apply middle tape last before letting go of tightly pulled ear.
{jb_reddisc}7{/jb_reddisc} Apply brace, starting over the top of the base tape, following the same front to back method crossing the crown of the head and around the ears. Hold both ears upright during this application to get maximum benefit. The ears should not be pulled into the center when completed, but should be in a natural upright position. Also be careful not to twist the ear on the head.
NOTE: When taping the ears be gentle but firm and confident. If you’re concerned about the puppy being in pain because he/she cries out even before you touch the ears, just watch he/she play alone or with another puppy. They seem to forget they have anything on their ears. By being firm when you work on the ears you will give you puppy reassurance. Don’t be cross, just firm, gentle and sure of yourself. When the puppy is especially good you can reward him/her.
HELPFUL HINTS: Your puppy may arrive with its ears taped to a Styrofoam cup. NEVER remove this cup until it loosens enough to pull on either one or both ears or falls off on its own. The tape may curl but as long as it is holding leave it alone, at least until the cut edge of the ear is fully healed. Then it may be removed and the taping procedure may begin.
{jb_browndisc}1{/jb_browndisc} Always remove tape in the direction of hair growth to eliminate unnecessary hair loss. If there are any sore spots upon removal of tape sprinkle lightly with Eye and Wound Powder.
{jb_browndisc}2{/jb_browndisc} It the ears tend to pull together at top of head they probably have pockets or cups. When re-taping pack the pockets with cotton. If the ears are breaking or flat down (see illustration) which they shouldn’t ever be you MUST re-tape.
NOTE: If you have allowed this to happen you have set yourself and your puppy back by at least 2 weeks and have extended the taping procedure by the same amount or more!!!
{jb_browndisc}3{/jb_browndisc} To remove the tapes cut each piece from the base to the tip starting on the inside of the ear between the tape and the foam. Cut tape on both ears before pulling the tape off one ear. There’s no painless way to remove the tape but it is easier on the puppy to do it as quickly as possible. After cutting tape put one hand on puppy’s head and pull the tape off in one piece as quickly as possible. Repeat process with other ear. ALWAYS clean the ears thoroughly inside and out, letting them dry completely before re-taping.
{jb_browndisc}4{/jb_browndisc} Sometimes ears are covered with a pus-like fluid (caused by the hair decaying under the tape). Nothing to be concerned about. Clean and dry.
{jb_browndisc}5{/jb_browndisc} If the tapes get wet PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THEY WILL SHRINK — thus cutting off circulation and in extreme cases the tip of the ear can fall off. The tapes MUST be changed immediately.
{jb_browndisc}6{/jb_browndisc} This method has lasted up to 14 days, when the natural secretions of the ear usually cause the Mole foam to come away from the ear, and they must then be taken out. While very fresh, in the first couple of days, the glues are quite strong, and removal is difficult and painful.
{jb_browndisc}7{/jb_browndisc} General rule of thumb for when to tape is: when the ears are down or wilted looking, put them up in tapes and leave them until the tapes come off. This is a relatively short time in a puppy’s life, and the more relaxed approach will convince the puppy that this is no big deal and reduce stress on e
verybody.
submitted courtesy of Judy Bohnert, Equinox, Canada
Or you can cut a length of the foam longer than you need (to be to the tip of the ear when you’re finished taping to the dog). Get out your trusty roll of DUCT TAPE (silver, plastic tape) and cut a piece of it a bit longer than the foam. Lay the foam at the long edge of the tape (uncut) and “roll” the foam up in the tape. (Sometimes, if you can only find the 1/4″ wide foam, you can put two pieces together to get the width you need – and roll them tightly in the DUCT TAPE. Trim the bottom edge of the foam (the part you will insert in the puppy’s ear).
Now get out your adhesive tape and “back wrap” it around the foam (which is already wrapped in DUCT TAPE. You can start at the top or bottom – makes no never mind. Start in the normal direction as if you were taping something up and then fold the tape backwards so that you’ve now got the sticky side OUT and go all the way down the piece of duct-taped foam.
Put lots of anti-fungal and/or anti-bacterial powder in puppy ear. Insert the back-wrapped creation deep in puppy’s ear – and begin the taping process. Sometimes, you can cut and shape the bottom part of the creation, so it fits snugly in the ear (something like sharpening a pencil). Tape to the top of the ear.
When finished, cut off the excess at the top of the ear, to just slightly above the tip of the ear. Put a “loose” brace at the base of the ears between the two.
Some people double wrap the foam in DUCT TAPE (see Step 1) for extra strength.
submitted courtesy of Cheri McNealy, USA
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Ear care/taping
If you have access to a source for Skin Bond ask them about a product made by the same manufacturer that is called Skin Prep. It is a small pad, individually wrapped in a foil packet with twenty-five packets to a box. Use one pad to do both ears. It applies as a liquid but quickly dries to an invisible protective coating on the skin inside the ear. Go way down into the ear base. Allow to dry for one minute and then apply the Skin Prep and the ear peg of your personal choice. Apply Neo-Predef powder to the backside (hair side) of the ears, making sure to cover the pocket near the base. Now use a roll of gauze to wrap the entire ear, if your puppy has allergies to tape, from the base to almost the tip. Then apply overlapping strips of tape. If you still have reaction problems to the ear tape, use vet wrap instead of tape to cover the gauze completely. Make sure you catch a small bit of skin and hair near the base and at the tip so the gauze doesn’t go flying when the pup shakes it’s head. With this method you will never have any of those nasty oozing tape reactions or blisters in the bases of the ears or anywhere else on the ears again.
submitted courtesy of Noreen DePalma, USA
With all the talk about taping ears—I thought I’d pass along the method I use to roll the ears. After reading about the duct tape around the caulking and the tampon method, I feel that perhaps this method may help some that are having problems with the other methods.
For newly cropped puppies take a sheet of Bounty paper towel (Bounty because it is thicker and absorbent). Fold the sheet into quarters and then take the square of paper towel and on a table begin to TIGHTLY roll the paper towel into a tube. Then take the tape (I use a silky cloth tape by 3M called Durapore in one inch size which is quite sticky) and secure the roll about one inch from the bottom of the tube of paper. Tape it around, then flip the roll around and keeping the roll tight and the tape pulled taut, work up the roll, tape side out, to the top, then down again. Usually taping the roll up and then down the tube will be enough to stiffen the tube.
Then I use a product called Skin Bond by Smith & Nephew (1-800-876-1261) which is a natural rubber adhesive used for “stomas” from colostomy’s and illiostomy’s. It is a white glue that you will thinly brush on the inside of the ear. Blow on the glue to dry it slightly and thus make it tacky, then insert the taped tube into the ear with the one inch of exposed paper towel, to act like a “wick” end, as far as possible into the ear canal. Then squeeze the ear around the tube to make sure the ear/glue is in good contact. After that, proceed to take your strips of tape, starting at the base and proceed to tape according to Carol Petruzzo’s method on the pages: Part 1 and Part 2
The use of the glue prevents the puppy from popping the tubes out of the bottom of the ears. On older puppies use one and one/half paper towels rolled into a tube. It is simply a thicker tube for the larger ear. The glue can be used with tampons and the tubing but the paper towel (Bounty) does a great job with the ears and does it cheaply. Give it a try.
Theresa Mullen, Terrylane, USA
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Ear care/taping
EQUIPMENT NEEDED:
Good quality adhesive tape, scissors, Popsicle sticks, cotton balls, rubbing alcohol and patience. An extra pair of hands can also be very useful.
Make sure the ear that is to be taped is clean and dry, rubbing alcohol wiped in the shell of the ear with a cotton ball will work well. Start by measuring the Popsicle stick to the ear, from the bump inside the ear to the tip. Trim the Popsicle stick to the right length. Cut 2 strips of tape for each Popsicle stick to be used, a little longer than the stick. Affix these strips of tape to the sticks in the following manner. Place the stick onto the sticky side in the center of one piece of tape, then place the other piece of tape on top of both with the sticky side facing out.
This is very important as this sticky side affixes to the ear. Cut two more pieces of tape for each ear, one to go around the bottom — approximately 7 – 8 inches long, and another to go around the top — approximately 1″ long. Use full width. Take one of your tape covered sticks and prepare to affix to the ear. It is most helpful at this point to have someone holding the pup!
To affix the stick to the ear begin at the bottom putting the rounded end just above and sitting on the bump in the ear, hold the stick at an angle away from the head of the pup and stretch the ear up to the stick. This is also important as it tightly stretches the ear and helps eliminate `sinks.’
Holding the stick to the ear, wrap your piece of tape around the ear at the base, starting at the front and going around between the ears. This is a procedure called circle taping in which you put the strip of tape below the crease in the dog’s ear, right where they fold back. Take care not to release the upward stretch on the ear as you reach for the next piece of tape. Then the tape has to be pleated to form fit the ear. Do the same at the top of the ear with the full width piece of tape. To prevent the tips of the ears from curling secure the ear tips to the tape-covered sticks.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO WRAP THE TAPE TOO TIGHTLY AS YOU COULD CUT OFF CIRCULATION TO THE EAR!
When both ears are up you now need to cut a longer piece of tape to go around the whole thing. A piece approximately 10 -12″ will do. Starting at the front of the left ear at the bottom (stretch ear upwards) take the tape across the front of the head to the right ear (stretch ear up) and affix to the bottom front of this ear, always parallel to each other. Continue around the ear to the back where you will join the tape to the piece you just placed across the front, all the way across until you are back where you started. Once in place, lift this bridge and stick the two cross bars together, so that they will not stick to the top of the pup’s head. Be sure that the tape is not too high on the ear or the ears may begin to tilt inward.
Keep the tapes on as long as you can, it is important that the ears do not tilt towards each other but do remain in a parallel position. In fact it is better that they tilt a little apart at the top. Keep the tapes straight and in good repair. Remove them by cutting through all the layers, loosening the tapes on the tips, and briskly taking the sticks off. Repeat the entire procedure as often as necessary. Always put the ears back up immediately. Remember that for every day the ears are left to flop you have 2 extra weeks of taping ahead of you. GOOD LUCK!
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Ear care/taping
Now that you have your new puppy, it is important you take proper care of the ears. Proper taping will ensure your puppy less stress and beautiful ears. It takes patience and persistence for success. Post your ears and leave them up six days, then take down and leave down for a few hours but remember, NEVER overnight. Re-tape and leave them up again for six days, then take down. When the ears stand, you can leave them down until they start to drop, then re-post as before and leave them another six days. Smell the ears regularly for scent of infection. NEVER post infected ears. Ear Taping the Doberman Pinscher You will need:
- 1 Doberman whose ears don’t want to stand
- 2 Tampax (original or slender) for the posts (You can use paper towels rolled tightly)
- Cotton Balls (large size preferred)
- Cloth Tape (One inch width best)
- Scissors
- Alcohol (the rubbing kind, not the drinking kind)
- A helper … always appreciated, definitely utilized
1:
EAR PREPARATION
Clean the inside and outside of your Doberman’s ears well with the alcohol. This is an extremely important step. A clean ear is far less likely to get infected and the alcohol removes the oil from the skin and makes the tape stick better. (NEVER, EVER USE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE … it leaves the ears wet and infection can occur.) Clean the ears first so that when you get ready to post them the ears are good and dry.
2:
MAKING THE POSTS
Tampax make perfect posts for Doberman pups as do Popsicle sticks tongue depressors or foam core. Cut two short pieces of tape, about 1-1/2 inches in length, and put to the side within easy reach. Take one of those pieces and tape across the top of the Tampon (the hollow end). This prevents the inner material from flying out when the puppy shakes his head (and embarrassing you in front of guests). Leave the paper on; It isn’t necessary to remove the paper wrapping.
Unroll a large length of tape from the roll (you don’t need to cut it) and place it sticky side out at the top of the post, angled slightly downward. Take your other short piece of tape and secure the long tape to the post. Wrap in a spiral action (like a barber’s pole) all the way down the post, overlapping each layer a little to insure the post is completely covered, sticky-side out. Cut length off at the bottom to fit the post. Take a cotton ball (cut in half if you use large ones … as I prefer) and pad the bottom of the post. Repeat with post # 2.
3:
POSTING THE EARS
Pre-cut several strips of tape. Cut two approximately 3 inches long and two more approximately 5 inches long. Tack them on the edge of the table so they’ll be handy. Note the structure of the ear. See where it attaches at the top of the head? Notice the ear folds back a little in a natural fold. That is an important crease. It gives support to the ear. When you tape you need to be sure you tape this fold in place. Many try and wrap the ear forward to eliminate this fold. That is a mistake and will inhibit the progress of the ear standing. Hold the ear taut and taking care not to stick the ear to the post, place the post deep in the ‘pocket’ of the ear.
Holding the ear against the post to prevent it slipping, wrap one of the shorter pieces of tape around the top of the ear and post. DO NOT WRAP TOO TIGHTLY. It really isn’t necessary to be tight, and doing so will cut off the blood circulation to the tip of the ear and that is BAD NEWS.
Next grab one of the longer pieces of tape and place just above where the post disappears into the ear and wrap back over the top of the head … that is toward the center, around behind the ear and back toward the front. Make sure the ear crease is maintained and make sure the tape is not so tight as to impair circulation. Repeat the process with the other ear.
4:
BRACING THE POSTED EARS
You’ll need to prepare a brace to `stabilize´ the posted ears. This is a must particularly on very active puppies. This is a step you can do beforehand, if you wish. If not, get someone to hold the puppy and restrain him from attempting to undo your handiwork while you make the brace.
Estimate the distance between the puppy’s erect ears. Cut a long piece of tape, approximately 10 or 12 inches long.
About center, you’ll want the Supporting brace that goes between the ears. Cut the tape half way at the points you deem are the outside edges of the support brace. Next trim away the top part of either side: Now fold the middle in half, sticky-side to sticky-side, to form a double thickness of tape … that makes the middle support brace.
Next trim away the top part of either side:
Now fold the middle in half, sticky side to sticky side, to form a double thickness of tape … that makes the middle support brace.
Now you have a strip of tape that is sticky on the end pieces and non-sticky in the middle.
Place the edge of the center brace about even with the center of the inside of the posted ear and wrap the brace tape around the post along the same path as the post’s bottom piece of tape, and secure as tape length requires to the brace. Repeat with the other ear. Now take a couple of small strips from the pieces you cut off of the brace tape and wrap around the brace close to the ear to prevent the brace from pulling away from the posted ear … repeat on other side.
Take talcum powder, BFI or Ayerst Eye & Wound Powder and lightly dust the exposed sticky post to prevent dirt, twigs and stuff from adhering to the post. You’re done!
