Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training
Question from Michelle Santana, Foxfire Dobermans
Hi Ray,
I hope this post isn’t too tedious for you but I think there are a lot of beginners and oldies too, who are maybe taking their first dog thru the WAE, that are on this list who are just beginning to grasp what you guys and gals are trying to convey to us with your posts about utilizing tests/observations to make better breeding decisions. I hope I can convey what I’m asking you about on this ‘flat’ surface, so here goes…
You both have spoken about the WAE and what it means to breeders and owners in its use as a “Tool” in evaluating their dogs’ temperaments in a basic way. By no means do you indicate that a breeder or owner stop there but lets face it, most breeders and owners aren’t going to flock to the Schutzhund field or to the Utility ring to further test their Doberman. So, focusing on breeders and owners utilizing the WAE as a way to make better breeding choices temperamentally, as they pertain to the dog they submit to the test makes me wonder how the test information is to be assimilated by the average Joe Blow breeder.
For example, when we submit our Doberman to the vWd test, the results come back with ‘breed your Clear to ABC, breed your Carrier to EF, breed your Affected to Y’.
When we go through the WAE we don’t get a little booklet telling us what ,specifically, to do with the information we are handed on the score sheet. (hint, hint) For instance, although I don’t have a test sheet in front of me so I’m pulling obstacles randomly out of memory … the WAE starts out with the:
friendly and neutral strangers. What should this tell an owner about their dog? Then there is the shaking can and umbrella. What should this tell an owner about their dog? The can and strange surfaces and gun shot? What does this tell the owner about their dog? And finally comes the aggressive stranger. Pass or fail, what does this tell the owner about their dog?
Upon scoring completion of the WAE test, how should the information given be utilized in making a breeding decision? If a dog fails a particular obstacle what does that mean in terms of selecting a better breeding mate? i.e: only breed to a dog that passes this obstacle?
If a dog fails several obstacles of the WAE, how does a breeder decide which obstacle’s reaction/failure is more important to focus on when making a breeding decision for that particular dog. Let’s say a breeding companion is not available to strengthen everything required and you as the breeder had to make a choice … how does a breeder pick what weakness to strengthen? (i.e. : a dog fails the can/gunshot and the aggressive stranger. Should the breeder focus on finding a breeding companion that helps strengthen the can/gunshot reaction or a breeding partner that helps strengthen the protective/courage/drive reaction?
I sure hope this makes sense to you.
Answer from Ray Carlisle, Cara
Hi Michelle,
Yes, your questions make a lot of sense and need to be very carefully answered! For most, it is much harder to understand mentality than it is to understand structure. A dog’s reactions or responses to various stimuli give the educated eye a good idea at the genetic make up of the dog. HOWEVER, it is impossible to know, what, if any, the effect training or the environment has had on the reaction. When a dog has been trained to react to the stimuli rather than have a natural reaction, the difference can be extreme. Training is not genetics! A trained dog reacts much different from an untrained dog. A breeder can see and discuss the AKC Standard of the breed and compare it to what they see in their dog with some guidance from the experienced breeder. This is not the same when speaking of mentality and reactions to stimuli. This requires years of experience and the average person is not going to have the interest much less the expertise!
Regarding your basic questions: How would a breeder take the results of a WAE and use it in the whelping box? Let’s start with some basics! The WAE is divided into 2 basic behavior categories, “Approach” and “Avoidance.” Reactions to the stimuli are scored according to the response from a +3 to a – -3. The + 3 being a strong approach reaction and -3 being a panic avoidance reaction! In general a good breeder, when selecting breeding partners, would never double up on an “avoidance” reaction, but rather would try to double up on the stronger “approach” reactions. This compares to a good breeder never doubling up on structural faults like breeding 2 long soft back dogs, but, would breed 2 short back dogs with strong top lines. This same logic holds for the other parts of the test with some variation! When a breeder is faced with the decision of what is more important the question must be asked! What is the purpose of my breeding? If the breeder is breeding for a more confident stable dog, they sure would not want to breed to anything that was not a +2 or +3 score on the “Threat,” especially on the approach and confrontation part. Then it is equally important to have a
stable dog that can calm down and return to a “Normal” state after the stimuli. A stable dog will not have a problem regaining a calm, confident, attitude after the stimuli but a nervous unstable dog will! If a dog fails SEVERAL parts of the WAE, IMO, it should not be bred. But, if it fails one part and it is a part that my male or female has scored a +2 or +3 and I really need other things this dog has to offer then I might take the chance depending on what I have seen produced in other litters. We don’t need to go into a deep discussion of mentality and evaluating the good and bad reactions to things but, I hope people understand the “WAE” can give us a lot of basic breeding information. Those who really care about preserving and protecting our breed and don’t have time or the interest to do more advanced testing will put there dogs through the WAE test. I really hope every one of you will do your best to help improve our breed and test your dogs! The future depends on it!
Question from Michelle Santana, Foxfire
HI again Ray,
Thank You very much for your candid answers this is really a great thread! I have one more question if you don’t mind. You wrote: HOWEVER, it is impossible to know, what, if any, the effect training or the environment has had on the reaction. When a dog has been trained to react to the stimuli rather than have a natural reaction the difference can be extreme. This is a very key difference as you state.
I’m wondering, if you are a Breeder with a bitch, and in fact, you do want to breed to a Stud that has been through a WAE and scored a particular way on certain stimuli, is it important to know, if the stud owner is candid enough to share, if the stud you are considering went through the WAE ‘honestly with no prior training to the stimuli or is it significant to know that the potential stud went thru the WAE a prior time or two in some cases and failed certain stimuli that you are interested in strengthening and had that he had to be trained to react properly to that stimuli?
The long and short of it is, does it really make a difference In breeding better temperaments if a dog reacted properly from the gut with no training or if the dog reacted properly because of training (i.e; prior training/exposure to ensure a pr
oper reaction (i.e sleeve/threat work prior to testing)
Is it enough to know that if a dog fails, for example, the aggressive stranger stimuli the first time (gut reaction) but was capable of doing some homework and to be resubmitted to the WAE and passed. Should both these situations be considered as a ‘good’ pass, because even though the dog failed the first time, it was capable of being trained to respond properly for the second attempt? Should breeders start asking how many attempts did it take your dog to pass or did you do any training before your first attempt through the WAE?
Thanks for your time Ray, I know you’re a real busy man and it’s very kind of you to share your knowledge with us!!
Answer from Ray Carlisle, Cara Dobermans
Hi Michelle,
Good questions! Breeding a dog requires us to examine both breeding pairs and consider as many aspects of their physical and genetic makeup as possible. The physical components can be seen with the naked eye and compared to our understanding of the standard. We all know that what you see is not always what you get when you breed. This is where understanding of the genetic makeup takes over. Line breeding or doubling on the same genetic structural components is more likely to reproduce similar components versus breeding different or opposite structural components which will result in unpredictable reproduction of these components. When we consider breeding for mentality we need to understand both “Natural” and “Conditioned” components or traits. Living with a dog and knowing it’s makeup is more of an understanding of “Conditioned” responses. We normally do the same things daily and react the same way to things daily, etc. This creates a conditioned response! If we train our dogs we see conditioned responses.
A “natural” response starts with the original “imprinting” of the puppy through normal experiences, usually during the first 8-20 weeks of it’s life. If the owner or breeder properly imprints the puppy to various stimuli, rewards good behavior and responses, and inappropriate behavior is not rewarded nor punished, rather redirected so no imprint occurs, a natural conditioned response develops. This sounds more complicated than it really is, but, everything mentally starts when the dog is a puppy! The genetic makeup of the dog will not change! However, the way we condition our dogs will have a marked effect on their responses to stimuli. If we condition our dogs not to bark at strangers and command them to keep quite most of the time, it is not a “natural” reaction for the dog to bark when a stranger acts weird! However, if the stranger acts in a threatening manner the dog should show a natural protective response, an approach behavior and not an avoidance behavior! Training will not make the unstable dog pass the test! Training may get the dog through parts of the test but when the build up of stress related to the other portions of the tests develops, the unstable dog will break and have an “avoidance” reaction no matter how much training you have done.
The example you gave of the dog that failed the threat, your words “aggressive stranger” portion and followed by the comment that some homework was done and the dog passed the second time. You ask if this is a good pass? In general, Yes! But it also depends on if the first pass was because the dog did not perceive the test as a threat and had no response! Remember the “Threat” part of the test requires a +1 reaction which means it must show “approach” behavior. Training that brings out the approach behavior is fine, but training will not make a “strong approach behavior” if the dog does not have the required confidence to start with. “Flight” is a much stronger response than “Fight” so it requires a dog with self confidence to fight back at a threat rather than run away! I hope this helps!
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training
by Ms. Dany Canino, Copyright 2000
The American Kennel currently approves three levels of obedience. Those levels are Novice – Open – and Utility. (Tracking is also approved but not in conjunction with an all breed show).
At all levels, the dog and handler should act as a team, performing the exercises together in a smooth and happy manner. Any breed of dog that is recognized by the AKC is eligible to compete in obedience. This includes breeds from the Miscellaneous Group plus, any dog that is identifiable as a recognized AKC breed, has no official AKC registration papers; but has obtained an Indefinite Listing Permit (ILP) number. Altered dogs may compete in obedience.
NOVICE A: This class is for dogs that are just starting up the ladder of obedience. The exhibitors in this class may not have titled a dog in obedience and may not co-own a dog with someone that has titled a dog in obedience. No professional handlers or trainers are allowed to exhibit in this class.
NOVICE B: This class offers the same exercises as in Novice A, but is for exhibitors that have either titled a dog before or exhibitors that co-own a dog with someone that has titled a dog before. This is the class that is also used by professional handlers and/or trainers.
The first exercise is the “HEELING ON LEASH AND THE FIGURE EIGHT.” The dog and handler walk along together (adhering to the judge´s orders) including making turns, halts, changes of pace (normal-slow-fast). This is followed by the Figure 8 where dog and handler must heel around two people simulating an “8”.
These two exercises demonstrate dog and handler´s ability to work together as a team. Perfect Score: 40 points
STAND FOR EXAMINATION: Handler will leave dog standing on a Stay command. The judge will approach the dog and briefly touch the dog. The handler is then told to return to the dog. The dog should not move nor sit until the handler releases the dog from this exercise.
The exercise demonstrates the dog´s willingness to be approached and briefly handled by a stranger without the handler at the dog´s side. The dog may not show any aggression or timidity. Perfect Score: 30 points
HEEL FREE: The exercises for this are the same as they were on leash (except there is no figure 8).
This exercise demonstrates how the dog will perform as a team with the handler even though there is no leash attached. Perfect Score: 40 points
RECALL: This is the last of the individual exercises. The handler leaves the dog on a sit/stay and goes to the other end of the ring to face the dog. Upon the judge´s order the handler calls the dog. The dog must come “promptly” to sit in front of the handler and when commanded, the dog must return to the “heel” position.
This exercise demonstrates that the dog trusts the handler to hold position until called upon to go to the handler. Perfect Score: 30 points
The perfect sub-total score for these exercises is: 140 points
GROUP EXERCISES: After approximately 10-12 dogs have gone through their individual exercises, they will re-enter the ring for the final test in Novice.
The handlers will leave their dogs on a Sit/Stay and go to the other side of the ring where they will remain for 1 minute before returning to their dogs. A Perfect Score: 30 points
They then command their dogs to a Down/Stay and proceed across the ring for a period 3 minutes before returning to their dogs. Perfect Score: 30 points
Total Perfect Score is 200 points. In order to pass the dog must receive a score of 170 or better and, the dog must have completed at least half of the available points in each exercise. A dog will receive a C.D. (Companion Dog) title by passing the Novice exercises in three shows, under three different judges. Each time a dog gets a qualifying score he has earned “a leg” toward his title. Once he obtains this title he is no longer eligible to compete in Novice. He may now train and compete in Open Obedience.
(Reference: AKC OBEDIENCE REGULATIONS – Chapter 3, pages 26-32)
OPEN A: This class is for dogs that have received their C.D. title, but not their CDX. Obedience judges or persons who have owned, trained, and/or exhibited a dog that has won an O.T.C.H. (Obedience Trial Championship) may not compete in this class. They will compete in Open B.
OPEN B: This class is for dogs that have a C.D. or CDX., and dogs that have a UD. title. They are allowed to continue to compete in this class.
Every exercise is performed “off leash.”
HEEL FREE & FIGURE 8: This exercise is the same as it was in Novice, but off leash.
This demonstrates the total control of dog. Perfect Score: 40 points
DROP ON RECALL: This exercise starts out the same way as it did in the Novice Recall, but when dog is halfway into handler, dog will be commanded to “down”. Dog must drop right away and remain down until handler commands dog to come the rest of the way and sit in front of handler. Handler will then command dog to return to “heel” position
This demonstrates the dog´s ability to pay attention to the handler and to work at a distance. Perfect Score: 30 points
RETRIEVE ON THE FLAT: This exercise requires the dog to retrieve a dumbbell that has been thrown at least 20´ away, and then return it to the handler.
Perfect Score: 20 points
RETRIEVE OVER HIGH JUMP: This exercise requires the dog to jump over a hurdle, (that has been measured according to the height of the dog at the withers), retrieve the dumbbell the handler has thrown, return back over the jump and return the dumbbell to the handler. Perfect Score: 30 points
BROAD JUMP: This exercise requires the handler to stand to one side of the jump after having left the dog on a sit/stay at the end of the jump. Upon command from the handler the dog must jump two to four hurdles (depending on the height of the dog), when the dog lands he must go to a sit in front of the handler and on command, do a Finish. Perfect Score: 20 points
SUB TOTAL PERFECT SCORE: 140 points
THE GROUP EXERCISE (Long sit/stay, Long down/stay) is done with the handler “out of sight” of the dog. The respective timing of these exercises is 3 minutes & 5 minutes. Perfect Scores: 30 minutes each
The requirements for a Companion Dog Excellent (CDX.) title is the same as in Novice.
(Reference: AKC OBEDIENCE REGULATIONS – Chapter 4 pages 36-37)
UTILITY: This is the ultimate of the three obedience levels. At this level the dog is required to respond mainly to hand signals from the handler, and to use his sense of smell to distinguish his owner´s scent from a strangers.
THE SIGNAL EXERCISE: This requires the dog to do a Heeling exercise by following hand signals from the handler. This shall include the dog to Stand/Stay, a signalled Down, a signalled Sit, and a signalled Recall. Perfect Score 40 points
SCENT DISCRIMINATION: In this exercise two types of articles are used; leather and metal, with a total of 10 in all. One article of each type is selected by the judge to be handled “ONLY” by the handler. The judge shall place the remaining 8 articles on the ground; handling each article. The handler gives one of the remaining (handler scented) articles to the judge (who must use tongs to handle it) to place among the other articles.
Handler and dog shall turn away from the articles and upon the judge´s command, expose his hand to the dog for scent, and immediately send the dog to retrieve the scented article. The dog must return the scented article to the handler. Perfect Score
30 points
The same procedure is used for the remaining article. Perfect Score 30 points
DIRECTED RETRIEVE: This exercise requires the dog to retrieve one out of three gloves that have been placed in three locations at the end of the ring. The handler shall signal the dog into the direction of the correct glove (the judge chooses which one). Dog is required to retrieve the glove and return it to the handler. Perfect Score 30 points
MOVING STAND FOR EXAM: This exercise requires the dog and handler to “heel” forward, and while in motion, handler shall signal the dog to Stand/Stay as the handler proceeds forward about 10´ and then turns and faces the dog. The judge will approach and examine the dog as in the breed ring (except there will be no exam of teeth and testicles). Handler then commands dog to “heel”. Dog must return to the handler at heel position. Perfect Score 30 points
DIRECTED JUMPING: This exercise requires the dog to go away from the handler at the handler´s command of; “go away”. When the dog is at least 10´ beyond the two jumps, the handler shall command the dog to “sit”. The dog shall turn to face the handler and sit.
The jumps shall consist of a “high jump” and a “bar jump”. After the dog has sat the judge will tell the handler which jump the dog should go over; HIGH OR BAR. When the dog goes over he shall return to the handler as he did in he Novice Recall exercise. This exercise is repeated for the remaining jump. Perfect Score 40 points
Utility competition is often times divided into “A and B”.
(Reference: AKC OBEDIENCE REGULATIONS – Chapter 5, pages 40-47)
Handlers that are competing for an Obedience Trial Championship (OTCH) Title will compete in both Open B and Utility. To find out the requirements for this title see chapter 6, pages 48-50 of the AKC Obedience Regulation Book.
Oftentimes, kennel clubs offer Non-Regular Obedience Classes. You cannot earn an obedience degree in these classes, but you can have fun and practice at the same time. These classes are: GRADUATE NOVICE – BRACE CLASS – VETERAN CLASS – VERSATILITY CLASS – AND TEAM CLASS. Chapter 8 – pages 52-54.
There is another Obedience title not covered in this data. That is the TRACKING DOG (M.D.) TITLE. This competition is usually held at Specialties and not frequently offered otherwise.
To obtain a copy of the AKC OBEDIENCE REGULATION BOOKLET, contact the AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB – 5580 CENTERVIEW DRIVE, SUITE 200
RALEIGH, NC 27606-3390 (Single copies Free. Additional copies $1.00)
To me obedience is the ultimate goal to be achieved, as it is an event that is judged, “not on how pretty your dog looks or moves”, but “how well you and your dog relate to each other as a team.” Obviously each degree, or level of obedience requires a good deal of training time, but you will find that it is time well spent when you see the end results.
“AN OBEDIENCE TRAINED DOG IS THE RESULT OF A CARING, RESPONSIBLE OWNER, AND IS NEVER A NUISANCE TO ANYONE.”
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
by George J. Eigenhauser Jr. (he is an attorney at law licensed in the State of California since 1979 and practices in the areas of civil litigation and estate planning)
ANTI-DOG ENFORCEMENT – What Every Dog Owner Needs to Know
Dog owners and ethical breeders are increasingly being targeted. Disgruntled neighbors may retaliate against dog owners and may other reasons drive complaints, and anti-dog enforcement action, which many times may be conducted illegally.
The following text outlines methods of inquiry and enforcement which may be used by local officials in attempts to enforce ordinances in your community and suggested techniques of response. These techniques are entirely legal and based upon the rights of citizens as stated by the U.S. Constitution.
No breeder wants to have Animal Control come knocking on the door…but if they do, it will help if you know what your options are.
Remember, Animal Control is law enforcement. They are bound by the same Constitution as any other government agency. To protect yourself, you need to know your rights. These vary slightly one jurisdiction to another, but some general principles apply. One rule applies everywhere: never physically resist an officer.
When Animal Control is At Your Door:
1. Do not let them in, no matter how much they ask. Animal Control generally cannot enter your home without a warrant, or your permission. While regular police can enter in emergency situations when human life is at risk (i.e. they hear gunshots and a scream inside), there are few, if any, situations in which Animal Control can enter your home without a warrant. Simply tell them they may not come in.
2. If you let them in, anything they find in “plain sight” can be used against you. In some circumstances Animal Control officers, unable to find a legitimate reason to make an arrest, have reported building or zoning violations. This may include caging you attached to a wall without a building permit, that extra outlet in the puppy room, having more pets than allowed by zoning, even extension cords in violation of fire codes! No matter how clean your kennel, if they want to find a violation, they will.
3. Do not talk to them from an open doorway. Step outside and close (and lock if possible) the door behind you. This is necessary because:
A) Anything they see through the open door is “plain sight” and may be the basis for an arrest, or probable cause for a search warrant.
B) If they make an arrest or even feel threatened they are usually permitted to search for weapons in your immediate area. Do you keep a baseball bat inside the door for your protection? Even if you don’t, once they step inside to look, they are in your home and may continue to search.
C) It is hard not to be intimidated by someone in authority. Some animal control is even done by local police, who carry guns. It is easy for them to get “in your face”, causing you to back up into the home. Once you go in, it will be interpreted as an invitation to follow.
4. If they claim to have a warrant, demand to see it. In general, a search warrant must be signed by a judge. A warrant to search your home for dogs does not include an inventory of your jewellery box. A warrant to search your kennel in the garage or in the barn does not include a search of your home.
5. In some locations dog owners may have obtained special “breeder permits” that stipulate that Animal Control has your permission to enter at any time. If you have signed such a permit they still cannot enter against your wishes, since you can revoke the permission at any time. However, if you refuse permission it may allow them to cancel your breeder permit, so you have to weigh the consequences.
6. Warning – anyone in lawful possession of the premises may be able to give permission for a search. Make sure your roommate, babysitter, dog-sitter, housekeeper and other know that they should not let animal control into your home or on your property (i.e. backyard, garage, etc.).
How to Handle Questions:
1. Don’t answer any questions beyond identifying yourself for the officer. Anything you say to the officer in your defence cannot be used in court (hearsay). Anything you say that is harmful to you will be used in court (confessions are not considered hearsay). You cannot win, except by remaining silent.
2. Be polite but firm. Do not argue, bad-mouth, curse, threaten or try to intimidate the officer.
3. Do not lie to an officer, ever. However, it is NOT a lie to exercise your right to remain silent.
4. Keep your hands in plain sight. People have been shot by police when common objects, such as a wallet, were mistaken for a gun.
5. Do not touch the officer in any way. Do not physically resist an officer, no matter how unlawful his or her actions.
6. Don’t try to tell your side of the story, it cannot help.
7. Do not threaten the officer that you plan to file a complaint for their actions.
8. If the questioning persists, demand to speak to a lawyer first. Repeat as necessary.
Gathering the Facts:
1. Get the name and badge number of each officer involved. If he/she does not volunteer this information, ask.
2. Ask the name of the agency they represent. Different agencies have different enforcement responsibilities.
3. Ask why they are there. Request the factual basis of the complaint and the identity of the complainant.
4. If they have other people with them (Humane Society, press, etc.) get the names and organizations for all present.
5. Note the names (and addresses) of any witnesses to the encounter.
6. If you are physically injured by an officer, you should take photographs of the injuries immediately, but do not forego proper medical treatment first.
7. Write down all of the information, as well as the date and time of the incident immediately, while details are fresh in your mind.
8. If you rights are violated, file a complaint with the appropriate body.
If You Are Arrested:
1. Remain silent. Answer no questions until you have consulted with a lawyer.
2. Don’t “explain” anything. You will have time for explanations after you have talked to a lawyer.
3. Within a reasonable time they must allow you to make a phone call to get a lawyer or arrange bail. They are not allowed to listen to your phone call to your attorney, but they may “monitor” the rooms for “your protection”. Do not say anything you do not want them to overhear; save that until after you are out on bail.
Telephone Inquiries or Threats:
You may receive telephone inquiries concerning the number of dogs you own and whether any dogs or puppies are for sale. Other questions may also be asked.
Your response should be to inquire “Are you interested in a puppy?”. If the answer is “yes”, ask that person for his/her name, address and phone number. Suggest that you or a responsible breeder will contact that person at a more convenient time for you.
If the answer is friendly and genuinely inquisitive, invite the person to look at your puppies.
If the question asked is “What is the price of each puppy?”, simply say that puppies of this type are being sold for between “X” and “Y” dollars. Never say that you are selling them.
If the question asked is “Are these your puppies?”, you should ask, “Why do you want to know?”.
If you conversation indicates that the person is representing the county clerk’s office or allegedly representing an official body, ask the caller for:
Full name, title and phone number
Agency’s full name and full address
Their supervisor’s full name and phone number
Nature of the inquiry (what it is about)
Why the inquiry is being made
How your name and phone number were obtained
Ask that all future questions from that agency be submitted in writing
Preventative Measures:
1. Always keep you kennel clean and take goo
d care of your animals.
2. Consider a P.O. Box or other address for business cards and advertisements. Keep descriptions of your location general (i.e. Southern California, rather than the name of the city where you live). The internet can provide anonymity for initial contacts. You can even buy a “remote prefix” to get a number from a nearby community forwarded to your phone or to a voice mail. Avoid local newspaper classifieds, they are often monitored.
3. Screen any potential puppy buyers carefully. Always be alert that they may be Animal Control or even Animal Rights working under cover.
4. Don’t allow strangers into your home until you have screened them.
5. Be fair and honest in all of your dealings, and be on good terms with your neighbors. Most animal control contacts are complaint-driven. Some complaints may arise as harassment by people with unrelated grievances against you. It may be a disgruntled dog
buyer or a cranky neighbor who doesn’t like you parking in front of his house.
6. Anything about you that can be observed in “plain sight” from the street or sidewalk can become probably cause for a warrant. Even areas on your property open to visitors can be dangerous. Be aware of which areas of your home are visible from the outside and plan accordingly.
7. If you are confronted by Animal Control and turn them away, assume they will be back. Use the time available to make sure everything is clean and presentable. If you are over the limit on the number of pets, find friends who can provide temporary shelter for your dogs.
Whatever you do, stay calm and keep your wits about you.
Just say “no”, no matter what threats or promises of leniency they make.
When in doubt, say nothing and speak to a lawyer afterwards.
Hermine Stover,
Secretary Responsible Dog Owners Of The Western States
23280 Stephanie Perris CA 92570
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
by Ms. Dany Canino
Purchasing a dog must be one of the most well thought out decisions you will ever make. You should approach it with as much concern (if not more) as you would when buying a car. A car is something that you will probably keep for about 3 years and then trade in for another. A dog is just coming into his prime at 3 years and is something you will have with you, barring any unforeseen tragedies, for 9-13 years. So, just as you would research to make buying just the “right car” and would ask a salesman questions about the vehicle, you need to research to make sure you are buying just the “right dog”. You´ll need to ask questions of the breeder of the dog. You wouldn´t buy a car on an impulse, purchasing the first one you see, and you should not buy a dog on impulse; buying the first one you see.
This process may take a little time on your part as you may have to talk to several breeders. However, for a one-time investment it should be worth taking this time, or perhaps you should rethink be buying a dog at all.
One of the best ways to decide which breed is right for you is to go to the public library and look for a book called: The AKC Complete Book Of Dogs. This book will not only show you pictures of the different breeds, but will teach you the history of the breed and what they were bred to do.
If you are an apartment or condo dweller than you´re wise to stay with a smaller, less active breed; i.e., a smaller Spaniel, a Toy breed, one of the smaller Terrier breeds and also some of the Non Sporting breeds. The Working, Herding, and larger Sporting and Hound breeds may be very appealing to the eye, but would not be a good choice for you.
Once you´ve decided what breed (s) you´re interested in, how do you go about finding a breeder? There are two ways to accomplish this.
Contact The American Kennel Club – 5580 Centerview Dr., Raleigh, NC 27606. Attn: Parent Club Referral. (www.akc.org) Ask them to refer you to either the parent club of the breed you´re interested in; or to refer you to a local kennel club referral to accomplish this. I know this seems like a lot of work, but remember this dog is going to be with you for a long time.
Buy a copy of Dog World at your local newsstand. A lot of breeders advertise in this magazine.
You could also ask the AKC to give you a current list of available dog shows in your area so you could go and see the breed you prefer in person. This way, you´ll get a chance to meet a few breeders. Don´t be shy— breeders love to talk about their breed.
There are certain genetic traits carried by each breed that you should learn about. So when you contact the breed´s parent club or when you speak to the breeders, learn to ask questions.
For example: “Are their genetic problems I should know about? Has your breeding stock been tested for the genetic traits that the Parent Club says is associated with this breed? Should I decide to purchase one of your puppies, what kind of “written” guarantees do you offer?” The more you ask, the more you´ll learn what to ask and how to log in the answers.
LET ME SET A HYPOTHETICAL SITUATION: Let´s say that you´re interested in buying a Golden Retriever. You´ve met a breeder at a dog show and he/she has puppies for sale. You´ve been shown the sire of the puppies at the show and you´re very impressed. The breeder has shown you a picture of the dam of the litter and, again you´re impressed. You´re pretty sure that this breeding is going to be able to offer you just what you want. So now you begin to ask your questions.
“Y” = You “B” = Breeder
Y: “Have the sire and dam of this litter been OFA certified?” (hips certified by the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals)
B: “Yes”
Y: “Have the sire and dam had their eyes certified for any eye abnormalities?”
B: “Yes, and the pups were tested at 6 weeks of age.”
Y: If I should purchase a puppy from you with the idea of eventually showing and breeding, what kind of guarantees do you offer and, is it in writing?”
B: For a potential show/and breeding stock, I offer a full guarantee against hip dysplasia, eye problems, and disqualifying faults as per the AKC breed standard. I offer partial money back or a replacement puppy after you have proven to me that the effected puppy has been rendered sterile.”
Y: “Have the sire and dam had the test for “SAS”?” (this is Subvalvular Aortic Stenosis)
B: “Yes”.
Y: What is the youngest age you will let the puppy go?
B: Definitely not before 7-8 weeks of age, so that they´ve had time to socialize with their littermates and I´ve been able to give them some protective shots and have wormed them.
This breeder would be deemed a conscientious breeder. You can be sure this breeder will respect you for having done your homework. It proves to the breeder that you´re not an “impulse buyer”; working off of your emotions solely, but that you are looking for a long -term investment.
Should you not have any interest in showing or breeding, you need to alert the breeder. In every litter there are certain pups that don´t quite measure up to the breeder´s ideal of a “show dog”. That doesn´t mean that this dog wouldn´t be a great family pet, nor would it imply that this wouldn´t be a beautiful animal to look at. It just might mean that the pup is lacking some of the attributes that would make it successful in the AKC show ring.
Be sure to discuss the benefits of spaying and neutering with the breeder. A good breeder will require that a non-showable pup (a pet) be rendered sterile.
When you ask questions of the breeders, if any one of them answers your question by saying, “…no, I don´t bother with all of that because my line has never had those problems.” (The only way this could be proven to be true is if the breeder tested) Thank them for their time and go talk to another breeder. You do not want to buy a dog from this person.
When you´ve made the final decision to buy your pup from a particular breeder, there are certain things you should also be guaranteed to get.
A pedigree that shows your pup´s family tree.
An AKC registration form (called a blue slip), or a promise (in writing) that it will be delivered to you when the breeder receives it from AKC.
Instructions on what to feed your pup and how much. Also a 2day supply of food until you can get to the pet store.
A health record on your pup noting what inoculations have been given and what boosters are due and when. It should also be noted when the pup was wormed.
A 48-72 hour Vet check for your puppy. (This is to ensure you that your pup is healthy in the eyes of a medical professional.)
Some verbal or written information alerting you on what to expect from your puppy.
An offer from the breeder to be “just a phone call away” should you have any questions about anything.
As I mentioned earlier, it might take a litt
le bit of your time, but when you compare the time frame of asking these questions to the time frame of having this dog, it´s a small trade off.
So don´t be afraid to ask and don´t feel that any questions are too unimportant. It only shows the breeder that you want to make sure you´re selecting the right puppy to live out its life with you.
Throughout this article I have referred to “breeders” and “pet supply stores”. This is because I don´t feel it´s wise to ever buy a dog from a pet store. Most pups that are sold at pet shops (originally) come from “puppy mills”. Their genetic background is never checked. Be cautious about buying a puppy from someone that puts an ad in the paper. First make sure that they can answer your questions. If they can´t answer the same questions you pose to the “professional breeder”, don´t buy their pup. Above all don´t be in a hurry to buy. Take your time and be sure. You, your family, the breeder, and in particular the puppy, will be better for it in the long run.
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
- Because the U.S. and Canadian Titles and Meanings are so similar, we are showing the U.S. system below.
Ch – Champion of Record – earned by gaining 15 points in conformation wins. Points awarded is determined by the number of other entries the winning dog defeats. A dog must win at least two majors (by winning at two different shows under two different judges where there are enough entries defeated to equal 3-5 points by the AKC point system.
OTCh – Obedience Trial Champion
To earn an obedience title, the dog must have a passing score of 50% of possible points or better, and an overall passing score at three different competitions under three different judges.
CD – Companion Dog (First Level Obedience Competition, basic obedience exercises)
CDX – Companion Dog Excellent (Intermediate Level Obedience Competition, more advanced obedience work)
UD – Utility Dog (Advanced Level Obedience Competition, difficult obedience work, including hand signals)
UDX – The highest obedience degree AKC presently awards
TRACKING
TD – Tracking Dog
TDX – Tracking Dog Excellent
VST – Variable Surface Tracking
HERDING
- HIC – Herding Instinct Certificate
HT – Herding Tested
PT – PreTrial Tested
HS – Herding Started
HI – Herding Intermediate
HX – Herding Excellent
HCh – Herding Champion
AGILITY
NA – Novice Agility
OA – Open Agility
AX – Agility Excellent
MX – Master Agility Excellent
NAJ – Novice Agility Jumper
OAJ – Open Agility Jumper
EAJ – Excellent Agility Jumper
AKC Unofficial Titles
CGC – Canine Good Citizen
ROM – Register of Merit – A dog or bitch must earn a number of points specified by the DPCA rules, and also meet the numbers of champion and major pointed progeny required by DPCA. The requirements for bitches are less than the requirements for the dogs because males have the opportunity to produce a far larger number of offspring.
ROMC – Canadian ROM
ROM/C – designates that the dog has earned an American and a Canadian ROM.
TT – Temperament Tested
TC – Temperament Certified
AOE – Award of Excellence-A dog must meet qualifications in conformation, obedience, and also be OFA´d to earn this award.
New competitions are being added and rules for competitions change, for the most up to date rules and regulations, check with the AKC and the DPCA.
Miscellaneous American titles often seen on pedigrees and in advertising.
BIS – Best in Show at an All-Breed Show in conformation.
BISS – Best in Show Specialty (where only dogs of the same breed are competing in conformation)
BOB – Best of Breed
BOS – Best Opposite Sex
BOW – Best of Winners (best between Winners Dog and Winners Bitch in breed conformation class competition)
WD – Winners Dog – the winning dog overall of the regular classes of his sex.
WB – Winners Bitch – the winning bitch overall of the regular classes of her sex.
RWD/RWB – Runner up to the winners dog and bitch, if the winner becomes ineligible for the award then the runner up will receive the points awarded from that show.
Special – A dog that is already a Champion that is competing for Best of Breed only. A Champion cannot compete in the classes where points are earned (because a Champion has already earned them!)
RTD – Registered Therapy Dog
TD I- Dog has passed Therapy Dog International´s testing
HEALTH CERTIFICATIONS
OVC – Ontario Veterinary College
OVC Hip Certification – A dog may be preliminary screened at a younger age, but will not receive a certification unless the dog is at least 18 months old. It was told to me by a tech in the radiology department of OVC that they consider hips to either be bad, in which case they are rated on a scale from 0 – 4, with 4 being the worse, or they are “good” in which case the animal will receive a certification number (if 18 months or older. Therefore they do not follow the U.S. rating system which includes “FAIR”, Good, Excellent”. Their exact words were “the hips are either GOOD or they are NOT.
OFA – Orthopedic Foundation for Animals
OFA Hip Certifications – dogs within a specified range of normal hip x-rays are certified OFA-Excellent, Good, or Fair
OFA – Elbow Certification – Certified by OFA for normal elbows on x-ray, only one grade recognized as normal. Check with OFA for proper procedures and positioning for hip and elbow x-rays. A dog may be preliminary screened at a younger age, but will not receive a certification unless the dog is at least 24 months old.
OFA is also now doing certifications for other canine health concerns such as normal thyroid levels, check with OFA for accurate data and rules concerning these.
CERF – Canine Eye Registry Foundation-dog is certified to have normal eyes. Re-certification must be done annually.
vWD – Von Willebrands Disease free-meaning the dog has been tested and found free of vWD, a bleeding disorder, vWD free ratings also are often given with a percentage listed. For the best information on Von Willebrand´s Disease, contact Dr Jean Dodds, who is the leading research specialist in blood disorders.
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
by Bob and Nancy Vandiver
Tips on Buying a Puppy
Please read this all the way through. You will find some useful information throughout the page including breeders to contact and resources to help you learn what to look for in your puppy search.
The first consideration is where to buy your puppy. There are essentially three kinds of suppliers of puppies to the general market. They are the Hobby Show Breeders, Back Yard Breeders, and Commercial Breeders .
Although all breeders within these categories don’t precisely fit the descriptions I discuss below, I believe that over 90% of them do. It’s rare breeder in a category that strays far from the description you are about to read.
Let’s consider each type of breeder.
Hobby Show Breeders This breeder is primarily interested in the betterment of the breed. They are almost always actively involved in showing in conformation, and often participate in obedience, and/or agility. Most of them are actively involved in dog clubs. Most serious breeders are members of the Doberman Pinscher Club of America.
They breed no more than one litter a year … two at the most. They fully understand the health issues within the breed and test both sire and dam for the important ones. These breeders select based on correct Doberman temperaments. They spend a great deal of effort researching pedigrees and stud dogs to select the breeding most likely to yield the best possible puppies. The puppies are usually whelped and raised in their homes and are socialized beginning at a very early age to optimize their temperaments for life in the real world.
Their goal is to breed the best Doberman, because they plan to keep one of the puppies for themselves as a show competitor. The facts of life, however, is that not all of the litter will be show quality. In fact, seldom is even half of a litter show quality. Many breeders consider a litter with one or two potential champions as a successful breeding. The remainder of the litter are placed in pet or performance homes (obedience and agility usually). If you are fortunate, you may get one of these puppies.
Back Yard Breeders This breeder falls into two separate categories. One is a family that typically has a one bitch that they would like to breed “so the kids can learn about birth” or “because the dam is such a great pet and they want another” or because they see an opportunity “to make a few dollars” with little effort. These breeders know little about the breed. They spend no time seriously searching for the right stud dog. They usually select the sire based on knowing someone in town who owns a male. They do not understand the genetic health issues or the need to health test the sire and dam before breeding. No consideration is given to the quality of the breeding partners, because they simply don’t know what constitutes a good Doberman.
The second category of Back Yard Breeder has a male and one or two females. They breed solely to make money, and are not motivated by any other factor. The knowledge of these breeders is typically as lacking as that of the first category of Back Yard Breeder.
Commercial Breeders This breeder houses many males and females of several breeds. The bitches are usually bred every time they are in season, until they can produce no more. The animals are all in kennels … some of which are sanitary, and many others are not. There is no attempt to breed for anything but volume and dollars. The puppies are usually sold to brokers at 5 to 6 weeks old. The brokers then resell them to pet shops and other retail outlets.
Many of the Commercial Breeders do not provide American Kennel Club (AKC) registration papers. AKC requires that the breeders maintain accurate records of their breeding to ensure the accuracy of AKC’s registration. AKC also requires that the animals be kept in an environment acceptable to AKC for the health and sanitation of the dogs. Many of these breeders can’t and/or won’t meet AKC’s requirements. Since they know that many of the dog-buying public are not really knowledgeable of registrations, they have opened up their own registries that allow any dog to be registered. The unsuspecting public assumes that it is AKC registration and in some cases the Commercial Breeder will even tell the buyers that the papers can be transferred to AKC registration later. This is not correct. Many of these registration organizations require no proof of parentage and have no inspections for health conditions.
Some of the commercial breeders specialize in only one or two breeds …. including Dobermans and Rottweilers. Many of these breeders produce a lot of puppies and peddle a good deal of misinformation. The puppies are ALWAYS whelped and raised in a kennel with no exposure to a home environment.
They would have you believe that their dogs are better by calling them “Super Dobes” and by grading them as “superior” or some other classification that infer that they are of high quality. In fact there are almost never any champions within the past five generations of the puppy you will buy. Some of these breeders pride themselves on “super sized” Dobermans. Big Dobermans are not correct. The standard calls for a male to be a maximum of 28″ at the shoulders and a bitch to be a maximum of 26″. A correct male will weigh in the mid-eighty pound range and a correct bitch will weigh in the upper fifty to lower sixty pound range. Bigger is NOT better.
Some of the commercial breeders promise dogs that are “to your specifications” on temperament, when in fact, you will be sold just any puppy out of their many litters. They claim that they are out there proving the quality of their dogs in the obedience ring. Upon inspection, you’ll find that almost all the obedience dogs are at the lowest title, and seldom have good scores … just enough to scrape by for a title. Virtually none of them can even approach the level required of an AKC Obedience Champion title.
Importantly, some of these breeders charge outrageous prices for the quality level they sell. They typically sell puppies for MORE than a good show breeder asks for a really top quality pet that was raised in the home and properly socialized.
We recently placed a show puppy with a person who had bought a puppy from one of the Doberman Commercial Breeders specializing in Dobermans. The dog was purchased for the price of a good show quality dog from a reputable breeder. However, puppy from the commercial breeder has hip dysplasia in both hips, and is severely limited on what it can do. There was not one AKC champion in the entire pedigree, and only one obedience titled dog. It was titled at the lowest possible level. The “guarantee” promises to replace the puppy after its death …. but who wants another dyspla
stic dog from this breeder?
Which Breeder Should You Use?
It’s clear where you want to buy your puppy. The problem is that there are not enough Hobby Show Breeders to supply the market with good puppies. Most of these breeders are very concerned where their puppies go, and how they will be taken care of. They will ask a lot of questions before letting you have one of their puppies. However, we believe that it is well worth your effort to search out a good breeder. Your puppy will be with you for many years. Take your time !!
It is important to have a healthy Doberman with a good temperament and a sound body. Whether we like it or not, many people are afraid of Dobermans, and jump to the incorrect conclusion that they are all aggressive. You must be reasonably assured that your Doberman has been bred with correct temperament in mind, and that it has been socialized early, so that it can live well in our society.
Health Issues in Dobermans
All purebred dogs have known health issues. Dogs that are not purebred have health issues too. You just don’t know which ones they will have.
There are a few health issues that you should be aware of when looking for your Doberman puppy. The most prevalent health problems in Dobermans are Hip Dysplasia, Cardiomyopathy, hypothyroidism, CVI (wobbler’s syndrome), and von Willebrand’s disease,
Hip Dysplasia is a genetic disease that results in a hip joint that is too shallow for the “ball” to fit correctly. This can be a debilitating disease, depending on the severity. It is rare in Dobermans, from show lines, but it does occur more commonly in the general Doberman population. We recommend that you INSIST on BOTH parents having certificates from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA). Do not take the breeder’s word. Ask to see the certificate, or get the exact AKC registered names of the dogs and go to the OFA we site. You can search the database for the dog’s name to see if OFA has certified the hips to be free of dysplasia.
Dobermans have a tendency to have Cardiomyopathy, a heart disease. At present there is no conclusive test, but both parents should have at least an EKG screening to determine if they had an indication of Cardio at the time the test was done. This is the minimum test that most breeders perform to screen for cardio. Conscientious breeders know from pedigree information which animals had Cardio.
Hypothyroidism is found in Dobermans, but it is not a common problem among well-bred dogs. Both parents can and should be tested for hypothyroidism and both should have normal results. Do not purchase a puppy produced by parents that have not been tested.
CVI (wobbler’s syndrome) an inherited disease of the spinal column. It usually occurs as an adult (3 + years old). There is no test for this disease, but knowledgeable breeders know which dogs have been affected by this disease, and they do not use them in their breeding program. This is another reason to know your breeder, their knowledge of health issues, and their commitment to improving.
von Willebrand’s Disease (vWD) is a blood disease that is inherited. It is one of the least destructive diseases in Dobermans, but it should no be ignored. There are very good DNA tests available. Both parents should be tested. The genetic tendency of the puppies to have vWD can be predicted reliably based on the tests of the parents.
Now that you are terrified that the Doberman is a lost cause health wise, let me assure you that there are many that live long and full lives with no health problems. Just be careful where you get your puppy.
What Questions Should You Ask?
The best way to tell if you have contacted a good breeder is to ask the right questions, and to know in advance what the response should be. You don’t necessarily need to ask these questions, but you should have the information they generate from your conversation with the breeder.
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- What dog clubs do you belong to, and what is your involvement?
The response you should expect: The breeder should belong to the Doberman Pinscher Club of America (DPCA) and preferably a local all-breed kennel club. They should be able to tell you their activities so that you know that they are seriously involved in dogs and breeding for the betterment of the breed.
- Have the parents been tested for the diseases listed above (those that have tests)?
The response you should expect: Yes
- Is one or more parent an AKC champions?
The response you should expect: Yes
- What was the basis for selecting the sire and dam for this litter?
The response you should expect: The dam is of exceptional quality (preferably and AKC Champion) with correct temperament and health. The sire is a dog of similar type (also preferably an AKC Champion) with a correct temperament and health. The sire and dam should not have the same faults in their body structure.
- Describe your procedure during whelping.
The response you should expect: This question could be answered in detail, but the information we are looking for is “We are with the bitch 24 hours a day the day before the litter is due and for the first few days after birth.
- How are the puppies raised?
The response you should expect: Raised in the home with lots of interaction with people.
- How are puppies socialized?
The response you should expect: We have visitors frequently who come to play with the puppies. We also have taken them away from home individually (after about 7 weeks) to give them exposure to the outside world.
- At what age do you crop the ears?
The response you should expect: This varies from breeder to breeder but is usually from 7 to 9 weeks. The veterinarian should be one that they have used before whose cropping produced very good ear shape at adulthood.
- Do you sell your puppies on contract? What are the terms?
The response you should expect: Most breeders sell their puppies on contract. Members of the Doberman Pinscher Club of America are bound by a code of ethics that requires a contract or letter of understanding for puppy sales. They normally do not let pet quality puppies go to homes without a contractual obligation to spay or neuter the puppy. Some breeders allow the owner to keep the puppy in tact, but offer a limited registration. This allows the dog to compete in any AKC performance event except conformation. Any puppies produced by the dog or bitch are not registerable by AKC. This protects the breeders from unscrupulous people who buy a pet quality, then breed it with the intent of capitalizing on the hard work of the reputable breeder. The breeders will also have other requirements in their contract regarding the care of the puppy and the return of the puppy under certain circumstances.
- How do you select your puppy buyers?
The response you should expect: The buyer should have a screening process that they can describe. You may have already been exposed to the screening process before you had the
opportunity to ask these questions.
Final Thoughts
These are some of the things you need to know about your breeder before you buy. You owe it to yourself to learn as much as possible about the breed before you buy. You don’t need to be an expert on the breed, but you should have learned enough to know if the breeder is “feeding you a line”.
Visit the DPCA web site at https://www.dpca.org/ to learn more. A good area on this site is the Public Educational page as well as the DPCA Breeder Referral page.
If you’ve gotten this far, congratulations … you are serious about your search. To help you along, here is the link to the DPCA Breeders Referral Committee. This is the first step in finding a reputable breeder who likely does everything described above and more.
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
by Fred Heal, Jagermeister Dobermans
I knew an old Doberman a while ago. He was 15 years old and lived on a farm with two other medium sized dogs of no particular breed. When he was younger he used to be top dog on the place, but that was years ago. He still protected his food bowl though and was let out to cavort with the other farm dogs every morning. The afternoons were for sleeping and dreaming.
When someone came up the drive he would bark up a storm. A deep bark, that crackled a little because he didn’t have the force to do it like he used to. When the other dogs went hunting in the fields he went too. When he came home he would go to the kitchen door and woof to be let in. When he was admitted he would go to the center of the kitchen floor, make sure his mistress was watching, then open his mouth and let out the mouse/gift he had caught in the field. The mouse would usually run away unhurt because the old boy really had no teeth left in his mouth, only a couple of ground-down molars that he used for holding bones or other prized possessions. The rest had been ground away by a life of eating dry dog kibble, gnawing bones, and even chewing rocks on occasion. He had a smile that was all gums.
The rest of the old Dobe was not like it used to be either. The tan markings on his muzzle were grizzled and white. His rear legs seemed wizened and straighter than they used to be so he couldn’t run too well anymore. He stood with his rear legs well under him, it was easier to keep his balance that way. His eyes were always slightly moist looking now. They were rounder, less sharp, and didn’t seem to be as sinister as they did years ago. His shoulders still looked muscled, but his ribs stood out and his coat seemed loose and less sleek than before. Although at first glance he looked fierce, because he was still a Doberman, a second look showed the age.
A few months later, when I walked up his drive he stood looking at me like an old warrior. He didn’t run up and bark. Now he just stood blocking your path. If you walked around him he would turn slowly and follow you to the door. Even knowing he was old, it still made you nervous having him behind you. After all, he was still a Doberman.
The last time I saw him, it was summer and he was lying in the sun near his back porch. He watched me come towards him, the old eyes glazed over with age, looking at me with a puzzled expression. A look of “I think I know you… but I’m not sure”. He didn’t lie on the porch, I guess because it was small and he would have to move when someone came or went. Lying beside it was just as good…..he could still protect his family. I looked at him for the last time. I had seen that look before. He seemed to know what I was thinking. He moved to get up but I went to him quickly. I crouched beside him and scratched his ears, his head sank slowly to his paws and his eyes closed … God, I had to leave.
I went in the house and spoke to the owners. Not about the Doberman but about whatever it was I came for. When I left I made some excuse to use the front door … I couldn’t take seeing those eyes again.
The old Doberman is gone now.
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
- The Backyard Breeders’ and Puppy Millers’ Big Book of Old Excuses
- Written by Denna Pace
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- 1. When called on bad breeding practices, ALWAYS claim that you are merely an innocent posting as a favor to a friend or family member.
2. Point out that everybody you know breeds this way, therefore it must be okay.
3. Claim that “snobby show breeders” are only criticizing you because they want to corner the market on puppy profit.
4. Claim that a Champion in the pedigree is just as good as 56 Champions in the pedigree. Not that it matters, because you doubt that there is such a thing as a dog with 56 champions in the pedigree.
5. Claim that you are just trying to produce good pets, therefore good pets are all you need for breeding.
6. When asked about health testing, enthusiastically point out that your bitch had a health checkup before breeding.
7. Be sure to mention that you do not need to run such health tests as OFA, CERF, thyroid, cardiac, patellae, etc., because your dogs look healthy and had no visible problems at their last vet checkup.
8. Point out that these tests cost too much and would cut into your profit margin. Be sure to champion the right of poor people to breed dogs.
9. Confidently assure worried rescuers that no puppy you produce, or any of their puppies or grand puppies or great-grand-puppies will end up in shelters because you have a bunch of friends who have told you that they’d like a pup from your bitch.
10. Point out that you don’t need Championships or working titles on your dogs because you are breeding for temperament and your dog is really sweet.
11. Silence those annoying people who ask about your health guarantee by assuring them that buyers can return any sick puppies and you will replace it with another pup as long as it got sick within a certain amount of time of sale and as long as you don’t think the buyer did something to make the puppy sick.
12. If your breed or line is rare (or you have a “rare” color, or believe your breed or color is rare), be sure to remind everyone that you do not need to show, temperament test, or health test your breeding stock because you are doing the world a service by continuing this “rare” breed/color/line.
13. No matter what anyone else says, claim that you obviously know what you are doing because you’ve been breeding for a long time. Point to the hundreds of puppies you’ve pumped out over the years as proof.
14. If this is your first attempt at breeding, make sure to remind everyone that you HAVE to breed your dog because how else are you going to learn how to breed?
15. Assure everyone that your dog does not need to be shown because you were assured by someone at Petsmart/the park/the vet’s office/a friend that your dog is a perfect example of the breed.
16. Always remember that “rare” colors, oversized or undersized dogs, and mixes of popular breeds are great selling points. Anyone who doesn’t think so is obviously not in tune with their customers’ wishes.
17. Claim that your dogs are better because they are not inbred, as inbreeding obviously produces sick/stupid/deformed dogs. If breeding poo [as in “Cock-a-Poo,” “Peek-a-Poo,” etc.] dogs or other mutts, always point to “hybrid vigor” as proof of your dogs’ superiority.
18. Remind everyone that you do not need a waiting list because your puppies are cute.
19. Assure everyone that your puppies will not end up in shelters because they are cute.
20. Claim that YOUR breed never ends up in shelters in your area, therefore your puppies will never end up in shelters.
21. If asked why you think your dogs are breeding quality, point out that they “have papers.” Extra points awarded for using the phrase “AKC Certified.” Double points if those papers come from the Continental Kennel Club.
22. If you sell a sick puppy, always blame the owners for making it sick. If the owners are clearly not responsible, blame their vet. (see #11)
23. If presented with irrefutable evidence proving you wrong on any excuses you have used, pretend your server did not receive the post/e-mail.
24. Claim that none of the rules of ethical breeding apply to you because you only intend to have one litter and therefore aren’t a “real” breeder.
25. If all else fails, tell everyone who criticizes you to “get a life.”
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
My name is Max and I have a little something I’d like to whisper in your ear. I know that you humans lead busy lives. Some have to work, some have children to raise. It always seems like you are running here and there, often much too fast, often never noticing the truly grand things in life.
Look down at me now, while you sit there at your computer. See the way my dark brown eyes look at yours? They are slightly cloudy now, that comes with age. The grey hairs are beginning to ring my soft muzzle. You smile at me; I see love in your eyes. What do you see in mine?
Do you see a spirit, a soul inside who loves you as no other could in the world? A spirit that would forgive all trespasses of prior wrong doing for just a simple moment of your time? That is all I ask. To slow down if even for a few minutes to be with me.
So many times you have been saddened by the words you read on that screen, of others of my kind, passing. Sometimes we die young and oh so quickly, sometimes so suddenly it wrenches your heart out of your throat.
Sometimes we age so slowly before your eyes that you do not even seem to know, until the very end, when we look at you with grizzled muzzles and cataract clouded eyes. Still the love is always there, even when we take that long sleep, to run free in distant lands.
I may not be here tomorrow; I may not be here next week. Someday you will shed the waters from your eyes, that humans have when deep grief fills their souls, and you will be angry at yourself that you did not have just “One more day” with me.
Because I love you so, your sorrow touches my spirit and grieves me. We have now, together. So come, sit down here next to me on the floor. And look deep into my eyes. What do you see? If you look hard and deep enough we will talk, you and I, heart to heart. Come to me not as “alpha” or as a “trainer” or even a “Mom or Dad”, come to me as a living soul and stroke my fur and let us look deep into one another’s eyes, and talk. I may tell you something about the fun of chasing a tennis ball, or I may tell you something profound about myself, or even life in general. You decided to have me in your life (I hope) because you wanted a soul to share just such things with.
Someone very different from you, and here I am. I am a dog, but I am alive. I feel emotion, I feel physical senses, and I can revel in the differences of our spirits and souls. I do not think of you as a “Dog on two feet”—I know what you are. You are human, in all your quirkiness, and I love you still.
Now, come sit with me, on the floor. Enter my world, and let time slow down if even for only 15 minutes. Look deep in my eyes, and whisper to my ears. Speak with your heart, with your joy and I will know your true self. We may not have tomorrow, and life is oh so very short.
Love,
Max
(on behalf of all canines everywhere) This article may be shared freely as long as the credit J.D.Ellis 2001 appears with the post,
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
by Ms Dany Canino
Bringing a new puppy into your home is a very big responsibility. Not only do you need to make sure you have a dog crate on hand for housebreaking and quiet time for your new family addition, but you also need to make sure that your house is going to be safe for your puppy.
If you had a toddler in your home you would make sure that there was nothing harmful within this child´s reach. You would make sure that all electrical outlets had safety plugs in them so that this baby wouldn´t get shocked through curiosity.
Well, there are things you´ll need to check out for safety before you bring this puppy into your home.
One of the most dangerous things is any small object that a puppy could grab to chew, running the risk of the object lodging in the puppy´s throat.
These things should be put in a higher place when the puppy is loose to roam.
A safe situation is to not allow the puppy complete freedom to roam through your house. The puppy should be monitored so he doesn´t get into dangerous things, and to scold him when he does. Puppies like to taste, mouth, and chew anything within their reach. They are typically curious.
Find out from your local nursery which plants that are in your home and on the floor are toxic. Put them out of the pup´s reach. Remember, it won´t be long before this pup is old enough for training classes and he will learn to leave these things alone. However, for now, it´s your job to make these things disappear from his path of curiosity.
If you´re a chocoholic and like to keep a candy dish handy and within reach, make sure it´s not within the puppy´s reach. Chocolate contains theobromine, which is very toxic to dogs. So put the chocolate up. Just thinks of the pounds you won´t put on!
Low garbage cans are also an invitation to trouble. That small trash can that´s in your bathroom that you throw your Kleenex in can prove harmful to your puppy. The kitchen trash can should be safe if it´s much taller than your pup, but if it too is very low to the ground your puppy is going to be sure it was put there for him to investigate. If he successfully gets in to it, he´ll have the time of his life; until the diarrhea sets in.
If you get your puppy during the Christmas holidays be sure to put a barrier around the tree, or your puppy will surely peek at all the presents before Santa wants him to. The ornaments, tinsel and tree are also dangerous.
Stairs should be closed off until the puppy is old enough to go up and down them safely. Puppies don´t realize that they should slow down in this situation so that they don´t injure themselves.
Basically, when the puppy is inside your house he should be monitored or be in his crate for safety. If he gets into something, destroys something, or gets hurt; you probably have yourself to blame. It means you weren´t being an observant puppy owner.
All of this “danger time” will pass before you know it, so just take the time to look around and use some common sense.
Now, onto the backyard and the garage. I once made the mistake of leaving the side door open to the garage. My curious puppy decided to check out the fishing tackle box. He got a fish hook speared into his lip. Of course this happened late at night, so it became an emergency situation and the vet bill reminded me to not be so careless again.
I once had a client whose puppy ate part of a baby shoe. He ate the tongue and the laces and had to undergo emergency surgery. He obviously had too much freedom or someone wasn´t being very observant.
If you have a pool, you´ll definitely need to make this area puppy proof. Until your pup is old enough for you to take him into the pool several times so that he learns where the steps are, he should not have access to this area at all.
Your backyard is also a place that the pup should not have complete freedom for long periods of time. If you do give him unobserved freedom in this area, be prepared to have your flowers dug up, your patio furniture will probably be chewed, the garden hose will most likely become quite holey, and that good smelling barbeque will be invaded. So don´t leave this infant alone in this area too long.
I´m sure that after reading this you´re wondering why you got a puppy in the first place. Well, that´s a healthy thought. If your lifestyle is such that you don´t have the time to puppy proof your home or property, or perhaps you don´t want to rearrange things, then maybe you should think about getting an older dog that is past the puppy stage and is looking for someone to adopt him or her. There are a lot of these animals available.
However, if a puppy is what you really want and, if you´re willing to go through a little work, this time of change in your household should pass very quickly.
Just use your common sense before you bring a puppy into your home. Look around and try to get a mental picture of the puppy in each room. You´d be surprised at how aware you can become about safety for your new friend.
Be sure to plan for an obedience class for your pup when he´s about 4 months old. You might even want to contact a dog trainer to come to your home when the puppy is around 9-10 weeks old. The professional trainer should be able to go through your house and property with you to make sure everything is okay. Also, don´t forget to get that dog crate for your puppy before you bring him home. Next to you observing the puppy, this is going to be a great safety and training device.
Your puppy will grow up so quickly that you´ll almost forget what you went through to make your house a safe place. It won´t be long before the puppy you brought home is the adult dog sharing your home as a wonderful member of your family.
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Miscellaneous
by Cheryl Gates
Doberman owners need to have fairly well developed leadership and training skills. These are incredibly intelligent, sensitive animals – they’ll pick up on fear or uncertainty in the blink of an eye and run with it as far as they can. They can manipulate and control situations and owners in unique ways people never dream of – a lot of them will dominate their owner by being whirling dervishes. They just whirl and spin and generate so much energy they overwhelm their owner – they physically outmaneuver them.
It’s very easy to teach them something, more difficult to perfect it. They like to add their own signature or touch to things … just to see how far they can push the envelope.
All of these factors add up to one thing – you teach a Doberman something
every time you interact with it and that isn’t always a good thing. You could be teaching them just how inconsistent YOU are or how easily you’ll back down or give up.
Dobermans should have good judgment and respond to the things that happen in life in an appropriate manner. Some are more outgoing than others. There’s nothing wrong with a Doberman being aloof with strangers. There’s also nothing wrong with a Doberman who trots up and says hi to everyone they encounter.
They’re high energy but there’s a difference between high energy and hyper. They need quite a bit of exercise but shouldn’t be a perpetual motion machine. It’s not a good or correct thing for a Doberman to be unable to settle.
They don’t tolerate NOT being involved with their family on a constant
basis. Dobermans are highly people oriented. Bored, lonely Dobermans get themselves into trouble, their owners don’t enjoy how their dog copes with the boredom and the loneliness. A friend of mine describes them as
requiring a higher level of owner commitment than many other breeds and I think that sums it up pretty well. There has to be a commitment to training, to exercising, to being a leader … and a strong commitment to the idea of never going to the bathroom by yourself ever again.
Size SHOULD NOT be a matter of personal preference. The Doberman standard has guidelines for height in both sexes with an ideal height listed for each gender. Weight can vary based on the amount of bone the dog has; some are more fine boned then they should be, some have so much bone and substance they’re coarse looking. They should be medium sized dogs that are elegant and moderate in appearance.
Older dogs are certainly capable of bonding with new owners – rescue wouldn’t be a viable option if the dogs were unable to transfer the bond to new owners. Rescue dogs also have the bonus of having been evaluated by long term Doberman people who are quite good at matching people up with the right dog for them.
Dogs who are best suited for the show ring or performance work will usually be placed in show or performance homes by the breeder. The pet quality puppies from these litters are just that – good pets for people who want a dog for companion purposes only. It’s not like they’re defective or anything.
Only you can decide if you’d be a good home for a Doberman. I’d hang out
with some for awhile-they might strike that chord within you, they might
drive you right up a wall. There are breeds that appeal to a larger
percentage of the population just as there are breeds who can succeed in a greater number of homes.
We like Dobermans. Lots of people don’t. You’re definitely going about it in the right way by finding out what the breed is like before you attempt to get one.
Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training
by Ms Dany Canino
A GOOD RULE OF THUMB TO REMEMBER ABOUT YOUR PUPPY IS: “IF THE PUPPY HAS A GOOD APPETITE, GOOD HEALTHY STOOLS, IS PERKY IN HIS ATTITUDE, IS DRINKING A NORMAL AMOUNT OF WATER, HE IS PROBABLY QUITE HEALTHY. YOU SHOULD ALERT YOUR VETERINARIAN UPON ANY SIGNS OF: EXTREME LOSS OF APPETITE, A STOOL CONTAINING BLOOD/MUCOUS; OR IS VERY RUNNY, IF HE IS LISTLESS AND DOESN´T SEEM TO BE DRINKING ANY WATER; THIS IS NOT HEALTHY”
Young pups, like babies, need their rest. So if you have young children at home don´t let them play too long nor too hard with the pup. The same rule applies if you have another dog in the house. Don´t let the other dog use this pup as a toy and play too hard or too long. This young puppy is going to be a bit overwhelmed by his new surroundings, so take it slow and easy. At the same time don´t let the new pup hassle the older dog that´s at home. Your other dog might feel intruded upon by this new addition to the household. He might resent this new intruder enough to want to hurt it, so you´ll need to make the introduction of the two as described below. Don´t forget to spend some special time alone with each dog too.
The best way to introduce two new dogs to each other is off of your property so that you are on neutral ground. I like to use a man´s after-shave lotion to aid the process. You splash a bit of it on the older dog and do the same with the new addition. This way, when they sniff at each other, they´ll think they´re smelling themselves. No foreign smell will occur and therefore the pup will feel safe and the older dog will not feel threatened. This first meeting is best done with both the dogs on a leash, and watch that the younger dog doesn´t hassle the other dog too much. Then you can take them home and with patience and a “watchful eye” you´ll have two dogs co-existing well in the same household.
Now, back to the new puppy. Don´t pick the puppy up too much, especially right after eating. A puppy usually needs to go potty fairly soon after eating, upon awakening, and after about 10 minutes of playtime.
Don´t give the puppy a toy that he could tear up and ingest. He doesn´t really need too many toys right now. A good hand made toy is a plastic litre bottle filled with kibble or uncooked rice. It makes a fascinating sound when rolled around and, if the pup should break it apart (pretty hard to do), the inside contents won´t hurt the pup.
Your pup also doesn´t need a lot of rawhide chew bones at this time. When he starts to teeth you should introduce him to ice cubes or put a Gumabone in the freezer about 30 minutes before you give it to the puppy. The extreme cold of either of these things will numb the gums (where he´s feeling pressure) and the hardness of these things helps to satisfy the pup´s needs of teething. If you´re using a Nylabone before introducing this to the pup, melt a beef bouillon cube in water and soak the bone for about ½ hour. This will heighten the flavor and the pup won´t find it to be a dull bone. Remember it´s at this time that the pup will want to use your furniture as a teething ring, so be prepared to keep an eye on your pup or put him in his crate if you´re too busy to watch him. I suggest you put a bell on the pup´s collar so you can hear where he is and, you can tell if he is too quiet.
Don´t ever give your young pup free run of your house. Don´t leave him loose inside while you go out for a couple of hours. If you do, you´ll come home to a different house then when you left. Pups are as curious as a 2-year-old child and when left alone will get into things. The damage can be tremendous and the danger of the pup eating something that could injure it is assured.
The introduction of a collar to your pup can begin as young as 7-8 weeks of age. A lightweight nylon collar will be fine to start off. Actual leash breaking should begin around 9-10 weeks of age. Go slow and have patience. Don´t expect miracles. Children seem to have a natural instinct for leash breaking a puppy, so let them help.
It´s a good idea to let the puppy know you have the right to take his food dish away or a bone or toy. If he growls at you, RAP HIM FIRMLY ACROSS THE NOSE WITH A COUPLE OF FINGERS AND SAY, “O U T”! in a growling tone. Then praise him for having stopped. This need not be practiced on a daily basis, but do test him out periodically so that he gets the idea that you are the Alpha dog.
Always be sure the puppy has plenty of fresh water available. If he doesn´t finish his food within 10-15 minutes, take the food away. This way he´ll always be a good eater. If you´ve chosen not to feed any moist food to your puppy, be sure to moisten his food with some water. Dry food is like eating a stack of crackers and then he´ll want to drink a lot of water. He is then a candidate for stomach bloat, which can be life threatening. You don´t have to soak the food for more than about 10 minutes.
If your pup is going to spend any time outside be sure that your property is “puppy proof”. Be sure he can´t scoot under the fence and if you have a pool be sure he can´t get to it until he´s older and has learned where the steps are. Be sure that the pup is secured in the house when the gardener or the pool man comes. A gate accidentally left open is a guarantee of a lost puppy.
Be sure that your puppy gets his weekly grooming time. Nails should be done, (even if you don´t get any nail, go through the routine anyway). Nails that are allowed to get too long can cause a dog to have splayed feet or even become crippled. If you happen to “nick” the nail don´t panic. Simply apply some Quick Stop or rub the nail across a bar of soap. The bleeding will stop right away. Be sure to give the pup a cookie treat after he´s had his nails done.
Get your puppy used to having his body touched all over. Practice examining the pup´s mouth. Even if you didn´t buy this pup as a show dog, your Vet will appreciate the fact that this pup is used to this routine. Making it a regular routine to examine your pup´s body will also make you very familiar with his body. Therefore, you will automatically “alert” when something feels different. You´ll know if there is a lump or anything else that feels different that might necessitate taking your pup to the Vet.
When your pup´s adult teeth come in you´ll need to start brushing them about 2 x´s a month, (once a week if you care to). This will help to prevent any gum disease or tooth decay. You´ll also be assured that your dog won´t get any tarter on his teeth. Giving a dog bones to chew on for this problem just isn´t enough. There are good commercial dental products on the market to make this job easy.
Don´t forget to brush your dog´s coat once or twice a week. On short-coated breeds a good rubber brush and/or an Evergentle brush works well. You can bathe your pup once or twice a month. If your dog is being fed properly and brushed frequently, there is no need to bathe him more often. If you prefer to bathe your dog instead of taking him to a professional groomer, be sure you get all the soap out of his coat. On the last rinse cycle add a little vinegar to the rinse water. This will ensure that all soap is rinsed out. Be sure to dry him well. Use a good pet shampoo or a human shampoo with a good PH balance.
There are many good flea preventative products on the market. Feel free to discuss these with your Veterinarian and/or your local pet supply store. You may also have to have your yard sprayed to prevent fleas during the peak season.
RECOMMENDED
BOOKS:
- Dog Owner´s Home Veterinary Handbook” by Carlson & Griffen
- Koehler Method Of Dog Training” by William Koehler
- Mother Knows Best” by Carol Lea Benjamin
I´ve tried to cover as much as possible for you to better enjoy your new puppy, but if you think of anything else, please don´t hesitate to contact your pup´s breeder or your Veterinarian. If you are worried about something don´t feel you´re being bothersome. It´s better to be cautious than to be sorry.
