If you’re choosing a puppy from a litter, begin by evaluating the litter as a whole. If most of the puppies run away from you, don’t buy one. Healthy puppies should be happy and playful. They might nibble at your shoes or scamper toward you. If the litter is behaving normally, look at each of the puppies individually. Cluck your tongue and jingle your car keys and watch how the puppies react. Don’t select the shyest puppy. Shy puppies almost always grow up to be shy adults. Don’t select the boldest puppy either. A middle- of-the-road puppy almost always makes the best pet. Never adopt a puppy unless you’re sure it’s healthy. Healthy puppies shouldn’t cough, sneeze, or wheeze. Inspect the puppy’s coat and its eyes, ears, dewclaws, and tail.
Coat. To examine a puppy’s coat, run your hand over its fur and make sure you don’t see any bald spots. While a puppy’s coat is certainly nothing like an adult’s–it’s thinner and fuzzier–it should be even and soft. Examine the puppy’s skin and make certain it’s free of red splotches. Make sure the puppy doesn’t have fleas.
Eyes. Examine the puppy’s eyes. Young puppies might have blue eyes that will change with age. The puppy’s eyes should be clear, however, and they shouldn’t be runny.
Ears. Make sure the pup’s ears are clean inside. If you’re buying a purebred puppy and its ears are supposed to prick up, be aware that puppies’ ears don’t stand for about 12 weeks. In addition, the ears sometimes go up and down during teething.
Dewclaws and tail. If you’re buying a purebred puppy from a breeder, make sure its dewclaws have been removed. If your breed is supposed to have its tail docked, this should already be done too.
How do you, as a prospective Doberman owner, go about finding a “perfect breeder”? The best answer is to TAKE YOUR TIME & CAREFULLY SCRUTINIZE EACH BREEDER!
A “BREEDER” is an ethical, intelligent& caring individual, whose involvement in the Doberman Breed is one of LOVE for the Breed—they want to PROTECT & ONLY DO WHAT’S RIGHT for the Breed. They have invested years of their time and dedicated large sums of money to exhibit their Dobermans to the highest levels of achievement in the various venues that allow them to select only the”BEST & SUPERIOR” Dobermans to continue the propagation of the Breed.
A “BREEDER” cares about the QUALITY of the Dobermans they breed. They research pedigrees and search for the “right” BLOODLINES to combine together. They are looking only for the very BEST that the Doberman Breed has to offer—because only in this way will the Doberman Breed continue to improve and the problems that are innately there be corrected.
A “BREEDER” should be familiar with the Dobermans in the pedigrees that they are combining and using to enhance their breeding “plan”. Because they are concerned about HEALTH PROBLEMS in the Doberman Breed, they test and screen and expect the other BREEDERS that they associate with and have business dealings with, also care and do the same.
REPUTABLE BREEDERS want what’s best for the Doberman Breed, and so they associate themselves with Organizations that seek to “promote, protect and improve” the Doberman such as the DOBERMAN PINSCHER CLUB OF AMERICA and other CHAPTER CLUBS that are associated with the DPCA. Many REPUTABLE BREEDERS are also associated with ALL BREED KENNEL CLUBS in their area. This shows that the Breeder is concerned about the over-all Dog Community, also.
TALK TO THE BREEDER at length. Ask about their AFFILIATION with the DOBERMAN PINSCHER CLUB OF AMERICA. It would be a good starting point that the Breeder you buy a puppy from belongs to the DPCA. The DPCA has a CODE OF ETHICS that it’s membership abides by concerning breeding, puppy sales and other matters related to the moral and ethical responsibility they have as BREEDERS who bring puppies into the world that they feel personally responsible for. Many DPCA members also belong to local Doberman Chapter Clubs—ASK THE BREEDER IF THEY BELONG TO THE DPCA OR A CHAPTER CLUB. If in doubt, contact the DPCA to inquire and check their MEMBERSHIP. This doesn’t GUARANTEE that every member is an exceptional BREEDER—but it does say that they care enough to pay their dues every year and take the oath to follow the CODE OF ETHICS in their dealings with their Dobermans and the PUBLIC as well as fellow members.
Ask about their LENGTH OF TIME in the Breed. Ask about their SUCCESS in the CONFORMATION, OBEDIENCE OR AGILITY VENUES. Ask how many CHAMPIONS they have bred and if the SIRE (father) and DAM (mother) of the puppies are CHAMPIONS. Ask to SEE the REGISTRATION CERTIFICATES of the DAM and the PUPPY REGISTRATION PAPERS (first step in permanent registration) for the puppies. If the REGISTRATION PAPERS are not available make sure you have the FULL name and REGISTRATION NUMBERS FOR BOTH SIRE AND DAM. WITHOUT THESE, YOU CANNOT “TRACK” THE REGISTRATION PROCESS AND CHECK ON YOUR PUPPY’S REGISTRATION. A reputable Breeder will have all these papers in order for you to see and examine. Make sure you also have a copy of the puppy’s “PEDIGREE”. The PEDIGREE is NOT the REGISTRATION of the puppy. It only tells you the lineage of the puppy—it’s parents (Sire & Dam), it’s grand parents, it’s great grand parents, and on back. Most breeders will give you a 4 or 5 generation PEDIGREE for your records.
People who are “BACKYARD BREEDERS” OR “BYBs” don’t care about all the showing and expense of truly promoting the Breed. They just basically want to make some money without have to invest their own time and “BLOOD, SWEAT & TEARS” into properly breeding and raising a litter of Dobermans. Most BYBs DON’T CROP the puppies ears. They usually sell them right after they are weaned and after their first shots so they don’t have the added expense and worry and work of cropping and taping a litter of puppies. EXAMINE the PEDIGREE closely and the REGISTRATION PAPERS closely. If the Sire and Dam and the Dobermans in the PEDIGREE are “CHAMPIONS” each name will have a CH. in front of the Registered name. An example would be: Ch. Red Boy’s Pretty Girl.
If the Dobermans in the Pedigree and on the Registration Papers have other working degrees, they will come after the name of the Doberman, such as: Ch. Red Boy’s Pretty Girl, CD, NA, TT
If the Pedigree and the Registration Papers don’t have the “CH.” or working titles such as “CD, CDX, NA” the Doberman is NOT a Champion and does NOT have working titles. LACK OF these titles is a “RED FLAG” and it may mean that the Breeder is simply not concerned with improving the Doberman Breed and is mainly concerned with making a “QUICK BUCK”. Not all Quality Dobermans necessarily have a title either in Conformation or in the Working venues. Some have the CH. and no working titles. Some have a working title but no CH. title. But when you see the pedigree FULL of dogs that have obviously been taken out and campaigned for their titles it says the breeder cares about these venues that enhance the testing of the dog’s abilities.
Don’t be fooled into thinking that some of the “Registry” letters in front of a Dobermans REGISTERED NAME is a “TITLE” of some kind. Unscrupulous breeders often put these in FRONT of the name of the Doberman because they are trying to fool the buyer into thinking it is the same as a CHAMPION bestowed by the AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB or the CANADIAN KENNEL CLUB!!”BEWARE”!! It will look like this: CKC, FCI Mr. I’m Lookin Good. The letters SEEM like they mean something impressive and good, but the breeder is just trying to make it appear that the dog is more than it is—which is probably just a pet from another “BYB”!!! SO, BE CAREFUL!! ASK QUESTIONS!! A successful Breeder should have MANY PHOTO’S of their Dobermans from the SHOW OR WORKING VENUES. If there are just a bunch of cute photos of “Susie” laying in the grass, or sleeping on the sofa—-“RED FLAG”. Breeding GOOD DOBERMANS is difficult, at best.
Contracts are encouraged by the DPCA CODE of ETHICS, because they spell out the terms of the sale of the puppy. It is clearly stated what each party is expected to abide by and there are no assumptions by either the buyer or seller. When you talk to a Breeder and they say they have a contract for the sale of their puppies, this is a good thing, as it is protection for both parties. Many “BYB” don’t worry or care what happens after the puppy is sold. They’ve got their “money” and “BUYER BEWARE” !
submitted by
Theresa Mullen
DPCA Public Education Committee
Definition of terms – *puppy farmer: person who breeds dogs as commercial livestock without effort applied to improving the breed *dog broker: person who acts as a middleman in the transaction of dog to buyer. He may buy the dog and resell it at a profit or may receive a commission *puppy mills: commercial dog breeding operations which may or may not keep dogs in humane conditions but who are focused on producing as many dogs as possible at as high a profit margin as possible without concerted effort toward turning out a quality product US puppy mill activity and importing by brokers reveals that*dog auction: run exactly like livestock auctions where high bidder takes the animal home An ongoing investigation of dog brokering, dog auctions, US puppy mill activity and importing by brokers reveals that we are facing a new challenge in our breed. There is increased activity in puppy farmers’ including all purebred dogs in their inventories of brood animals. We are seeing an increase also in smaller (one dog owners) using bitches who were sold with limited registrations as unsuitable breeding stock, using these bitches for breeding and selling the pups as unregistered.
Responsible breeders will provide a copy of an AKC registration certificate for the sire and dam of any pup offered for sale.
There’s also an increase in activity in importation by brokers. The imported dogs are sold without their owners having contact with the dogs’ breeders nor information on the dog’s familial background.. Registration of puppies by foreign parents may or may not be possible. Assurance of purebred status is questionable until the foreign pedigree of an import has undergone the scrutiny of the American Kennel Club. Make sure you’re getting a purebred dog by requiring proof that the parents of the dog are registered with the AKC on full privilege registrations or that the dog, itself, if imported, is registered with the AKC before you pay for it. If an imported dog is to be
registered with the AKC, this must be done by the importer. Dobermans are being offered at public auctions, events whose patrons are puppy farmers. These puppy farmers set up future suppliers for brokerages and auctions. Puppy farmers sell other puppy farmers who in turn sell to brokers who sell to pet stores who sell to buyers who have no contact with the producer of the pup and not knowledge of familial history of health.. Such producers do not know where their pups wind up and subsequently cannot follow up on the progeny of their programs. Their breeding decisions are based on factors unrelated to familial genetics because they cannot know the genetics without tracking the progeny of their programs. Responsible
breeders do not sell dogs to brokers or through agents or brokers to persons
unknown to the breeder of the dog. The public is discouraged from buying
dogs through brokers in such cases where they will have no contact with their pup’s breeder.
The puppymill industry has set up several registries to combat the challenges the AKC placed before them by instituting the frequently used sires program. Included are these undesirable registries:
FIC (federation of international canines)
CKC (continental kennel club) )
These acronyms are remarkably similar to the legitimate registries, FCI (Federation Cynologique Internationale) and CKC (Canadian Kennel Club). It is possible that imported puppies will be touted to be registered with the FIC. PLEASE pass word along to the public to beware of these puppymill registries.
We need to get the word out RESPONSIBLE BREEDERS PROVIDE COPIES OF American Kennel Club or Canadian Kennel Club REGISTRATION CERTIFICATES FOR ALL SIRES AND DAMS of pups offered for sale. This is to assure that the parents were registered with the AKC as breeding potential animals and that they are purebred.
To be registered with the AKC, ALL imported dogs MUST be registered by the importer. Do NOT be victimized by exploitive importers. REQUIRE AKC registration BEFORE spending money on any imported dog. The dog may not be purebred if it is not registered with the AKC.
TYPE 1
* Lay the animal on its side.
* Put one hand on its spine and the other hand on its belly.
* With the hand on belly , push inward and upward with quick short motions.
* Look in mouth for object and remove.
TYPE 2
* Lift the animal off the ground and hold it vertically (head up and spine against your chest.)
* With arms around belly push inward and upward with quick short motions.
* Check mouth for object and remove.
TYPE 3
* Kneel behind the standing animal.
* Place hands under belly just below the rib cage.
* Push inward and upward with quick,short motions.
* Check mouth and remove any object.
Lori H. Feldman, DVM
Henry J. Feldman, MA EMT-M
(c) 1996
Dr. Feldman is a Massachusetts and New York Licensed Veterinarian and a member of the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society. This document is primarliy aimed at EMS and Emergency Medical personel who may encounter animals in arrest.
Pet owners should consult their veterinarian for specific details on procedures outlined here.
AIRWAY
The first step in animal CPR, after determining non-responsiveness, is to obtain a patent airway.
You should not continue on, until this step has been achieved.
Carefully pull the tongue out of the animal’s mouth
WARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!!
Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck. WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists Attempt 2 rescue breaths, by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they go in with no problems continue to Breathing. If not, then reposition the neck and try again.
Visibly inspect the airway by looking into the mouth, and down the throat for foreign objects occluding the airway.
Unlike human-CPR, rescuers may reach into the airway and remove foreign objects that are visible
Proceed to the Heimlich maneuver
HEIMLICH
After unsuccessfully attempting to ventilate:
Turn the animal upside down, with its back against your chest
With both arms, give 5 sharp thrusts (bear hugs) to the abdomen. Perform each thrust as if it is the one that will expel the object
Stop, check to see if the object is visible in the airway, if so, remove it and give 2 mouth-nose rescue breaths. If the breaths do not go in, go back and repeat the thrusts.
Use gravity to help you expel the object
Do not proceed with CPR, even if the animal goes into cardiac arrest. You must clear the airway first.
BREATHING
After achieving a patent airway, one must determine whether the animal is breathing, and whether this breathing is effective:
Carefully pull the tongue out of the animal’s mouth WARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!!
Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck. WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists
Ventilate the animal by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they do go in
with ease go to Airway.
AIRWAY
Ventilate at 20 breaths per minute If supplemental Oxygen is available, and the animal is breathing on its own,
use a high-flow blowby. WARNING: Do not attempt to intubate the animal, without prior training, and properly sized ET tubes.
Proceed to Circulation, while continuing respiratory support as necessary.
CIRCULATION
This is the final step of CPR and should only be initiated after the airway and breathing steps have been completed:
Make sure that there are no major (pooling/spurting blood) points of bleeding. Control as necessary
Lay the animal on its right side
Locate your hands where its left elbow touches the chest. Approximately the middle of the rib-cage
Compress the chest 15 times followed by 2 rescue breaths (3 compressions every 2 seconds) Compress
1/2″ – small dogs
1″ – medium dogs <
1.5″ – large dogs
Repeat as necessary
Important:
Animals do not have palpable carotid pulses. You can only obtain a femoral pulse in the inguinal crease.
(Palpate carefully on a conscious dog!)
During an emergency it is very important that you remain calm. Animals can sense your unease, but cannot understand what is happening and you cannot verbally tell them. Your body language is very important. Be calm, yet deliberate in your actions. When you determine that you either have corrected the life-threatening problem, or are unable to stabilize the animal, you should transport to the nearest emergency veterinary hospital.
Notify your emergency clinic that you are coming in with a dog in respiratory arrest with a foreign body airway obstruction and/or cardiac arrest.
Give them the following information via phone if possible:
Many long time owners and breeders have seen first hand how quickly bloat can overcome their Dobermans.
This “Bloat Kit” with directions is intended for those who are familiar with bloat and it’s emergency treatment.
This is NOT intended for the unexperienced pet owner and is NOT to be used without veterinary guidance.
BLOAT FIRST AID
The procedures in this document should be used to provide first aid only to dogs in a bloat condition. They are not intended to replace prompt, professional treatment by a qualified veterinarian. Please read and understand these instructions completely before attempting the first aid procedures described herein.
Some symptoms may be anxiety, evidence of abdominal fullness after meals, heavy salivating, whining, pacing, getting up and lying down, stretching, looking at abdomen, unproductive attempts to vomit, labored breathing, disinterest in food, and stilted gait. Severe symptoms, such as dark red, blue, grey or white gums, a rapid heartbeat and a weak pulse are normally followed by prostration and death.
Recommended Bloat Kit Contents:
*Instructions for use
*Stethoscope
*Rolls of tape (3 rolls, 1 in. x 10 yd)
*Stomach tube (2) (different diameters). 5 ft. length bevelled at one end, with two holes drilled in tube 2 & 3 inches up from the bevelled end. Pre-measured and marked for each Doberman in the household
*14 gauge or larger needles (2) (1 1/2″ to 3″ length)
*K. Y. jelly
*Gas absorbent (Digel, GasEase, etc)
BLOAT PHASES, SYMPTOMS AND RECOMMENDED ACTIONS PHASE 1: SYMPTOMS: Pacing, restlessness, panting and salivating, unproductive attempts to vomit (every 10-20 minutes). Abdomen exhibits fullness and beginning to enlarge. ACTIONS:
Call Veterinarian to advise of bloat case enroute. Transport dog to Veterinarian immediately. PHASE 2 SYMPTOMS: Very restless, whining, panting continuously, heavy salivating. Unproductive attempts to vomit (every 2-3 minutes), Dark red gumS, High heart rate (80 to 100 BPM). Abdomen is enlarged and tight, emits hollow sound when thumped. ACTIONS:
Apply first aid if Veterinarian care is more than 10 minutes away. Then, transport dog to Veterinarian immediately. PHASE 3 SYMPTOMS: Gums are white or blue Dog unable to stand or has a spread-legged, shaky stance. Abdomen is very enlarged. Extremely high heart rate (100 BPM or greater)and weak pulse. ACTIONS:
Death is imminent! Apply first aid immediately. Transport dog to Veterinarian as soon as possible (even while applying first aid if possible).
Recommend a copy of this table be available as a quick, ready reference wherever Dobermans are located (home, kennel, RV, van, etc).
Listen to the dog’s heartbeat using a stethoscope if possible. If a stethoscope is not available, use your ears and eyes. The heartbeat can be best heard on the left side of the dog’s chest just behind the elbow and is strong enough to be visible on the chest wall . A normal heartbeat is irregular when the dog is resting and often consists of a double beat (thump…thump…thump-thump…thump…thump, etc). Using a timepiece with a second hand, count the number of heartbeats for 10 seconds. Multiply the number of heartbeats x 6 to find the Beats Per Minute (BPM) (12 beats x 6 = 72 BPM, etc.). The normal heart rate/pulse rate of a large breed dog is 60-80 BPM. Take the pulse rate of the dog by pressing your fingers inside the dog’s rear leg just below where it joins the body. At this location, you can feel a cord-like structure called the Femoral Artery. Count the pulses for a ten second period and multiply by six to determine the rate of the dog’s pulse (same procedure as discussed above). You can also observe the strength of the pulse at this location.
When your dog is showing any of the bloat symptoms you should:
Attempt to determine the bloat phase he may be in.
Call your veterinarian, discuss symptoms and ask for guidance.
*If you conclude your dog is in phase 1 bloat and you can reach your veterinarian within 30 minutes, do not apply first aid procedures. Go directly to the veterinarian.
* If you conclude your dog is in phase 2 bloat and you cannot reach your veterinarian within 10 minutes you should attempt to insert a stomach tube before going to the veterinarian.
*For phase 3 bloat, if you cannot reach your veterinarian within 10 minutes apply first aid immediately. Attempt to insert a stomach tube. If this is not acomplished quickly, you should use Trocharization procedures to relieve the gas pressure! Death is imminent!
DOGS MAY GO TO PHASE 3 BLOAT WITHOUT SEEMINGLY GOING THROUGH PHASES 1 OR 2. PHASE 3 CAN BE FATAL IN MINUTES. BE ALERT!
PROCEDURE
Pre-measure and mark each stomach tube for each Doberman in the household. To do this, place the dog in a sit position. Measure the stomach tube on the outside of the dog from the front of the mouth to the last rib and mark the tube at the front of the mouth with a piece of tape
Remove an eighteen inch strip of tape from the tape roll. Insert the roll of tape in the dog’s mouth behind the front teeth. Ensure the tape roll hole is pointed toward the dog’s front and rear. Using the strip of removed tape, tightly bind the dog’s muzzle with the roll of tape in position.
Lubricate the bevelled end of the stomach tube with K. Y. jelly (be careful not to plug up the tube holes with the jelly).
Carefully insert the tube into the dog’s mouth through the hole in the tape roll . Some resistance will be felt when the tube reaches the dog’s throat. However, the dog will start to swallow as you push the tube deeper into the throat and the tube should enter the esophagus with little resistance. It the dog does not swallow the tube or the tube seems stuck, gently move the tube back and forth until it enters the esophagus.
Once the tube is in the esophagus, gently blow through the tube as you advance it toward the stomach.
This will expand the esophagus and allow the tube to pass more easily.
The tube may encounter a resistance when it reaches the stomach because of muscle spasms in the stomach valve or twisting of the stomach (torsion). If this happens, blow more strongly through the tube while turning the tube in a clockwise direction. If the tube does not enter the stomach, continue blowing and carefully turn the tube back and forth. You will feel a quick, forward movement of the tube when it enters the stomach.
Caution! Do not insert the tube too far into the stomach and pierce the stomach wall. Immediately remove the tube from your mouth. Gas will be expelled through the tube as it enters the stomach. Fluids will follow the gas.
After the gas and fluids stop, you should squeeze the dog’s abdomen to remove as much of the remaining stomach contents as possible. To do this, stand over the dog facing the same direction as the dog. Grasp the dog with locked wrists around the abdomen and squeeze firmly. Continue to remove the stomach contents for five/ten minutes.
Cover the end of the tube with your thumb and carefully remove the tube from the dog. Then, transport the dog to the veterinarian immediately.
If you are unsuccessful in inserting the tube into the stomach after five minutes, it is probably not possible to pass a stomach tube.
If you are unable to pass a stomach tube and the dog displays phase 3 bloat symptoms, you have a very short time to act to save the dog’s life. By this time, the dog will normally be gasping for air and unable to stand. The abdomen will be very distended and sound like a drum when thumped. The heart rate will be over 100 BPM and the gums will be white, blue or grey.
Trocharization must take place immediately. This action can save your dog’s life. The veterinarian will appreciate the fact that you took the Trocharization action and brought in a dog that has a chance of recovery.
Locate the last rib on the dog’s left side. The stomach is located on the left side of the dog’s abdomen under the last few ribs (you will not have any problem finding the stomach because it will be very distended).
Remove the cap from the 14 gauge needle.
Firmly grasp the blunt end of the needle and with a sharp motion, stab the needle into the dog’s stomach on the left side behind the last rib (figure 7). Gas will be expelled immediately through the needle. Do not be concerned about hurting the dog because he is already in such intense pain from the bloat and torsion he will not notice the pain from the needle.
Squeeze the abdomen then remove the needle. Immediately transport to a veterinarian.
By Carrie Gustavson
Information Specialist
University of Illinois
College of Veterinary Medicine
People can pig out on Halloween goodies,
or anything else for that matter, without
it coming back to haunt them. But, for
some dogs who overindulge, even on plain old food and water, their stomach may inflate like a balloon and twist on itself
— a canine horror story.
Food is sometimes the cause of a dilated stomach, but often a dog’s stomach will
mysteriously dilate, or bloat, for no known reason. Either way, bloat is a medical
emergency, and the puffed-up pooch will need veterinary help as soon as possible.
Bloating and twisting of a dog’s stomach is a serious condition veterinarians call GASTRIC DILATION VOLVULUS
or GDV.
Overeating, especially in predisposed breeds, may cause GDV,
but often there is no underlying cause, making this disease one that is baffling to
veterinarians and to owners alike. “A dog with GDV will have a distended abdomen and
may appear restless and depressed and have dry heaves,” says Dr. Cathy Greenfield, small
animal surgeon at the University of Illinois Veterinary Teaching Hospital in Urbana. “A
common history is that he may have just eaten or drunk a large amount of food or water.
But most of the time there is no underlying cause for GDV.”
While the exact cause of GDV is unknown, a dog’s anatomy is thought to play a significant
role. Since the stomach of a dog is securely fixed only at one spot near the top, when the
stomach is full or dilated, it can easily rotate on that one fixed axis. If that happens, not only
is the stomach distension painful, but the blood vessels that feed the stomach are kinked
and stretched as the stomach twists. With reduced circulation to the stomach, the lining of
the stomach can die or be damaged enough to allow bacteria and toxins to enter the
bloodstream.
In addition, the distended stomach can put pressure on major veins, blocking blood flow
back to the heart. Without the normal blood flow to the heart, blood pressure will plunge
and a dog can easily go into shock.
A dog’s breed and age also play a role in GDV. “Deep-chested, large breeds, such as
Weimaraners, Doberman pinschers, German shepherds, standard poodles, Great Danes,
Saint Bernards, Irish setters, and Gordon setters, are affected most commonly. Shar-peis,
basset hounds, and springer spaniels are the medium-size breeds that may be predisposed,”
says Dr. Greenfield. “GDV can occur in any age dog, but more commonly it occurs in
middle-aged to older dogs.”
With all the complications associated with bloat, it’s not surprising that mortality rates are
very high with this disease. “With GDV, owners need to get the dog to a veterinarian
immediately. Successful emergency treatment involves relieving the pressure within the
stomach and treatment for shock. In most cases, treatment will also involve emergency
surgery to untwist the stomach and “tack” it in place to prevent future reoccurrence of the
stomach twisting,” says Dr. Greenfield.
The surgical procedure for GDV is called a gastropexy. In it, the stomach is attached to the
body wall to prevent twisting, or future episodes of volvulus. “Recurrent volvulus can be
pretty effectively managed with gastropexy, but dilatation may still occur. Owners should be
vigilant in observing their dog for any signs of trouble,” says Dr. Greenfield.
Especially if your dog is a breed that is prone to GDV, feed smaller meals more often and
limit the amount of water consumed after exercise. Talk to your local small animal
veterinarian for more information about GDV
Your animal may become poisoned in spite of your best efforts to prevent it. BE PREPARED!
You should keep the telephone numbers for your veterinarian, ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center and a local emergency veterinary service in a convenient location.
If you suspect that your pet has been exposed to a poison, it is important not to panic
In the event that you need to take your animal to your local veterinarian, be sure to take with you any product container. Also bring any material your pet may have vomited or chewed, collected in a zip-lock bag.
Here are some potential items that can injure your dog:
AUTOMOTIVE SUPPLIES
Automotive products such as gasoline, oil and antifreeze should be stored in areas that are inaccessible to your pets. Propylene glycol is a safer form of antifreeze. Sierra brand antifreeze contains propylene glycol and is recommended to use in pet households. Less than one tablespoon can be lethal to a 20 pound dog.
FLEA PRODUCTS
Before buying a flea product, consult your veterinarian, especially when treating sick, debilitated or pregnant pets. Read all of the information on the label before using a product on your pet or in your home.
PLANTS
Be aware of the plants you have in your home and yard. The ingestion of azalea, oleander, castor bean, sago palm, Easter lily or yew plant material by an animal can be fatal.
CLEANING SUPPLIES
Never allow your pets to have access to the areas in which cleaning agents are being used or stored. Cleaning agents have a variety of properties; some may only cause mild stomach upset, but others can cause severe burns of the tongue, mouth and stomach.
PESTICIDES
When using rat, mouse, snail or slug baits, or ant or roach traps, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your companion animals. Most baits contain ingredients that can attract your pets. Make sure your pets do not go on lawns or in gardens treated with fertilizers, herbicides or insecticides until they have dried completely. Always store such products in areas that are inaccessible
to your companion animals.
MEDICATIONS
Never give your companion animals medication unless you are directed to do so by a veterinarian. Many medications that are safe for humans can be deadly for animals. TYLENOL is toxic to dogs! Keep all drugs out of your pets’ reach, preferably in closed cabinets. Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, vitamins and diet pills are all examples of human medications that can be lethal to animals, even in small doses. For example, one 200mg ibuprofen tablet could cause stomach ulcers in a small dog, and as few as 6 could cause kidney failure.
HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS
Many common household items can be lethal to animals. Mothballs, potpourri oils, coffee grounds, homemade play dough, fabric softener sheets, dishwashing detergent, batteries, cigarettes, alcoholic drinks and hand and foot warmers are potentially toxic.
compiled by
Cathy Kendrick
DPCA Public Education Committee
Dog owners can treat minor injuries for their pets if they have the appropriate remedies, tools, and equipment available. The following items were included in a first aid kit that the Cincinnati Veterinary Medical Association gave to police dog handlers at a recent workshop. A home first aid kit needs many of the same items.
· Gauze sponges — 50 four-by-four inch sponges, two per envelope
· Triple antibiotic ointment
· Rubbing alcohol
· Ear syringe — two ounce capacity
· Ace self-adhering athletic bandage –three-inch width
· White petroleum jelly (Vaseline or similar)
· Eye wash
· Sterile, non-adherent pads
· Pepto Bismol tablets
· Generic Benadryl capsules — 25mg, for allergies
· Hydrocortisone Ointment – one percent
· Sterile stretch gauze bandage — three inches by four yards
· Buffered aspirin
· Dermicil hypoallergenic cloth tape one inch by 10 yards
· Hydrogen peroxide
· Kaopectate tablets maximum strength
· Bandage scissors
· Custom splints
· Vet Rap bandage
Other suggested items were:
· Blanket
· Tweezers
· Muzzle
· Hemostats
· Rectal thermometer
· Ziplock bags
· Paperwork, including the dog’s health record, medications, local and national poison control numbers, regular veterinary clinic hours and telephone numbers, and emergency clinic hours and telephone number.
· Bleeding: apply direct pressure with a
clean cloth.
· Heatstroke: move your pet into the shade
or indoors, and hose them down with cool water. Then place towels soaked with cold water over your pet, and ice packs in the armpits, along the belly, or between the
legs.
· Fractures: restrict movement, wrap or
splint the limb, and cover any open wounds with a clean cloth.
· Suspected poison ingestion: bring the container/label of the poison you suspect or know your pet ingested to your vet.
· Eye trauma: prevent further trauma by stopping your pet from
pawing at or rubbing a painful eye. If you have an E-collar, place it around your pet€™s neck. If the eye is
protruding from the socket, place a moist clean cloth over the eye.
· Shock: wrap your pet in a blanket to conserve body heat, loosen or remove any collar, and clear the mouth of any
fluid or food.
For all emergencies, always seek veterinary assistance immediately.
An emergency is easier to prevent than to treat; here are a few tips to help safeguard your Doberman.:
· Keep all dangerous substances in a pet-proof cupboard
· Pick up any pills or capsules that fall to the floor
· Be aware of your Doberman when opening an outside door and keep them on a leash when out of a fenced-in yard.
· Ask your local vet what plants are toxic in your local area, and be sure you have none in your house or yard.
· Always transport your Doberman in a kennel.
· If you know your animal has a storm phobia, keep them indoors if bad weather is likely.
· The benefit of annual check-ups with your vet to identify any major health problems early on before they
become life-threatening should not be underestimated.
compiled by
Cathy Kendrick
DPCA Public Education Committee
When faced with a pet emergency, stay calm and do not panic. Take your pet to your veterinarian or a 24 hour emergency animal hospital as quickly as possible. Whenever possible, call ahead to the vet so they can prepare for your arrival. Keep the phone number of your vet, or the nearest 24 hour emergency clinic near the phone so you can save time. When you call a veterinary clinic be as descriptive as possible when trying to explain the symptoms displayed by your pet.
THIS INFORMATION IS NOT INTENDED TO SERVE AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR DIRECT VETERINARY DIAGNOSIS AND CARE.
The point of this piece is that there are two issues here to be explained. The first topic of “REPRODUCTION” involves the mating or coming together of a male and a female to create new life—in the context of our article—puppies. There is no qualifications or standards imposed on this “act”, as ANY male and female Doberman CAN be mated/bred to have a litter of puppies. The “bigger” question is *WHY*??
PRODUCING MORE PUPPIES in this critical time, the 21st CENTURY, where there are thousands of Dobermans in Shelters, Humane Societies and Rescues all over the Country seems a most inhumane and cruel thing to do. Having a litter of puppies should NEVER be to—-MAKE SOME SPENDING MONEY—LET THE “KIDS SEE HOW THE “BIRDS & BEES” OPERATE—-BECAUSE PUPPIES ARE SO CUTE—-BECAUSE ALL MY FRIENDS WANT ONE—because the result is that there are tiny, cute, innocent Doberman puppies being put to sleep EVERY DAY in this Country. This is not to mention the young adults, adults and seniors that are DUMPED. Some end up in POUNDS and on the STREETS to suffer, get maimed or abused.
**EVERY DOBERMAN PET PUPPY** SHOULD BE **SPAYED OR NEUTERED**—-WITHOUT EXCEPTION!
BREEDING BETTER DOBERMANS is the “goal” of *reputable, conscientious and careful* breeders that seek to breed for the “IDEAL” Doberman as described in the DOBERMAN STANDARD as approved by the DPCA and the American Kennel Club. Below is the site to access the “THE DOBERMAN STANDARD”.
The “Standard” describes HOW the Doberman should look physically, and it describes HOW the Doberman should act, temperament wise. Reputable breeders pay attention to HEALTH PROBLEMS and TEST for them. Hip Dysplasia, vWD, Thyroid, Cardiac Abnormalities and other concerns are *tested for* and screened for their appearance.
ONLY THE **VERY SUPERIOR SPECIMENS** of the Breed should be allowed to reproduce. We have many venues to *test* for PHYSICAL AND MENTAL QUALITIES. The prospective breeding stock can compete in the CONFORMATION venue for adherence to the “STANDARD” and be awarded CHAMPIONSHIP points, leading to an eventual CHAMPION title if good enough.
In the OBEDIENCE venue, the Doberman will be exhibited to show its ability to work closely with the owner/trainer to follow commands they have been trained to recognize, and be awarded titles that reward the various levels of achievement in the Dobermans trainability and mental intellect, such as COMPANION DOG, COMPANION DOG EXCELLENT AND HIGHER.
In the AGILITY venue, where Dobermans are taught to use their inborn talents of quickness, working ability and trainability to maneuver a designed course of obstacles to test their prowess, the Doberman is awarded titles that show the various levels of achievement such as NOVICE AGILITY AND MASTER AGILITY and higher. And many others that showcase the Dobermans skills, appearance and working abilities.
ONLY THE VERY SUPERIOR SPECIMENS OF DOBERMANS SHOULD BE BRED! ALL **PETS** SHOULD BE SPAYED OR NEUTERED FOR THEIR HEALTH AND THE BREEDS.
For more information on breeding and reproduction, visit the DPCA Breeders Education Committee
If you’re choosing a puppy from a litter, begin by evaluating the litter as a whole. If most of the puppies run away from you, don’t buy one. Healthy puppies should be happy and playful. They might nibble at your shoes or scamper toward you. If the litter is behaving normally, look at each of the puppies individually. Cluck your tongue and jingle your car keys and watch how the puppies react. Don’t select the shyest puppy. Shy puppies almost always grow up to be shy adults. Don’t select the boldest puppy either. A middle- of-the-road puppy almost always makes the best pet. Never adopt a puppy unless you’re sure it’s healthy. Healthy puppies shouldn’t cough, sneeze, or wheeze. Inspect the puppy’s coat and its eyes, ears, dewclaws, and tail.