Working Dog Sport/schutzhund

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

The American Kennel Club has a new program called Working Dog Sport, modeled after the very old sport of Schutzhund.

This statement is from the AKC web site: “The Working Dog Sport is a competitive AKC Performance Event designed to demonstrate the progress that has been made in breeding for the physical and mental abilities necessary for performing scent and protection work, while maintaining a high level of control and a strong degree of obedience.”

AKC has been diametrically opposed to any activity involving biting until now. The recent shift in thinking might be attributed to several things: (I was not a part of the development of the program within AKC, so I can only make an educated guess). The early published reports about the AKC WDS program mention a post 9/11 commitment to the working dogs who serve mankind. Well thank goodness AKC sees the importance of service dogs of all disciplines, and honors their courage and skill.

Another possible driving force in the development of the WDS program could relate to the positions of other countries, their registries, and their dog sport activities. AKC is the registry in the US which is recognized by the Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI). The breeds of working heritage were put at odds with their countries of origin because of the AKC´s stance on biting. I place no fault on the AKC for this position. The United States of America is a very different place than Germany, Belgium, or any other country. Our legal system and our rights and freedoms, create complicated situations and liabilities.

Geography and politics aside, the “new” Working Dog Sport program is modeled after Schutzhund, which is known as the triathalon of dog sports. In order to earn a title at each of the three levels, dog and handler must pass tracking, obedience and protection – all on the same day. The difficulty increases with each level. The track is longer and older; the obedience phase adds more exercises; and the protection phase requires more control and intensity, and adds more exercises. It requires a huge time commitment from the handler, and great deal of drive and willingness from the dog. Most participants find the sport addictive, so the commitment is not a problem.

In order to compete, each dog must first earn a Begleithund (Bh). In WDS, this test is referred to as the Temperament Test. It is also known as the traffic-safe companion. Dogs must be 15 months old and are required to heel on and off-lead, under gun-fire, and through a group. The test also requires a sit in motion, and a down in motion with a recall. The temperament portion of the test can involve many things, all at the judge´s discretion. Generally, the dog and handler walk down a road while being passed by a jogger, a bicyclist and a car honking its horn. Another element is the dog being tethered to a post with the handler out of sight, while another dog and handler walk past. Judges will always put the dog and handler in a tight crowd and observe the dog´s reactions. The judge may ask the handler to have the dog do a sit, down and possibly a recall out of the crowd. Judges may be somewhat lenient with precision in the Bh, but the dog´s temperament is of the utmost importance.

The Philosophy of the three phases

Tracking: An ideal performance in Schutzhund tracking is one where the dog puts his nose deep into the track, works slowly and methodically, and with great intensity.  Tracking is not so much about scent as it is the Zen of quiet, strong obedience to the track.

Obedience:  Precision is not as coveted as enthusiasm.  Above all, dogs must be happy working.  The Schutzhund trainer will make a complete fool of himself, and often endure many injuries along the road to creating the desired performance.  The basic pattern is the same from Bh to Sch3, with each level becoming increasingly more difficult.  Teams work in pairs, with one doing the honor down on the edge of the field while the other works.

Protection: Intensity and control must be balanced.  The dog must be committed to the tasks, and he must also be enthusiastic in them.  However, he must have the control to play by the rules.  This is the phase that most dogs enjoy more.  For the dog to have high scores in protection, his grip must be full, firm, and calm.  When he engages the helper´s arm in the sleeve, his mouth should maintain the same position until he is told to release.  This phase tests control and the working relationship of dog and handler.  Dogs are tremendously empowered and it can be extremely difficult for them to remain biddable to their handlers.

The requirements at each level:

Sch1/WDS1

The dog must be at least 18 months old to compete at this level.

Tracking – The track is laid by the handler.  There are 2 articles, 3 legs, and 2 turns.  Each leg of the track is at least 100 paces long.  The turns are 90 degrees.  The articles are no larger than 1 inch by 4 inches, and must be approved by the judge.  The terrain may be dirt or grass.   The track is aged 20 to 45 minutes.  After laying the track, the handler must prepare his dog and equipment to report in to the judge.  The judge will assess the dog´s temperament, check his tattoo, and ensure that the tracking line is 33 feet long.

Obedience – The Obedience phase involves heeling, gunfire, group, sit in motion, down in motion with recall, retrieve on the flat, retrieve of the high jump, retrieve over the scaling wall, send away, and an honor down.  At the 1 level, all retrieves are done with the same dumbbell.

Protection – The protection phase includes a search two blinds (5 and 6), a hold and bark, a call out or a pick up from the blind, an escape bite with the dog being attacked by the helper after the out, a transport to the judge, and a courage test followed by an out and a transport to the judge.

Sch2/WDS2

The dog must be at least 19 months old to compete at this level.

Tracking – The track is laid by a tracklayer (not the handler) and is a minimum of 400 paces long.  It has 3 legs and 2 corners.  The track is aged 30 to 60 minutes.  There are 2 articles.

Obedience – The basic heeling pattern remains the same.  The added exercise in this level is the stand out of motion.  It is performed from a walk.  The retrieve on the flat has a heavier dumbbell.  The other retrieves remain the same.  The last exercise is the send away.

Protection – Four blinds are searched (3, 4, 5 & 6) prior to the hold and bark.  The handler must call the dog out of the blind prior to the escape.  The protection phase is very similar to the Sch1/WDS1, with the addition of transport from behind (back transport).  The dog is attacked by the helper from the back transport.  The handler commands the dog to out, and then handler, dog and helper perfo
rm a side transport to the judge before going down the field for the courage test.  The handler outs his dog after the engagement with the helper and the dog should continue to guard the helper until the handler arrives for the transport to the judge

Sch3/WDS3

The dog must be at least 20 months old to compete at this level.

Tracking – The schutzhund 3 track is laid by a tracklayer (not the handler), and is a minimum of 600 paces long.  There are 5 legs and 4 corners.  The track is aged 60 to 90 minutes, and there are 3 articles.

Obedience – The basic pattern remains the same.  A running down with recall is added, and a running stand out of motion replaces the walking stand out of motion.  The retrieve on the flat is performed with the larger, heavier dumbbell, while the other retrieves remain the same.  The last exercise is the send away.

Protection – All six blinds are searched prior to the hold and bark.  The dog must be called out of the blind by the handler prior to the escape.  There is a slightly longer back transport, with a re-attack of the dog by the helper after the out.  The dog is also attacked after the out on the courage test.  Again, the handler outs the dog and comes to the dog and helper to perform the transport to the judge.

If you have a chance, go watch a trial.  A WDS trial will be held again next month at the GSDCA National.  Even without a helper to prepare you for the protection phase, there are ways to become involved in the sport.  The Bh is a fun and easy way to participate.  You can also earn individual phase titles (example:  Tracking 1, Obedience 1, etc.).  You and your dog will have a great time, and develop a stronger relationship.

For more information, check out the following websites:

http://www.germanshepherddog.com

http://www.schaeferhunde.de

http://www.gsdca-wda.org

Linda Booker is a contributing writer for The German Shepherd by Design. She can be reached at legatogsd@hotmail.com.

Obedience Competition Prospect: What To Look For

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

Written and submitted by Irene Quesnoy © (4/30/02)

Marj Brooks asked me to write an article on my thoughts on puppy testing as it relates to the selection of a competition obedience prospect. Rather than regurgitate what has already been written, I would suggest you buy a great book on puppy testing by Suzanne Clothier, Understanding Puppy Testing. It describes each test, how it should be applied, the purpose of each test, what to watch for, and how to evaluate the results.

Testing the Individual Puppy

It is important for the puppies to be tested on an empty stomach, in a place they have never been before, and by a stranger who does not appear frightening to the puppies.

Suzanne Clothier in her book, emphasizes the importance of selling the right puppy to the right buyer. I feel prospective buyers should NOT be present at the evaluation. It can be very difficult to convince a buyer that a certain puppy is not for him even though you as the breeder know better. Suzanne explains it best:

“One of the agreements I have with all my prospective puppy buyers is that I will not sell them a puppy unless I have one whose behavior and puppy test results match their criteria. Occasionally, when a buyer has a very specific criteria, such as wanting a dog who can handle a highly competitive obedience career, this has meant waiting for another litter. While disappointing at times, my insistence on trying to match the correct puppy with the buyer has paid off. My puppies usually get homes who appreciate their qualities, and buyers get the dog they wanted.” (P. 9-Understanding Puppy Testing)

I totally agree with Suzanne that it is important for the prospective buyers to state IN WRITING what characteristics they want in their puppy – what they want to live with and the temperament they would be willing to put their time and effort into. I would also require the buyers to assess their own strengths and weaknesses in terms of their energy level, patience, and time to spend training. I want them to express a realistic set of goals for the puppy. If buyers are not willing to do this, you need to think again about how serious they are in making a long term commitment to this puppy.

In evaluating the individual puppies, you also need to take into consideration the raising of the litter. Puppies in a litter that has had the advantage of interaction with people on a regular basis by their seventh week will tend to be more attracted to the tester. Puppies who have been exposed to many interesting situations such as mini-agility equipment and challenging objects in their lives will tend to be more tolerant of a stressful situation presented to them by a stranger.

I feel the buyer should also be familiar with the breed standard, as he needs to know what characteristics are expected of the breed he is selecting. What you might expect in a litter of Golden Retrievers is not what you are necessarily looking for in a litter of Dobermans out of SchH parents.

I also agree with Suzanne that no one test is sufficient to evaluate a puppy. Unfortunately many buyers do make their choice on the basis of a single test. Just as humans can have a bad day, a puppy can be not feeling up to his normal self on the day of the test. He may not feel well, may have just been fed, may have had a recent inoculation, or be under medication, or have had an unsettling experience just prior to the test. If any of these things has occurred, the test results may not be valid. You may have to return on another day. I like to test three different times and in different locations if possible.

I know from experience that conformation is important. A puppy needs to be structurally correct to be able to heel well, sit correctly and maintain the sit, and jump in the more advanced work or in the agility venue.  Gerianne Darnell, the co-author of Competition Obedience Training for the Small Dog states that when she looks for a competitive obedience prospect, she looks for a group winner. Not an easy task in that group of dogs where litters are small!

I know that many people believe that if a dog does not work out in the breed ring, it can always do obedience. Yes, it can if it is physically and mentally fit, but in order to have a reliable competition dog, you need physical as well as mental stability. If your Doberman has more rear angulation than front, you will get crabbing and pacing in the heeling. This can get you an obedience degree, but it looks ugly! In addition, a dog with a weak rear will have more trouble jumping than one with a well muscled rear that can drive on the take off. And we’re not even down to poor hips yet! While Dobermans with a longer back can move well, I prefer a more compact dog. I also prefer a lighter boned one that is usually more agile and light on its feet. A weight of 55 pounds coming down over a jump is easier on a dog than coming down with 65 pounds. As for a gender preference, I tend to prefer the bitches, as they are usually more agile. However, I feel a great deal depends upon the individual dog. I have had dogs that were far more obedient and dependable than the bitches, but I have also had some “butt-heads.” I think here you have to have had enough experience with a variety of dogs to be able to “see” what you want in a puppy.

The puppy I look at twice has a pleasant expression and a strong looking head – not snipey or skully. I like a lighter boned but square puppy and one that moves well on the ground. I tend to gravitate toward the red bitches. I prefer a darker red coat to the lighter one. When I watch the puppy, I want to see one that is active and inquisitive. I love the puppy that looks at me a great deal of the time. This may not happen the first time the puppies are tested, but it should happened ultimately. I like a puppy that investigates its surroundings, not something that is rated high on the official puppy test.  Yet this is natural for a canine to investigate his surroundings. You as the tester are a stranger. The puppy will go to whatever has more value for him. Unless the puppy is deliberately avoiding me, I would not fault the one that said I was less interesting than that bush over there with all the great smells.

I also like the adventuresome puppy -the one that goes into the tunnel all by itself, and checks out the things set out for it to encounter as Marj Brooks does for her puppies. The more the puppy experiences during its formative weeks, the more easily it will adjust to the many different things it will meet later in its life.

I haven’t made up my mind on the sound sensitive test. I think that’s a bit rough on the young puppy as it is explained in the official test. I feel the puppy adjusts to many strange sounds and I do not like to frighten it so early. I would pick a strange sound (a rattling can) rather than a loud one (hitting the pan with a spoon).

Rather than the rolling the puppy over or the suspended tests, I prefer to see how well the puppy takes to my handling of its ears, feet, back, mouth, etc. More than the puppy’s first reaction, I am more interested in how he bounces back after I have done it once.

I like a playful puppy, one that will pounce on the ball or crumpled up paper, one that will play with my hand, attack my shoe laces, and in general have fun with me. Sometimes I see this spark in a puppy who at that time is too intimidated by the strange surroundings or perhaps its litter mates. That is the puppy I like to take aside, and play with a bit m
ore to see if I can draw it out.

I can see some merit in the pain tolerance test. While we do not use pain to train in obedience, there is collar pressure at times. The dog that is very sensitive to toe pressure could well have a problem in training. That combined with one that is very sound sensitive even to the mild sounds and perhaps also avoids a stranger markedly, is definitely not a good obedience prospect.

I would also avoid the litter “bully.” Although this does not show up at first contact with the litter, subsequent observations can detect the “boss.”  Having to prove your leadership constantly to this one can dissolve a good relationship and drain obedience of all the fun it can be.

So what am I looking for in a competition obedience prospect? In short, one that has physical and mental soundness. One that wants to give me eye contact and be with me until something really exciting comes along. One that is willing to play the many games we teach in obedience. One that loves food and toys and has a good prey drive. But one that is reasonable and not wanting to control me. For the first time Doberman owner, I would suggest a bitch, as they are smaller and tend to be easier to handle.

The Buyer´s Temperament Test

As a prospective buyer you will not have the opportunity to do a full fledged test or you may not even be present when the litter is tested. However, you can look for certain characteristic and obtain sufficient information to at least narrow down your choice. Let me put myself in your shoes and pretend I am looking for a decent competition obedience prospect in a given litter. I will outline what I would do in preparation for looking at litters and selecting a puppy. You can adjust the list to fit your criteria.

1. Prior to looking at the litter, I inquire about the pedigree and the working titles on the sire and dam of the litter as well as the health testing done on them. While no titles would not rule out a prospect, it would certainly indicate that an effort had been made to perpetuate the temperament and health I wanted in the puppy.

2. I WRITE a list of the characteristics I want in the puppy for a competition obedience Doberman. Here is my list:

Physical:

Balanced structurally
Moves well
Head and expression is pleasing and intelligent
Coat is healthy looking
Feet are tight
Pasterns are strong
Body is compact, back is short

Mental:

Alert
Active but not hectic
Curious to investigate its surroundings and objects in it
Friendly-comes to me readily
Makes eye contact with me
Willing to play with me
Has strong prey/chase drive
Willing to let me touch paws and run hand down back
Recovers from sound test (coke can with pebbles in it or a coke can in a 2 LB coffee can.
Handles a strange situation-umbrella opened slowly and pointed away from puppy and locked in open position
Persistent-keeps trying to get treat under plastic tub
Problem solving ability- continues playing with small version of the Buster Cube

3. I ask to see the sire and dam at very least look carefully at the dam in her own surroundings.

4. I want to see the pups as they interact with each other and with other people.

5. I have already decided on the sex and perhaps the color of the puppy I am seeking, so I separate these and look only at the prospects that are in that category. I am now down to my short list and now compare these puppies with my list of characteristics above. If there are a few puppies that I think are prospects, I work with them individually with a series of some of the short tests. Keep in mind that I am looking for a dog with a personality that I am willing to work with. You may have totally different characteristics and temperament in mind. What is important is that you choose the puppy that best fits what you have included in your list. I would also suggest that you prioritize the items on your list. No puppy is perfect, and you want to decide what is most important to you on your list and what you will settle for if the puppy does not meet all your criteria.

Before I leave this subject, I want to get up on my soap box regarding the attitude I often run into with respect to the term “competition” as it pertains to obedience. Somehow the term has come to have a negative meaning as if one had to beat a dog or harass it to death to get him to be competitive. I see this opinion not only in people who do not do obedience as well as in those who belong to an obedience club. They really think we spend our time abusing our dogs to get them to perform in the ring. How clueless can you be! No dog is going to perform if he has been abused in his training. A dog must be trusting of you in order to be willing to perform consistently in the ring. In order to be “competitive” a dog must be willing to work and do it time after time. No dog who is mistreated will be willing to do that.

I hope I have been clear in indicating that a competition dog as I define him means a dog that is willing to play the many obedience “games” and challenges presented to him. It is a dog who is physically and mentally capable of learning, performing under different situations, and whose trainer has taken the time to teach him carefully and thoughtfully.

Puppy Obedience

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

Puppy Don'ts

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

As in anything there are always things NOT to do.

Number 1 in my books is don’t get sucked into buying over priced mutts that breeders refer to a “Highbreds” such as your cockapoos, labradoodles etc., etc.  Don’t be fooled!  These are plain and simple mutts.  These pups are sold at ridiculously high prices and you are being taken but good.  Just a few years ago people sold this type of dog as a mutt and they either gave them away or charged a small amount. Generally there is no genetic testing whatsoever.  So if momma or poppa dog has a serious genetic problem it is just bred on to your puppy.  Breeders are advertising these over-priced mutts everywhere.  You don’t have to be an Einstein to figure out why – the money is just pouring in.  And probably the poor momma dogs are bred every time they come into season and the breeders start breeding them when they are far to young.  You’ve heard the term “Puppy Mills”.  The term represents ugly, filthy and brutal.  Knowingly you would not buy a puppy from a mill but when you purchase puppies from a pet store or a know breeder of many breeds that is what you are unknowingly doing.  Most times registered purebred pups can be purchased cheaper then these “Designer” mutts.  Before buying check things out.  Don’t get taken.

Before you stop training any exercise make sure you aren’t quitting too soon. I’ll use the potty area exercise as an example.  Puppy is older now and is good about going to his potty area to eliminate when you are with him.  So now you are going to go out with him but only go three quarters of the way.  Puppy will probably want to stop where you are.  Walk puppy to the area, give the command, and then turn and go back slowly.  Stop and wait for puppy to do his job then call him to you.  Each day you go a little less distance as long as puppy continues to go to the area himself.  If he eliminates before he gets to his potty area,  you must quickly run up to him and say, “no, go potty” and take him to the potty area.   If this happens he has not grasped the aspect that he is to go in the potty area ONLY.  So go back to square one.  Don’t rush things.  When teaching always take it one step at a time.  If you do this puppy will not need to be reprimanded.  He cannot possibly do what it is you want him to do if he does not understand.  You understand English he does NOT.   They understand body language and tone of voice first.  Eventually they understand words but tone of voice they understand immediately.  If you are playing with puppy your voice is usually on a higher note.  When disciplining lower the voice and make it sound like you are growling.  After all that is what momma dog does and it is something puppies understand.

Another thing I see all the time and it is NOT necessary is when people take their male dogs for a walk and permit the dog to stop and urinate on anything and everything.  This makes me growl!  I have had 4 male dogs, even when intact, not a one of them thought they had to stop and piddle.  Why?  The answer is simple.  From the get-go I would not stop but just kept walking.  They caught on really quick.  They do not need to urinate along the way.  Especially if you have pottied them before you left your yard.  Once they get this through their heads stopping along the way is never a problem and your neighbours will like you and your dog.

If your dog has an accident along the way, always carry a plastic bag in your pocket, and pick it up.  This is just part and parcel of owning a dog.  Too many irresponsible people haven’t picked up after their dog and that is why we cannot take our dogs for a walk anymore in city parks.  My dogs are all trained but I cannot take a walk in the park and with them.  I wish I could.

Never strike your dog.  Use your voice to scold but do not hit.  Your hand should represent kindness and comfort not pain.  If puppy has been really bad, take him by the scruff of the neck give him a shake use a very growlly and stern NO or Stop It.

When playing with puppy use a puppy toy but not your hands or feet.  Teach children not to jump up and raise their hands into the air as this will only make puppy jump up too and very possibly knock the child down.  If a toy is always used then puppy will not be so apt to go for feet and hands.

Get puppy used to having you touch and feel his feet.  Get a soft brush and brush puppy gently and regularly.  Do not allow playing or mouthing.  If puppy persists with this behaviour just growl at him and say “stop it” in a very firm voice.  Make puppy sit still or have puppy lay on his side and try again.   Eventually, if you persist, he will sit or lay quietly and accept his grooming.  If you are not sure on how short to cut puppy’s nails have your veterinarian show you.  This is a very big part of owning a dog as nails have to be cut weekly or bi-monthly.  It is important that you learn how to do it properly.  If you cut too short the nail will bleed and hurt the puppy.  Even seasoned dog owners usually keep a product on hand called “Quick Stop” to shorten the bleeding when a nail has been cut to short.  It happens, unfortunately, but really try to have it happen as seldom as possible.  Some people use a grinder and actually grind the nails.  This eliminates cutting into the quick and ending up with the bleeding.

Puppy Do's

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

Before purchasing a dog read read, read, read.  The purchase of a puppy means a huge time commitment to raising that puppy.   Many hours need to be put into training if you are going to be happy with the adult.  Sometimes expenses of maintaining this puppy can become high as well.  It is important that you start of with a sound, healthy animal.  Veterinarian care does not come cheap.

Make a list of things that you are looking for in a dog and another list with what you do not like in a dog.  Then go looking for the breed that you think is the closest to what you want in an adult dog.  Next thing to do is find a reputable breeder.  This can be the tough part but well worth doing the homework for.

FEEDING

Purchase a good quality dry kibble puppy food.  You do not have to buy the most expensive food but nor should you buy the cheapest.  Compare ingredients; ask your veterinarian what they recommend.  And … never feed the amount that is recommended on the bags.  I find it to be excessive every time. The new trend these days is to feed a “raw” diet which I am not sold on.  Many of these dog food companies spend thousands of dollars checking and testing their foods to ensure a balanced diet.  Do you know exactly what your puppy needs?  Very few of us would know.  Frankly, I’ll stick with the tried and tested.

Feed your puppy at specific times.  Usually once in the morning and once around supper time.  Measure the food then put the food down and what is not consumed within 15 minutes, pick up, throw out or put away until the next feeding.  This way you will have a dog that eats quickly and enthusiastically.  Puppy should be fed like this until he is around 1 year of age.  If you “free feed” you really don’t know how much food the puppy is consuming or when he will need to eliminate.  Fresh water should be available at all times.  Except I would put the water dish up a couple of hours before you plan on retiring for the night.  Hopefully that way it won’t take long and puppy will be able to sleep through the night (and so will you).  Some dogs learn to hold their water quite early in life others take longer.  I have found that by 5 months (if not  a little sooner) puppy should be able to hold his water through the night.

KENNEL TRAINING & HOUSE BREAKING

I strongly believe every puppy should have the right to have a kennel.  It will become his haven; his den so as to speak.  I could write 100 pages on why to kennel train a puppy.  But I’ll stick to the basics.  A kennel trained puppy is much easier to house train then one that is not.  Even puppies only a week or ten days old will not soil their sleeping area.  So, if you put puppy in the kennel after he has been taken outside to eliminate, and you take him out again after he has awakened, the chances of an oops are much less.  Did you see I wrote “he has been taken outside”?  Good remember that for the next section.  Puppies should not have full run of the house until they have been house trained.  Having full run of your home is a privilege and they must earn that privilege before they are allowed to do so.  Of course you will want to have him in the living room with you occasionally.  This should be done for short periods only and he should be strictly observed, and only after puppy has eliminated.  You want as few puddles as possible because wherever he has gone, he will go back and piddle again.  There are any number of products on the market that will help with this problem but the best solution is not to allow it to happen very often.  If puppy is around you, as most are, but all of a sudden trucks off in a different direction and perhaps makes a turn or two, you know what he’s going to do!! Quickly pick him up and carry him to his potty area outside.  Praise the daylights out of him when he goes.  If you are too late to catch puppy before the deed is done do not hit or yell at him.  If you do this all you teach puppy to do is be more sneaky the next time.  And never discipline puppy if you don’t actually catch him in the act.  If you discipline after he won’t have a clue what it was that he did wrong. All he knows is you are treating him badly and probably scaring the wits out of him in the process.  Never, never rub puppies nose in it unless you want him to become a poop eater.

Keep this tip in mind: puppies usually eliminate within 20 minutes of eating.

Any puppy or dog that is kennel trained is usually calmer and safer.  Puppies can and do chew the darndest things; anything they can reach.  Wires leading into electrical plug-ins, wooden tables & chairs, gyproc, furniture, your expensive shoes, you name they’ll chew it.  So, if you are out and puppy is in his kennel he can’t do those things.  He is safe from harm. A rawhide or favourite, safe, toy can be put in the kennel with him. Another thing to consider, if puppy has to stay at the veterinarians, he will be kennelled.  If puppy is accustomed to a kennel he will not be stressed out but will in fact be allot calmer then one that is not used to being in a kennel.

KENNEL TRAINING

If your puppy is young he will take to the kennel easier then an older puppy but even an older puppy can be trained.  Generally they don’t like their kennels at first.  But if the kennel training is approached in a positive way puppy usually settles in quite quickly.  Firstly make sure your kennel is not too big or puppy might use this as his potty area.  Get one small enough, even if it means getting a larger one as he grows.  They should be able to lay down comfortably, stand up and turn around. They do not need anything much bigger at first.  Start by putting puppy in the kennel for a very brief time along with a small treat.  Shut the door.  Open the door and let puppy out BEFORE he starts making a fuss.  If you wait until he makes a fuss and then immediately let him out you are teaching him if he makes a fuss you’ll let him out. NOT what you want at all!  You would do this as many times in a day that you can.  Try to make a game of it.  Be happy.  Have the kennel in a room where it is easily accessible like the kitchen for instance.  And always have a little treat to put in with puppy.  Maybe even put something in the kennel that he really likes but shut the door and don’t let him in right away.  Another thing that convinces puppies this is a really good place is to always feed him in his kennel. And whatever you do never feed puppy from the table.

When retiring for the night move the kennel into the bedroom with you.  By far most puppies do not want to be alone.  Once puppy is trained to the kennel it can be left in the room where you want him to sleep.  Most puppies are kept in the bedroom with their owners.

HOUSE BREAKING

Puppies train much faster if you take them outside then if you just shove them outside by themselves.  To be put outside all by themselves can be quite threatening and scary to a young puppy.  He will not be thinking of doing his business I can assure you.  So, you go outside with puppy.  Take him to the his potty area and give the command to “go pee” or “go potty” whatever term you want to use.  Do not interfere with the puppy but keep it all business.  Let him sniff about and in time he will do his job.  Do not rush him but be patient and let him do his thing.  When puppy has done his business praise lavishly immediately.  Treat it like he has done the most wonderful thing he could ever do.  Don’t laugh …. it works!!  Also, at first, if you can dab up a bit of his urine on an old cloth or paper towel and put this in his potty area it may entice him to go more quickly.   If you want puppy to stick to this potty area continuously be very persistent about going out with him and showing him where it is you want him to go.  Continue until puppy can go out by himself and still use the potty area.  It is not necessary that the whole back yard become his potty area.  This area should be back from the entrance to your house. Marble size or larger gravel could be used in this area.  And …. it must be kept clean.  When puppy does his job pick it up and discard it as soon as possible.

A side note to all this:  By giving the puppy the command to “go potty” you are training him to do this on command.  Therefore you can take him anywhere, give him the command, and the deed is done.  Makes life much simpler.  Use this command before leaving your yard for a drive or a walk.  This command saves messy clean-ups, unplanned stops along the way and long waits.  It takes time to train this command but it is worth every minute that it takes to train it.

SPAYING OR NEUTERING

By all means I fully recommend you have this done.  Again the sooner the better.  Talk to your vet and see how soon they will alter your pup.  Any animal that is altered in my opinion is a much nicer pet to live with.  Females do NOT need to be bred once to be a better pet.  This is a huge myth that some people actually believe.  And it is wrong, wrong, wrong!  Altering prevents many health problems and behavioural problems.  Nip these problems in the bud and get your animal altered when it is young.

Out Means No!

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

by Ms. Dany Canino

When all puppies were still with their mommas, and whenever they did something that displeased her, she would grab them by the scruff of their necks and shake them. She would also growl to verbally state her disapproval of the pup´s behavior. This very quickly taught the pup that if he started to do something wrong and his momma would growl, he had a sense memory of the correction to his scruff of neck. When the bad behavior stopped, momma would lick the pup about the head to let the pup know that she forgave him. Rarely did the puppy make the same mistake twice.

When we take a dog into our home we need to try and simulate our actions of teaching and correcting the pup like momma did.

To accomplish this you´ll need to put a collar (preferably a choke chain) on the pup and attach a leash. Lay down some objects that you don´t want the puppy to ever bother; the TV remote control, a dirty sock, the couch pillow, and a magazine or newspaper.

Walk the puppy over to any of these objects and as soon as he attempts to grab one, give a quick jerk of the leash as you scold, “OUT” to the pup. Make sure that you sound like you´re growling. When the pup stops his curiosity of the object, praise him both verbally and physically.

Chances are that if you approach any of these objects again, the pup will look away from them.

Don´t be afraid to make it an effective correction. If you only give him a tiny tug, he´ll have trouble believing you and, you´ll find yourself repeating this correction many times. Whereas, one good correction would teach the pup; not nag him.

In time, you won´t have to sound like you´re growling when you give this correction and you´ll be able to use it even when the dog is off leash.

There is no reason why your dog can´t learn that certain items in your home are “off limits” to him, but that he can still have his toys. If you take the time to work on this, it won´t be long before the pup can have the freedom to be in the house without tearing things up.

Also, in time this corrective word can be used to stop any behavior that you disapprove of. Such as, excessive barking, scratching at the back door to get in, chasing the cat, or trying to drink out of the aquarium; (or some other household water container!).

It´s not good to use the word “No” for corrective work because if you have children around this can become a common household word. Therefore, your dog will think he´s being corrected when he´s not even doing anything wrong. Also, you can´t really growl when saying the word “No”, but you can sound like a real canine when you use the word, “Out”. Remember, we´re trying to simulate momma dog and her sound of correction.

This form of correction can be introduced to pups as young as 9-10 weeks of age. Obviously, if the dog you were working with was over 1 year, your correction with the leash would be stronger than it would be on a young pup under 1 year.

One of the most important things to remember is to verbally and/or physically praise your dog after a correction and, also whenever he does something appropriate; such as choosing to walk away from the remote that´s on the floor, or those dirty socks your kid has left out of the hamper.

By the way, if you are using the word “Out” to tell your dog to go outside; don´t panic that you´ll confuse your dog. Your tone of voice when you tell the dog to go out to the backyard is never growled. Your tone of voice can define a correction or simply imply a pleasant action. You make that decision.

Before you know it you´ll have a well behaved dog that respects your things and is content to play with “His” toys only.

Leash Training

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

by Michelle Santana,
Foxfire Dobermans

I can’t say I have any great tips on leash training a new puppy but I will explain what I do. My situation here is a little different than the average puppy home.

I start my puppies out going on Nature walks at six weeks … picture this, ME, momma duck, with her gaggle of little pups. All the pups are off leash, I whistle and say ‘this way’ and I proceed to go for a walk on our seven plus acres. At first it takes a bit of coaxing and the going is slow as the pups learn about being outside in the big world following me. I often have to go back to help and encourage stragglers. At this point we make it to the end of the drive and back, a goodly distance for a six/seven week old pup. I may make several trips a day depending on my schedule. Eventually after a few days the pups are secure enough to make it around the bend to follow the trail into the woods and down to the creek where I sit and let them explore, climb the rocks at the edge of creek, wade or fall in the creek if they so desire. The whole walk takes 45 minutes or more during which time they can do whatever they want in the exploring department. Often leaving the trail, I walk slowly so  I can take this time to enjoy their off  road adventures and evaluate them structurally and temperamentally. They have a blast and so do I. I feel this is somewhat like Marj’ Brook’s ‘Rule of Seven‘. So, in addition to the daily house experiences, the puppies have a natural Jungle Gym with terrain such as gravel, grass, leaves, water, woods, tree stumps ,even plastic tarps and a chain link fence on the ground that they can crawl over. They have everything  necessary to develop a well rounded strange footing and off lead confidence. Taking all this into account, it isn’t very difficult for me to lead train my pups. They have followed me their whole lives.

Then I graduate to lead training a pup with a nylon show collar. You can use a wider web buckle collar if your pup is really resistant to the choke-type collar. Remember what I said about bad habits being created with different collars? I don’t use a choke chain on young pups. It is a little heavy duty for what we are trying to accomplish at this point. I think it helps to first lead train a pup in a familiar environment like your yard. That way you’re not fighting  two  negative experiences; a strange place and walking on a leash/collar. I get a pocket full of hot dogs and  place a medium width, round nylon show collar on the pup. I make sure it is a bit longer in length than necessary because it has to fit over the ear-rolling apparatus. The puppies, because of their upbringing of following me on walks, naturally want to go with me. I say ‘this way’ and usually they just follow because that is what they have always done. I take a few steps, walking backwards, half stooped over, facing them, holding  a piece of hot dog just in front of them and they  walk/run to me/hot dog  and they get the reward. Gradually I increase my distance from them. I keep backing up until the pup catches on and becomes comfortable with the collar enclosing around it’s neck and the leash dangling. At this point I don’t have a particular direction. If the pup wants to go in another direction or is acting a little fearful of what is going on I let them go where they want to and try to position myself so that I can give the hot dog as  reward for walking on the leash. It doesn’t take very long for the pup to put it’s fear of the confines of a collar and leash aside and follow me for the hot dog. When the pup is comfortable with following I stand up and turn around and go for a walk, encouraging and occasionally turning around to give a reward for walking with me. This doesn’t have to be a bad experience! Dragging  young puppies around the show grounds to leash break them, with the pups screaming and everyone looking on in horror, is wrong. It shouldn’t have to be that way! Use patience and REWARD!

I Said Wait

Breeder/Exhibitor Ed, Obedience/Training

Written and submitted by Ms Dany Canino

“Wait” is a very useful command because it can be taught at a very early age and it can be repeated for emphasis. This is not a command that will ever be used when you´re working your dog in obedience and therefore you won´t run the risk of confusing your dog between the word “wait” (a command you can repeat) and “Stay” (a command you should never repeat). Another beneficial factor of using this command is that the dog is not required to hold steady in a particular position, whereas, when using the command to stay the dog will be required to hold whatever position you commanded him into.

This word can be introduced to puppies as early as 9-10 weeks of age. The following text is a “how to” of getting started on using this command.

Put a collar (preferably choke chain; properly put on) on the puppy and a leash of approximately 6 feet. You and dog start towards the front door that has been pre-opened. As you reach the door tell the dog to “Wait”! Proceed to step forward through the door (don´t forget to let the slack out on the leash) and if the dog advances to go with you, pull back slightly on the leash (back, not up, we only require the dog to wait, not sit) as you firmly say to the dog, “…I said Wait”. If this is a very young, small puppy, you can push him back at his chest instead of using the leash correction. This works almost instantly. Rarely do you have to repeat this a 3^rd time, but if you do, be even more emphatic when you say it.

After the command is given, step outside. Remember to keep the leash totally slack. Don´t let it tighten or you´ll confuse the dog. In the beginning you should wait outside the door for about 20 seconds. You then have two choices:

• You can step back inside and praise the dog for a job well done.
• You can pick a “cue” word that tells the dog that from now on he is only allowed to cross this threshold when he hears that “cue” word.

You must pick a word that the entire family will use. It means that every time they want to take the dog out, this word must be given at the door. If everybody uses a different word the dog will be confused and will soon start darting out the door because of a lack of consistency.

The cue word does not have to be particularly “doggie”. I´ve had clients that use the word “green”. I´ve had clients that use the word “okay”. And, I´ve had clients that chose to use a foreign language word. The choice is open to you but once again, make sure that all family members use this word too.

You should practice this about 3 times per day at varying times and at any door that could lead the dog into “harm´s way”. This is usually the front door. Be sure to have other adult members of the household try this too. Remember, we want the dog to respond to all family members. As you experience more reliability from your dog you can then allow the younger members of your family (not too young please) to try this.

REMEMBER THAT “WAIT” SIMPLY MEANS “DO NOT GO FORWARD”. THE DOG IS NOT REQUIRED TO SIT OR LIE DOWN WHEN THIS COMMAND IS GIVEN. HE CAN STAND, SIT, OR LIE DOWN. HE JUST CAN´T CROSS THE THRESHOLD UNTIL HE HEARS THE “CUE” WORD FROM YOU.

A word about the “I Said Wait” corrective phrase. You need to let the dog know how disturbed you are with him for disobeying your command. The best way to correlate the emphasis of this correction is to remember when you were very young and your mother told you to perform a simple task. You got distracted and didn´t do what she said and when your mom came back she said, “Sarah Jane Mitchell I told you to…….”. When your mother used all 3 of your names, you knew by this that you had made a very big mistake and were probably going to be punished. It´s this voice anger you need to use when correcting your dog on this exercise.

If you´re at the point where you want to call the dog out of the door, you should inter-mix this; calling the dog through the door to you and going back to the dog for him to fully understand what responsibility goes with this command.

Also use this command with the dog facing inside the house from the backyard. This way he´ll learn not to charge into the house like a bull in Spain. You can also use this command at the threshold of a particular room that you might (perhaps) never want the dog to go into. If you do, remember to not call the dog into that room ever! If you have stairs use this command every time the dog and someone else is going to descend or ascend the stairs. This way the dog can never be guilty of knocking some child, or adult, over.

After one week of testing this command at the front door, you need to extend the time (1 minute at the end of this week) and the distance (approximately 15 feet) from where you told the dog to wait. Then about midweek of practicing this you need to make yourself disappear from the dog´s sight. By that I mean you need to step around behind a bush or the side of the house.

REMEMBER, WHEN YOU FIRST START TO PRACTICE THIS OUT OF SIGHT “WAIT” YOU SHOULD ONLY STAY ABOUT 20 SECONDS BEFORE YOU GO BACK TO THE DOG, DON´T CALL THE DOG THROUGH THE DOORWAY. MAKE HIM LEARN THAT HE ALWAYS HAS TO WAIT “INSIDE”. IF YOU WANT HIM TO COME OUTSIDE, GO BACK TO WHERE HE CAN SEE YOU BEFORE ALLOWING HIM TO COME OUTSIDE. YOU CAN INCREASE THIS TIME, AS HE GETS MORE RELIABLE.

Use this “wait” command when you need to take the dog with you in the car. As you open the car door tell the dog to “wait” (you probably no longer have to give that slight tug back on the leash). Open the car door and wait a few seconds. Then tell the dog: “OK” “Get In” – “Load Up” – “Get In The Car”, whatever command you want to use, but be consistent. Use the same technique when you reach your destination. Before you open the car door, tell the dog to “wait”. Open the door and if he tries to jump out, be prepared to forcefully shove him back into the car as you say, “…I said wait”. You should then make him wait for about 10-20 seconds. Then call him out of the car by telling him, “OK” – ” out of the car” – “unload” . Again you can make the choice of command, but remember, even if you choose to use a foreign language word be sure you use it every time.

The uses for this command are endless. How nice to have a dog that, when you are coming home with an arm full of groceries, you can give your dog this command and enter your door with the confidence that your groceries won´t end up on the floor instead of the refrigerator. It will certainly make all your efforts worthwhile.

With each new situation where you don´t want the dog to advance forward until you give the “special command” you should slowly increase the responsible time and distance with the dog.

If you are diligent with this, it really won´t be long before you can start to add distractions to test the dog´s reliability. Start by having the dog on a 15 foot line. Again telling him to “wait” at the door. Go out of the dog´s sight, but not so far that you couldn´t get back to him quickly should you need to make a correction. Pre-arrange with a friend to walk past your open door with their dog so that your dog might be enticed by this sight to run out to the distraction. If your dog passes the threshold without having been given the “release” command, you need to fly to where the dog is and practically t
hrow him back across the threshold as you roar, “I SAID WAIT”!!! You´d be surprised how effective this “surprise attack” will be to ensure reliability in your dog.

After this test is accomplished a few different times with different distractions, it won´t be long before you can remove the leash to test the dog´s reliability to “wait” when and where he´s told to until he´s been told otherwise.

It is absolutely gratifying to see pups as young as 10 weeks waiting at an open door until they hear that special command to advance forward or, until the master returns to them to relieve them of this responsibility. In a short period of time you can comfortably open your front door as you tell your dog to “wait” and then you can go out to your mailbox or visit with a friend in front of your house. All the time being comfortable with the knowledge that because you took the time to teach your dog that he can´t leave your house without your approval he won´t go through the doorway.

One very important thing to remember about teaching this command or any other command: ALWAYS REMEMBER TO PRAISE YOUR DOG FOR THE WORK HE´S DOING AND FOR HIS RELIABILITY IN ANYTHING YOU´VE TAUGHT HIM. PRAISE IS THE ONLY PAYCHECK YOUR DOG GETS FOR A JOB WELL DONE, SO DON´T FORGET TO USE IT A LOT!

Reprinted with permission