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Puppy Development and Socialization

Installment 1 Installment 2 Installment 3 Installment 4 Installment 5 Installment 6

Installment 1

The Public Education Committee of the Doberman Pinscher Club of America (DPCA) is proud to announce a new educational series that will appear weekly. The first will be on puppy development and socialization.

Before we start, it is important to note that the DPCA believes that breeding programs should be undertaken responsibly for the purpose of preserving breed characteristics and producing healthy, well-socialized purebred puppies. The most important factors to consider in all breeding decisions should be health, temperament and conformation. The importance of an apprenticeship with a respected mentor cannot be understated.

Susan James has graciously allowed the DPCA to use the pictures and videos taken of her last litter. The dam of the featured litter is Ch. Raindance Genesis of Marquis “Genesis” bred by Susan and Chelsea James and Linda and Kelly Marquis. The sire is Ch. Marquis Retribution “Dante” bred by Linda and Kelly Marquis.

In the below video, Genesis is 53 days into her pregnancy. In this final phase, the puppies continue their development safely in her womb and begin moving around as Genesis’ body prepares for their delivery.


Installment 2

Ann Seranne, one of America’s most respected authorities on breeding, wrote: “The challenge before us is to capture all the qualities in one gorgeous, animated package and lock those genes into our genetic lines so that our dogs will eventually breed true. We may not be able to accomplish this in the remaining span of our lives, but we hope that we will be able to leave the foundation for such a dream to an equally interested person who will be able to accomplish in his lifetime what we will attempt to strive for in ours.”

The Doberman Pinscher Club of America is blessed to have many reputable breeders, some of which apprenticed with the pioneers that brought our great breed to this country. These dedicated breeders have an intimate knowledge of our bloodlines and every litter they produce represents the years they have invested in breeding quality Dobermans. They will pass their knowledge onto others with the same spirit of preserving and protecting our breed’s heritage and traditions for generations to come.

Whelping Day

For the past 63 days, each puppy has been living and developing in its own amniotic sac which is attached to its own placenta by the umbilical cord. During that time, they have grown from the size of a pea into a fully formed puppy.

puppy-development

 

Now in Stage 3 of their development, they move around so much that their kicks can be seen through the mother’s abdomen. We found a wonderful description on the three stages of puppy development which we will include here. We liked it because it wasn’t too scientific to understand yet covered the developmental stages nicely. It can also be found at http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5370646_stages-puppy-development-during-pregnancy.html .

Stage 1: Without the assistance of a trained professional who knows how to palpate the stomach to confirm the presence of puppies, diagnosing the pregnancy of a dog can be challenging within the first few weeks. Changes in the appearance of the mother’s nipples, as well as her appetite and behavior, are often so subtle that the initial stages of pregnancy escape notice.

Around the third week, the cells of the embryo multiply and implant within the dog’s uterus to begin the development process. At this stage – around 26 to 32 days into creation – a veterinarian will most likely be able to palpate and confirm the presence of the puppies.

Stage 2: Around the fourth week, the occupants of the mother’s uterus begin to make themselves at home. The eyes and faces of the puppies begin to form, and their spinal cords take shape. During this time, the fetus is most susceptible to issues, which can, in extreme cases, cause fetal death. While some of the congenital hindrances can be quite obvious immediately upon birth, many, such as defects to functioning organs, will remain hidden until well into the formative stages of the puppy’s life.

Around the fifth and sixth week, the puppies can double in size to around 20 to 30 mm. Now they’re starting to look like puppies with toes and claws forming as well as tiny whisker stumps under the nose. Their eyes are still closed and their skin pigment has formed. At this stage, their bodies have developed to the point that the sex can be determined and a stethoscope can easily pick up a heartbeat.

genesis-2-xray

In this X-ray of Genesis’ abdomen, you can see the skeletal structures of the puppies

 

Stage 3: In the final phase of the pregnancy, the puppies continue their development safely within the womb. They continue to grow, and will begin to move around inside while mama’s body prepares for the delivery.

The puppies will take one of two positions inside the uterus in preparation for their big entrance into the world: anterior (nose and front paws pointed toward the birth canal) and posterior (tail and back paws appear first).

Before birth, they will be enclosed in two separate sacs. The outer one will split open during the birth process.

We can now take a look at the Breeder’s Birthing Log which was prepared by Susan and Chelsea James of Raindance Dobermans. (Raindance Dobermans are probably best known as the co-breeders of Troy (GCH Raindance Led Zeppelin of Marquis), the Doberman who found cancer in his owner’s breast, saving her life (http://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/westminster-contender-saved-owner-life-article-1.1601212.)

Genesis and Dante Birthing Log

Sept 29, 2014 AM

Genesis temperature was fluctuating between 101 and 99. Genesis is fine. She ate, drank and went out to potty normally.

Set 29, 2014 PM

Gen is not interested in dinner, but acting normal. She is so uncomfortable. I put her in the whelping box but did not want to stay in there without me by her side. We are both in the box together.

Set 30, 2014 1AM

Genesis is now nesting and becoming very active. I am in the box with her and let her do all the re-arranging she wanted.

3:45 AM

Gen has started heavy panting and started to have some contractions. Chelsea is in the whelping box with Genesis. All supplies are outside the box. We are ready.

4:30 AM

Gen gave a few strong contractions and out comes the first puppy. Chelsea removed the sac, cleaned out the mouth for fluids, cut the cord and wiped her with a towel while rubbing her body to stimulate. Genesis ate the placenta. The first puppy is a girl, weighing 9.5 oz. She is strong and active. I put a white ribbon around her neck. The puppy was given to Genesis. Gen immediately inspected her and moved her around with her nose. She was placed on a teat to suckle. I stated a color coded log to track weight and progress.

5:05 AM

Gen started contracting. I placed white collar in a basket lined with towels and a warmed snuggle disk outside the whelping box as I will do with each new puppy to be delivered.

5:10 AM

Gen gave birth to her second puppy. All is going fine. It is a male weighing 1.2 lb., wearing a yellow ribbon. We cleaned him and gave yellow collar and white collar back to suckle.

5:20 AM

I offered Genesis warmed Mothers Pudding which she lapped up and started getting ready for her 3rd puppy. The first two puppies were placed in the basket.

5:30 AM

A male weighing 1.1 lb wearing a red ribbon

6:00 AM

A bitch weighing 1 lb wearing a hot pink ribbon

6:15 AM

A male weighing 1.1 lb wearing a blue collar

6:25 AM

A male weighing 1 lb wearing a lime collar

6:45 AM

A bitch weighing 1.1 lb wearing a teal collar

7:00 AM

All towels are replaced with warmed clean dry bedding. Gen was given Mothers Pudding.

Genesis has 7 healthy puppies. 3 bitches and 4 males, all red and all perfect.

All puppies are nursing and Genesis is exhausted. As I lay beside her, I made sure the puppies are nursing and Genesis is OK. I put 3 warmed snuggle disks under the bedding. The temperature in the room is 80 degrees. It is very warm in the room and I am so HOT.

9:00 AM

I let Genesis out to potty. She needed to be leashed to get her out of the box. She relieved herself quickly and ran back to the babies. I made sure she did not step on one as she eagerly returned to the box. I offered Gen Mothers Pudding which she ate.

9:30 AM

Gen is sleeping and all puppies are suckling. I am watching white collar to make sure she was on a nipple and also closed my eyes.

The entire day was relaxed and quiet. Gen has plenty of milk and puppies content.

genesis_2-1 genesis_2-2 genesis_2-3 genesis_2-4 genesis_2-5

Day One Video:

Day Two Video:


Installment 3

“Experience is the teacher of all things” – Julius Caesar

WHY EXPERIENCE MATTERS IN BREEDING

Puppies 1 week old

Puppies 1 week old

This group of puppies already has big advantages as they come into the world. Every aspect of their existence has been well thought out and planned. When selecting a sire, the breeders’ knowledge of bloodlines was a crucial component in making the decision. They wanted a sire that would complement the desirable traits they already had while giving them traits they either wanted to strengthen or did not have. While Mother Nature can sometimes throw in a wicked curve ball, knowledge of bloodlines does help reduce the odds of genetic disorders in the litter. Breeders view each breeding as another opportunity to move a step closer to the ideal that is the breed standard. Consistently producing healthy, structurally and mentally sound puppies is a labor of love that requires intense devotion and responsibility. This is where knowledge and experience define the difference between breeding a litter and breeding for the benefit of the breed.

Puppies are born without sight or sound. Eyes and ears continue development for the first several weeks after birth. In this most vulnerable of stages, the puppies are completely reliant on their mother and the breeders for their survival. The breeders will closely monitor their weight and growth and will supplement the puppies for extra nutrition.

The puppies also cannot regulate their bodily functions like temperature and elimination. Temperature regulation comes once their shivering reflex starts to work. Shivering is an involuntary muscular response from the body which is triggered by being too cold. This is why puppies huddle together for warmth – puppies separated from the “nest” can quickly die of hypothermia or become sick which is a threat to the entire litter. Monitoring the puppies’ temperatures to ensure that they are neither too cold nor too hot is very important for their survival.

Elimination is another reflex which is stimulated when the mother cleans her puppies. The puppies will not be able to eliminate on their own until they are approximately 3 weeks of age.

Now that the puppies are born, the breeders are in charge of seven precious lives and the work now done during these puppies’ many developmental stages will chart the course on how well the puppies will handle the variety of things they will encounter in life.

Weeks 1 and 2 – Neonatal Period

The first milk produced by the mother is called colostrum. It is rich in nutrition and antibodies that help protect the puppies from disease during these first weeks of life. The puppies do little but nurse and sleep because all of their energy is channeled into growth. Their birth weight will double in this first week. Since the puppies cannot yet walk, they crawl by pulling themselves around using their front legs and kicking with their back. Crawling helps to develop both muscles and coordination and once they get the hang of it, they start to crawl and wiggle with abandon!

Let’s take a look at Susan and Chelsea James’ breeders’ log for weeks 1 and 2:

Genesis and Dante Birthing Log

Oct 3, 2014

Off to the Vet about 40 minutes away for tails and Dew Claws. The van is nice and warm. All the puppies are cozy in a towel lined basket with a warmed snuggle sack under the towels.

The Puppies tails and dew claws were done. All is fine and tails all look good.

Genesis came for the ride.

Oct 3-7 – Week 1

Puppies are all doing great and gaining weight steadily. They are active and very hungry. Genesis is being an absolute perfect Mother with lots of milk and nurturing.

I am supplementing the puppies 3-4 times a day with an excellent formula from Whelp Wise. The preemie bottles and nipples are from Whelp Wise. After years of searching for the perfect nipple, I found these nipples to be the best.

The puppies know when I get into the whelping box with their bottles. They all start to climb on me at the same time wanting to be the first to get fed. They are so darn cute and smart.

The tails have healed nicely.

Oct 8-14 – Week 2

All puppies are doing great. Little White Collar is extremely active and strong. She is doing fantastic and I know she will be fine. Yellow Collar now named “big piggy” is the biggest and always on a nipple.

They are all very close in size with White Collar slowing catching up. Their eyes started opening at about 10 days.

 

Week 1 video:

Week 2 videos:




 

Installment 4

“Of all the things I miss from veterinary practice, puppy breath is one of the most fond memories!” – Dr. Tom Cat

Transitional Period – Weeks 2 to 4

In this time frame, the puppies will go through more rapid physical and sensory development and will start to become a bit more independent from their mother.

As we have learned from the previous installments, puppies are born with limited senses. They can feel, smell and taste but their eyes and ears are sealed shut. Usually between 10 to 14 days, their eyes open for the first time. The puppies will be able to see light, fuzzy shapes and movement but their visual acuity will not be completely developed until they are around 7 weeks of age.

Just as with human ears, a puppy’s ears not only provide the ability to hear sound but they also provide equilibrium for balance. Unlike human ears, however, a dog’s ears are remarkably acute and they are able to hear sounds at high frequencies or low, soft volumes that humans cannot detect. The breeders know when a puppy hears its first sound because it will react as if startled.

Vocally, the puppies can now whine, bark and yelp – a whole new vocabulary is now open to them.

The puppies’ baby (or deciduous) teeth also start to emerge at around 10 days. They will eventually have a total of 28 baby teeth which, as most people know, are incredibly sharp!

The puppies are now very active as their motor skills kick into hyper-drive! Their leg muscles have enough strength to now support their bodies so they can stand usually by day 15 and begin to walk by day 21. Walking will be full of wobbles and falls as they learn the art of movement and balance.

The puppies are now able to eliminate on their own and will leave the nest to do so. The puppies also begin to moderate their own body temperature but continued monitoring still needs to be done to ensure puppies do not get too cold.

They now begin to show more of an interest in their littermates and the play process begins!

Let’s take another look at Susan and Chelsea James’ breeders’ log, videos and pictures. You can tell how much the puppies have changed from the neonatal state. You can also get a sense of how much work is being put into their care. The breeders are now introducing different stimuli to the puppies’ environment. This is the optimal time for the breeders to increase their individual attention to each puppy. Introducing them to a variety of sounds and environments and even placing them on different surfaces is important to the socialization process.

Blue Collar Lime Collar Pink Collar
Purple Collar Red Collar Teal Collar
Yellow Collar

Genesis and Dante Birthing Log

Puppies are getting more and more active now. Genesis is still nursing. Their teeth are starting to cut through the gums. Genesis is in and out of the whelping box as she wants.

3 weeks

All puppies’ eyes are opened and they are starting to walk around and interact with each other.

Mother Genesis is still nursing and I am still supplementing. They are all just too cute.

3.5 weeks

I separated the whelping box with ½ bedding and ½ newspapers over a washable wee wee pad. This is working out great and they are getting the idea to potty on the paper.

I started dremeling their nails.

I started introducing them to a mix of warmed rice cereal, Gerber chicken and beef jarred baby food with fresh goat’s milk.

I am feeding them outside the whelping box. The first feeding was very messy. More food was on them then in their tummies. The second feeding was fantastic. They love the food and are getting better about eating it then stepping in it.

Week 4

The puppies are moved out of the nursery to a much larger space in the living room.

I have three sleeping sections for them. One is an open crate lined with fluffy bedding; an extra large Kuranda cot with legs removed piled high with bedding and another with a big plush doggy bed. I am still putting snuggle warming disks under the bedding. The balance of the play area is lined with newspapers.

They love to suck the fuzzy type bedding and always drift off to sleep while sucking.

The puppies have sharp teeth and have started hurting Gen at nursing time.

Genesis has decided she is finished with her Motherly duties and wanted to return to the pack. I would not force her to stay and subject her to the pain.

The Puppies love their new space and are having a ball running and playing with all their new toys.

I put a small little tykes slide in the area and immediately they had to check it out and climb it. They are just too cute for words.

I started feeding the puppies 4 times a day. I always have a sombrero feeding bowl filled with water diluted goats milk. They quickly learned how to lap up the milk. The bowl needed to be filled very often.

I have gradually added some water soaked kibble (overnight soaking) to their food of rice cereal, Gerber baby food (2 jars per feeding) and goat milk.

They are doing great and gaining weight nicely.

They are smart, very social and have great appetites and I am so in love with these adorable puppies.


 

Installment 5

“Whoever said you can’t buy happiness forgot little puppies.” Gene Hill

Socialization Period Part 1 (Weeks 5 to 16)

Awareness and Imprinting

Now that the puppies are out of their transition period and have full use of all of their senses, they become more aware and want to explore everything around them. They should be exposed to a wide variety of sounds (telephone ringing, television, radio, music, vacuum, dropping a metal pan on the floor etc.). They will startle when they hear new things and then return to normal. This “startle and return to normal “response needs to be heavily encouraged so the dog retains that behavior for the remainder of his life.

Introduction to different visual stimuli is also needed such as objects that move or have moving parts. Having the puppies move through a tunnel where the light changes from light to dark to light is also beneficial. Dogs have a built-in fear instinct that is part of their natural instinct to survive so it is important for them to experience as many things as they can before that instinct kicks in.

Imprinting is a critical phase-sensitive learning that occurs at a particular age and teaches behavioral characteristics. When learned properly, it also teaches the puppies that they are dogs. They first imprint on their mother which happens within the first 24 hours after birth when the puppy recognizes their mother by smell. Fraternal imprinting happens between 3 to 8 weeks – this is where puppies identify with their siblings and other dogs they encounter. What we see as a bunch of cute puppies playing is actually needed for their social development. This is where they learn play behavior, bite inhibition and even accepting discipline. Puppies also display the beginnings of sexual imprinting where they learn about appropriate behavior for their own and the opposite sex. It is extremely important that the puppies are left in the litter as long as possible so the puppies learn as much as they can before going to their new homes.

Longtime DPCA member, AKC Judge and Author, Pat Hastings, wrote The Rule of Sevens years ago which provides examples of what seven things a puppy should have experienced by seven weeks of age.

THE RULE OF SEVENS

By the time a puppy is 7 weeks old it should:

  • Been on 7 different surfaces, such as: carpet, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips, newspaper, etc.
  • Played with 7 different types of objects, such as: big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, fuzzy balls, squeaky toys, metal items, wooden items, paper/cardboard items, milk/soda jugs, etc.
  • Been in 7 different locations, including: front yard, backyard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, crate, kennel, etc.
  • Been exposed to 7 challenges, such as: climbed a box, climbed off a box, gone through a tunnel, climbed up steps, climbed down steps, climbed over obstacles, played hide and seek, gone in and out of a doorway with a step, etc.
  • Eaten from 7 different containers: metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, china, pie plate, frying pan, etc.
  • Eaten in 7 different locations: crate, yard, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bedroom, x-pen, etc.
  • Met and played with 7 new people, including children and the elderly.

Socialization Builds Confidence

Dog behaviorists theorize that 35% of a dog’s temperament is hereditary (nature) and 65% is left to experience, nutrition and physical condition (nurture). With that in mind, a puppy that has been able to experience a wide range of stimuli, including people, animals and environments, will most likely become a well-mannered and trusted member of the family. Conversely, dogs that do not have the important foundation that early socialization provides may react with fear or aggression whenever they are exposed to new things and are way more likely to be abandoned by their owners.

Most feel that socialization starts in utero by keeping the mother calm, happy and well nourished during her pregnancy. Stress can have very negative consequences for both the mother and her developing puppies. Proper prenatal care is very important for both. While socialization is most important during the optimal stages we are discussing, it should be carried on throughout the dog’s life. Joining an obedience class, going to a dog park, meeting new people, going for walks, and even taking your dog to the vet helps ensure that our dog remains happy and stable throughout its life.

 

Dante and Genesis Birthing Log

5-7 weeks

The Puppies settled into their new space which is divided with a variety of sleeping areas and a huge play area.

CrateThe are getting acquainted with the crate and love the cozy and warm feeling when in there. This is the first step in crate training. Baby Steps.

 

 

 

SlideThe slide is giving them hour of fun while strengthening their balance and coordination.

White Collar now sporting a purple/pink collar, and also named Ariane, was the first one on the slide and soon after the litter mates wanted to give it a try. From that moment on the slide was their main source of entertainment.

 

 

SombreroThey all have been eating well, 4 times a day, and keeping their bedding nice and dry. I replaced the sombrero feeding bowl filled with goats milk and water to a large bucket filled with water. I have deleted rice cereal from their diet and have increased kibble. I am adding boneless, skinless boiled chicken breast, put through the food processor, in their food. I am continuing to include goat milk. I have gradually introduced powdered Vitamin C, Ultimate Doggyzimes and Holistic Pet Organics Canine Complete.

It is non-stop play, pass out, non-stop play and pass out. This age is so important for development and socialization.

I am now allowing visitors to come and meet the kids which they love.

They all greet the visitors with confidence and abundant affection. They are such a joy to watch interact with everyone.


 

Installment 6

“A puppy is but a dog, plus high spirits, and minus common sense.” – Agnes Repplier

“There are all sorts of cute puppy dogs, but it doesn’t stop people from going out and buying Dobermans.” – Angus Young

SOCIALIZATION PERIOD PART 2 (WEEKS 5 TO 16)

Awareness and Imprinting

In the last installment, we talked about imprinting and how it teaches behavioral characteristics. It is in this critical phase, that puppies imprint on their mother, learn that they are dogs, exhibit early sexual behavior, and learn to identify with their siblings and other animals in the household.

As the puppies’ depth perception improves, playtime becomes more sophisticated and includes chasing, wrestling, growling and play fighting, all of which builds strength, agility and coordination. They also learn the language of dominance and submission using prey killing behavior like pouncing on or shaking an object and by normal play activity wherein they take turns chasing and pinning each other as they all practice being the top dog and the bottom dog. Inappropriate play can happen when the puppies get too wound up and one or more of the siblings turn into playground bullies! It is very important to supervise their playtime and step in when a “time out” is needed.

When you see puppies interacting with adult dogs, you will often see that the adult dogs will pretend to be subordinate to a puppy in order to build their confidence. The adults will even exhibit play-eliciting gestures like the “play bow” to encourage the puppies to play. When the adult dog resumes its role as leader, the puppy is given a lesson in respecting the pack’s hierarchy.

Play time is not only great fun but it teaches them important skills such as bite inhibition, canine communication and important lessons such as what is acceptable and what isn’t as they interact with each other and other animals. This is where puppies develop problem solving abilities and the physical and mental skills needed for a happy and successful life.

 

The Fear Periods

Since dogs can and do become fearful of specific things at any time during their life, we want to emphasize that we are taking about specific fear periods that dogs go through during their developmental stages.

First Fear Period (Weeks 8 to 10)

The first fear period is believed to be genetically tied to survival in the wild when puppies starting to explore their world. Under the guidance of their mother, they would learn what was threatening and what was not and any lack of caution could be life threatening. This fear and caution has carried over to domestic dogs.

Since puppies are sensitive to anything they perceive as threatening, anything that frightens a puppy at this stage can have a lasting impact on their lives. It is, therefore, particularly important that puppies are not overly-stimulated by too many challenges during this period.

Responsible breeders have learned that the longer the puppies are allowed interaction with their mother and littermates, the easier it is for them to adjust to changes they encounter. When you consider that the first fear period for most puppies occurs at 8 weeks of age, which is also traditionally the age most puppies are released to their new families, it makes sense that breeders are now keeping their puppies a week or two longer.

Some puppies may never show any differences during the first fear period while others may become fearful of sounds, people, things and/or situations they once accepted. These puppies may show their fear by being overly cautious or overly defensive.

The key to overcoming the puppy’s fear is through counter conditioning and positive reinforcement. As an example, if your puppy is walking by a chair just as a newspaper falls from the chair to the floor, the puppy will make the association that newspapers are scary things. If you place a treat on top of the newspaper and coax the puppy to get the treat, the scary newspaper now becomes something good.

Positive reinforcement rewards good behavior and ignores bad or unwanted behavior. It can be done through the use of food or praise and affection. The idea is to make every experience fun and/or positive for the puppy whether it is a trip to the vet, a ride in a car or a walk in the park where the puppy will encounter various new stimuli.

 

Second Fear Period (6 to 14 months)

The second fear period is believed to be tied to the dog’s sexual maturity and growth spurts. Owners will notice their dog has suddenly become a complete uncooperative mess! Fear may pop out of nowhere with the dog reacting defensively by barking, lunging and pulling on their leash.

Once again, making a comparison to dogs in the wild, the dogs from this age group were allowed to hunt with the mature dogs in the pack. Fear was a necessary component for survival purposes and staying with the pack was an absolute necessity.

Now that you have a much bigger dog to contend with, what do you do to keep him or her under control? The same thing that you would for the puppy: counter conditioning and positive reinforcement. Pretend it is not a big deal – ignoring the huge scene your dog just made can be hard but you must let your dog understand that whatever it is he’s afraid of is not a big deal. Never become critical, tense or punish your dog’s fearful reaction – stay calm and reassuring.

It is also crucial to avoid any traumatic experiences during this period. Continued socialization and building confidence through training, performance sports and exercises all keep your dog in good physical and mental condition.

 

Raindance Dobermans

We will now take a look at the last entry at Susan and Chelsea James’ Birthing Log. It has been an extreme pleasure working with them on this project. As I read through this last entry, tears started to form in my eyes. I felt the bittersweet emotion that Susan must have felt when she let each puppy go to their new home.

I’m sure we’ll all be hearing more about these puppies in the future as they enter the conformation ring or participate in performance sports. If any of you are interested in contacting Susan James of Raindance Dobermans, please email her at rainddobes@aol.com. Raindance also has a website at www.raindancedobes.com.

 

Genesis and Dante Birthing Log

8 to 10 weeks

All the puppies are doing great. We’re gaining weight nicely and their individual personalities are very obvious. They were all outgoing and very loving.

The crew first well visit to my Veterinarian at 7 weeks is a positive experience for them. They had a full exam and fecal test. They were all just so adorable and calm upon examination. All received a clean bill of health.

The Puppies ears were cropped at 8 weeks and all went well. I separated them each with their own pen for about a week.

Each had their own water bucket and fluffy bed. They were a bit sad to be separated, but adjusted fine.

At feeding time I did have them all together. Their ears were healing beautifully and their little Shriner hats did not bother them one bit.

At about 9.5 weeks the cups were off and I started posting their ears. They all got a beautiful long show crop.

I did put them back together again, rotating alone time in a crate for each and every one. I made sure when they were placed in a crate, they were very tired from playing and had a full belly. I also gave them a big marrow bone to chew on.

We had many visitors for play time with the puppies. It was such a joy to watch them interact with strangers. All confident, friendly and so happy.

At 8 weeks we brought the puppies for Kelly Marquis to see. Kelly is a co-breeder on this litter and she was very excited to see how they were turning out. It was their first long road trip and they were so fantastic. They were little troopers.

After the 8-9 week evaluation, I started making decisions about which puppy was going to which new owner.

It was a very bitter sweet time for me…They were getting older and did need their own Mommy and Daddy to give them all the extra attention on a one-on-one basis.

5 puppies were placed some to people that already had one of my babies or had been waiting for a Raindance Puppy for awhile. Two remained with me for a while longer.

I held onto Ariane and Sorin. I wanted to let them grow out a bit and secretly wanted to keep them.

I felt Ariane and Sorin had to go to fantastic show homes and if I could not find one, they would stay with me with Chelsea, my daughter and partner in Raindance, would show them to their Championship.

I was falling in love with these two little monsters but knew the right homes would come along and it finally happened. Sigh.

Empty Nest after 5 months of nurturing and love – my puppies certainly left a hole in my heart.

I love my babies and keep in touch with all the owners. They are all fantastic families which send me updates and photos on a regular basis.

I am so looking forward to seeing my babies in the ring so keep an eye out for my beautiful Raindance kids. This entire line bred litter is lovely and all deserve a title. Looking back on choosing the sire to compliment my Genesis, I feel I made the right choice and very proud of what this breeding gave me.

Sorin-8 weeks

Sorin-8 weeks

Luna-8 weeks

Luna-8 weeks

Olaf-8 weeks

Olaf-8 weeks

Airane-8 weeks

Airane-8 weeks

Scarlett-8 weeks

Scarlett-8 weeks

Kato-8 weeks

Kato-8 weeks

Lochlan-8 weeks

Lochlan-8 weeks

Here are their names:

Boys

Raindance In His Image—Sorin (yellow collar)

Raindance Fulfilling the Prophecy—Lochlan (blue collar)

Raindance Delivered From Evil—Kato (lime collar)

Raindance East Of Eden—Olaf (red collar)

Girls

Raindance Forbidden Fruit of Marquis—Airane (purple collar)

Raindance Fire & Brimstone—Scarlett (hot pink collar)

Raindance Light of Darkness—Luna (teal collar)

I hope you all enjoyed getting a glimpse of how I breed and raise a litter. For me it is one of the most rewarding parts of my life.

Susan and Chelsea James

Raindance Dobermans

www.raindancedobes.com

 

Sorin-10 weeks

Sorin-10 weeks

Luna-10 weeks

Luna-10 weeks

Airane-10 weeks

Airane-10 weeks

Lochlan-10 weeks

Lochlan-10 weeks

 

 

Sorin-12 weeks

Sorin-12 weeks

Ariane-12 weeks

Ariane-12 weeks

Selecting a Puppy

by Tracey Biscontini

Black Doberman puppies in basketIf you’re choosing a puppy from a litter, begin by evaluating the litter as a whole. If most of the puppies run away from you, don’t buy one. Healthy puppies should be happy and playful. They might nibble at your shoes or scamper toward you. If the litter is behaving normally, look at each of the puppies individually. Cluck your tongue and jingle your car keys and watch how the puppies react. Don’t select the shyest puppy. Shy puppies almost always grow up to be shy adults. Don’t select the boldest puppy either. A middle- of-the-road puppy almost always makes the best  pet. Never adopt a puppy unless you’re sure it’s healthy. Healthy puppies shouldn’t cough, sneeze, or wheeze. Inspect the puppy’s coat and its eyes, ears, dewclaws, and tail.

Coat. To examine a puppy’s coat, run your hand over its fur and make sure you don’t see any bald spots. While a puppy’s coat is  certainly nothing like an adult’s–it’s thinner and fuzzier–it should be even and soft. Examine the puppy’s skin and make certain it’s free of red splotches. Make sure the puppy doesn’t have fleas.

Eyes. Examine the puppy’s eyes. Young puppies might have blue eyes that will change with age. The puppy’s eyes should be clear, however, and they shouldn’t be runny.

Ears. Make sure the pup’s ears are clean inside. If you’re buying a purebred puppy and its ears are supposed to prick up, be aware that puppies’ ears don’t stand for about 12 weeks. In addition, the ears sometimes go up and down during teething.

Dewclaws and tail. If you’re buying a purebred puppy from a breeder, make sure its dewclaws have been removed. If your breed is supposed to have its tail docked, this should already be done too.

More Articles:

Buying a Doberman Pinscher

Is the Doberman the Right Breed for You?

Breeders & Contracts

How do you, as a prospective Doberman owner, go about finding a “perfect breeder”?   The best answer is to  TAKE  YOUR  TIME & CAREFULLY SCRUTINIZE  EACH  BREEDER!

A  “BREEDER” is an ethical, intelligent& caring individual, whose involvement in the Doberman Breed is one of  LOVE for the Breed—they want to PROTECT & ONLY DO WHAT’S RIGHT for the Breed.   They have invested years of their time and dedicated large sums of money to exhibit their Dobermans to the highest levels of achievement in the various venues that allow them to select only the”BEST & SUPERIOR” Dobermans to continue the propagation of the Breed.
A “BREEDER”  cares about the QUALITY of the Dobermans they breed.   They research pedigrees and search for the “right” BLOODLINES to combine together.   They are looking only for the very BEST that the Doberman Breed has to offer—because only in this way will the Doberman Breed continue to improve and the problems that are innately there be corrected.

A “BREEDER” should be familiar with the Dobermans in the pedigrees that they are combining and using to enhance their breeding “plan”.   Because they are concerned about HEALTH PROBLEMS in the Doberman Breed, they test and screen and expect the other BREEDERS that they associate with and have business dealings with, also care and do the same.

REPUTABLE BREEDERS want what’s best for the Doberman Breed, and so they associate themselves with Organizations that seek to “promote, protect and improve” the Doberman such as the DOBERMAN PINSCHER CLUB OF AMERICA and other CHAPTER CLUBS that are associated with the DPCA.  Many REPUTABLE BREEDERS are also associated with ALL BREED KENNEL CLUBS in their area.   This shows that the Breeder is concerned about the over-all Dog Community, also.

TALK TO THE BREEDER at length. Ask about their AFFILIATION with the DOBERMAN PINSCHER CLUB OF AMERICA. It would be a good starting point that the Breeder you buy a puppy from belongs to the DPCA.   The DPCA has a CODE OF ETHICS that it’s membership abides by concerning breeding, puppy sales and other matters related to the moral and ethical responsibility they have as BREEDERS who bring puppies into the world that they feel personally responsible for.  Many DPCA members also belong to local Doberman Chapter Clubs—ASK THE BREEDER IF THEY BELONG TO THE DPCA OR A CHAPTER CLUB.   If in doubt, contact the DPCA to inquire and check their MEMBERSHIP.  This doesn’t GUARANTEE that every member is an exceptional BREEDER—but it does say that they care enough to pay their dues every year and take the oath to follow the CODE OF ETHICS in their dealings with their Dobermans and the PUBLIC as well as fellow members.

Ask about their LENGTH OF TIME in the Breed.   Ask about their SUCCESS in the CONFORMATION,  OBEDIENCE OR AGILITY VENUES.   Ask how many CHAMPIONS they have bred and if the SIRE (father)  and  DAM (mother) of the puppies are CHAMPIONS.   Ask to SEE the REGISTRATION CERTIFICATES of the DAM and the PUPPY REGISTRATION PAPERS (first step in permanent registration) for the puppies.   If the REGISTRATION PAPERS are not available make sure you have the FULL name and REGISTRATION NUMBERS FOR BOTH SIRE AND DAM.    WITHOUT THESE, YOU CANNOT  “TRACK” THE REGISTRATION PROCESS AND CHECK ON YOUR PUPPY’S REGISTRATION.  A reputable Breeder will have all these papers in order for you to see and examine.   Make sure you also have a copy of the puppy’s “PEDIGREE”.   The PEDIGREE is NOT the REGISTRATION of the puppy.   It only tells  you the lineage of the puppy—it’s parents (Sire & Dam), it’s grand parents, it’s great grand parents, and on back.   Most breeders will give you a 4 or 5 generation PEDIGREE for your records.

People who are “BACKYARD BREEDERS”  OR  “BYBs”  don’t care about all the showing and expense of truly promoting the Breed.   They just basically want to make some money without have to invest their own time and  “BLOOD,  SWEAT  &  TEARS”  into properly breeding and raising a litter of Dobermans.   Most  BYBs DON’T CROP  the puppies ears.   They usually sell them right after they are weaned and after their first shots  so they don’t have the added expense and worry and work of cropping and taping a litter of puppies.   EXAMINE the PEDIGREE closely and the REGISTRATION PAPERS closely. If the Sire and Dam and the Dobermans in the PEDIGREE are  “CHAMPIONS” each name will have a  CH.  in front of the Registered name.  An example would be:  Ch. Red Boy’s Pretty Girl.
If the Dobermans in the Pedigree and on the Registration Papers have other working degrees, they will come after the name of the Doberman, such as: Ch. Red Boy’s Pretty Girl, CD, NA, TT

If the Pedigree and the Registration Papers don’t have the  “CH.”  or working titles such as  “CD,  CDX,  NA”  the Doberman is NOT a Champion and does NOT have working titles.   LACK OF these titles is a  “RED FLAG” and it may mean that the Breeder is simply not concerned with improving the Doberman Breed and is mainly concerned with making a  “QUICK BUCK”.  Not all Quality Dobermans necessarily have a title either in Conformation or in the Working venues.  Some have the CH. and no working titles.  Some have a working title but no CH. title.  But when you see the pedigree  FULL of dogs that have obviously been taken out and campaigned for their titles it says the breeder cares about these venues that enhance the testing of the dog’s abilities.

Don’t be fooled into thinking that some of the “Registry” letters in front of a Dobermans  REGISTERED NAME is a “TITLE” of some kind.   Unscrupulous breeders often put these in FRONT of the name of the Doberman because they are trying to fool the buyer into thinking it is the same as a CHAMPION bestowed by the AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB  or  the CANADIAN KENNEL CLUB!!”BEWARE”!!   It will look like this:    CKC, FCI  Mr. I’m Lookin Good. The letters SEEM like they mean something impressive and good, but the breeder is just trying to make it appear that the dog is more than it is—which is probably just a pet from another  “BYB”!!!     SO,  BE CAREFUL!!   ASK QUESTIONS!!   A successful Breeder should have MANY PHOTO’S of their Dobermans from the SHOW OR WORKING VENUES.   If there are just a bunch of cute photos of “Susie” laying in the grass, or sleeping on the sofa—-“RED FLAG”.    Breeding GOOD DOBERMANS is difficult, at best.

Contracts are encouraged by the DPCA CODE of ETHICS, because they spell out the terms of the sale of the puppy.   It is clearly stated what each party is expected to abide by and there are no assumptions by either the buyer or seller.   When you talk to a Breeder and they say they have a contract for the sale of their puppies, this is a good thing, as it is protection for both parties.   Many “BYB” don’t worry or care what happens after the puppy is sold.   They’ve got their “money” and  “BUYER BEWARE” !

submitted by
Theresa Mullen
DPCA Public Education Committee

Buyer Beware

Definition of terms – *puppy farmer: person who breeds dogs as commercial livestock without effort applied to improving the breed *dog broker: person who acts as a middleman in the transaction of dog to buyer. He may buy the dog and resell it at a profit or may receive a commission *puppy mills: commercial dog breeding operations which may or may not keep dogs in humane conditions but who are focused on producing as many dogs as possible at as high a profit margin as possible without concerted effort toward turning out a quality product US puppy mill activity and importing by brokers reveals that*dog auction: run exactly like livestock auctions where high bidder takes the animal home An ongoing investigation of dog brokering, dog auctions,  US puppy mill activity and importing by brokers reveals that we are facing a new challenge in our breed. There is increased activity in puppy farmers’ including all purebred dogs in their inventories of brood animals. We are seeing an increase also in smaller (one dog owners) using bitches who were sold with limited registrations as unsuitable breeding stock, using these bitches for breeding and selling the pups as unregistered.

Responsible breeders will provide a copy of an AKC registration certificate for the sire and dam of any pup offered for sale.

There’s also an increase in activity in importation by brokers. The imported dogs are sold without their owners having contact with the dogs’ breeders nor information on the dog’s familial background.. Registration of puppies by foreign parents may or may not be possible. Assurance of purebred status is questionable until the foreign pedigree of an import has undergone the scrutiny of the American Kennel Club. Make sure you’re getting a purebred dog by requiring proof that the parents of the dog are registered with the AKC on full privilege registrations or that the dog, itself, if imported, is registered with the AKC before you pay for it. If an imported dog is to be
registered with the AKC, this must be done by the importer. Dobermans are being offered at public auctions, events whose patrons are puppy farmers. These puppy farmers set up future suppliers for brokerages and auctions. Puppy farmers sell other puppy farmers who in turn sell to brokers who sell to pet stores who sell to buyers who have no contact with the producer of the pup and not knowledge of familial history of health.. Such producers do not know where their pups wind up and subsequently cannot follow up on the progeny of their programs. Their breeding decisions are based on factors unrelated to familial genetics because they cannot know the genetics without tracking the progeny of their programs. Responsible
breeders do not sell dogs to brokers or through agents or brokers to persons
unknown to the breeder of the dog. The public is discouraged from buying
dogs through brokers in such cases where they will have no contact with their pup’s breeder.

The puppymill industry has set up several registries to combat the challenges the AKC placed before them by instituting the frequently used sires program. Included are these undesirable registries:
FIC (federation of international canines)
CKC (continental kennel club) )
These acronyms are remarkably similar to the legitimate registries, FCI (Federation Cynologique Internationale) and CKC (Canadian Kennel Club). It is possible that imported puppies will be touted to be registered with the FIC. PLEASE pass word along to the public to beware of these puppymill registries.

We need to get the word out RESPONSIBLE BREEDERS PROVIDE COPIES OF American Kennel Club or Canadian Kennel Club REGISTRATION CERTIFICATES FOR ALL SIRES AND DAMS of pups offered for sale. This is to assure that the parents were registered with the AKC as breeding potential animals and that they are purebred.

To be registered with the AKC, ALL imported dogs MUST be registered by the importer. Do NOT be victimized by exploitive importers. REQUIRE AKC registration BEFORE spending money on any imported dog. The dog may not be purebred if it is not registered with the AKC.

Want more info?

Red Flags

Heimlich Maneuver

TYPE 1
* Lay the animal on its side.
* Put one hand on its spine and the other hand on its belly.
* With the hand on belly , push inward and upward with quick short motions.
* Look in mouth for object and remove.

TYPE 2
* Lift the animal off the ground and hold it vertically (head up and spine against your chest.)
* With arms around belly push inward and upward with quick short motions.
* Check mouth for object and remove.

TYPE 3
* Kneel behind the standing animal.
* Place hands under belly just below the rib cage.
* Push inward and upward with quick,short motions.
* Check mouth and remove any object.

Remember you have about 4 minutes!!

Animal CPR

For the EMS Provider and Pet Owner

Lori H. Feldman, DVM
Henry J. Feldman, MA EMT-M
(c) 1996

Dr. Feldman is a Massachusetts and New York Licensed Veterinarian and a member of the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society. This document is primarliy aimed at EMS and Emergency Medical personel who may encounter animals in arrest.
Pet owners should consult their veterinarian for specific details on procedures outlined here.


AIRWAY

The first step in animal CPR, after determining non-responsiveness, is to obtain a patent airway.
You should not continue on,  until this step has been achieved.
Carefully pull the tongue out of the animal’s mouth

WARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!!
Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck.
WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists Attempt 2 rescue breaths, by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they go in with no problems continue to Breathing. If not, then reposition the neck and try again.

  • Visibly inspect the airway by looking into the mouth, and down the throat for foreign objects occluding the airway.
  • Unlike human-CPR, rescuers may reach into the airway and remove foreign objects that are visible
  • Proceed to the Heimlich maneuver


HEIMLICH

After unsuccessfully attempting to ventilate:

  • Turn the animal upside down, with its back against your chest
  • With both arms, give 5 sharp thrusts (bear hugs) to the abdomen. Perform each thrust as if it is the one that will expel the object
  • Stop, check to see if the object is visible in the airway, if so, remove it and give 2 mouth-nose rescue breaths. If the breaths do not go in, go back and repeat the thrusts.
  • Use gravity to help you expel the object


Do not proceed with CPR, even if the animal goes into cardiac arrest. You must clear the airway first.

BREATHING
After achieving a patent airway, one must determine whether the animal is breathing, and whether this breathing is effective:
Carefully pull the tongue out of the animal’s mouth
WARNING: even an unresponsive dog may bite by instinct!!
Make sure that the neck is reasonably straight; try to bring the head in-line with the neck.
WARNING: Do not hyperextend in cases where neck trauma exists
Ventilate the animal by closing the mouth, and performing mouth-to-nose ventilations. If they do go in
with ease go to Airway.

AIRWAY
Ventilate at 20 breaths per minute If supplemental Oxygen is available, and the animal is breathing on its own,
use a high-flow blowby.
WARNING: Do not attempt to intubate the animal, without prior training, and properly sized ET tubes.
Proceed to Circulation, while continuing respiratory support as necessary.

CIRCULATION
This is the final step of CPR and should only be initiated after the airway and breathing steps have been completed:
Make sure that there are no major (pooling/spurting blood) points of bleeding. Control as necessary
Lay the animal on its right side
Locate your hands where its left elbow touches the chest. Approximately the middle of the rib-cage
Compress the chest 15 times followed by 2 rescue breaths (3 compressions every 2 seconds)
Compress

  • 1/2″ – small dogs
  • 1″ – medium dogs <
  • 1.5″ – large dogs
  • Repeat as necessary

Important:
Animals do not have palpable carotid pulses. You can only obtain a femoral pulse in the inguinal crease.
(Palpate carefully on a conscious dog!)

During an emergency it is very important that you remain calm. Animals can sense your unease, but cannot understand what is happening and you cannot verbally tell them. Your body language is very important. Be calm, yet deliberate in your actions. When you determine that you either have corrected the life-threatening problem, or are unable to stabilize the animal, you should transport to the nearest emergency veterinary hospital.

Notify your emergency clinic that you are coming in with a dog in respiratory arrest with a foreign body airway obstruction and/or cardiac arrest.

Give them the following information via phone if possible:

  • Your name
  • Your ETA (estimated time of arrival)
  • Steps taken (CPR, O2…)
  • Breed/size
  • If a foreign body, what the suspected object is
  • If a poison or medication has been ingested
  • Mechanism of injury (hit by car…)

Bloat Kit

Many long time owners and breeders have seen first hand how quickly bloat can overcome their Dobermans.

This “Bloat Kit” with directions is intended for those who are familiar with bloat and it’s emergency treatment.

This is NOT intended for the unexperienced pet owner and is NOT to be used without veterinary guidance.

BLOAT FIRST AID

The procedures in this document should be used to provide first aid only to dogs in a bloat condition. They are not intended to replace prompt, professional treatment by a qualified veterinarian. Please read and understand these instructions completely before attempting the first aid procedures described herein.
Some symptoms may be anxiety, evidence of abdominal fullness after meals, heavy salivating, whining, pacing, getting  up and lying down, stretching, looking at abdomen, unproductive attempts to vomit, labored breathing, disinterest in food, and stilted gait. Severe symptoms, such as dark red, blue, grey or white gums, a rapid heartbeat and a weak pulse are normally followed by prostration and death.

Recommended Bloat Kit Contents:
*Instructions for use
*Stethoscope
*Rolls of tape (3 rolls, 1 in. x 10 yd)
*Stomach tube (2) (different diameters). 5 ft. length bevelled at one end, with two holes drilled in tube 2 & 3 inches up from the bevelled end. Pre-measured and marked for each Doberman in the household
*14 gauge or larger needles (2) (1 1/2″ to 3″ length)
*K. Y. jelly
*Gas absorbent (Digel, GasEase, etc)

BLOAT PHASES, SYMPTOMS AND RECOMMENDED ACTIONS
PHASE 1:
SYMPTOMS: Pacing, restlessness, panting and salivating, unproductive attempts to vomit (every 10-20 minutes). Abdomen exhibits fullness and beginning to enlarge.
ACTIONS:
Call Veterinarian to advise of bloat case enroute. Transport dog to Veterinarian immediately.
PHASE 2
SYMPTOMS: Very restless, whining, panting continuously, heavy salivating. Unproductive attempts to vomit (every 2-3 minutes), Dark red gumS, High heart rate (80 to 100 BPM). Abdomen is enlarged and tight, emits hollow sound when thumped.
ACTIONS:
Apply first aid if Veterinarian care is more than 10 minutes away. Then, transport dog to Veterinarian immediately.
PHASE 3
SYMPTOMS: Gums are white or blue Dog unable to stand or has a spread-legged, shaky stance. Abdomen is very enlarged. Extremely high heart rate (100 BPM or greater)and weak pulse.
ACTIONS:
Death is imminent! Apply first aid immediately. Transport dog to Veterinarian as soon as possible (even while applying first aid if possible).

Recommend a copy of this table be available as a quick, ready reference wherever Dobermans are located (home, kennel, RV, van, etc).

Listen to the dog’s heartbeat using a stethoscope if possible. If a stethoscope is not available, use your ears and eyes. The heartbeat can be best heard on the left side of the dog’s chest just behind the elbow and is strong enough to be visible on the chest wall . A normal heartbeat is irregular when the dog is resting and often consists of a double beat (thump…thump…thump-thump…thump…thump, etc). Using a timepiece with a second hand, count the number of heartbeats for 10 seconds. Multiply the number of heartbeats x 6 to find the Beats Per Minute (BPM) (12 beats x 6 = 72 BPM, etc.). The normal heart rate/pulse rate of a large breed dog is 60-80 BPM. Take the pulse rate of the dog by pressing your fingers inside the dog’s rear leg just below where it joins the body. At this location, you can feel a cord-like structure called the Femoral Artery.  Count the pulses for a ten second period and multiply by six to determine the rate of the dog’s pulse (same procedure as discussed above). You can also observe the strength of the pulse at this location.
When your dog is showing any of the bloat symptoms you should:

  • Attempt to determine the bloat phase he may be in.
  • Call your veterinarian, discuss symptoms and ask for guidance.

*If you conclude your dog is in phase 1 bloat and you can reach your veterinarian within 30 minutes, do not apply first aid procedures. Go directly to the veterinarian.
* If you conclude your dog is in phase 2 bloat and you cannot reach your veterinarian within 10 minutes you should attempt to insert a stomach tube before going to the veterinarian.
*For phase 3 bloat, if you cannot reach your veterinarian within 10 minutes apply first aid immediately. Attempt to insert a stomach tube. If this is not acomplished quickly, you should use Trocharization procedures to relieve the gas pressure! Death is imminent!

DOGS MAY GO TO PHASE 3 BLOAT WITHOUT SEEMINGLY GOING THROUGH PHASES 1 OR 2. PHASE 3 CAN BE FATAL IN MINUTES. BE ALERT!

PROCEDURE

Pre-measure and mark each stomach tube for each Doberman in the household. To do this, place the dog in a sit position. Measure the stomach tube on the outside of the dog from the front of the mouth to the last rib and mark the tube at the front of the mouth with a piece of tape

Remove an eighteen inch strip of tape from the tape roll. Insert the roll of tape in the dog’s mouth behind the front teeth. Ensure the tape roll hole is pointed toward the dog’s front and rear. Using the strip of removed tape, tightly bind the dog’s muzzle with the roll of tape in position.
Lubricate the bevelled end of the stomach tube with K. Y. jelly (be careful not to plug up the tube holes with the jelly).
Carefully insert the tube into the dog’s mouth through the hole in the tape roll . Some resistance will be felt when the tube reaches the dog’s throat. However, the dog will start to swallow as you push the tube deeper into the throat and the  tube should enter the esophagus with little resistance. It the dog does not swallow the tube or the tube seems stuck, gently move the tube back and forth until it enters the esophagus.
Once the tube is in the esophagus, gently blow through the tube as you advance it toward the stomach.
This will expand the esophagus and allow the tube to pass more easily.
The tube may encounter a resistance when it reaches the stomach because of muscle spasms in the stomach valve or twisting of the stomach (torsion). If this happens, blow more strongly through the tube while turning the tube in a clockwise direction. If the tube does not enter the  stomach, continue blowing and carefully turn the tube back and forth.  You will feel a quick, forward movement of the tube when it enters the stomach.

Caution! Do not insert the tube too far into the stomach and pierce the stomach wall. Immediately remove the tube from your mouth. Gas will be expelled through the tube as it enters the stomach. Fluids will follow the gas.
After the gas and fluids stop, you should squeeze the dog’s abdomen to remove as much of the remaining stomach contents as possible. To do this, stand over the dog facing the same direction as the dog. Grasp the dog with locked wrists around the abdomen and squeeze firmly. Continue to remove the stomach contents for five/ten minutes.
Cover the end of the tube with your thumb and carefully remove the tube from the dog. Then, transport the dog to the veterinarian immediately.

If you are unsuccessful in inserting the tube into the stomach after five minutes, it is probably not possible to pass a stomach tube.

If you are unable to pass a stomach tube and the dog displays phase 3 bloat symptoms, you have a very short time to act to save the dog’s life. By this time, the dog will normally be gasping for air and unable to stand. The abdomen will be very distended and sound like a drum when thumped. The heart rate will be over 100 BPM and the gums will be white, blue or grey.

Trocharization must take place immediately. This action can save your dog’s life. The veterinarian will appreciate the fact that you took the Trocharization action and brought in a dog that has a chance of recovery.

Locate the last rib on the dog’s left side. The stomach is located on the left side of the dog’s abdomen under the last few ribs (you will not have any problem finding the stomach because it will be very distended).
Remove the cap from the 14 gauge needle.
Firmly grasp the blunt end of the needle and with a sharp motion, stab the needle into the dog’s stomach on the left side behind the last rib (figure 7). Gas will be expelled immediately through the needle. Do not be concerned about hurting the dog because he is already in such intense pain from the bloat and torsion he will not notice the pain from the needle.

Squeeze the abdomen then remove the needle. Immediately transport to a veterinarian.

Bloat

By Carrie Gustavson
Information Specialist
University of Illinois
College of Veterinary Medicine

People can pig out on Halloween goodies,
or anything else for that matter, without
it coming back to haunt them. But, for
some dogs who overindulge, even on plain old food and water, their stomach may inflate like a balloon and twist on itself
— a canine horror story.

Food is sometimes the cause of a dilated stomach, but often a dog’s stomach will
mysteriously dilate, or bloat, for no known reason. Either way, bloat is a medical
emergency, and the puffed-up pooch will need veterinary help as soon as possible.

Bloating and twisting of a dog’s stomach is a serious condition veterinarians call GASTRIC DILATION VOLVULUS
or GDV.

Overeating, especially in predisposed breeds, may cause GDV,
but often there is no underlying cause, making this disease one that is baffling to
veterinarians and to owners alike. “A dog with GDV will have a distended abdomen and
may appear restless and depressed and have dry heaves,” says Dr. Cathy Greenfield, small
animal surgeon at the University of Illinois Veterinary Teaching Hospital in Urbana. “A
common history is that he may have just eaten or drunk a large amount of food or water.
But most of the time there is no underlying cause for GDV.”

While the exact cause of GDV is unknown, a dog’s anatomy is thought to play a significant
role. Since the stomach of a dog is securely fixed only at one spot near the top, when the
stomach is full or dilated, it can easily rotate on that one fixed axis. If that happens, not only
is the stomach distension painful, but the blood vessels that feed the stomach are kinked
and stretched as the stomach twists. With reduced circulation to the stomach, the lining of
the stomach can die or be damaged enough to allow bacteria and toxins to enter the
bloodstream.

In addition, the distended stomach can put pressure on major veins, blocking blood flow
back to the heart. Without the normal blood flow to the heart, blood pressure will plunge
and a dog can easily go into shock.

A dog’s breed and age also play a role in GDV. “Deep-chested, large breeds, such as
Weimaraners, Doberman pinschers, German shepherds, standard poodles, Great Danes,
Saint Bernards, Irish setters, and Gordon setters, are affected most commonly. Shar-peis,
basset hounds, and springer spaniels are the medium-size breeds that may be predisposed,”
says Dr. Greenfield. “GDV can occur in any age dog, but more commonly it occurs in
middle-aged to older dogs.”

With all the complications associated with bloat, it’s not surprising that mortality rates are
very high with this disease. “With GDV, owners need to get the dog to a veterinarian
immediately. Successful emergency treatment involves relieving the pressure within the
stomach and treatment for shock. In most cases, treatment will also involve emergency
surgery to untwist the stomach and “tack” it in place to prevent future reoccurrence of the
stomach twisting,” says Dr. Greenfield.

The surgical procedure for GDV is called a gastropexy. In it, the stomach is attached to the
body wall to prevent twisting, or future episodes of volvulus. “Recurrent volvulus can be
pretty effectively managed with gastropexy, but dilatation may still occur. Owners should be
vigilant in observing their dog for any signs of trouble,” says Dr. Greenfield.

Especially if your dog is a breed that is prone to GDV, feed smaller meals more often and
limit the amount of water consumed after exercise. Talk to your local small animal
veterinarian for more information about GDV

For more information on BLOAT:

Bloat in dogs
First aid for bloat
Bloat the mother of all emergencies

Poisoning

Your animal may become poisoned in spite of your best efforts to prevent it. BE PREPARED!

You should keep the telephone numbers for your veterinarian, ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center and a local emergency veterinary service in a convenient location.

If you suspect that your pet has been exposed to a poison, it is important not to panic

In the event that you need to take your animal to your local veterinarian, be sure to take with you any product container. Also bring any material your pet may have vomited or chewed, collected in a zip-lock bag.

Here are some potential items that can injure your dog:

FOOD HAZARDS
Onions, onion powder Chocolate (bakers, semi sweet, milk, dark) Alcoholic beverages, Yeast dough, Coffee (grounds, beans, chocolate covered espresso beans) Tea (caffeine), Salt, Macadamia nuts, Hops (used in home beer brewing)
Tomato leaves and stems (green parts), Potato leaves and stems (green parts,) Rhubarb leaves.

AUTOMOTIVE SUPPLIES
Automotive products such as gasoline, oil and antifreeze should be stored in areas that are inaccessible to your pets. Propylene glycol is a safer form of antifreeze. Sierra brand antifreeze contains propylene glycol and is recommended to use in pet households. Less than one tablespoon can be lethal to a 20 pound dog.

FLEA PRODUCTS
Before buying a flea product, consult your veterinarian, especially when treating sick, debilitated or pregnant pets. Read all of the information on the label before using a product on your pet or in your home.

PLANTS
Be aware of the plants you have in your home and yard. The ingestion of azalea, oleander, castor bean, sago palm, Easter lily or yew plant material by an animal can be fatal.

CLEANING SUPPLIES
Never allow your pets to have access to the areas in which cleaning agents are being used or stored. Cleaning agents have a variety of properties; some may only cause mild stomach upset, but others can cause severe burns of the tongue, mouth and stomach.

PESTICIDES
When using rat, mouse, snail or slug baits, or ant or roach traps, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your companion animals. Most baits contain ingredients that can attract your pets. Make sure your pets do not go on lawns or in gardens treated with fertilizers, herbicides or insecticides until they have dried completely. Always store such products in areas that are inaccessible
to your companion animals.

MEDICATIONS
Never give your companion animals medication unless you are directed to do so by a veterinarian. Many medications that are safe for humans can be deadly for animals. TYLENOL is toxic to dogs! Keep all drugs out of your pets’ reach, preferably in closed cabinets. Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, vitamins and diet pills are all examples of human medications that can be lethal to animals, even in small doses. For example, one 200mg ibuprofen tablet could cause stomach ulcers in a small dog, and as few as 6 could cause kidney failure.

HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS
Many common household items can be lethal to animals. Mothballs, potpourri oils, coffee grounds, homemade play dough, fabric softener sheets, dishwashing detergent, batteries, cigarettes, alcoholic drinks and hand and foot warmers are potentially toxic.

compiled by
Cathy Kendrick
DPCA Public Education Committee

Dog First Aid Kit

Dog owners can treat minor injuries for their pets if they have the appropriate remedies, tools, and equipment available. The following items were included in a first aid kit that the Cincinnati Veterinary Medical Association gave to police dog handlers at a recent workshop. A home first aid kit needs many of the same items.
· Gauze sponges — 50 four-by-four inch sponges, two per envelope
· Triple antibiotic ointment
· Rubbing alcohol
· Ear syringe — two ounce capacity
· Ace self-adhering athletic bandage –three-inch width
· White petroleum jelly (Vaseline or similar)
· Eye wash
· Sterile, non-adherent pads
· Pepto Bismol tablets
· Generic Benadryl capsules — 25mg, for allergies
· Hydrocortisone Ointment – one percent
· Sterile stretch gauze bandage — three inches by four yards
· Buffered aspirin
· Dermicil hypoallergenic cloth tape one inch by 10 yards
· Hydrogen peroxide
· Kaopectate tablets maximum strength
· Bandage scissors
· Custom splints
· Vet Rap bandage

Other suggested items were:
· Blanket
· Tweezers
· Muzzle
· Hemostats
· Rectal thermometer
· Ziplock bags
· Paperwork, including the dog’s health record, medications, local and national poison control numbers, regular veterinary clinic hours and telephone numbers, and emergency clinic hours and telephone number.

Basic First Aid

What to do prior to rushing your pet to a vet:

· Bleeding: apply direct pressure with a
clean cloth.

· Heatstroke: move your pet into the shade
or indoors, and hose them down with cool water. Then place towels soaked with cold water over your pet, and ice packs in the armpits, along the belly, or between the
legs.

· Fractures: restrict movement, wrap or
splint the limb, and cover any open wounds with a clean cloth.

· Suspected poison ingestion: bring the container/label of the poison you suspect or know your pet ingested to your vet.

· Eye trauma: prevent further trauma by stopping your pet from
pawing at or rubbing a painful eye. If you have an E-collar, place it around your pet€™s neck. If the eye is
protruding from the socket, place a moist clean cloth over the eye.

· Shock: wrap your pet in a blanket to conserve body heat, loosen or remove any collar, and clear the mouth of any
fluid or food.

For all emergencies, always seek veterinary assistance immediately.
An emergency is easier to prevent than to treat; here are a few tips to help safeguard your Doberman.:

· Keep all dangerous substances in a pet-proof cupboard

· Pick up any pills or capsules that fall to the floor
· Be aware of your Doberman when opening an outside door and keep them on a leash when out of a fenced-in yard.

· Ask your local vet what plants are toxic in your local area, and be sure you have none in your house or yard.

· Always transport your Doberman in a kennel.

· If you know your animal has a storm phobia, keep them indoors if bad weather is likely.

· The benefit of annual check-ups with your vet to identify any major health problems early on before they
become life-threatening should not be underestimated.

compiled by
Cathy Kendrick
DPCA Public Education Committee

Emergencies

When faced with a pet emergency, stay calm and do not panic. Take your pet to your veterinarian or a 24 hour emergency animal hospital as quickly as possible. Whenever possible, call ahead to the vet so they can prepare for your arrival. Keep the phone number of your vet, or the nearest 24 hour emergency clinic near the phone so you can save time. When you call a veterinary clinic be as descriptive as possible when trying  to explain the symptoms displayed by your pet.
THIS INFORMATION IS NOT INTENDED TO SERVE AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR DIRECT VETERINARY DIAGNOSIS AND CARE.