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Breeder Education Home
This site is dedicated to the late, great Judy Doniere whose dream it was and who, along with Judy Bohnert and later a few others, made it a reality. JuD, as she was fondly known, gave all of herself to all of us and to the Doberman.
Judith Doniere, daughter of the late Clarence and Mary Cotter, died peacefully in her Las Vegas home following a three year battle with ovarian cancer.
Judy was born into a family who loved all animals starting with exotic animals she and her family raised for the Toledo Ohio Zoo. It was common to see baby chimps, lions, tigers, cougars, wolves, and leopards running around her childhood home. Judy also worked at the zoo cleaning cages and caring for animals. She was a horse lover owning 5 while raising her children, attending dog shows and later becoming a prominent AKC dog show Judge.
Judy and her husband Pat (deceased 2003) traveled the United States and many foreign countries for over 40 years during their careers as judges and still working various jobs in the secular world, Judy in Sales and Pat owning a heating and air conditioning company. Together they received the life time achievement award from the Doberman Pinscher Club of America, for their many years of service to various dog breeds and being authorities in the sport.
Judy was strong minded and determined to live with cancer if she could not live without it. She would schedule her chemo treatments around her dog show assignments. Her caring doctors, Dr. Cheryl Brewer – oncologist, ob gyn, surgeon, and Dr. Spirtos UNV, family and dog lovers encouraged her and helped her cope with the disease.
JuD went home after 7 weeks in Sunrise Hospital following her last surgery. She was under the care of Creekside Hospice who were loving and very attentive, especially in pain control.
Judy will be missed by her 4 children, 9 grandchildren and 7 great grandchildren, 3 sisters and 2 brothers.
FAQs
Is a Doberman the dog for everyone?
While the Doberman is a great breed and those that have them will never want another breed,they are clearly NOT for everyone. Dobermans by their sheer nature need a person who can be their “pack leader”. In order to do this a person must have an “alpha” personality. By this I mean, the person must be able to take charge when the need arises. Too many people jump into owning a Doberman without thought as to what that “cute” puppy is going to be like when he reaches adulthood and is a 90 pound male with all that goes with it. Intimidation sets in, and before you know it, the owner is trying to find the dog a new home because he is out of control.
How large is a Doberman? How much do they weigh?
Males can get be anywhere from 26 to 28 inches and weigh from 75- 90 lbs, females 24 to 26 inches and weigh 65-75 lbs. The appearance is that of a dog of medium size, with a body that is square. Compactly built, muscular and powerful, for great endurance and speed. Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament. Energetic, watchful, determined, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient.
How long do they live?
They generally live healthy lives on an average of around 9 years. They can live longer but in general they are relatively healthy until around age 8 – 10.
What do they eat and about how much?
Because of their high energy level they should be fed a high quality food containing a good balance of protein and fat and with essential fatty acids. Most normally active Dobermans will require a higher level of fat and protein than many other breeds throughout their lives. Adults will eat from 2-5 cups of food a day depending on the individual dogs metabolism and how much activity they are getting. Good quality, balanced food will help to keep the coat healthy and reduce shedding.
Where should they live/sleep?
A Doberman that gets a lot of exercise and interaction with family makes an excellent housedog but he must have a secure area to run and play in or he should be taken on very regular romps to let off some steam. A Doberman that has been cooped up and not allowed to play rambunctiously may be too active to enjoy in the house. Because of their curious nature and high activity level it is best if young dogs sleep in a confined, secure place such as a crate. This assures that the dog does not “accidentally” get into trouble during the night when he wakes up and is unsupervised. Older, mature dogs that have proven themselves trustworthy housedogs can be allowed to sleep loose.
Dobermans cannot be outside dogs and they can not be ignored. An ignored Doberman will become bored very easily. The high intellect and curious nature of the breed will result in some very undesirable behaviours. Barking, digging and general destruction both indoors and outdoors can result.
What are the grooming needs of a Doberman and how often should they be done?
Maintenance of the Doberman is minimal compared to many other breeds but there are still some areas that require attention.
Good dental health is also a must. Teach the dog early to enjoy having his teeth brushed with a toothbrush and toothpaste designed for dogs. Also, encourage him to chew on toys that are designed to clean teeth and stimulate gums.
Toenails should be kept short. It is best to do them once a week. Long nails can be hazardous. Also, if they are too long the dog will be walking on the nails, as opposed to walking on pads of the feet as they are supposed to, resulting in sore, splayed feet.
Shedding……YES, their dark hairs do get on clothing and furniture! There are some things that can be done to help minimize this. Baths with a good quality shampoo that is mild on the skin, as well as regular, consistent grooming with a rubber grooming glove will keep the skin stimulated and the hair healthy plus it will remove the dead hairs before they fall off on the furniture. A good way to cleanse them without bathing too frequently is to make a mixture of 1/3 Listerine Mouthwash, 1/3 glycerine and 1/3 water and put it in a spray bottle. Spray the dog daily and wipe down with a soft cloth. This will keep the dandruff and shedding to a minimum and give your dog a sleek, shiny coat year round. A healthy, parasite free, clean Doberman will shed the least possible.
How much exercise do they need; how frequently?
Canines are most secure and content with regular daily routines. A Doberman´s daily routine definitely must include some form of exercise preferably morning and evening. The ideal would be time to run and play in a secure fenced area; at least a half hour in the AM and PM. If you do not have the facilities for that, a brisk morning and evening walk or jog are essential. City dwellers will have to get more creative with providing their high energy, healthy pet a daily opportunity to blow off steam and to stay in condition, maybe a treadmill type dog jogger, or a local basketball court where a ball or frisbee can be safely chased.
What toys and supplies do I need to buy?
Different dogs like different types of toys. Most Dobermans like toys that they can fetch. It is a good idea to teach your dog early on to chew on the proper toys that will result in good dental health. Hard nylon chew toys or sterilized bones are good for helping reduce the tarter on their teeth. Not all dogs like to chew on these types of things and they must be encouraged to do so. Some dog treats such as rawhide bones and rope toys should be given to the dog only when supervised. These types of toys can be dangerous if the dog eats them rather than just chewing them and most Dobermans are inclined to do this. Some dogs savour their treats and simply enjoy chewing them; others simply destroy them and swallow large pieces.
A crate is a must. It should be large enough for the dog to stretch out in, stand up and turn around but not so large that it does not provide the secure ‘den’ feeling that dogs enjoy. There are various types of crates, usually wire and plastic. Different situations call for different crates. Wire affords good circulation but is not as secure feeling to the dog as a plastic crate. Plastic crates are required by the airlines.
Collars with tags marked clearly with the address and contact numbers should be worn by dogs when they are outside. Even safer is a microchip implanted under the skin registered with the AKC´s Companion Animal Recovery program. Most veterinarians can provide this service. Be careful of loose fitting collars and dangling tags when the dog is confined to his crate as there is the possibility of it becoming tangled in the crate and causing harm to the dog. A “choke style” collar is very dangerous when a dog is crated. Only snug fitting, flat collars with nothing dangling or protruding to catch wires should be used. Use discretion with these items.
Are they good with children?
The breed is usually excellent with children when raised with children. This is due to their high level of intelligence and their innate desire to function with and for people. They seem to understand that infants and very young ones need care and protection and tend to be tolerant of little ones´ play. This is not to say that an exuberant pup will not knock a toddler down in play or accidentally bite to grab a toy.
When visiting a new litter you may find the dam aggressive and protective of her brood and should respect that for what it is. You also may encounter a Doberman alarmed at the antics of small children which should be explainable by asking if the dog has ever been exposed to youngsters. Aggression toward or fear of people of any size or age is not typical Doberman temperament and should be avoided in any dog you may have in your home.
Are they easy to train?
Yes, very, IF you know what you are doing. The Doberman is very intelligent and eager to please. They will work hard for positive reinforcement. They are not generally stubborn or hard-headed. They pick up new exercises very quickly. Due to their high intelligence level, the biggest challenge is to keep them focused, and not let them get away with ‘inventing’ variations to the exercise being taught. Because of the breed’s extreme sensitivity to people the trainer must always be watchful of their own body language and reactions to issues that come up during a training exercise. As a general rule, a calm demeanour providing quick and clear reward for desired behaviour, while ignoring or, if necessary, simple verbal correction for undesired behaviour, will net you an enthusiastic and talented working partner.
Should I crate train my Doberman?
ABSOLUTELY!! The crate was designed with the Doberman in mind!! If introduced properly and in a positive manner, it becomes a safe haven and a secure ‘den’ for any breed of dog. This way the dog has a place to go when things get too hectic and he needs a break. When he has to travel, his ‘home’ can come with him and he is not unsettled by the situation. He is protected from himself when there is no one to supervise him. It is very unfair to leave a young, unsupervised Doberman alone in the house and expect him to be good! When you come home and he has done something wrong, nobody is happy! When he is safely in his crate and you come home you know that you can enjoy your dog and he can enjoy you without the trauma of a big, unexpected mess. Last, but certainly not least, if your dog is ever ill and is required to stay in a crate, either at home or at the vet, it will help his recovery if he is comfortable resting in his ‘den’ rather than feeling like he is trapped in a cage he is not used to.
Is it fair to the dog if I don´t plan to hunt?
Dobermans are most commonly thought of as protection companions. This breed was developed with protection in mind and the Herr Louis Dobermann succeeded admirably at what he set out to do. They are also excellent for companionship, for watching over their territory or for almost anything you set your mind to. What is not fair to this breed is to ignore them and sentence them to a sedentary life with limited human companionship. If you can find activities in your life which afford the dog the opportunity to work with and for you, you will have a happy and well-adjusted animal no matter what that activity may be. The temperament, physical and intelligence qualities of this breed allow the Doberman to excel at just about any activity you are interested in that can include a dog.
How do I find a responsible breeder and what health issues should I ask about?
The DPCA provides Breeder Referral contacts and can furnish you with lists of breeders in your area and guidance through your search for a healthy dog with the characteristics you are looking for. The Doberman unfortunately, like most breeds, has its share of genetic problems so there are many health clearances which breeders can and should provide. At a minimum ALL breeding stock should be tested and/or certified against:
While the Doberman is a great breed and those that have them will never want another breed,they are clearly NOT for everyone. Dobermans by their sheer nature need a person who can be their “pack leader”. In order to do this a person must have an “alpha” personality. By this I mean, the person must be able to take charge when the need arises. Too many people jump into owning a Doberman without thought as to what that “cute” puppy is going to be like when he reaches adulthood and is a 90 pound male with all that goes with it. Intimidation sets in, and before you know it, the owner is trying to find the dog a new home because he is out of control.
How large is a Doberman? How much do they weigh?
Males can get be anywhere from 26 to 28 inches and weigh from 75- 90 lbs, females 24 to 26 inches and weigh 65-75 lbs. The appearance is that of a dog of medium size, with a body that is square. Compactly built, muscular and powerful, for great endurance and speed. Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament. Energetic, watchful, determined, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient.
How long do they live?
They generally live healthy lives on an average of around 9 years. They can live longer but in general they are relatively healthy until around age 8 – 10.
What do they eat and about how much?
Because of their high energy level they should be fed a high quality food containing a good balance of protein and fat and with essential fatty acids. Most normally active Dobermans will require a higher level of fat and protein than many other breeds throughout their lives. Adults will eat from 2-5 cups of food a day depending on the individual dogs metabolism and how much activity they are getting. Good quality, balanced food will help to keep the coat healthy and reduce shedding.
Where should they live/sleep?
A Doberman that gets a lot of exercise and interaction with family makes an excellent housedog but he must have a secure area to run and play in or he should be taken on very regular romps to let off some steam. A Doberman that has been cooped up and not allowed to play rambunctiously may be too active to enjoy in the house. Because of their curious nature and high activity level it is best if young dogs sleep in a confined, secure place such as a crate. This assures that the dog does not “accidentally” get into trouble during the night when he wakes up and is unsupervised. Older, mature dogs that have proven themselves trustworthy housedogs can be allowed to sleep loose.
Dobermans cannot be outside dogs and they can not be ignored. An ignored Doberman will become bored very easily. The high intellect and curious nature of the breed will result in some very undesirable behaviours. Barking, digging and general destruction both indoors and outdoors can result.
What are the grooming needs of a Doberman and how often should they be done?
Maintenance of the Doberman is minimal compared to many other breeds but there are still some areas that require attention.
Good dental health is also a must. Teach the dog early to enjoy having his teeth brushed with a toothbrush and toothpaste designed for dogs. Also, encourage him to chew on toys that are designed to clean teeth and stimulate gums.
Toenails should be kept short. It is best to do them once a week. Long nails can be hazardous. Also, if they are too long the dog will be walking on the nails, as opposed to walking on pads of the feet as they are supposed to, resulting in sore, splayed feet.
Shedding……YES, their dark hairs do get on clothing and furniture! There are some things that can be done to help minimize this. Baths with a good quality shampoo that is mild on the skin, as well as regular, consistent grooming with a rubber grooming glove will keep the skin stimulated and the hair healthy plus it will remove the dead hairs before they fall off on the furniture. A good way to cleanse them without bathing too frequently is to make a mixture of 1/3 Listerine Mouthwash, 1/3 glycerine and 1/3 water and put it in a spray bottle. Spray the dog daily and wipe down with a soft cloth. This will keep the dandruff and shedding to a minimum and give your dog a sleek, shiny coat year round. A healthy, parasite free, clean Doberman will shed the least possible.
How much exercise do they need; how frequently?
Canines are most secure and content with regular daily routines. A Doberman´s daily routine definitely must include some form of exercise preferably morning and evening. The ideal would be time to run and play in a secure fenced area; at least a half hour in the AM and PM. If you do not have the facilities for that, a brisk morning and evening walk or jog are essential. City dwellers will have to get more creative with providing their high energy, healthy pet a daily opportunity to blow off steam and to stay in condition, maybe a treadmill type dog jogger, or a local basketball court where a ball or frisbee can be safely chased.
What toys and supplies do I need to buy?
Different dogs like different types of toys. Most Dobermans like toys that they can fetch. It is a good idea to teach your dog early on to chew on the proper toys that will result in good dental health. Hard nylon chew toys or sterilized bones are good for helping reduce the tarter on their teeth. Not all dogs like to chew on these types of things and they must be encouraged to do so. Some dog treats such as rawhide bones and rope toys should be given to the dog only when supervised. These types of toys can be dangerous if the dog eats them rather than just chewing them and most Dobermans are inclined to do this. Some dogs savour their treats and simply enjoy chewing them; others simply destroy them and swallow large pieces.
A crate is a must. It should be large enough for the dog to stretch out in, stand up and turn around but not so large that it does not provide the secure ‘den’ feeling that dogs enjoy. There are various types of crates, usually wire and plastic. Different situations call for different crates. Wire affords good circulation but is not as secure feeling to the dog as a plastic crate. Plastic crates are required by the airlines.
Collars with tags marked clearly with the address and contact numbers should be worn by dogs when they are outside. Even safer is a microchip implanted under the skin registered with the AKC´s Companion Animal Recovery program. Most veterinarians can provide this service. Be careful of loose fitting collars and dangling tags when the dog is confined to his crate as there is the possibility of it becoming tangled in the crate and causing harm to the dog. A “choke style” collar is very dangerous when a dog is crated. Only snug fitting, flat collars with nothing dangling or protruding to catch wires should be used. Use discretion with these items.
Are they good with children?
The breed is usually excellent with children when raised with children. This is due to their high level of intelligence and their innate desire to function with and for people. They seem to understand that infants and very young ones need care and protection and tend to be tolerant of little ones´ play. This is not to say that an exuberant pup will not knock a toddler down in play or accidentally bite to grab a toy.
When visiting a new litter you may find the dam aggressive and protective of her brood and should respect that for what it is. You also may encounter a Doberman alarmed at the antics of small children which should be explainable by asking if the dog has ever been exposed to youngsters. Aggression toward or fear of people of any size or age is not typical Doberman temperament and should be avoided in any dog you may have in your home.
Are they easy to train?
Yes, very, IF you know what you are doing. The Doberman is very intelligent and eager to please. They will work hard for positive reinforcement. They are not generally stubborn or hard-headed. They pick up new exercises very quickly. Due to their high intelligence level, the biggest challenge is to keep them focused, and not let them get away with ‘inventing’ variations to the exercise being taught. Because of the breed’s extreme sensitivity to people the trainer must always be watchful of their own body language and reactions to issues that come up during a training exercise. As a general rule, a calm demeanour providing quick and clear reward for desired behaviour, while ignoring or, if necessary, simple verbal correction for undesired behaviour, will net you an enthusiastic and talented working partner.
Should I crate train my Doberman?
ABSOLUTELY!! The crate was designed with the Doberman in mind!! If introduced properly and in a positive manner, it becomes a safe haven and a secure ‘den’ for any breed of dog. This way the dog has a place to go when things get too hectic and he needs a break. When he has to travel, his ‘home’ can come with him and he is not unsettled by the situation. He is protected from himself when there is no one to supervise him. It is very unfair to leave a young, unsupervised Doberman alone in the house and expect him to be good! When you come home and he has done something wrong, nobody is happy! When he is safely in his crate and you come home you know that you can enjoy your dog and he can enjoy you without the trauma of a big, unexpected mess. Last, but certainly not least, if your dog is ever ill and is required to stay in a crate, either at home or at the vet, it will help his recovery if he is comfortable resting in his ‘den’ rather than feeling like he is trapped in a cage he is not used to.
Is it fair to the dog if I don´t plan to hunt?
Dobermans are most commonly thought of as protection companions. This breed was developed with protection in mind and the Herr Louis Dobermann succeeded admirably at what he set out to do. They are also excellent for companionship, for watching over their territory or for almost anything you set your mind to. What is not fair to this breed is to ignore them and sentence them to a sedentary life with limited human companionship. If you can find activities in your life which afford the dog the opportunity to work with and for you, you will have a happy and well-adjusted animal no matter what that activity may be. The temperament, physical and intelligence qualities of this breed allow the Doberman to excel at just about any activity you are interested in that can include a dog.
How do I find a responsible breeder and what health issues should I ask about?
The DPCA provides Breeder Referral contacts and can furnish you with lists of breeders in your area and guidance through your search for a healthy dog with the characteristics you are looking for. The Doberman unfortunately, like most breeds, has its share of genetic problems so there are many health clearances which breeders can and should provide. At a minimum ALL breeding stock should be tested and/or certified against:
- Cardiomyopathy – to include a Holter monitor EKG and an ultrasound or sonogram done by a veterinary cardiologist. Cardio tests should be conducted annually or 3 months before a planned breeding. This type of testing should be done in Dobermans as it is better than nothing and you can know that at the time of the breeding or the time of the test whether the heart tested normal; that there were no heart murmurs or abnormally skipping heart beats.
- Von Willebrands disease via DNA test (vWD) – a blood clotting disorder
- X-rays for hip and elbow dysplasia, certified by OFA at or after the age of 2 years
- Annual blood panels for thyroid, kidneys, and liver
- Annual eye exam done by a veterinary ophthalmologist (CERF exam)
Ask breeders questions about the health not only of the sire and dam, but of their siblings and parents, if known. How long did they live? What kind of surgeries have they had?
More information about finding the right Doberman for you may be obtained at:
- DOBERMAN OWNER BUYER EDUCATIONby James W. Anable, Jr
- HOW TO BUY A DOBERMAN PUPPY by Joanna Walker
- ETHICS OF BREEDING by Dog Play
Puppy Development and Socialization
Installment 1 Installment 2 Installment 3 Installment 4 Installment 5 Installment 6
Installment 1
The Public Education Committee of the Doberman Pinscher Club of America (DPCA) is proud to announce a new educational series that will appear weekly. The first will be on puppy development and socialization.
Before we start, it is important to note that the DPCA believes that breeding programs should be undertaken responsibly for the purpose of preserving breed characteristics and producing healthy, well-socialized purebred puppies. The most important factors to consider in all breeding decisions should be health, temperament and conformation. The importance of an apprenticeship with a respected mentor cannot be understated.
Susan James has graciously allowed the DPCA to use the pictures and videos taken of her last litter. The dam of the featured litter is Ch. Raindance Genesis of Marquis “Genesis” bred by Susan and Chelsea James and Linda and Kelly Marquis. The sire is Ch. Marquis Retribution “Dante” bred by Linda and Kelly Marquis.
In the below video, Genesis is 53 days into her pregnancy. In this final phase, the puppies continue their development safely in her womb and begin moving around as Genesis’ body prepares for their delivery.
Installment 2
Ann Seranne, one of America’s most respected authorities on breeding, wrote: “The challenge before us is to capture all the qualities in one gorgeous, animated package and lock those genes into our genetic lines so that our dogs will eventually breed true. We may not be able to accomplish this in the remaining span of our lives, but we hope that we will be able to leave the foundation for such a dream to an equally interested person who will be able to accomplish in his lifetime what we will attempt to strive for in ours.”
The Doberman Pinscher Club of America is blessed to have many reputable breeders, some of which apprenticed with the pioneers that brought our great breed to this country. These dedicated breeders have an intimate knowledge of our bloodlines and every litter they produce represents the years they have invested in breeding quality Dobermans. They will pass their knowledge onto others with the same spirit of preserving and protecting our breed’s heritage and traditions for generations to come.
Whelping Day
For the past 63 days, each puppy has been living and developing in its own amniotic sac which is attached to its own placenta by the umbilical cord. During that time, they have grown from the size of a pea into a fully formed puppy.
Now in Stage 3 of their development, they move around so much that their kicks can be seen through the mother’s abdomen. We found a wonderful description on the three stages of puppy development which we will include here. We liked it because it wasn’t too scientific to understand yet covered the developmental stages nicely. It can also be found at http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5370646_stages-puppy-development-during-pregnancy.html .
Stage 1: Without the assistance of a trained professional who knows how to palpate the stomach to confirm the presence of puppies, diagnosing the pregnancy of a dog can be challenging within the first few weeks. Changes in the appearance of the mother’s nipples, as well as her appetite and behavior, are often so subtle that the initial stages of pregnancy escape notice.
Around the third week, the cells of the embryo multiply and implant within the dog’s uterus to begin the development process. At this stage – around 26 to 32 days into creation – a veterinarian will most likely be able to palpate and confirm the presence of the puppies.
Stage 2: Around the fourth week, the occupants of the mother’s uterus begin to make themselves at home. The eyes and faces of the puppies begin to form, and their spinal cords take shape. During this time, the fetus is most susceptible to issues, which can, in extreme cases, cause fetal death. While some of the congenital hindrances can be quite obvious immediately upon birth, many, such as defects to functioning organs, will remain hidden until well into the formative stages of the puppy’s life.
Around the fifth and sixth week, the puppies can double in size to around 20 to 30 mm. Now they’re starting to look like puppies with toes and claws forming as well as tiny whisker stumps under the nose. Their eyes are still closed and their skin pigment has formed. At this stage, their bodies have developed to the point that the sex can be determined and a stethoscope can easily pick up a heartbeat.
In this X-ray of Genesis’ abdomen, you can see the skeletal structures of the puppies
Stage 3: In the final phase of the pregnancy, the puppies continue their development safely within the womb. They continue to grow, and will begin to move around inside while mama’s body prepares for the delivery.
The puppies will take one of two positions inside the uterus in preparation for their big entrance into the world: anterior (nose and front paws pointed toward the birth canal) and posterior (tail and back paws appear first).
Before birth, they will be enclosed in two separate sacs. The outer one will split open during the birth process.
We can now take a look at the Breeder’s Birthing Log which was prepared by Susan and Chelsea James of Raindance Dobermans. (Raindance Dobermans are probably best known as the co-breeders of Troy (GCH Raindance Led Zeppelin of Marquis), the Doberman who found cancer in his owner’s breast, saving her life (http://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/westminster-contender-saved-owner-life-article-1.1601212.)
Genesis and Dante Birthing Log
Sept 29, 2014 AM
Genesis temperature was fluctuating between 101 and 99. Genesis is fine. She ate, drank and went out to potty normally.
Set 29, 2014 PM
Gen is not interested in dinner, but acting normal. She is so uncomfortable. I put her in the whelping box but did not want to stay in there without me by her side. We are both in the box together.
Set 30, 2014 1AM
Genesis is now nesting and becoming very active. I am in the box with her and let her do all the re-arranging she wanted.
3:45 AM
Gen has started heavy panting and started to have some contractions. Chelsea is in the whelping box with Genesis. All supplies are outside the box. We are ready.
4:30 AM
Gen gave a few strong contractions and out comes the first puppy. Chelsea removed the sac, cleaned out the mouth for fluids, cut the cord and wiped her with a towel while rubbing her body to stimulate. Genesis ate the placenta. The first puppy is a girl, weighing 9.5 oz. She is strong and active. I put a white ribbon around her neck. The puppy was given to Genesis. Gen immediately inspected her and moved her around with her nose. She was placed on a teat to suckle. I stated a color coded log to track weight and progress.
5:05 AM
Gen started contracting. I placed white collar in a basket lined with towels and a warmed snuggle disk outside the whelping box as I will do with each new puppy to be delivered.
5:10 AM
Gen gave birth to her second puppy. All is going fine. It is a male weighing 1.2 lb., wearing a yellow ribbon. We cleaned him and gave yellow collar and white collar back to suckle.
5:20 AM
I offered Genesis warmed Mothers Pudding which she lapped up and started getting ready for her 3rd puppy. The first two puppies were placed in the basket.
5:30 AM
A male weighing 1.1 lb wearing a red ribbon
6:00 AM
A bitch weighing 1 lb wearing a hot pink ribbon
6:15 AM
A male weighing 1.1 lb wearing a blue collar
6:25 AM
A male weighing 1 lb wearing a lime collar
6:45 AM
A bitch weighing 1.1 lb wearing a teal collar
7:00 AM
All towels are replaced with warmed clean dry bedding. Gen was given Mothers Pudding.
Genesis has 7 healthy puppies. 3 bitches and 4 males, all red and all perfect.
All puppies are nursing and Genesis is exhausted. As I lay beside her, I made sure the puppies are nursing and Genesis is OK. I put 3 warmed snuggle disks under the bedding. The temperature in the room is 80 degrees. It is very warm in the room and I am so HOT.
9:00 AM
I let Genesis out to potty. She needed to be leashed to get her out of the box. She relieved herself quickly and ran back to the babies. I made sure she did not step on one as she eagerly returned to the box. I offered Gen Mothers Pudding which she ate.
9:30 AM
Gen is sleeping and all puppies are suckling. I am watching white collar to make sure she was on a nipple and also closed my eyes.
The entire day was relaxed and quiet. Gen has plenty of milk and puppies content.
Day One Video:
Day Two Video:
Installment 3
“Experience is the teacher of all things” – Julius Caesar
WHY EXPERIENCE MATTERS IN BREEDING
Puppies 1 week old
This group of puppies already has big advantages as they come into the world. Every aspect of their existence has been well thought out and planned. When selecting a sire, the breeders’ knowledge of bloodlines was a crucial component in making the decision. They wanted a sire that would complement the desirable traits they already had while giving them traits they either wanted to strengthen or did not have. While Mother Nature can sometimes throw in a wicked curve ball, knowledge of bloodlines does help reduce the odds of genetic disorders in the litter. Breeders view each breeding as another opportunity to move a step closer to the ideal that is the breed standard. Consistently producing healthy, structurally and mentally sound puppies is a labor of love that requires intense devotion and responsibility. This is where knowledge and experience define the difference between breeding a litter and breeding for the benefit of the breed.
Puppies are born without sight or sound. Eyes and ears continue development for the first several weeks after birth. In this most vulnerable of stages, the puppies are completely reliant on their mother and the breeders for their survival. The breeders will closely monitor their weight and growth and will supplement the puppies for extra nutrition.
The puppies also cannot regulate their bodily functions like temperature and elimination. Temperature regulation comes once their shivering reflex starts to work. Shivering is an involuntary muscular response from the body which is triggered by being too cold. This is why puppies huddle together for warmth – puppies separated from the “nest” can quickly die of hypothermia or become sick which is a threat to the entire litter. Monitoring the puppies’ temperatures to ensure that they are neither too cold nor too hot is very important for their survival.
Elimination is another reflex which is stimulated when the mother cleans her puppies. The puppies will not be able to eliminate on their own until they are approximately 3 weeks of age.
Now that the puppies are born, the breeders are in charge of seven precious lives and the work now done during these puppies’ many developmental stages will chart the course on how well the puppies will handle the variety of things they will encounter in life.
Weeks 1 and 2 – Neonatal Period
The first milk produced by the mother is called colostrum. It is rich in nutrition and antibodies that help protect the puppies from disease during these first weeks of life. The puppies do little but nurse and sleep because all of their energy is channeled into growth. Their birth weight will double in this first week. Since the puppies cannot yet walk, they crawl by pulling themselves around using their front legs and kicking with their back. Crawling helps to develop both muscles and coordination and once they get the hang of it, they start to crawl and wiggle with abandon!
Let’s take a look at Susan and Chelsea James’ breeders’ log for weeks 1 and 2:
Genesis and Dante Birthing Log
Oct 3, 2014
Off to the Vet about 40 minutes away for tails and Dew Claws. The van is nice and warm. All the puppies are cozy in a towel lined basket with a warmed snuggle sack under the towels.
The Puppies tails and dew claws were done. All is fine and tails all look good.
Genesis came for the ride.
Oct 3-7 – Week 1
Puppies are all doing great and gaining weight steadily. They are active and very hungry. Genesis is being an absolute perfect Mother with lots of milk and nurturing.
I am supplementing the puppies 3-4 times a day with an excellent formula from Whelp Wise. The preemie bottles and nipples are from Whelp Wise. After years of searching for the perfect nipple, I found these nipples to be the best.
The puppies know when I get into the whelping box with their bottles. They all start to climb on me at the same time wanting to be the first to get fed. They are so darn cute and smart.
The tails have healed nicely.
Oct 8-14 – Week 2
All puppies are doing great. Little White Collar is extremely active and strong. She is doing fantastic and I know she will be fine. Yellow Collar now named “big piggy” is the biggest and always on a nipple.
They are all very close in size with White Collar slowing catching up. Their eyes started opening at about 10 days.
Week 1 video:
Week 2 videos:
Installment 4
“Of all the things I miss from veterinary practice, puppy breath is one of the most fond memories!” – Dr. Tom Cat
Transitional Period – Weeks 2 to 4
In this time frame, the puppies will go through more rapid physical and sensory development and will start to become a bit more independent from their mother.
As we have learned from the previous installments, puppies are born with limited senses. They can feel, smell and taste but their eyes and ears are sealed shut. Usually between 10 to 14 days, their eyes open for the first time. The puppies will be able to see light, fuzzy shapes and movement but their visual acuity will not be completely developed until they are around 7 weeks of age.
Just as with human ears, a puppy’s ears not only provide the ability to hear sound but they also provide equilibrium for balance. Unlike human ears, however, a dog’s ears are remarkably acute and they are able to hear sounds at high frequencies or low, soft volumes that humans cannot detect. The breeders know when a puppy hears its first sound because it will react as if startled.
Vocally, the puppies can now whine, bark and yelp – a whole new vocabulary is now open to them.
The puppies’ baby (or deciduous) teeth also start to emerge at around 10 days. They will eventually have a total of 28 baby teeth which, as most people know, are incredibly sharp!
The puppies are now very active as their motor skills kick into hyper-drive! Their leg muscles have enough strength to now support their bodies so they can stand usually by day 15 and begin to walk by day 21. Walking will be full of wobbles and falls as they learn the art of movement and balance.
The puppies are now able to eliminate on their own and will leave the nest to do so. The puppies also begin to moderate their own body temperature but continued monitoring still needs to be done to ensure puppies do not get too cold.
They now begin to show more of an interest in their littermates and the play process begins!
Let’s take another look at Susan and Chelsea James’ breeders’ log, videos and pictures. You can tell how much the puppies have changed from the neonatal state. You can also get a sense of how much work is being put into their care. The breeders are now introducing different stimuli to the puppies’ environment. This is the optimal time for the breeders to increase their individual attention to each puppy. Introducing them to a variety of sounds and environments and even placing them on different surfaces is important to the socialization process.
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Genesis and Dante Birthing Log
Puppies are getting more and more active now. Genesis is still nursing. Their teeth are starting to cut through the gums. Genesis is in and out of the whelping box as she wants.
3 weeks
All puppies’ eyes are opened and they are starting to walk around and interact with each other.
Mother Genesis is still nursing and I am still supplementing. They are all just too cute.
3.5 weeks
I separated the whelping box with ½ bedding and ½ newspapers over a washable wee wee pad. This is working out great and they are getting the idea to potty on the paper.
I started dremeling their nails.
I started introducing them to a mix of warmed rice cereal, Gerber chicken and beef jarred baby food with fresh goat’s milk.
I am feeding them outside the whelping box. The first feeding was very messy. More food was on them then in their tummies. The second feeding was fantastic. They love the food and are getting better about eating it then stepping in it.
Week 4
The puppies are moved out of the nursery to a much larger space in the living room.
I have three sleeping sections for them. One is an open crate lined with fluffy bedding; an extra large Kuranda cot with legs removed piled high with bedding and another with a big plush doggy bed. I am still putting snuggle warming disks under the bedding. The balance of the play area is lined with newspapers.
They love to suck the fuzzy type bedding and always drift off to sleep while sucking.
The puppies have sharp teeth and have started hurting Gen at nursing time.
Genesis has decided she is finished with her Motherly duties and wanted to return to the pack. I would not force her to stay and subject her to the pain.
The Puppies love their new space and are having a ball running and playing with all their new toys.
I put a small little tykes slide in the area and immediately they had to check it out and climb it. They are just too cute for words.
I started feeding the puppies 4 times a day. I always have a sombrero feeding bowl filled with water diluted goats milk. They quickly learned how to lap up the milk. The bowl needed to be filled very often.
I have gradually added some water soaked kibble (overnight soaking) to their food of rice cereal, Gerber baby food (2 jars per feeding) and goat milk.
They are doing great and gaining weight nicely.
They are smart, very social and have great appetites and I am so in love with these adorable puppies.
Installment 5
“Whoever said you can’t buy happiness forgot little puppies.” Gene Hill
Socialization Period Part 1 (Weeks 5 to 16)
Awareness and Imprinting
Now that the puppies are out of their transition period and have full use of all of their senses, they become more aware and want to explore everything around them. They should be exposed to a wide variety of sounds (telephone ringing, television, radio, music, vacuum, dropping a metal pan on the floor etc.). They will startle when they hear new things and then return to normal. This “startle and return to normal “response needs to be heavily encouraged so the dog retains that behavior for the remainder of his life.
Introduction to different visual stimuli is also needed such as objects that move or have moving parts. Having the puppies move through a tunnel where the light changes from light to dark to light is also beneficial. Dogs have a built-in fear instinct that is part of their natural instinct to survive so it is important for them to experience as many things as they can before that instinct kicks in.
Imprinting is a critical phase-sensitive learning that occurs at a particular age and teaches behavioral characteristics. When learned properly, it also teaches the puppies that they are dogs. They first imprint on their mother which happens within the first 24 hours after birth when the puppy recognizes their mother by smell. Fraternal imprinting happens between 3 to 8 weeks – this is where puppies identify with their siblings and other dogs they encounter. What we see as a bunch of cute puppies playing is actually needed for their social development. This is where they learn play behavior, bite inhibition and even accepting discipline. Puppies also display the beginnings of sexual imprinting where they learn about appropriate behavior for their own and the opposite sex. It is extremely important that the puppies are left in the litter as long as possible so the puppies learn as much as they can before going to their new homes.
Longtime DPCA member, AKC Judge and Author, Pat Hastings, wrote The Rule of Sevens years ago which provides examples of what seven things a puppy should have experienced by seven weeks of age.
THE RULE OF SEVENS
By the time a puppy is 7 weeks old it should:
- Been on 7 different surfaces, such as: carpet, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips, newspaper, etc.
- Played with 7 different types of objects, such as: big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, fuzzy balls, squeaky toys, metal items, wooden items, paper/cardboard items, milk/soda jugs, etc.
- Been in 7 different locations, including: front yard, backyard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, crate, kennel, etc.
- Been exposed to 7 challenges, such as: climbed a box, climbed off a box, gone through a tunnel, climbed up steps, climbed down steps, climbed over obstacles, played hide and seek, gone in and out of a doorway with a step, etc.
- Eaten from 7 different containers: metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, china, pie plate, frying pan, etc.
- Eaten in 7 different locations: crate, yard, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bedroom, x-pen, etc.
- Met and played with 7 new people, including children and the elderly.
Socialization Builds Confidence
Dog behaviorists theorize that 35% of a dog’s temperament is hereditary (nature) and 65% is left to experience, nutrition and physical condition (nurture). With that in mind, a puppy that has been able to experience a wide range of stimuli, including people, animals and environments, will most likely become a well-mannered and trusted member of the family. Conversely, dogs that do not have the important foundation that early socialization provides may react with fear or aggression whenever they are exposed to new things and are way more likely to be abandoned by their owners.
Most feel that socialization starts in utero by keeping the mother calm, happy and well nourished during her pregnancy. Stress can have very negative consequences for both the mother and her developing puppies. Proper prenatal care is very important for both. While socialization is most important during the optimal stages we are discussing, it should be carried on throughout the dog’s life. Joining an obedience class, going to a dog park, meeting new people, going for walks, and even taking your dog to the vet helps ensure that our dog remains happy and stable throughout its life.
Dante and Genesis Birthing Log
5-7 weeks
The Puppies settled into their new space which is divided with a variety of sleeping areas and a huge play area.
The are getting acquainted with the crate and love the cozy and warm feeling when in there. This is the first step in crate training. Baby Steps.
The slide is giving them hour of fun while strengthening their balance and coordination.
White Collar now sporting a purple/pink collar, and also named Ariane, was the first one on the slide and soon after the litter mates wanted to give it a try. From that moment on the slide was their main source of entertainment.
They all have been eating well, 4 times a day, and keeping their bedding nice and dry. I replaced the sombrero feeding bowl filled with goats milk and water to a large bucket filled with water. I have deleted rice cereal from their diet and have increased kibble. I am adding boneless, skinless boiled chicken breast, put through the food processor, in their food. I am continuing to include goat milk. I have gradually introduced powdered Vitamin C, Ultimate Doggyzimes and Holistic Pet Organics Canine Complete.
It is non-stop play, pass out, non-stop play and pass out. This age is so important for development and socialization.
I am now allowing visitors to come and meet the kids which they love.
They all greet the visitors with confidence and abundant affection. They are such a joy to watch interact with everyone.
Installment 6
“A puppy is but a dog, plus high spirits, and minus common sense.” – Agnes Repplier
“There are all sorts of cute puppy dogs, but it doesn’t stop people from going out and buying Dobermans.” – Angus Young
SOCIALIZATION PERIOD PART 2 (WEEKS 5 TO 16)
Awareness and Imprinting
In the last installment, we talked about imprinting and how it teaches behavioral characteristics. It is in this critical phase, that puppies imprint on their mother, learn that they are dogs, exhibit early sexual behavior, and learn to identify with their siblings and other animals in the household.
As the puppies’ depth perception improves, playtime becomes more sophisticated and includes chasing, wrestling, growling and play fighting, all of which builds strength, agility and coordination. They also learn the language of dominance and submission using prey killing behavior like pouncing on or shaking an object and by normal play activity wherein they take turns chasing and pinning each other as they all practice being the top dog and the bottom dog. Inappropriate play can happen when the puppies get too wound up and one or more of the siblings turn into playground bullies! It is very important to supervise their playtime and step in when a “time out” is needed.
When you see puppies interacting with adult dogs, you will often see that the adult dogs will pretend to be subordinate to a puppy in order to build their confidence. The adults will even exhibit play-eliciting gestures like the “play bow” to encourage the puppies to play. When the adult dog resumes its role as leader, the puppy is given a lesson in respecting the pack’s hierarchy.
Play time is not only great fun but it teaches them important skills such as bite inhibition, canine communication and important lessons such as what is acceptable and what isn’t as they interact with each other and other animals. This is where puppies develop problem solving abilities and the physical and mental skills needed for a happy and successful life.
The Fear Periods
Since dogs can and do become fearful of specific things at any time during their life, we want to emphasize that we are taking about specific fear periods that dogs go through during their developmental stages.
First Fear Period (Weeks 8 to 10)
The first fear period is believed to be genetically tied to survival in the wild when puppies starting to explore their world. Under the guidance of their mother, they would learn what was threatening and what was not and any lack of caution could be life threatening. This fear and caution has carried over to domestic dogs.
Since puppies are sensitive to anything they perceive as threatening, anything that frightens a puppy at this stage can have a lasting impact on their lives. It is, therefore, particularly important that puppies are not overly-stimulated by too many challenges during this period.
Responsible breeders have learned that the longer the puppies are allowed interaction with their mother and littermates, the easier it is for them to adjust to changes they encounter. When you consider that the first fear period for most puppies occurs at 8 weeks of age, which is also traditionally the age most puppies are released to their new families, it makes sense that breeders are now keeping their puppies a week or two longer.
Some puppies may never show any differences during the first fear period while others may become fearful of sounds, people, things and/or situations they once accepted. These puppies may show their fear by being overly cautious or overly defensive.
The key to overcoming the puppy’s fear is through counter conditioning and positive reinforcement. As an example, if your puppy is walking by a chair just as a newspaper falls from the chair to the floor, the puppy will make the association that newspapers are scary things. If you place a treat on top of the newspaper and coax the puppy to get the treat, the scary newspaper now becomes something good.
Positive reinforcement rewards good behavior and ignores bad or unwanted behavior. It can be done through the use of food or praise and affection. The idea is to make every experience fun and/or positive for the puppy whether it is a trip to the vet, a ride in a car or a walk in the park where the puppy will encounter various new stimuli.
Second Fear Period (6 to 14 months)
The second fear period is believed to be tied to the dog’s sexual maturity and growth spurts. Owners will notice their dog has suddenly become a complete uncooperative mess! Fear may pop out of nowhere with the dog reacting defensively by barking, lunging and pulling on their leash.
Once again, making a comparison to dogs in the wild, the dogs from this age group were allowed to hunt with the mature dogs in the pack. Fear was a necessary component for survival purposes and staying with the pack was an absolute necessity.
Now that you have a much bigger dog to contend with, what do you do to keep him or her under control? The same thing that you would for the puppy: counter conditioning and positive reinforcement. Pretend it is not a big deal – ignoring the huge scene your dog just made can be hard but you must let your dog understand that whatever it is he’s afraid of is not a big deal. Never become critical, tense or punish your dog’s fearful reaction – stay calm and reassuring.
It is also crucial to avoid any traumatic experiences during this period. Continued socialization and building confidence through training, performance sports and exercises all keep your dog in good physical and mental condition.
Raindance Dobermans
We will now take a look at the last entry at Susan and Chelsea James’ Birthing Log. It has been an extreme pleasure working with them on this project. As I read through this last entry, tears started to form in my eyes. I felt the bittersweet emotion that Susan must have felt when she let each puppy go to their new home.
I’m sure we’ll all be hearing more about these puppies in the future as they enter the conformation ring or participate in performance sports. If any of you are interested in contacting Susan James of Raindance Dobermans, please email her at rainddobes@aol.com. Raindance also has a website at www.raindancedobes.com.
Genesis and Dante Birthing Log
8 to 10 weeks
All the puppies are doing great. We’re gaining weight nicely and their individual personalities are very obvious. They were all outgoing and very loving.
The crew first well visit to my Veterinarian at 7 weeks is a positive experience for them. They had a full exam and fecal test. They were all just so adorable and calm upon examination. All received a clean bill of health.
The Puppies ears were cropped at 8 weeks and all went well. I separated them each with their own pen for about a week.
Each had their own water bucket and fluffy bed. They were a bit sad to be separated, but adjusted fine.
At feeding time I did have them all together. Their ears were healing beautifully and their little Shriner hats did not bother them one bit.
At about 9.5 weeks the cups were off and I started posting their ears. They all got a beautiful long show crop.
I did put them back together again, rotating alone time in a crate for each and every one. I made sure when they were placed in a crate, they were very tired from playing and had a full belly. I also gave them a big marrow bone to chew on.
We had many visitors for play time with the puppies. It was such a joy to watch them interact with strangers. All confident, friendly and so happy.
At 8 weeks we brought the puppies for Kelly Marquis to see. Kelly is a co-breeder on this litter and she was very excited to see how they were turning out. It was their first long road trip and they were so fantastic. They were little troopers.
After the 8-9 week evaluation, I started making decisions about which puppy was going to which new owner.
It was a very bitter sweet time for me…They were getting older and did need their own Mommy and Daddy to give them all the extra attention on a one-on-one basis.
5 puppies were placed some to people that already had one of my babies or had been waiting for a Raindance Puppy for awhile. Two remained with me for a while longer.
I held onto Ariane and Sorin. I wanted to let them grow out a bit and secretly wanted to keep them.
I felt Ariane and Sorin had to go to fantastic show homes and if I could not find one, they would stay with me with Chelsea, my daughter and partner in Raindance, would show them to their Championship.
I was falling in love with these two little monsters but knew the right homes would come along and it finally happened. Sigh.
Empty Nest after 5 months of nurturing and love – my puppies certainly left a hole in my heart.
I love my babies and keep in touch with all the owners. They are all fantastic families which send me updates and photos on a regular basis.
I am so looking forward to seeing my babies in the ring so keep an eye out for my beautiful Raindance kids. This entire line bred litter is lovely and all deserve a title. Looking back on choosing the sire to compliment my Genesis, I feel I made the right choice and very proud of what this breeding gave me.
Sorin-8 weeks
Luna-8 weeks
Olaf-8 weeks
Airane-8 weeks
Scarlett-8 weeks
Kato-8 weeks
Lochlan-8 weeks
Here are their names:
Boys
Raindance In His Image—Sorin (yellow collar)
Raindance Fulfilling the Prophecy—Lochlan (blue collar)
Raindance Delivered From Evil—Kato (lime collar)
Raindance East Of Eden—Olaf (red collar)
Girls
Raindance Forbidden Fruit of Marquis—Airane (purple collar)
Raindance Fire & Brimstone—Scarlett (hot pink collar)
Raindance Light of Darkness—Luna (teal collar)
I hope you all enjoyed getting a glimpse of how I breed and raise a litter. For me it is one of the most rewarding parts of my life.
Susan and Chelsea James
Raindance Dobermans
Sorin-10 weeks
Luna-10 weeks
Airane-10 weeks
Lochlan-10 weeks
Sorin-12 weeks
Ariane-12 weeks
A Judges Perspective
(Learning is a process, not an event. An effective teaching experience combines the written and the interactive, refined by live observation.
As chairman of the DPCA Judges Education Committee I have a responsibility to inform the fancy of, in lay terms, how a judge interprets the Standard to select a winning Dobe.
I think it is important each fancier take the time to read the official Standard for the Doberman Pinscher. The Standard is available on the AKC and DPCA web sites.)
The judge’s first impression is the overall dog. Our Doberman handlers are some of the best in the world. They can make almost any dog look perfect in a stack, even to an experienced judge. The judge has only two and a half minutes to look at each dog so the well-presented dog has the advantage. Look for a square dog of medium size that is balanced. Does he have as much leg as depth of body? Is he deep to the elbows? Do his front angles match his rear angles? Is the length of the neck in proportion to the body and the head? Does his head look long but is it in proportion to the rest of the dog? Does he have heavy bone? Determine if the dog is powerful, elegant, alert, determined, muscular, and noble and is he compactly built. Many dogs have longer underlines than toplines. This can be caused by a straight upper arm which may cause a dog to look longer in length (more rectangular) than he actually is.
Having finished the initial observation, move the dogs in a group. Is anyone limping? Search for a fluid, powerful efficient gait that is balanced. Balance is very important and means that the gait generated by the rear drive is compatible with an equally angulated front to produce enough reach so the rear foot lands in the same spot as the front foot of the opposite side. Is the topline straight and smooth and does it hold while gaiting. Does the dog appear square or is it long in back or short in leg? Does it lack body? Check the tail carriage, it should be only slightly above the horizontal. Is the gaiting carriage proud?
Next is the individual examination where condition, attitude and show training come into play. Now is the time to reconfirm your initial side view impression with the overall dog. Approach the front; look at the head, breadth and depth of chest, and size and color of markings. Are the legs muscular and sinewy with heavy bone? Are the feet cat like? Place the head between your hands and look at expression. Is he stable, alert and confident? Feel the underjaw. Is the line from the skull to the muzzle unbroken and is it wedge shaped? Note the eyes for correct placement, shape, color and size. Are the ears set high? Is the skull too wide or too narrow, or just right? Looking from the side, view parallel planes and check for a slight stop, and depth of muzzle. Is the muzzle strong? Common deviations are snippy, pointy muzzles lacking underjaw, narrow heads that are not wedge shaped and round and/or light eyes.
The hands on examination is next. Check for muscle tone, placement and width of shoulders, snugness of elbows to body, and coat texture. Then, look at the rear, checking turn of stifle, equal length of upper and lower thigh, slightly rounded muscular croup, perpendicular hocks, and tailset. Look for a muscular rear, both on the inside and the outside of the legs, with parallel hocks set wide enough, where the front feet are seen just inside the rear feet. Is the rear cow hocked or bowed? Is the width of the hips equal to the width of the rib cage and shoulders? Is the dog slab sided (lack of rib spring) or barrel ribbed (too wide)? Are pasterns firm and almost perpendicular to the ground? Common deviations would be: shoulders that are set too far forward, straight shoulders, short upper arms, straight upper arms, lack of angulation – front or rear, long lower thigh, flat croup, high tail set, long loin, and lack of muscle in the upper thigh either on the inside or outside, as well as lack of muscle on the lower thigh.
The handler shows the mouth, or, if necessary, the judge opens the mouth. Count the teeth in groups, noting 42 correctly placed, strongly developed, white, teeth. The first group is the six incisors, the next group is the four canines (2 on each side, 1 upper, 1 lower) followed by the four premolars on the bottom and top of each side and the final group is the two top molars and three molars on the bottom of each side. Four or more missing teeth are a disqualification. The bite is checked. It should be a true scissors bite. Check to see if the bite is level, over or undershot. Overshot more than 3/16 inch and undershot more than 1/8 inch are disqualifications. Deviations are level bites, extra premolars, missing incisors, premolars and/or back molars, and poor occlusion.
Ask the handler to move the dog down and back on a loose lead, at a moderate pace. Watch the dog going around assessing side movement. Coming and going check for legs moving in a straight line. In the sound mover, the front legs are an extension of the shoulder and gradually converge towards the center as speed increases. Common deviations are moving too wide in front, too close in rear, side-winding, paddling, high stepping, loose elbows, flipping pasterns, and other inefficient gaits that prevent the dog from tireless, ground covering movement. Many times dogs do not move as well as they could because they are not in condition or are poorly trained. It is also difficult to evaluate a dog that is looking up at his handler or sniffing the ground. The well-conditioned and trained dog moves in a straight line down and back, with drive and determination. Many handlers cause their dogs to move inefficiently by using a tight lead. The dog on a loose lead moves best.
At the end of the down and back ask the handler to show the dog in a free stacked. Here is where the temperament and attitude meet with the judge’s toughest evaluation. In the free stack look for a dog who stands his ground confidently. As the judge moves around him he may flick an ear or turn his head to see who is there, but he remains calm and composed. The dog should be aware of the judge moving around him and not just fixed on the liver. At this point, you can see where he naturally puts his feet. The true topline, tailset, head and neck carriage are apparent. Put a lot of stock in dogs that exude energy, are alert and show fearlessness.
Upon completion of individual examinations, the final group is determined. If the class is eight or more, place the dogs in their tentative order. Then you move the class once or twice around and watch them stop. At this point, you can do another down and back with the top contenders, watching carefully how they stop. Then place the class. Many times exhibitors ask why the last down and back didn’t result in a change of placement. The reason is, in the final analysis, he moves well enough to confirm his win.
This is what a judge does in two and a half minutes in front of a partisan audience. No one ever said it was easy. Common sense indicates all judges have a specialty breed. All knowledge of other breeds is acquired knowledge, sometimes in the face of angry exhibitors.
What does this say about exhibiting purebred dogs? There is no perfect dog. The one picked at a particular show is the dog closest to the standard the judge has pictured in his mind of the ideal Doberman. A judge can only judge what is presented to him. The exhibitor must be patient. If he has a good dog, his time will come.
Evolution of the Standard: Temperament
General Appearance | Head | Neck, Topline and Body and Tail | Forequarters | Hindquarters | Forequarters and Hindquarters together | Gait | Temperament
1999–A
This standard doesn’t have a section devoted to temperament but they do cover this in the General Appearance section.
A well built and muscular dog, not plump and massive and not like a greyhound. His appearance must denotes quickness, strength and endurance. Temperament lively and ardent. He is courageous and will not run away from anything. Devoted to master and in defending him shows the courage of a lion. He gets along with other dogs; not vicious or disloyal; faithful and watchful and a superior destroyer of animals of prey.
1901–B
Characteristics: Watchful, loyal and devoted, intelligent and not vicious, however, nevertheless sharp; working equally well on water and on land; superior destroyer of animals of prey.
In this standard temperament is also addressed in the general appearance section which says: Temperament lively and ardent. He is courageous and will not run away from anything. Devoted to master and in defending him shows the courage of a lion. He gets along with other dogs; not vicious or disloyal; faithful and watchful and a superior destroyer of animals of prey. His eyes show intelligence and resolution.
1901–C
Characteristics: Ideal police dog. Watchful, loyal, devoted, intelligent; working equally well on water and on land; superior destroyer of animals of prey. good companion on the hunt. Good protector of his master; gets along with other dogs, however, when attacked, show no fear.
Temperament is also mentioned in the General Appearance section which says: His temperament is lively and ardent. His eyes show intelligence and resolution.
1920
Qualities: Pleasant in manner and character. Faithful, fearless, attentive and a reliable watch dog. Sure defender of his master, distrustful towards strangers, possessing conspicuous power of comprehension and great capability of training. In consequence of his characteristics, physical beauty and attractive size, an ideal house dog escort.
Temperament is also mentioned in the General Appearance section which says: Temperament lively and ardent, the eye expressing intelligence and resolution.
1925
Qualities: The Doberman pinscher is a loyal, fearless, courageous and extremely watchful dog who possesses very much a natural sharpness and high intelligence. Despite his fiery temperament he is very obedient and easily trained. He has a most excellent sense of smell, is of great endurance and the ideal of a house dog, companion and protector.
Faults: a shy, cowardly and nervous character.
Temperament characteristics are talked about in the General Appearance section in this standard too: Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage and great nobility, manifesting by its bearing a wide-awake vivacious personality. Temperament energetic, watchful, determined and alert; loyal and obedient, fearless and aggressive.
1935
Conformation and General Appearance: Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage and great nobility, manifesting by its bearing a wide-awake vivacious personality. Temperament energetic, watchful, determined and alert; loyal and obedient, fearless and aggressive.
Faults: failure to manifest any of the temperament characteristics.
SCALE OF POINTS
temperament, expression and nobility……………………8
1942
Conformation and General Appearance: Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament. Energetic, watchful, determined, and alert, fearless, loyal and obedient.
Faults: Lack of nobility and temperament. Shyness. Viciousness
1948
Conformation and General Appearance: Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament. Energetic, watchful,determined, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient.
Disqualifying Faults: Shyness, viciousness.
Shyness: A dog shall be judge fundamentally shy if, refusing to stand for examination, it shrinks away from the judge; if it fears an approach from the rear; it shy from sudden and unusual noises to a marked degree. Viciousness: A dog that attacks or attempts to attack, the judge or its handler is definitely vicious. An aggressive or belligerent attitude towards other dogs shall not be deemed viciousness.
SCALE OF POINTS
temperament, expression and nobility……………………8
1969
Conformation and General Appearance: Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament. Energetic, watchful, determined, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient.
The judge shall dismiss from the ring any shy or vicious Doberman.
Shyness: A dog shall be judged fundamentally shy if, refusing to stand for examination, it shrinks away from the judge; if it fears an approach from the rear; if it shies at sudden and unusual noises to a marked degree.
Viciousness: A dog that attacks or attempts to attack either the judge or its handler, is definitely vicious. An aggressive or belligerent attitude towards other dogs shall not be deemed viciousness.
1982/1990
Adopted by the DPCA and approved by the AKC on
Source: American Kennel club. (Note: The only change in 1982 to the standard approved in 1969 was the addition of a disqualifying fault for dogs “Not of an allowed color.” The standard was reformatted only and no descriptions were changed in 1990.)
Temperament: energetic, watchful, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient. The judge shall dismiss from the ring any shy or vicious Doberman.
Shyness: A dog shall be judged fundamentally shy if, refusing to stand for examination, it shrinks away from the judge; if it fears an approach from the rear; if it shies at sudden and unusual noises to a marked degree.
Viciousness: A dog that attacks or attempts to attack either the judge or its handler, is definitely vicious. An aggressive or belligerent attitude towards other dogs shall not be deemed viciousness.
In this standard too the temperament characteristics are talked about in the General Appearance section which says: Elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament. Energetic, watchful,determined, alert, fearless, loyal and obedient.
FAULTS: The foregoing description is that of the ideal Doberman Pinscher. any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation.
This is what our history of the standards say about the Doberman Pinscher temperament and character. Most all of the standards mention these important traits in two places. Our present standard mentions temperament in two places. To me by doing this, it tells us that the temperament of our breed is paramount.
Let’s talk about the temperament and the characteristics of the Doberman Pinscher. Our forefathers sure had a great dog in mind, didn’t they? I can see that from the very beginning, can you?
Marj
Killed By Kindness
Reproduced by permission from “Dogs in Review”, authored by Bo BengtsonJanuary 2012 issue of “Dogs in Review”
You have no doubt heard about the stud dog who was so valuable that he was not allowed to breed bitches except through artificial insemination. It turned out later that he was not capable of breeding on his own at all, and neither were most of his sons. There was also a famous bitch who was not allowed to whelp naturally, because who knows what damage that could have done, so she gave birth to her first litter by C-section — then to three more, also via C-section. And, big surprise, some of her daughters proved unable to whelp naturally. And there was the Best in Show winner who was so precious her owners did an embryo transfer, so their beautiful bitch would be spared the travails of pregnancy — which, of course, means nobody knows what kind of mother she would have been.
When you mess with Mother Nature, as we dog breeders have been doing with varying degrees of success for 150 years now, eventually there’s a price to pay. I seem to hear more often than I used to about dogs who are not able to breed naturally, bitches who have difficult whelpings and don’t know the basics of motherhood. With the advances of veterinary care, somehow there are usually live puppies anyway in the end… but at what price for the future of the species?
It was refreshing to read that one (but only one) of the seven finalists interviewed for AKC’s “Breeder of the Year” award mentioned a strong reproductive drive and good maternal instincts among the prime considerations when selecting breeding stock. How common are those priorities among show people these days, though? I overheard a couple of successful breeders at a show extolling the wonders of C-sections recently: just let the veterinarian take care of it! Much more practical than a messy natural whelping… but it’s not exactly how things were meant to be, is it?
We’re all a little guilty, I guess: we love our dogs, want to make things easy for them, are eager to make sure that even the weakest puppy of the litter survives. Who knows, after endless efforts that puppy may actually make it, grow up to become a beautiful champion — and continue to reproduce the species, with or without any immediate damage done to its breed.
No, I’m not advocating a return to the days of rough natural selection when a breeder basically peeked into the kennel and thought, “Hmm… Looks like Lizzie had her pups. We’ll see in a couple of weeks what she got!” I certainly don’t have the stomach to just “bucket” a weak puppy. But I am wondering if in the long run we’re doing ourselves and our dogs a disservice by not focusing more on their ability to reproduce naturally, with a minimum of human interference. There are no Best in Show awards for this, but perhaps there ought to be.
Oh, for the record: those dogs I mentioned at the beginning of this column are purely apocryphal: they don’t exist. Their counterparts do, though, and I bet you know at least some of them…
Albinism Science
The Science of Albinism
The term “albinism” encompasses a wide range of traits, all of which result from problems with pigment production or distribution. So far, more than 60 different mutations have been isolated from many different species. Many of these mutations and their subsequent effects have been found to be identical in both humans and non-humans. Since the basic mechanisms for pigment production are nearly identical across all mammals, most data gathered from one species can easily be applied to other species.
Pigment-melanin- is produced through a series of chemical reactions which are made possible by the action of various enzymes in the body. The same general process occurs in all mammals, both human and non-human. For all mammals the most important enzyme in the production of melanin is tyrosinase. The enzyme tyrosinase encoded by the gene Tyr is usually referred to in veterinary medicine as C.
The “classic” type of albinism is known as OCA1, Oculocutaneous Albinism, type 1. OCA1 involves a mutation in the gene which produces tyrosinase . Albinism always effects vision. Dobermans of the four accepted colors do not have these vision problems. The vision problems in albinism result from abnormal development of the retina (due to lack of normal levels of pigment during development) and abnormal patterns of nerve connections between the eye and the brain. The optic nerves are misrouted to the brain. The CERF examination, commonly used to detect congenital ocular defects in dogs will not detect several of the visual problems associated with albinism. CERF does detect cataracts, progressive retinal atrophy, or persistent pupillary membranes, it does not detect near-sightedness, far –sightedness, astigmatism,loss of depth-perception and the optic nerve abnormalities common to albinos. Since pupillary dilation makes all dogs photosensitive, this means that CERF examinations will not detect photosensitivity either. Obviously, visual deficits would be a serious handicap for a working breed dog. Also, the poor vision suffered by albinos may be a partial explanation for the aggressive and /or fearful behaviors often reported in albino Dobermans. There have been multiple reports of photosensitive/photophobia from owners of albinistic Dobermans, as well as repots of extreme nearsightedness (such as an inability to recognize family members from across a room and inability to chase a ball) and severe lack of depth perception (such as difficulty climbing stairs or with problems falling off of a porch ). Photophobia in these dogs was also confirmed by ophthalmogic exam.
More than 50 Tyr mutations have been identified in humans. They are in general divided into two subtypes, Type 1A having no tyrosinase activity whatever, and no melanin pigmentation, while type 1B(OCA1B) has greatly reduced tyrosinase activity, but with some melanization. Classical albinos or “complete” albinos are tyrosinase negative and “partial” albinos are tyrosinase positive. Partial albinos ARE still albinos.
The albinistic syndrome may accompany a wide range of health problems. Some types of albinism affect the immune system, liver, or clotting ability ( eg Hermansky Pudlak Syndrome- abnormal platelets that lead to mild bleeding), and others may cause other physiological abnormalities such as defects in the kidneys or thymus, inner ear defects and neurological abnormalities just to name a few. Albinism in general predisposes animals to skin cancer as well as photosensitivity/photophobia. Albinisim is a deleterious mutation which effects the whole body.
CONCLUSIONS:
All current evidence supports the conclusion that “white” Dobermans are indeed suffering from some type of albinism. Like other “tyrosinase-positive or “partial “ albinos, they have unpigmented skin and eyes. Like other albinos, the trait is inherited as a simple recessive trait. Like several other types of alblinism, they appear to have abnormal melanosomes. In fact, nationally recognized geneticists agree that these dogs are albino. Several experts in genetics, alblinism, pathology, and opthamology have agreed these dogs appear to be albinos, including G.A. Padgett, D.F. Patterson,
M.F.C. Ladd, W.S. Oetting, J.P. Scott, and David Prieur. Not a single expert in any of these fields has reached any other conclusion.
SCIENTIFIC CITATIONS:
For example, Dr. Oetting has stated “It sounds as if the dogs do indeed have albinism…These dogs sound like they have OCA1 resulting from mutations of the tyrosinase gene, a major gene in pigment formation”.
G.A. Padgett, DVM, Professor of Pathology, has stated “I would agree with Dr Patterson’s suggestions (1982) that this is probably a mutation in the C series. I believe it is an albino, although not the classical pink-eyed tyrosine negative animal which we associate with this term. They are phototypic, and I believe there is little disagreement with this statement”. After examination of hairs , Dr Padgett says “ The white Doberman is not a normal white.”. Dr. Padgett also lists albino Dobermans as partial albinos in his book Control of Canine Genetic Diseases.
David J Prieur,DVM, PhD. Of the WSU Dept. of Veterinary Microbiology and Pathology, has stated “Several years ago I expressed my concern regarding the breeding of “white” Doberman Pinscher dogs. I expressed the opinion that the gene for the white coat was a deleterious gene and that the Doberman Pinscher breed would be better served by not incorporating this gene into the gene pool of the breed. Although these ‘white’ Dobermans have been shown not to be true albinos, they are tyrosine- positive albinoids with a severe reduction of melanin in oculocutaneous structures. There have been numerous defects described in animals of other species with genes of this type…I am unaware of any information, published or presented, since I originally expressed my concerns, which would lead me to believe that this gene is not deleterious.”
Dr. M.F.C. Ladd, a British veterinary geneticist, has stated “Albinism means the complete absence of melanin pigment (Searle,1981) . If one accepts this view, then dogs such as the white Dobermanns with blue eyes , can be termed albinos….Unless much more evidence is forth coming, I feel that the white Dobermann should be looked upon as abnormality, known to exist and hoped to be avoided.
J.P. Scott, PhD., a geneticist at Bowling Green State University, has stated; “Photophobia would constitute somewhat of a handicap to a working dog”, and “Something must be done” . I realize that most breeders are responsible, selecting strains that seem good. But once an undesirable trait enters a breed, it is not an easy thing to eliminate.
RECOMMENDATION:
The Albino Dobermans are not acceptable for they possess a deleterious gene that causes ocular changes as well as affecting the immune system, and possessing neurological disorders. Albinism predisposes the animal to skin cancer as well as photosensitivity/photophobia. The mission of the parent club is to protect the integrity, health and function of the breed and not to promote the breeding of unacceptable specimens.
The AKC should honor this and help protect the breed by limiting the albino and factored dogs with a mandatory limited registration.
HISTORICAL FACTS:
On November 10, two back and rust parents produced 11 black and rust puppies and one female mutant albino with translucent blue eyes, pink nose, eye rims and pads. Padula’s Queen Sheba. All albinos are descendents from this dog.
Registration was sent into AKC with albino written in the color section.The Blue slip was returned explaining that albino is not a color. Photgr
aphs were requested and the registration review committee said the female was white. The first albino was registered without parent club consultation. Approximately 6500 descendants have been registered over the past 24 years, roughly 5000 or so are carriers of the albinistic trait.
DPCA asked the AKC to investigate the albino. AKC determined they are purebred.
AKC approved DPCA amendment to our standard: Disqualifying fault: Dogs not an allowed color.
DPCA bought two albino bitches for breeding studies. These dogs and their Offspring showed: Photosensitivity, hyperactive fear biters, and prone to solar skin damage.
AKC agreed to provide specialized tracking for albino and albino-factored Dobermans through special registration numbers thus creating the “z” list.
All descendants of Shebah’s parents born since 1996 have carried registration numbers starting with “wz”.
The American Kennel Club
260 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010-1609
Mr. David C. Merriam
Chairman of The Board
Mr. James P. Crowley
Executive Secretary
Dear Sirs,
As the representative of the Doberman Pinscher Club of America I am writing you to let you know our concerns and desires for the handling of the white albino Doberman situation. The mission of the DPCA is to protect the integrity, purity , health and function of the breed.
First of all we appreciate the effort of the AKC in setting up a tracking system for the albino dogs as well as the carriers of the albinoid gene. Unfortunately this is only half the battle in the survival of the integrity of our breed. The only way we can cleanse the breed from this deleterious mutation gene is to not allow these animals to be bred. By implementing both the tracking system and a restricted registration, only then, can the breed maintain its purity. The elimination of this gene with its associated detrimental health problems would help maintain the integrity of our breed.
We would be happy to meet with you or the Board for further discussions at the AKC to answer any questions you might have. Thank you for your consideration.
Sincerely yours,
May S Jacobson, Ph.D.
Associate in Medicine
Children’s Hospital Boston
Harvard Medical School
Holly Schorr
Holly Schorr has been involved with owning, showing (Obedience and Conformation), breeding and training Doberman Pinschers for almost 38 years. Together with husband, Steve, under the Kennel name of PennyLane Dobermans, they have shown and bred over 50 Champions, multi Best In Show and Best In Specialty Show winners in two countries with many obedience and tracking titles also. Holly teaches Obedience and Conformation for all breeds.
Designer Genes: Genetic Management or Misery
In the early 1970s, Miniature Schnauzer breeders embarked on a program unprecedented and unduplicated in any popular breed: to eliminate the genetic defect that caused juvenile cataracts. Research had established that juvenile cataracts (CJC) were transmitted as autosomal recessive with complete penetrance and were present at birth. Early diagnosis permitted the use of test-breeding, sanctioned by the national breed clubs, in which certified affected dogs were paired with mates whose status was unknown. A litter of normal eyed puppies was known to generate a mathematical probability that the tested dog was clear (the more normals, the better his or her odds), while the diagnosis of a single affected puppy proved the dog a carrier.
There is no argument that the program met its goals. A breed with an estimated 40% carrier rate emerged from two decades of test breeding with show lines cleared of the defect. It was a spectacularly successful example of how a breeding community can come together to eradicate a defect… and cause devastating damage to the gene pool.
Enter Stage Left
It has been written that, as a result of the process to eliminate CJC, over 200 American Champions were retired from breeding. Important kennels quietly closed up shop, taking distinct family branches with them, and bitches were sent exclusively to test-bred stud dogs. It was a lonely time for an untested male.
Around the same time as CJC was defeated, PRA made its entrance. In a few short years, several leading sires were revealed to be carriers and retired. There was no test-breeding program for this late onset defect, so it became a lonely time for the stud dog or bitch with a carrier ancestor. The gene pool contracted again.
Had this been the end of the troubles, there may have been time to pause and reflect on what was happening in the big picture, but this was not to be. A novel defect appeared on the scene – a muscular disorder called myotonia congenita. This problem found a solution in short order as a DNA test was developed, allowing breeders to identify carriers with a simple blood test. Those were retired, too. My choice of the word “retired” has, of course, been deliberately inappropriate here. In the world of dogs, “retired” is usually a euphemism for “sterilized”. As a device for preventing genetic defects, it must rate as one of the most destructive practices ever employed.
In a sensible dog world, quality carriers of genetic disease might be pulled from widespread use, but they’d come out of “retirement” for special occasions (i.e., for research breedings and/or the general advancement and preservation of rarer family lines). However, the dog fancy – and, by extension, breed clubs – have never been famous for our ability to apply knowledge sensibly. There is a common caution against throwing the baby out with the bathwater. In purebred dogs, there is a tendency to gather up the siblings, cousins and parents and throw them into the dustbin as well. We “improve” our breeds by killing them off one family branch at a time.
When I first began breeding nearly 30 years ago, I accepted the conventional wisdom that largely prevails to this day – that genetic defects are the exception, that carriers should be removed from the gene pool and that health is more important than beauty. But, as John Maynard Keynes said: “When somebody persuades me that I am wrong, I change my mind. What do you do?”
Managing the Unmanageable
A few years ago, some bright bulb at the Canadian Kennel Club launched a grand scheme to create a Code of Ethics. One of the rules proposed for this set of stone tablets was “Thou shalt not breed a carrier”. I recall writing to one of the Board members at the time to congratulate the CKC for devising an edict that would result in the immediate eradication of a number of breeds. For there are breeds today in which every single member is not merely a carrier, all or nearly all are affected with a genetic defect. The peculiar nature of Dalmatian urine chemistry is the most famous example.
Even in breeds with more moderate disease rates, the policy would have eventually resulted in genetic collapse and extinction. That’s because every normal living being is thought to carry in the range of 5 disease mutations in their DNA. In breeds with few founders and extreme bottleneck events, that average may be much higher. As molecular genetics digs into the DNA of our four footed friends, it is revealing gene frequencies that are nothing short of staggering in some breeds. In English Springer Spaniels, for example, a mutation that elevates the risk of PRA has been identified and a DNA test developed at the University of Missouri-Columbia. Of the dogs tested, only 20% have been found to be clear of the gene while over 40% tested as affected. Dobermans have similar carrier rates for the bleeding disorder, vWD.
Time for a Change?
The purpose of this article is not to cover the ground of nuts and bolts genetics. There’s simply not enough space and I don’t have the right letters after my name. There are many good texts available that cover the science, as well as a number of authoritative Internet sources. It is recommended that you seek the most recent material you can find as many of the popular canine genetics books of the past are now obsolete.
What I hope to provoke is an examination of some of our traditionally held beliefs. “Thou shalt not breed a carrier” served us well enough when diagnostics were primitive, most carriers escaped detection, and conditions now known to be inherited were dismissed as environmental or simple bad luck. This is no longer the case.
Unfortunately, a little knowledge can be dangerous. The discovery of extreme carrier rates in a breed has the potential to overwhelm breeders who have always held that their primary goal was to produce healthy dogs. It’s depressing to think of how many aspiring breeders accepted as an article of faith that quality foundation stock, good intentions and careful testing would result in good health – only to fail. They’d start over, fail again, become discouraged and move out of the sport. Now we know why.
The bottom line is that much of what we thought was wrong. Now, for the sake of our breeds, we need to change our minds. It is no longer a question of “eliminating” gene defects from a breed. We can only ask which ones, how quickly and should we even try? For this reason, it is imperative that breed clubs take the lead and reform outdated notions about “ethical” breeding practices and the advisability of “retiring” animals before they can leave positive contributions to the gene pool.
Diversity is Key
One of the most important factors in maintaining a healthy breed population is preserving genetic diversity. Genetic diversity is important for survival and adaptability within species, but dog breeds are not species. They are purpose-bred populations that have undergone selection for specific traits or behaviours. It is not enough to simply survive; they have a job to do. Nonetheless, within closed gene pools, genetic diversity is central to infectious disease resistance and the availability of normal alleles when mutations arise.
There is little disagreement on that point, but there can be great disagreement on the best means to achieve it. One camp believes in outcrossing, de-emphasis of “show ring” traits and performance standards, and even selected infusions of other breeds. Another camp holds that a healthy diversity of successful breeders who work to preserve and develop distinct family lines is the best way to preserve genetic choice. I happen to belong to the latter.
Before one begins, however, one must first define “successful”. Or rather, one must understand how success is defined in any breed. It is not a matter of interpretation; it is a matter of record.
A few years after I began showing and breeding Miniature Schnauzers, I realized that no historical archives existed for champion producers in Canada, in
the way they have always been catalogued in the US. So, I began gathering the data from old CKC stud books and issues of Dogs In Canada, starting with the first recorded champion in 1933.
Somewhere in the middle of the project, I had an epiphany. Everything that I had been told to believe was wrong: Health is not more important than beauty. Beauty is more important than health.
Next Issue: It isn’t important that we all do the right thing, it is only important that we don’t all do the wrong thing. Forcing everyone to do the same thing risks forcing everyone to do the wrong thing.
Designer Genes Beauty vs. Health, part2
Somewhere in the middle of the project, I had an epiphany. Everything that I had been told to believe was wrong. Health was not more important than beauty…beauty was more important than health.
As I recorded the names of champion offspring of those dogs of the past, I began to notice patterns. Kennels would emerge, win well for a time, and then fade away upon the arrival of new competition with better winning stock. The majority of sires and dams that had produced multiple champions in their day were virtually absent in modern show pedigrees. Their lines had, for all intents and purposes, become extinct.
As it turned out, the most reliable asset a line could possess wasn’t the ability to produce large litters without assistance, live to a ripe old age, or pass a series of health clearances. It was that someone had to want to breed them, and then actually breed to them.
The Human Factor
Breeding dogs for the competitive arena is labour intensive and expensive. With little chance of profit, the motivations are largely esoteric – goal attainment, pride in performance, thrill of competition, appreciation of beauty and form. Bloodlines that fulfill these ambitions tend to grow and expand their share of the gene pool, while those that don’t, wither away or are relegated to producing puppies for the pet market. It’s not to say that winning is the only thing that matters, but it’s fair to say that nothing else matters as much. For, while gene defects may slow the expansion of a winning family into other lines or force it in a new direction, ugly is fatal.
Each time we are confronted with genetic disease, whether it be in the role of individual breeder, mentor or breed club, it is this “human factor” that must always remain front and center.
Programs designed to reduce defects in a breed or a family, while absolutely necessary for long-term health and control of gene frequencies, must never be permitted to subordinate the quality of animals, or the ability of individual breeders to achieve their aims. Without quality, the line will not survive future selection pressures. Without quality, breeders will find themselves hard pressed to continue.
It is not good enough to promise a light at the end of the tunnel. Those lights must remain on along the route so that individuals are reminded that there is more to breeding dogs than avoiding the bad.
That of course, doesn’t grant us license to ignore our problems, or worse yet, to conceal information. Without open and frank disclosures, the very risk reduction strategies that allow breeders to manage disease frequency are impossible.
The first priority for breed clubs is to update our old strategies and accept that genetic disease is a normal part of the makeup of good dogs. While normalizing defects may seem heresy to some, it is only through accepting there is no such thing as a “clear” dog that modern breeding programs will survive the wave of information that is beginning to come ashore. As previously mentioned, new DNA tests are uncovering gene frequencies in some breeds that have the potential to result in the total collapse of gene pools, if efforts at reduction are not carried out with extreme caution. It’s imperative that breed clubs get out ahead of this, and begin the re-education process now.
Of course, talking about transformation is easy; putting it into practice at the kennel level, much harder.
Reality Bites
“I just got back from the clinic. I don’t know what to do.”
Anyone who has found themselves slumped in a chair with a CERF form in one hand and a drink in the other knows the feeling.
For a disturbingly large segment of the fancy, the only “ethical” response is to search for a sword to fling one’s breeding program upon – the more publicly, the better. Not because it’s the logical, rational thing to do, but so that they may hold themselves up as morally superior. Every breed club has influential members who hold these well-intentioned, but destructive views. It’s time to confront them with reason.
Defective genes have been part of the makeup of breeds for scores of generations. Most became widespread long before veterinary science had the ability to identify, diagnose and treat them, and those breeds managed to survive. Your breeding program can survive, too – but it’s up to you.
There is no need to cure Rome in a day. Nor is there any need to sacrifice the best animals in a breeding program to avoid criticism from the uninformed and just plain vindictive among your peers. Pleasing your enemies does not turn them into friends.
The first step, particularly for the novice breeder who is facing genetic disease for the first time, is to give yourself breathing room. Take no action until your emotions are under control. Go to the field trial, continue your coat work, enter the shows you had planned. Your kennel’s participation in the competitive arena should not change because you’ve had a bad diagnosis – indeed, this is when you most need to remind yourself of the rewards that come from your involvement in dogs. Certainly, some exhibitors may beak and complain. Ignore them.
Take a few weeks to research the defect and your pedigrees. Ask yourself a list of questions designed to determine to what extent the defect can be tolerated in your breeding program, if it must be tolerated, and what impact you will allow it to have on future breeding plans.
1. Does the defect cause significant for pain or reduction in lifespan of the dog? Do affected animals pose a risk to others (aggression behaviors, etc.)? Do effective treatments exist? If chronic, is it difficult or expensive to diagnose or treat?
Generally, the more serious the effect on the dog’s well-being and the owner’s pocketbook, the less likely you or others will want to risk producing others who might suffer from it.
2. Is the problem common in your breed or the family line? Is it rare? Does it represent something new?
There may be nothing to gain from retiring a dog because he carries a gene that’s prevalent in the gene pool. Removing him won’t reduce the gene frequency, controlled breeding won’t increase it. It may be the “cost of doing business” in that line or breed until improved screening protocols come along. Learning to live with it may be the only choice available.
Conversely, the dog that carries a novel defect has the potential to transform a rare mutation into a common one. Such a dog is capable of raising gene frequencies and introducing disease into lines that are currently clear from it, so must be handled with discretion if bred.
3. Can it be diagnosed in a puppy, or does it show up after the dog is placed in a home, or has embarked on a breeding career?
The earlier a defect can be diagnosed, the easier it is to manage in a breeding program. The pain isn’t visited on buyers and the issue remains a “breeder’s problem”.
4. Is the mode of inheritance known?
The more one knows about the mode of inheritance, the easier it is to balance pedigrees and work around, or even eliminate a problem. (If not, don’t draw conclusions as to the genetic status of the parents and offspring. Some modes of inheritance are quite complex, and expression intermittent.)
When those questions have been considered, they must be placed into context:
1.
What is the quality of the affected/carrier animal? Does it possess outstanding virtues or is it just average? What does the rest of the health and genetic profile look like? Is it likely to produce puppies that are worth the effort?
2. Is the affected animal from a prosperous family line, or is it rare?
This may require digging deep into your pedigrees, as few modern breeders or even breed clubs are as aware of the originating lines of their breed as they should be. > Rare and distinct family lines may carry valuable alleles important to the genetic diversity and future health of the breed and their extinction should be avoided at all costs. Line preservation trumps genetic disease concerns in all but the most extreme cases. These are the dogs for which the “baby and bathwater” analogy was created.
Decision Time
So, let us return to our breeder’s CERF form, now that the drink is finished.
In this simplified example, the dog has been diagnosed with cataracts. Cataracts are fairly frequent in the breed. While some research is underway, no DNA test exists. Not much is known about the inheritance, other than it appears to be familial. Cataracts can result in complications and surgery, but most affected dogs live fairly normal lives despite them.
Now, what about the dog and her pedigree?
As you may have deduced, there is no one answer that fits all.
A) The bitch is from a popular line. She’s of good quality, but not exceptional. She has a normal-eyed half sister who is two years older. The breeder decides to spay her – there’s more where she came from.
B) The bitch is fabulous, with an impressive show career. She’s from a popular line, but has never been bred. The breeder chooses a complimentary sire of a line with low incidence of cataracts, with the goal of producing a daughter he can carry on with.
C) The bitch is the last daughter of a rare branch of the breed. She is of good quality and general health. The breeder decides to line breed her to a CERF normal sire who is well up in years, that compliments her type and fortifies her unique pedigree.
All have made rational decisions. Breeding the average bitch from a popular line isn’t likely to advance anyone’s interests. Spaying an exceptional bitch without ensuring she has a chance to pass on her virtues is not in the long-term interests of any breed. (Mediocre dogs carry disease genes, too!)
The breeder who goes on with an affected bitch from a threatened line also has his priorities straight. When in doubt, advance the line. A carrier son or daughter might some day produce puppies that test clear, but quality descendants must exist, or there will be nothing to test.
None of these strategies suggest that a dog with a serious genetic defect should be offered at public stud, or his puppies sold to prolific kennels. But between popular sire and sterilization is a very large middle ground in which dogs that are not suitable for wide use can still make a positive contribution.
As breeders, we have been entrusted with something very precious – a bitch line. Every time one of us fails to produce dogs of sufficient quality to carry it forward, we fail that trust. When we become lazy and indifferent about promoting our good dogs to others, we fail again. The daughter of the daughter fails to produce a daughter that carries on, another branch of the breed dies and the gene pool narrows a tiny bit more.
Doing the “Right” Thing
When managing genetic disease, there is seldom a “one size fits all” solution. Breed clubs need to recognize that individuals have different priorities and challenges, and accommodate this when issuing recommendations.
Most of all, we must recognize the absolute importance of the “human factor” in preserving families and advancing breeds. Breeders are most motivated when they are breeding for something – towards the good, not away from the bad. We need to acknowledge the power of beauty to inspire us, and pledge never to ask a colleague to give up on a dog or a line that they love in the pursuit of a goal that is unattainable – the disease-free breed.
And we must forgive each other’s mistakes, for despite our best breeding intentions, there will be many.
It’s not important that we all do the right thing – it’s only important that we don’t all do the wrong thing. When we force all breeders to do the same thing, we risk forcing all breeders to do the wrong thing.
As for those two hundred champions that were retired from my breed to eliminate a single gene? I often wonder where we could have been today if only a handful of the best had been bred one or two times more.
History of the Doberman 1897-2005
compiled by V. Cherie Holmes
The Doberman Pinscher is a compilation of many breeds. The following is a list of breeds thought to be the predecessors of the modern Doberman. These animals contributed to the Doberman over a period of 35 years.
The old German Shepherd dog:
These shepherd dogs were crossed with Pinschers to produce a Thuringer type butcher dog that was common in the area. In the early part of the 1870’s, it was told, Herr Dobermann crossed the progeny of a blue-grey Pinscher type bitch and a black and tan butchers dog, with a German Pinscher. This may be the first indication of the breeds used in the development of our breed.
The Butcher Dog, who was the ancestor of the Rottweiller as well as the Doberman, shows very strongly in this dog,
Graf Belling von Gronland, shown below.
At one of the first shows, in 1899, there were 12 Dobermans including the winner, Graf Belling, in a ring. It was said that those 12 dogs were so similar to Rottweilers that you could not tell the difference between a bad Rottweiler or a good Doberman, apart from the cropped ears!
The Beauceron : Their link to Dobermans can be made in that the Beauceron was brought to Prussia in 1806 with Napoleon’s army. The Beauceron, shown below at the turn of the century, were known to have interbred with the local dogs.
The German Pinscher:
The legacy of the German Pinscher addition is very little. It may be deemed that this addition was not a goal, but a stepping stone, and not as harmful as a breed with a more distinct type than the Doberman, would have been. The dilution of German Pinscher blood has been complete many years ago as this was not the direction the originators of the breed were wanting to go. The head, size, and body shape were not in our blueprint, and so were eliminated over time with selection.
In 1939, Herr Gruenig, (in his book, The Doberman Pinscher, 1939), said,” The German Pinscher contributed little to the head type. The Rottweiler, or old Butcher’s dog, sporting dogs, all added traits like heavy jowls, and thick skulls in which earlier specimens bear testimony.
In 1902, a Gordon Setter was crossed in, with the purpose of improving the coat color. As the short coat proved dominate, no harm was immediately seen. The color of the coat was not improved, but generations later, the long coat would show up, when the genes inadvertently were doubled.
This is a picture of 2 early dogs, circa 1899. The size of these early dogs were around 25 inches for males. The first standard was written in 1899, upon the formation of the first Doberman Club. As soon as this blueprint was set down, the breed changed rapidly into the dog we know today.
At the turn of the century , the Manchester Terrier was added. As the German Pinscher, Manchester Terrier, Rottweiler, and Beauceron are very similar in look, these crosses did not change the appearance of the turn of the century Doberman, as much as it enhanced it. Phillip Grunig stated in 1939, of the dogs of that period, “Under these circumstances it would be difficult to distinguish a coarse Doberman from a refined Rottweiler. It would be equally difficult to distinguish a small and delicate Doberman from a coarse German Pinscher, etc.”
The Doberman of today owes his present form to the many crosses done in the early years. Below is a picture of Fedor V. Arpath, born in 1906. This dog is 1/4 Manchester Terrier.
The Manchester was added to get the smooth, short coat that we desired. The hair is also very thick, with many hairs per square inch.
| Alarich v. Thueringen , born 1897, is an excellent example of what the breed was like at the turn of the century. |  |
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Graf Wedigo V. Thuringen, born 1901 |
Greyhound:
A black Greyhound male from England was the sire of a bitch named Stella, a stud book entry in 1908.
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On the right is a picture of Stella’s daughter, Sybille, born in 1908. Sybille is 1/4 Greyhound. |
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Rival’s Adonis, best of his day, 1914 ,and a great stride forward You can see that with the concentration of breeders and their dogs, the shape is already in sight. |
| Ilisa v.d, Koningstad imported to Westphalia kennels in U.S. in 1925 |  |
Doberman Pinscher Club Of America was formed in 1921, when the fanciers attending the Westminster show decided to band together to promote their then relatively unknown breed. The official German standard was adopted by the DPCA on Feb. 13, 1922.
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1930’s |
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1940’s Dictator von Glenhugel, owned by Bob and Peggy Adamson 1941 |
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Rancho Dobes Storm twice BIS at Westminster, 1952 ,1953 |
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1960’s |
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1970’s Am. Ch. Marienburg’s Sunhawk CD 1973-1982, owner, Mary Rodgers. |
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1980’s Am. Ch. Electra’s The Windwalker, owner Judith Bingham |
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1990’s Am. Ch. Brunswig’s Cryptonite, owners Mr & Mrs Lawrence, Mr & Mrs Murray |
Breeders, remember, you have been given, by your predecessors, the torch and a blueprint to follow. As the breed is only a little over 100 years old, it could be set back seriously in only a few generations of short-sightedness.
Judges must recognize that although our breed has many breeds in it’s makeup, it must not look like any one of them. You must5 see those breeds only as threads in the fabric. The making of the Doberman Pinscher is not over, but we hope you have enjoyed the story of the first one hundred years.
Am Ch Darwin’s Dance Of The Hour, Owners: Marilyn Altheide, Darlene Young
Evolution of the Standard: Gait
General Appearance | Head | Neck, Topline and Body and Tail | Forequarters | Hindquarters | Forequarters and Hindquarters together | Gait | Temperament
1899–“A”
There is no verbiage about gait in this standard.
1901–“B”
Again, no verbiage.
Circa 1901–“C”
Again no verbiage.
1920
Gait: Running gear must be light and free. Note: this appears in the General Appearance section.
1925
Again, no verbiage about gait.
1935
Gait: Free, balanced, vigorous and true. Back firm, indicating the lasting qualities of a working dog.
Faults: Lack of drive, stiffness, looseness, excessive back motion. Paddling. Throwing front or hind legs.
Scale of Points:
Gait………………………………….6
1942
Gait: His gait should be free, balanced and vigorous. When moving swiftly, he should throw his hindlegs at least as far as his front legs.
Faults: lack of drive, stiffness, looseness, excessive back motion, throwing front or rear legs, or both, in or out. Not covering enough ground with rear legs.
1948
Gait: The gait should be free, balanced and vigorous with good reach in the forequarters and good driving power in the hindquarters. When trotting, there should be a strong rear drive, with rotary motion of hindquarters. Each rear leg should move in line with the foreleg on the same side. Rear and front legs should be thrown neither in or out. Back should remain strong, firm and level.
SCALE OF POINTS
Gait…………………………………………………6
Faults: The foregoing description is that of the ideal Doberman Pinscher. Any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation.
1969
Gait: Free, balanced and vigorous, with good reach in the forequarters and good driving power in the hindquarters. When trotting there is a strong
rear-action drive. Each rear leg moves in line with the foreleg on the same side. Rear or front legs should be thrown neither in or out. Back remains strong and firm. When moving at a fast trot, a properly built dog will single track.
Faults: The foregoing description is that of the ideal Doberman Pinscher. any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation. & nbsp; ; &nbs p; &nb sp;
DISQUALIFICATIONS Overshot more than 3/16 of an inch, undershot more than 1/8 of an inch. Four or more missing teeth.
Note: The verbiage of rotary motion that was in the 1948 standard was removed in this 1969 standard. I was interested in the reason why, so I looked it up in the DPCA minutes in an old magazine and found this:
In the November-December 1966 issue of Doberman News in a
report of the committee on the standard October 1965 to September 30, 1966.
This report was prepared by Eleanor Houston Carpenter, chairman and read by Dr. Shute. “Under 7I, Gait, the phrase “rotary motion of the hindquarters” is an incorrect description of the ideal gait as may be seen by reducing motion pictures of a moving Doberman to a slow speed. Hence this phrase should be eliminated.”
Here is a little more on the Gait section. “Under 7J the committee is not
all in agreement on the advisability of introducing into the standard the
observation that at a fast trot a properly built Doberman will
single–track. Granted that this is correct the question remains whether the
show ring gait is fast enough to show this trait and whether any but most
practiced judge would distinguish between the tendency to “come in on line” and the fault moving too close behind. Before marking the ballot please be sure that you are thoroughly informed on this question of gait.” Interesting heh? This is a very interesting report if any of you have this magazine.
I will try to find more discussion if there was any printed. I would like to
find out who else was on this committee. I cannot find it as of now and I
will have to stop for a bit. I am missing a November 1964 issue of Doberman News which could have the minutes of the General meeting in it. The December 1964 has the minutes of the Executive meeting in it but no mention of the other members of the Standard Committee, just the above report written by the Chair-person.
1982/1990
Note: Adopted by the DPCA and approved by the AKC on February 6, 1982. Reformatted November 6, 1990. The only change in 1982 to the standard approved in 1969 was the addition of a disqualifying fault for dogs “Not of an allowed color.” The standard was reformatted only and no descriptions were changed in 1990.
Gait: Free, balanced and vigorous, with good reach in the forequarters and good driving power in the hindquarters. When trotting, there is a strong rear-action drive. Each rear leg moves in line with the foreleg on the same side. Rear and front legs should be thrown neither in or out. Back remains strong and firm. when moving at a fast trot, a properly built dog will single track.
FAULTS The foregoing description is that of the ideal Doberman Pinscher. Any deviation from the above descri
bed dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation.
DISQUALIFICATIONS Overshot more than 3/16 of an inch, undershot more than 1/8 of an inch. Four or more missing teeth. Dogs not of an allowed color.